Folding Bikes - 250 miles with the new Belt Drive Moulton TSR-2

Since I haven't seen a review about the new Moulton TSR-2, I thought I'd write a few words of my impressions.. I'm a big fan of 2 speed kickback hubs.. I like belt drives .. and the Moulton spaceframe models are my favorite bikes to ride .. so, the announcement in late 2009 of the belt drive Moulton TSR-2 seriously piqued my interest.. In late 2010 a few trickled into the US.. I got the first ones off of the boat and filled my pre-orders .. our most notable of professors flew out from Chicago to pick his up.. I kept one to put some miles on and provide demo rides.. other than a change of tires to a little wider Primo Comet (42x406) to allow me to ride some of the dirt trails in the area, the addition of lights, mirror, and tool bag, the bike is basically box stock..

The TSR-2 uses the new Sturmey Archer S2C kickback coaster brake hub... the belt drive system is from CDrive, which has provided it to a few OEMs wanting to implement the system on their bikes .. it is not nearly as expensive as Gates Carbon Drive, and as such, can get more people into belt drive technology at a lower price point.. gear inch range with the stock Continentals is approximately 50 to 70 gear inches using a 67/25 sprocket/cog.. with the change to the larger 42/406 Primo Comets, 52/72 gear inches.. that's very close to what I'm used to with my Dahon Mu at 54/74 and my converted Titanium Douglas at 56/76.. the frame is almost identical to other TSR models with the exception of horizontal rear drop outs, a split in the seat stay to allow belt installation, and an absence of rear braze-ons and cable stops.. it has a very clean look and handles the same as the rest of the TSR family.


So what do I think after 250 miles of use in moderately hilly Marin County, CA, all in all, the bike is a pleasure to ride .. I've been trying to push its limits, out of saddle uphill sprints and hard use of the coaster brake on the long downhills ... the TSR-2 is ultra simple, no cables to the rear, no shifters, and the belt drive is silky smooth .. it's biking in almost its most basic form... the Sturmey S2C is new to the market and doesn't really have a track record.. the coaster brake is powerful and will lock the rear wheel up instantly if you don't modulate the pedal pressure with care .. it is much more sensitive than either the Sachs, Shimano or earlier Sturmey units that I have used.. I'm sure as the parts continue to wear in, the abruptness will smooth out... the hub shifts by back-pedalling a few degrees and then proceeding to pedal forward.. there isn't much room between shifting and starting to apply the brake.. it's a knack one gets used to after a few miles.. having a 2 speed, belt drive, full suspension bike that separates in half might seem like an odd combination to some, but in actual practice, it should find a few happy cyclists wanting a bike this simple, clean, quiet and comfortable.. I like the TSR-2 a lot.

Bruce




http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x301/bmetras/DSC02951.jpg

Bruce,

...and it's not Black - nice color!

Interesting bike, but I'm not personally a big fan of coaster brakes after riding a cruiser for the last two years. I recently added a front hand brake to balance things out a bit (and it's now set-up the same as my Dahon S1).

What is the cable visible in the pic?

Lou

Front brake.

Thank you for sharing! I would love to have a moulton. Only if they could fold fast and fit into my luggage. :(

I'd love to have a Moulton. I'm saving for one now.

Nice write up. Good to see these bikes slowly getting out there.

As per another thread I have a TSR2 as well, purchased by my wife for my 50th birthday :p

Mine is boring black, but hey that is what I like

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/5151484274_bf3e3b00e0_z.jpg

More pics on flicr here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/45051578@N05/sets/72157625135708197/) if you are interested.

I currently ride a Brompton for my daily commute and have a modernised Raliegh Moulton MK3 as my shopping/day bike.

I have been slowly working up on the bike to about 100 miles covered. I plan to switch to this for my daily commute in the spring.

I love the bike both for its simplicity and the ability to split it in half with few cables and no messy/oily chains. The only problem I had with the belt drive was it started to squeak after about 25 miles or so. Some grit or something got into the rear sprocket but was soon sorted on its first free maintenance call.

I would say my only gripe was the riding position with the stock bars and stem. A personal thing I guess, as being older I can't cope with a stooped rinding position. Basically by changing the stem and bars I have brought the whole position up two inches or so and slightly forward about an inch. I now find it really comfortable to ride. The stock folding pedals are functional, but this weekend I changed them to quick release QRD Wellgo caged ones (as per this (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/674212-New-Wellgo-QRD-Quick-Release-Pedals?p=11338921&viewfull=1#post11338921) thread) and also fitted some Power Grips. This is the first time I have used Power Grips and I have to say I like them. It makes it even nicer to ride as the folding pedals, whilst ok, do not grip that well.

Finally I added some genreic 20" mudguards which I will probably remove them when the drier eather comes. I also plan to try some Kojak tyres. I managed to find a an adjustable seat post clamp as well. The seat post is pretty large at 38mm and not so common, but they are available if you look round. My one is a 38.5mm one made by Hope.

The S2C hub does take a little getting use to and as you say is different than the F&S Duoamatic which I also have fitted on my MK3. I would say the F&S is smoother but that may be because the S2C needs a little wearing in as you say. I also find the S2C seems to occasionally slip into the other gear, but that may again just be me getting use to it or it wearing in.

Its a bold move by Moulton to try out this new technology, but in this application I think it works really well.

Ps I haven't read it yet, but there is a review of the TSR2 in the March issue of Cycling Active. By all accounts I am told the review is a little disjointed but overall it gives the bike the thumbs up.

Regards

Jerry

I'd like to give a 250-mile report on my TSR-2. However, after riding ~45 miles in California on the pickup trip I've probably logged all of 10 miles in the last four weeks due to snow, temperatures in the teens or below (Fahrenheit), illness, or some combination thereof - these being the downsides of winter in Chicago. So, I'll let you know in two months (and 195 miles) or so. :(

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/5151484274_bf3e3b00e0_z.jpg

...

I would say my only gripe was the riding position with the stock bars and stem. A personal thing I guess, as being older I can't cope with a stooped rinding position. Basically by changing the stem and bars I have brought the whole position up two inches or so and slightly forward about an inch. I now find it really comfortable to ride. ...

What bars did you go with, Jerry? They're elegant.

Thanks lexm,

As I said without higher/longer stem and the new bars it was not comfortable for me at all. Its pretty much perfect now :)

The bars are just some generic non brand alloy ones that I picked up from my local bike shop. If I recall I think they have a 1/2 inch sweep back and 1 inch rise. I cut them back to the same width as the originals give or take a mm or two. I will check the label that came with them and report back.

Regards

Jerry

I'd like to give a 250-mile report on my TSR-2. However, after riding ~45 miles in California on the pickup trip I've probably logged all of 10 miles in the last four weeks due to snow, temperatures in the teens or below (Fahrenheit), illness, or some combination thereof - these being the downsides of winter in Chicago. So, I'll let you know in two months (and 195 miles) or so. :(Snow? You're soft. :)

Hmmm. I am toying with the idea of converting my now spare Moulton APB which I broke into a TSR-2 clone.

Hmmm. I am toying with the idea of converting my now spare Moulton APB which I broke into a TSR-2 clone.

Do it, man! You don't want me calling you soft. ;)

Lexm is the Moulton your only bike now? I checked out your log, some nice bikes on there.

Snow? You're soft. :)

He'll be hard by Spring .. he's a man on a mission..:thumb:

Lexm is the Moulton your only bike now? I checked out your log, some nice bikes on there.

In addition to the Moulton TSR-2 (a.k.a., Turandot, the Mighty Deuce, Stiffy Byng), I have a Brompton M1R (a.k.a., Bobbie Wickham). Mrs lexm has taken over the Strida (a.k.a., Honoria Glossop*) and, later this week, she'll receive a Peter-Reich-built Swift (no nickname yet) that I just got a UPS shipping notification for.

[* Stephanie "Stiffy" Byng, Roberta "Bobbie" Wickham, and Honoria Glossop are all Bertie Wooster love interests in the Jeeves & Wooster stories. The Mighty Deuce should be obvious. Turandot, from the opera, is an inside joke between Mr Metras and me. :thumb:]

Thanks for looking at my tumblelog - it was conceived on a dare.

A former New Yorker, my favorite word.

In addition to the Moulton TSR-2 (a.k.a., Turandot, the Mighty Deuce, Stiffy Byng), I have a Brompton M1R (a.k.a., Bobbie Wickham). Mrs lexm has taken over the Strida (a.k.a., Honoria Glossop) and, later this week, she'll receive a Peter-Reich-built Swift (no nickname yet) that I just got a UPS shipping notification for.

[* Stephanie "Stiffy" Byng, Roberta "Bobbie" Wickham, and Honoria Glossop are all Bertie Wooster love interests in the Jeeves & Wooster stories. The Mighty Deuce should be obvious. Turandot, from the opera, is an inside joke between Mr Metras and me. :thumb:]

Thanks for looking at my tumblelog - it was conceived on a dare.


All these fine bikes in his first year of Folderitis.

"ROOKIE OF THE YEAR!" :thumb::thumb::thumb:

All these fine bikes in his first year of Folderitis.

"ROOKIE OF THE YEAR!" :thumb::thumb::thumb:
Year?? Try decade. :)

Year?? Try decade. :)

Whatever period I get to be 'rookie of', I couldn't have done it without you guys. :hug: (And on that uncharacteristically saccharine note, I'm going to bed. :thumb:)

@JerrySimon: Any particular reason for you to be using the Brompton as your daily commuter?

@JerrySimon: Any particular reason for you to be using the Brompton as your daily commuter?

Well my commute is 5 and 1/4 miles each way and my Brompton has a little help:p

Firstly appologies to Bruce in advance for going off topic :o

Brompton front wheel laced with small 2kg, 36v, 260RPM, Tongxin/Nano, 80mm wide and almost silent 36h hub motor.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4531430760_49ce06735d_z.jpg

I started commuting by bike (having not ridden one in years) just over a year and 1500 miles ago leaving the car at home. My DIY EBrompton enabled me to overcome both lack of fitness combined with a medical condition that meant I would have never been able to contenplate it without this modification. The conversion provides gentle assist over the full 10+ mile commute and with battery, controller and motor only adds 3kgs to the weight. The controller and battery sit in the front bag so I can easily split the two, carrying one in each hand into my office or off and on trains/buses etc. If you are interested then my post here (http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/5224-e-brompton-first-ride-tweaks.html#post66383) on the UK pedelec forum, covers the whole DIY conversion process.

Since starting my commute however I have slowly been working up my fitness to a point where I hope to soon be able to alternate week day commutes, on this and the TSR2 as the weather and my confidence/stamina build up further.

Regards

Jerry

Brompton front wheel laced with small 2kg, 36v, 260RPM, Tongxin/Nano, 80mm wide and almost silent 36h hub motor. I am interested in building an electric wheel for SWMBO, could you pls post the info about the electric Tongxin hub and its supplier?

Since Jerry's been generous with photographs I think I'll add a couple of more recent ones of my TSR-2. (Apologies for the indoor lighting and my always dodgy photography.)

Here's the Mighty Deuce in the kitchen:
189262

She is pretty much as she came from the factory, except for the TSR day bag, an N'lock stem (it disengages from steerer with the turn of a key - the inventor conceives of it mainly as an anti-theft device; for me the appeal is easy turning of the handlebars for flat storage of the bike) and a first-generation Rido saddle generously donated to the cause by the maestro himself, Bruce Metras.
189261189263

If not for the single-digit (Fahrenheit) temperatures and wind chills well below zero, I'd be riding right now. :(

I am interested in building an electric wheel for SWMBO, could you pls post the info about the electric Tongxin hub and its supplier?

They are actually quite hard to source as the manufacture won't sell direct unless you buy them in the hundreds!

The link below is the only reliable source that we have found, but it means buying direct from China and paying by western union. The contact is Billy. You need to be absolutely certain that you get the specification right as the cost of postage, means its not worth returning. For this reason most of us have ordered two to provide a backup/spare (postage cost is the same for one or two). Note also delivery can be anything from 3 - 6 weeks plus. The whole process requires a lot of patience!


Link is http://www.desheng-intl.com/

As quoted above the link to my DIY build details is here (http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/5224-e-brompton-first-ride-tweaks.html#post66383) where you should be able to find everything you need, including the problems you will need to overcome if you order the wrong motor casing :o

Regards

Jerry

Since Jerry's been generous with photographs I think I'll add a couple of more recent ones of my TSR-2. (Apologies for the indoor lighting and my always dodgy photography.)

Lexm,

Its all looking very nice especially with the proper mudguards, unlike my generic ones. Interesting concept on the N'lock system, which I need to follow up on. What is the length of the stem lock center to center ?

Like you I need to sort out my luggage option. I prefer luggage on the front like my Brompton. Did you buy the carrier direct ?

Re the colder weather I have a rule, if its below 3 oC I don't commute on my bike :p

PS I just checked it looks like it is 120mm. Also I assume you used a shim to bring it up to the 1" diam stem tube fitting ?

Seems like a good idea as you say for storage, but they aint cheap!

Regards

Jerry

Lexm,

Its all looking very nice especially with the proper mudguards, unlike my generic ones. Interesting concept on the N'lock system, which I need to follow up on. What is the length of the stem lock center to center ?

I couldn't tell you. I bought the adjustable one because, like you, I need to be more upright (and the next modification will be a handlebar with some rise to it - hence my earlier question to you), but the deal-sealer was the ability to turn the handlebar at the turn of a key. Mrs lexm and I live in a small apartment. The only way the Moulton can work is if it's as inobtrusive as can be when not separated.


Like you I need to sort out my luggage option. I prefer luggage on the front like my Brompton. Did you buy the carrier direct ?

I ordered the day rack and day bag with the TSR-2 from the best damn Moulton dealer in North America, B Metras Co.*

[* Disclaimer: I have no financial interest in the B Metras Co. I am not a paid endorser. I am just a deliriously happy customer who was both well-treated and well-looked-after by the sales and service departments. ;)]


Re the colder weather I have a rule, if its below 3 oC I don't commute on my bike :p

3 oC (~37 oF)? Ha! Anything above -2 oC (~28 oF) I'll ride without question (barring unplowed snow on the road) and I've ridden as low as -7 oC (~18 oF). The Bike Winter crowd maintains that anything at or above -5 oC (~21 oF) is eligible. Then again, this is Chicago. We'd have to put away our bikes from November to April if we insisted upon above-freezing temperatures to ride. :)


PS I just checked it looks like it is 120mm. Also I assume you used a shim to bring it up to the 1" diam stem tube fitting ?

Seems like a good idea as you say for storage, but they aint cheap!

Yes on the shim; no on the cheap - but it's a small price to pay for keeping the Mrs free of protruding handlebars and, therefore, happy. :thumb:

Ok now I have my new pedals sorted I have been looking at luggage options.

I love the idea of removable bags on the front, a little like the Brompton solution.

This follows on from that idea. Its really just a small back pack option for carrying a few bits and bobs to work. For me the beauty of a backpack, is I can then get off the bike when I get to work put the backpack on my back which then leaves me two hands free to seperate the bike and carry it in to store safely in my office :)

I have looked at the stock Moulton rear and front carrier options and am not convinced they meet my requirement.

I have been drawn to the KlickFix range specifically a backpack they do.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/KlickFix-KM821-Klickfix-Freepack-Sport/dp/B000AQQVQQ/ref\
=sr_1_4?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1297425545&sr=1-4 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/KlickFix-KM821-Klickfix-Freepack-Sport/dp/B000AQQVQQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1297425545&sr=1-4)

Or maybe this

http://www.amazon.co.uk/KlickFix-Klickfix-Freepack-Meta-1/dp/B002O3904I

The Klickfix site makes for interesting reading.

http://www.klickfix.de/

Here is a picture showing the back pack fitted to a Moulton saddle post.

http://cdn.cyclingforums.com/9/96/265x265px-LS-96d9415d_1027897888_RixenKaul1.jpg

Finally very costly but you can get an adapter to fit it to the front. I am
speaking to one of the engineers here at work who said he make me one up quite
easily :)

https://cs205.xbit.jp/%7Ew037139/goods_image/A11_Z1.jpg

I definately prefer a mounting up front.

http://www.espaibici.com/catalogo/catalog/images/freepack_meta_ii.jpg

Regards

Jerry

After weeks of the weather and my schedule conspiring to keep me off the TSR-2 (a.k.a., Turandot, the Mighty Deuce, Stiffy Byng), a deftly cleared calendar and ride-friendly*, late-am/early-pm weather invite me to hit the near north side's mean streets.

[* For the meaning of ride-friendly, see my previous post. It was about -2c/28f, low winds, and a few flurries - or what denizens of the sun belt would call 'snow'. :lol:]

I don long underwear, wool socks with liners, jeans, snow boots, and the Swrve Milwaukee hoodie you may have seen me wearing in the Pretty Darn Good Adventure and Merry Moulton Melee threads. I add a Walz cap, 180s ear warmers, glove liners and my favorite Spenco gloves. Ready for action. (Let's play the Feud! :rolleyes:)

Wheeling Turandot into the elevator and out the loading dock, we ride west two blocks, and take a hard right onto Dearborn Street. I choose Dearborn because it is a one-way street with a bike lane on the left side - handy, as I'll turn left onto Huron in a few blocks. The value of the bike lane ranges from dubious to non-existent. Today, it is non-existent. Snow having accumulated in the parking spaces on the west side of Dearborn, motorists thoughtfully park in the bike lane in droves and Chicago's finest are nowhere to be seen - even though the parking tickets on Dearborn alone could close the city's budget shortfall. (But I digress.)

Left on Huron, past LaSalle, and a right on Wells puts me on the Windy City's main bicycle artery. North of Chicago Avenue, Wells is a relatively quiet downtown street with lots of stop signs to deter motorists from using it as a main artery. For the cyclist, it is a thread of calm in the woven chaos that is Chicago's street grid.

Turandot and I relax and ride. Even after a long layoff, I have the rhythm of the kick shift mostly down. After only 50 miles or so since I collected her from Bruce in California, the Sturmey S2C shifts like butter. The only indications that I've changed gear are the resistance in the pedals and the speed of the bike. Nothing sounds or feels like a shift. Why would you want anything else on a town bike in a flat city?

Although I've not ridden her in a couple of weeks (and then, it was only a short ride back from Rapid Transit where she got a safety inspection and an unsuccessful attempt to install a stem riser*), Turandot doesn't sit idle. She now sports a Cateye Reflex TL-LD560 taillight/reflector where her reflector used to be and a Planet Bike Blaze headlight. After some trial and error, the snubber that keeps the belt from slipping seems to be adjusted right. Whereas earlier rides were marred by the occasional slip, today Turandot turns in a slip-free performance. The belt is smooth, quiet, and all business even when this heavy rider (100kg/220lbs) turns the cranks hard.

[* Unsuccessful because of the N'Lock stem, according to the boys at Rapid Transit. The stem riser couldn't accommodate things peculiar to the innards of the N'lock. I'm not sure whether that is a problem with the particular stem riser I chose or any stem riser. However, Plan B is to seek a handlebar with some rise to it. Right now I'm thinking about a Soma Sparrow.]

With that, the sensation of oneness is complete: the TSR-2 feels like it's all of a piece. It's not a collection of parts that together make up a bike. It's a bike - solid, sure-footed, fun to just get on and ride. Fully suspended, it doesn't roll over the pavement. It glides.

All good things, including Wells Street, must come to an end. So we go left onto Lincoln (one of Chicago's very few diagonal-running streets) and jockey with cars, cabs, and delivery trucks until we reach Sedgwick. Snaking our way through some still snowy residential streets, we rejoin Lincoln and ride southeast to Wells, south on Wells to Illinois, east on Illinois to Rush, and south on Rush to our loading dock.

The TSR-2 seems to command the street in a way the other bikes (Brompton, Strida) don't. I don't know whether it's the suspension, the larger wheels, or just my imagination, but nothing I've done on her so far has tested her limits (compare Brompton, Strida). The Brompton and Strida are both better when I have somewhere to go (after all, they are built to be carried and stowed), but in motion the TSR-2 beats them soundly.

For those of you scoring at home: 6.5 miles, ~30 cars parked in bike lanes, no sista-I-can't-resist-her :(, 2 speeds, and blood glucose of 94 on my return. I eat 2 Big Meaty pizza slices from Pie Guys to stave off hypoglycemia. :thumb:

Nice write-up, Lexm. I don't venture out when it's in the 40's, as I am a California-spoiled weather wimp. I can't imagine being out there in below freezing temps!

By the way, it's not just your imagination about the TSR ride being special. The space frame, suspension and long wheelbase make the TSR ride noticeably different. It's my favorite ride for long distance and comfort.

Yep nice to see you are getting more familiar with your TSR2. Like you I also have a Brompton and have to agree the suspension on the front of the TSR2 seems to make such a difference. I also think perhaps the 20" wheels improve things a little too. The perfect Brompton of course, would be one with suspension on the front.

However you still can't beat the Brompton for its portability. If I am popping in and out of shops in town then the Brompton makes it a breeze. Couldn't really do that with the TSR2. However as I said when the weather improves, I plan to start taking my TSR2 into work daily, as it is just portable enough to seperate and carry into my office.

Interesting I note you mention hypoglycemia. I myself have type 1 diabeties (diagnosed late twenties) so its all a bit of a balancing act when cycling. I always carry a couple of small bite sized cartons of orange juice, as I find this is the best treatment when hypoglycemia catches me unprepared. Good thing about regular cycling, is it reduces the amount of insulin I have to take and keeps the blood circulating :)

PS Re stem riser, that and an adjustable stem just looks too busy in my view and make it look ugly as shown below.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/5125800803_45212f17b8.jpg


As you say a new set of handle bars that rise will sort that out for sure and add to the overall comfort if you prefer a more upright position. Initally I tried a 120mm adjustable stem and riser but the final adjustable stem I settled on was a 130mm. The handle bars rise by about an inch at the ends and sweep back 5 degrees.

Much better :p

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1358/5125801401_9b11144c24.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1072/5126407292_b630de5445.jpg

Regards

Jerry

Lexm, enjoyable reading of your escapades .. nice to see you out on the TSR-2 in such cold weather.. nothing like that here in Marin.. thanks for the props and glad you are happy .

Thanks for sharing! I was looking high and low for some first hand experience on those S2C hubs.

And the bike looks great!

Glad to read about and see photos of the bike I've been awaiting since last Fall. I'd like to hear more about your experience with the belt drive, and the tensioner system.

I had a Bendix yellow-band kickback w/ coaster brake back in the mid-70's, and enjoyed working on it's internals myself as well as riding all over Champaign-Urbana (central Illinois).

Well I finally plucked up the courage to dismantle my back wheel/S2C/belt assembly so I will post some pics. I wanted to do it as I know I will have to if/when I get a puncture. I also took off the sprocket assembly and cleaned it all up why I had the chance.

I am just up loading some pics. Removal is pretty simple actually.

1. Loosen the two tensioner clips by undoing the hex headed bolts at the back end of the horizontal drop outs.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5054/5482129321_dee9f09508.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5058/5482725230_9085e44eec.jpg

2. Loosen the main axel nuts and remove them and the tensioners both side. Drive side one includes extended arm and roller to prevent belt jumping.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5019/5481058471_0e289d2c39.jpg

3. Loosen and remove the bolt in brake arm and pull it away from the left hand chain stay
4. The wheel should now push forward to slacken the belt.
5. Push it far enough forward so it will come of the main chain wheel (its easier than trying to take it off the rear sprocket) and then you can take it off the rear sprocket.. Note do NOT twist or bend the belt.
6. The rear wheel should now be free to be taken out of the horizontal drop outs. Its an interference/tight fit.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5017/5481658904_b062677164.jpg


Regards

Jerry

As I had it apart I then took the sprocket off so I could clean it. Here are the parts

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5015/5481657878_c91949304b.jpg

It includes washer (this actually goes on the non drive side to space the hub in the dropouts) circlip which holds the 25T sprocket on, two spacers and a rubber gator that keeps the muck out.

Interestingly the 25T sprocket is all metal, when I had thought it was plastic/composite like the main chain ring.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5481658040_85097d4380.jpg

I am trying to find out from Pashley/Moulton why one of the spacers (first one against the sprocket) has little bits glued onto it rather than just use a third spacer ?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5481058043_b6c9a25075.jpg

Anyway re-assembly is easy. Basically the reverse though you tension the belt before you tighten up the hub axel nuts. The instructions say the belt should have no more than 12mm deflection at mid point on the chain stay between the main chain ring and the sprocket. Mine is set at about 8-10mm it recommends slightly tighter depending on strength of rider. I bassically lined up a spoke nipple with the top of the belt and set it so the belt deflected about a quarter of the way between spokes. Although you can measure it exactly I wanted to do it by eye as when I am out on the road this would be the only way to do it. In the workshop you can set a steel rule edge on the top of the belt and then use another rule to measure the deflection at mid point.

It is also important to make sure the wheel is square in the dropouts and again as per the instructions, you need to make sure the belt does not mover inwards or outwards on the main chain ring. This is done by adjusting the non drive side tensioner i.e lossening or tightening to prevent this.

Hope that helps answer the question about tensioning and the break down is usefull for other onwers. Good idea to try it first in the workshop, as you will almost certainly have to do it on the road side at some point when you get a puncture.

:speedy:.


Regards

Jerry

... a right on Wells puts me on the Windy City's main bicycle artery. North of Chicago Avenue, Wells is a relatively quiet downtown street with lots of stop signs to deter motorists from using it as a main artery. For the cyclist, it is a thread of calm in the woven chaos that is Chicago's street grid.

Also location of Crofton on Wells. Bring a large chunk of change, order up an awesome bottle of wine, splurge on yumminess. Venison chops, mmmmmm...

I am trying to find out from Pashley/Moulton why one of the spacers (first one against the sprocket) has little bits glued onto it rather than just use a third spacer ?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5481058043_b6c9a25075.jpg



Jerry, you should be getting proper spacers... the one you show with 'glued on bits' was not meant for production bikes.. you have a very early model.. also ask for the improved belt snubber kit .. you'll be glad you did.

Bruce

Thanks Bruce,

I have emailed Pashley/Moulton. I thought this snubber kit was the production version ?

Is yours different ? any chance of a photo ?

My TSR2 was one of the first ones available October last year.

PS I have a second S2C hub that I got for another bike. As you say I don't recall seeing any spacers like that in it. Also looking at your first pic your snubber does look different.

Regards

Jerry

Thanks Bruce,

I have emailed Pashley/Moulton. I thought this snubber kit was the production version ?

Is yours different ? any chance of a photo ?

My TSR2 was one of the first ones available October last year.

PS I have a second S2C hub that I got for another bike. As you say I don't recall seeing any spacers like that in it. Also looking at your first pic your snubber does look different.

Regards

Jerry

Your pictured shim with 'glued on bits' was not meant for final production ... proper shims are available .. the snubber on your bike is indeed a production version (as supplied from CDrive).. there will be an updated kit from Moulton that will work better.. mine was a 'one off' mock-up, something I did in the shop here to aid in development..

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x301/bmetras/Moulton%20TSR-2%20Belt%20Drive/DSC02950.jpg

Thanks for the clarification and close up picture Bruce. Your snubber certainly looks like it will keep the belt engaged well on the sprocket teeth :D

I notice in your picture that you do not have the rubber gator between the edge of the rear sprocket and the hub spoke holes (see first picture on post 34 (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/711924-250-miles-with-the-new-Belt-Drive-Moulton-TSR-2?p=12285968&viewfull=1#post12285968)above) ?

Regards

Jerry

Thanks for the clarification and close up picture Bruce. Your snubber certainly looks like it will keep the belt engaged well on the sprocket teeth :D

I notice in your picture that you do not have the rubber gator between the edge of the rear sprocket and the hub spoke holes (see first picture on post 34 (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/711924-250-miles-with-the-new-Belt-Drive-Moulton-TSR-2?p=12285968&viewfull=1#post12285968)above) ?



Regards

Jerry

Actually, my snubber in not directly contacting the belt, there's some clearance, about the thickness of a business card.. I was trying to eliminate as much drag as possible, so I removed the gator and am running a stock S2C dust cap.. Here's a link to a rough video I did a while back showing how long my wheel free spins on the stand using the S2C dust cap rather than the gator ..



http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x301/bmetras/Moulton%20TSR-2%20Belt%20Drive/th_TSR2-S2C.jpg (http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x301/bmetras/Moulton%20TSR-2%20Belt%20Drive/?action=view&current=TSR2-S2C.mp4)

Of course, excellent video!

I had noticed that my freewheel is poor and it never occured to me that the gator may be reducing the freewheel because of the friction against the hub and spokes. I had assumed it was because the hub is new and needs wearing in, though that is probably true as well. I will try fitting the dust cover from my other S2C hub. I assume I can also use a standard spacer ring from my other S2C hub as well ?

Regards

Jerry

Update - I contacted Pashley/Moulton who responded quickly, were incredibly helpfull and very apologetic about the pre-production shim being in there. They are sending me out new shims and a new style snubber :)

Apparently there is nothing wrong with the snubber I have but CDRIVE have changed the one that comes in the kit and it no longer fits the TSR2. They have made there own and from what I understand it provides a little more adjustment. I will report back when they send it to me.

Regards

Jerry

Well almost finished my Klickfix Freepack Meta 1 front fitting arrangement.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5297/5516686045_cdaa8b3284_z.jpg

http://www.bikeforums.net/]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5294/5517275208_16b0572983_z.jpghttp://farm6.static.flickr.com/5294/5517275208_16b0572983_z.jpg

I may spray paint it black to match the frame.

Here are the flicr set of pictures (http://www.flickr.com/photos/45051578@N05/sets/72157626242702790/) that detail the build.

Also my new S2C hub shims and the new snubber have arrived from Pashley so I will post more details about them, after I fit them over the weekend :)

Regards

Jerry

Hi Bruce and Jerry, I'm debating whether to replace the rubber gator with a stock dust cap. Obviously the dust cap would make the freewheeling much smoother. From your experience, however, would it improve the efficiency of forward cranking as well? I also wonder about the difference in dirt blocking effectiveness between these two options. Is the rubber gator so much better in keeping the hub clean that a small loss in power is acceptable? Thanks in advance.

Hi Bruce and Jerry, I'm debating whether to replace the rubber gator with a stock dust cap. Obviously the dust cap would make the freewheeling much smoother. From your experience, however, would it improve the efficiency of forward cranking as well? I also wonder about the difference in dirt blocking effectiveness between these two options. Is the rubber gator so much better in keeping the hub clean that a small loss in power is acceptable? Thanks in advance.

In direct drive (gear 1), there won't be any difference in pedaling effort as the gator,hub, and cog are spinning at the same rpm.. in second gear, the gator and hub will be spinning at 1.38 rpms more than the cog.. that will be where the extra drag might be noticeable.. you can put it on a stand and see if you feel the difference using your hand at the cranks..

Another thing to look at is the tightness of the cone nuts on both sides.. I've seen the S2C's come in very tight.. unfortunately, you need a 23mm cone wrench for the non-drive side.. unfortunate only because 23mm is not always easy to come by at a local LBS, but you can get them online pretty easily. The gator could protect from the elements better than the dust cap that comes as original equipment on S2C's purchased separately, or installed in other OEM applications besides the TSR-2..

Finally, when the new belt snubbers hit the USA, get one.. this will allow you to ease up on the belt tension and further improve the pedaling efficiency ..

Bruce

Thank you very much for the detailed reply Bruce. I did lower the belt tension and it helped. Hadn't thought of the cone nuts though. Just to make sure I understand you correctly: You are referring to the "cone locknuts" (HMN424 and HMN405, items 1 and 9 in the S2C manual) and not "dome nut" (HMN388, item 14), correct?

Thank you very much for the detailed reply Bruce. I did lower the belt tension and it helped. Hadn't thought of the cone nuts though. Just to make sure I understand you correctly: You are referring to the "cone locknuts" (HMN424 and HMN405, items 1 and 9 in the S2C manual) and not "dome nut" (HMN388, item 14), correct?

Correct..

Thanks!