Classic & Vintage - How to remove Stronglight crank?

I have a Stronglight crank. I believe it's a model 99.

I need to get this crank off the BB so I can change out the BB spindle.

So I purchased a Stein 23.3 mm Stronglight crank puller from Bike Parts Etc (http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=517110827573&d=single&c=Tools&sc=Crank&tc=Extractors&item_id=SN-STEX). I assumed this was the correct puller.

However, when I went to screw in the new puller (after of course retracting the inner bolt), I get one revolution and the puller will not move any further by hand. I checked the threads on the crank. The outer threads look a little smushed, but I am easily able to hand-thread the dust caps...

Should I risk tightening it with a wrench -- risking the remaining good threads?

Or am I even using the correct size puller here?

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af346/gervasegallant/bike%20project/IMG_1116.jpg

Ithink those cranks came ina 23 and a 23.5 but better wait for the real experts

Yup, the Stronglight 99 in its later version used a standard crank puller. Sounds like that's what you have.

Neal

No the standard 22mm (for modern cranks) doesn't fit at all... too small. This is a crank from the early 1970s, I believe. Could it possibly need a TA puller (23mm)??

Like one side of this one http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=517110827573&d=single&c=Tools&sc=Crank&tc=Extractors&item_id=VR-393

First, you can compare the Stein tool to the dust cap. The threads should match, the size should also be pretty close. You may want to clean up the crank threads and use some grease.

No the standard 22mm (for modern cranks) doesn't fit at all... too small. This is a crank from the early 1970s, I believe. Could it possibly need a TA puller (23mm)??

Like one side of this one http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=517110827573&d=single&c=Tools&sc=Crank&tc=Extractors&item_id=VR-393

Hmm, there was just another thread about someone discovering his 49D crankset used a TA-sized puller:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/710550-1974-Stronglight-49D-Cranks-were-some-made-smaller-than-23.3

That's weird.

Neal

Hmm, there was just another thread about someone discovering his 49D crankset used a TA-sized puller:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/710550-1974-Stronglight-49D-Cranks-were-some-made-smaller-than-23.3

That's weird.

Neal

Thanks. Seems to describe the problem exactly. That's a co-incidence too; posted at nearly the same time.

Is the crankset in question the one pictured in the original post? That's a Stronglight 93, not a 99. It does take the 23.3 puller. You may have to use a wrench to thread it in--some are pullers are tighter than others. Grease the threads and go slowly and carefully, backing it out from time to time as if you're using a tap.
That should work. Unless, of course, there's something I don't understand here--that's always a possibility.

You may have to use a wrench to thread it in--some are pullers are tighter than others. Grease the threads and go slowly and carefully, backing it out from time to time as if you're using a tap.
That should work. Unless, of course, there's something I don't understand here--that's always a possibility.

+1

I've only gotten the Stein 23.35 puller in about one turn before having to put a wrench on both Stonglight 93s I've pulled with it. I would do as jonwvara explains using care and caution.

I think the came in a 23.15 and a 23.35, as well as 'normal'.

Just one more reason to avoid the French.

HA! So true..............

+1

I've only gotten the Stein 23.35 puller in about one turn before having to put a wrench on both Stonglight 93s I've pulled with it. I would do as jonwvara explains using care and caution.

I dunno, guys...it's always a crapshoot to try to offer advice without having the tool and crank in hand, but I recently used my trusted old Stronglight (not JA Stein's version of it) tool to pull off the SL93 cranks on another CVer's "mystery Jeunet" frame...did it just before Xmas in a McDonald's parking lot off the freeway. My puller threaded in by hand and I just snugged it up with the socket end of it for good measure: did NOT need a wrench to screw it in. Cranks came off clean and easy...well, reasonably easy. I would say that was pretty typical of every SL crank I've pulled with this tool, with the only exception being the oddball 49D which I persist in believing was a 23mm. Do as you think best...if you can get the Stein tool to screw on completely by using grease and coaxing, then that's better than assuming it uses a 23mm TA puller and stripping something.

I think the came in a 23.15 and a 23.35, as well as 'normal'.

Just one more reason to avoid the French.

^ I learned that for a Stronglight, 23.15 is the extractor thread and 23.35 the crank thread. (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/704573-The-ONE-time-I-DON-T-use-grease-it-cost-me-50.?p=12017599&viewfull=1#post12017599) (Thanks again Kurt!)

Makes sense to me that the extractor should not be on-size with the crank - or you'd never get it started.
(The French thought of everything - everyone else followed! )

^I read that, and it sounds so plausible and it sure would be a tidy explaination for the 2 sizes that are bandied about referring to Stronglight crank threading... So, I want to believe, but I need corroboration: can any machinist or tool-and-die guys out there confirm what the diameter difference between male and female metric threaded parts is? 0.2mm?

I dunno, guys...it's always a crapshoot to try to offer advice without having the tool and crank in hand, but I recently used my trusted old Stronglight (not JA Stein's version of it) tool to pull off the SL99 cranks on another CVer's "mystery Jeunet" frame...did it just before Xmas in a McDonald's parking lot off the freeway. My puller threaded in by hand and I just snugged it up with the socket end of it for good measure: did NOT need a wrench to screw it in. Cranks came off clean and easy...well, reasonably easy. I would say that was pretty typical of every SL crank I've pulled with this tool, with the only exception being the oddball 49D which I persist in believing was a 23mm. Do as you think best...if you can get the Stein tool to screw on completely by using grease and coaxing, then that's better than assuming it uses a 23mm TA puller and stripping something.

This other C&V'er was me. By the way, thanks a ton and I owe you lunch still.

I should mention that when you pulled off those cranks, they had only been on the bike for about six months. If the cranks on the OP's bike have never been off, they're going to require a heck of a lot more force than mine did. Don't you think? I can't offer any advice because I'm the guy that already stripped a Stronglight crank arm and I'd hate to have anyone else experience that.

This is tough.

-Collin-

Is the crankset in question the one pictured in the original post? That's a Stronglight 93, not a 99. It does take the 23.3 puller. You may have to use a wrench to thread it in--some are pullers are tighter than others. Grease the threads and go slowly and carefully, backing it out from time to time as if you're using a tap.
That should work. Unless, of course, there's something I don't understand here--that's always a possibility.


i have 2 sets of stronglight 93 cranks and neither look like the one pictured.

i'm 99% sure the pictured cranks are stronglight 99, as originally mentioned.

2 very different looking cranks.

SL 93 (which takes a 23.35mm puller)

http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=EB5805D8-327E-48B5-B822-2C61B1340D57&Enum=115&AbsPos=18

SL 99 (which takes a 23.35mm puller, unless it's the later model which takes a "standard" 22mm)

http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=3EDC1123-4B39-4FEC-BC33-02197CB84B54&Enum=115&AbsPos=20

Is the crankset in question the one pictured in the original post? That's a Stronglight 93, not a 99.

Sorry, Jon, but that one pictured is definitely a Stronglight 99 w/ 86bcd (as compared to 122bcd for the mod. 93).

Here's a Mod. 93:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_GmYBBzTzcVQ/SnShDm_PR3I/AAAAAAAAFsI/g5mgoAXBLoU/s800/SuperTourer8.jpg

And a Mod. 99:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_GmYBBzTzcVQ/SbGdESgkIII/AAAAAAAADWg/4m8qi_IQHqI/s800/PX10_650B6.jpg

Neal

..... If the cranks on the OP's bike have never been off, they're going to require a heck of a lot more force ....



Not necessarily.
When I have an alloy part wrapping around a steel part, and it seems unyielding, I tend to use my
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh117/auchencrow/Bike%20Forums/Propane.jpg

Yes, if you also look at this web site, you get to see most of the major Stronglight models http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/components/stronglight-timeline-comp.html

PS... still not sure what to do. Cleans and grease the threads and apply some force while crossing fingers... But you never do that with a modern puller. If it doesn't thread easily, something is cross-threaded.

Worked. The crank came off. Greased the threads and used a long wrench to screw it in. Still very tight No apparent damage to the crank or puller threads and the dust caps can still be screwed in.

Thanks for the help...

Told ya. I was a little nervous my first time too.

Sorry, Jon, but that one pictured is definitely a Stronglight 99


Dammit! This is eroding my aura of infallibility!
Okay, I stand corrected. In my innocence, I didn't even know that there was an "old" version of the 99--I just glanced at the picture, saw the fluted crankarm, and figured it was a 93. Oops. Looking at it again, it's obvious that the BCD is 86, not 122. My bad. Glad the crank did come off, though.

Dammit! This is eroding my aura of infallibility!
Okay, I stand corrected. In my innocence, I didn't even know that there was an "old" version of the 99--I just glanced at the picture, saw the fluted crankarm, and figured it was a 93. Oops. Looking at it again, it's obvious that the BCD is 86, not 122. My bad. Glad the crank did come off, though.

Ah, Jon, just blame it on the prescription medication. Or maybe it's the over-the-counter diet supplement?

Neal

Worked. The crank came off. Greased the threads and used a long wrench to screw it in. Still very tight No apparent damage to the crank or puller threads and the dust caps can still be screwed in.

Thanks for the help...

The first time my stien 23.35 went into a crank it was a tight fit, but now its not a problem.

The difference between 23.15 and 23.35 (or 0.2mm) is in the diameter that your measuring. If you measure the internal diameter of the threads (the crank), you'll get 23.15 mm. (The puller's minor diameter). When you measure the OD of the external threads (the puller), you'll get 23.35mm, or the major diameter of the puller.

So they are the "same" measurement, but the major diameter of one thread = minor diameter of the other, and vice-versa.

Check this the next time you have a BB open. A standard English BB (1.37" or 34.8mm) will measure ~34.6mm inside with your calipers.

And just FYI, there is a [listed as] 23.0mm Stronglight puller listed on eBay right now.

Yup, the Stronglight 99 in its later version used a standard crank puller. Sounds like that's what you have.

Neal
The OP's crank is the old version, using the 23.35mm puller.

The new version arms are cast rather than forged, have recesses cast into the spider, and are not finished as nicely.

I think the came in a 23.15 and a 23.35, as well as 'normal'.
The nominal diameter is 23.35mm; the puller diameter is 23.15mm.


Just one more reason to avoid the French.
IIRC, Stronglight invented the cotterless crank.

The OP's crank is the old version, using the 23.35mm puller.

Posts numbers 17 and 18 covered that. But, since we're posting photos of models 93 . . .

http://gallery.me.com/justinhughes/100201/IMG_3438/web.jpg?ver=12953984960001

OP has a model 99.


Yes, it was the prescription medicine I'm taking that made me think it was a 99. Sorry for the confusion.

And a Mod. 99:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_GmYBBzTzcVQ/SbGdESgkIII/AAAAAAAADWg/4m8qi_IQHqI/s800/PX10_650B6.jpg

Neal
That's actually the newer version of the mod. 99, which uses a "standard" 22mm puller.

Yes, it was the prescription medicine I'm taking that made me think it was a 99. Sorry for the confusion.

C&V meds? If your meds are as old as your bikes they may not be good. ;).

I'm feeling the need to add to my tools.

Posts numbers 17 and 18 covered that. But, since we're posting photos of models 93 . . .

http://gallery.me.com/justinhughes/100201/IMG_3438/web.jpg?ver=12953984960001

That would look sweet with the ring mounted on the inside of the spider!

Neal

That would look sweet with the ring mounted on the inside of the spider!

Neal

Yes, but the chainstay may not agree.

Yes, but the chainstay may not agree.

That's what hammers are for.

Neal

That would look sweet with the ring mounted on the inside of the spider!

Neal

I'm on it.

Thanks for the corroboration on the "nominal" size versus actual measurement size(s) of the Stronglight tool and the crank it threads into. I'm officially convinced...plus I'm convinced that there's a darn good reason to use the "nominal" sizes when we refer to these things in order to avoid confusion. What if people started calling the 22mm tools and cranks "21.8" or "22.2"? We'd all be looking for a special French-sized quill stem tool...or something ;)

Thanks for the corroboration on the "nominal" size versus actual measurement size(s) of the Stronglight tool and the crank it threads into. I'm officially convinced...plus I'm convinced that there's a darn good reason to use the "nominal" sizes when we refer to these things in order to avoid confusion. What if people started calling the 22mm tools and cranks "21.8" or "22.2"? We'd all be looking for a special French-sized quill stem tool...or something ;)

Agreed--that 23.35/23.15 confusion deserves to get laid to rest. So what nominal dimension are we using? 23.35? Or what? I'll be happy to stick to whatever number everyone agrees on.

The first time my stien 23.35 went into a crank it was a tight fit, but now its not a problem.
Yes... I did notice that and the dust cap now seems to need some teflon tape...

Bear in mind that this could be the first time a tool has been run down those threads............and you sure would prefer a tight fit over a loose one.........