Hybrid Bicycles - I honestly don't trust any of the original components on my Cannondale...

WARNING RANT>>>>>
Yes it's another one of those "I was just riding along when..."
You know, the ones the bikes shops don't believe. Well I've had a few with my Bad Boy and tonight, another.
Tonight, I was riding along the footpath when my seatpost snapped. Lucky it didn't slice my leg or ram up my arse.
Of course I have no proof that I wasn't jumping the bike, or had a collision etc...
I have contacted Cannondale previously with issues but they flick pass me, advising to contact the original supplier. The guy who sold me the bike now owns his own bike shop and refuses to deal with the Japanese Cannondale importer, and the original shop stopped selling Cannondale.
The thing is I love the geometry of my Cannondale and keep forgiving it. I'll probably forgive it again this time, and look forward to the next failure.
Oh, pictures to follow tomorrow.

WARNING RANT>>>>>
Yes it's another one of those "I was just riding along when..."
You know, the ones the bikes shops don't believe. Well I've had a few with my Bad Boy and tonight, another.
Tonight, I was riding along the footpath when my seatpost snapped. Lucky it didn't slice my leg or ram up my arse.
Of course I have no proof that I wasn't jumping the bike, or had a collision etc...
I have contacted Cannondale previously with issues but they flick pass me, advising to contact the original supplier. The guy who sold me the bike now owns his own bike shop and refuses to deal with the Japanese Cannondale importer, and the original shop stopped selling Cannondale.
The thing is I love the geometry of my Cannondale and keep forgiving it. I'll probably forgive it again this time, and look forward to the next failure.
Oh, pictures to follow tomorrow.

Doesn't suprise me that the post failed when you consider all the mounts and dismounts you may do riding in traffic. Just replace with a quality seat post and carry on.

If you're not breaking stuff, you aren't trying hard enough. A carbon Easton (black with red in logo) would look hot on your bike!

Post a picture in the "What did you break today" thread.

If you're not breaking stuff, you aren't trying hard enough. A carbon Easton (black with red in logo) would look hot on your bike!

Post a picture in the "What did you break today" thread.

I've already been online checking out the Carbon Easton. d(^.^) I've used carbon posts before but was frustrated with continuously having to deal with slipping. Any suggestions on how to stop it? I was also looking at the Easton EA50. Not as pretty I know. Thomson Elite looks good too. Ah, choices choices.

Photos have now been loaded in the "What did you break today" thread.

... Just replace with a quality seat post and carry on.
I'm onto it now.

I've never used a carbon seatpost. I have had problems with 27.2 seatposts fitting well in the Cannondale frames I've owned. When I tightened the seatpost clamp it would deform the seat tube too much, in my opinion. I don't like to see the gap squeezed shut. I may be wrong but it seems like the metal is being forced to do something bad, maybe will fatigue and crack due to the stress. I don't know... I shimmed the post with a piece of aluminum (beer can). I don't know if the post would have slipped, I shimmed it before trying to ride without a shim.
http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr147/Rod_Smith/bike/DSC06351.jpg

I know you like to keep your bike looking nice. If you place it carefully, I think you can insert the shim such that it doesn't show, unlike the mess pictured above. This one was initially a cleaner install, it got scrunched up when I adjusted to seat height for a friend to ride the bike. Trial and error will allow you to determine how big the shim should be. It doesn't need to go all the way around the post, it should be possible to position completely out of sight. Just be careful it doesn't drop too far down before tightening.

I don't know if the sharp edges could possibly damage a carbon post. Maybe you should use a metal post. I don't know...

The dust and rust (XT seatposts were made of steel at one time) and messed up shim don't look this bad in real life (actual size).

Thankyou for the info. I used a "coke" shim on my Giant (RIP) when the headset didn't fit well. Worked for about 8 years until that sad night when it had a little head-on with a motor bike.
I went down to a bike shop tonight and found a beautiful carbon post. I ummmed and aaahhhhed and spoke to the assistant about the slippage. He suggested some "fancy" gel which helps bond it into place. Maybe like a type of locktight.
I'll do some more thinking but I really think an alloy post will win out.

Go with a Thomson Elite post. I don't own one, but they are spoken very highly of.

I am not a fan of carbon. Especially a seatpost. The only carbon item I have on any of my bikes now is a carbon headset spacer, I figure it doesnt matter there :)

Go with a Thomson Elite post. I don't own one, but they are spoken very highly of.

I am not a fan of carbon. Especially a seatpost. The only carbon item I have on any of my bikes now is a carbon headset spacer, I figure it doesnt matter there :)

If I had a seatpost snap, indicating that I might be placing unusual strain on them, then the last thing I'd do is put a carbon post on. And, yes, the Thomson Elite's are normally reckoned the top of the seatpost tree, unless you like insane weight weeny stuff.

Just to check with the original poster: you did make sure that you enough post inside the tube, yes?

Yeah for spacers carbon would be allowed by my standards but the weight difference between carbon and aluminum spacers is what? a gram? ;)

My advice is to use a solid cast high grade aluminum post ... like the thomson elite you mentioned ... they appear to have pretty good value for the money also.

I don't think the Thomson seatpost is cast. I believe it's machined from aluminum billet.

"Over double the fatigue life of any production models we tested. The tube and head of the Thomson seatpost are integral-machined from one single piece of high strength 7000 series aluminum. The head is not pressed or bonded in. This allows for superior strength and minimum weight, allowing higher strength at low weights."

"The Thomson seatpost design incorporates a bending fuse to prevent catastrophic failure. All competitive seatposts we tested failed catastrophically with the seat and clamp components, and sometimes pieces of the tube and head flying off in all directions."

More here: http://bikethomson.com/products/seatposts/elite/

...you did make sure that you enough post inside the tube, yes?

18cm inside the tube which is 10cm more than the min. insert.

Sadly, I didn't end up ordering the Thomson. I ordered the Easton EA50.
She'll be ok.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f266/orbeamitis2/Cannondale%20Bad%20Boy%20Disc/ea50-2b.jpg

Nice upgrade! But it's supposed to be red inside the oval! like the logo in the upper corner, not white like on the product. Maybe you can fix that with a marker.

Too bad Cannondale is giving you the runaround but even if they gave you a new one, would you want to use it? Probably would be another cheap one.

Nice upgrade! But it's supposed to be red inside the oval! like the logo in the upper corner, not white like on the product. Maybe you can fix that with a marker.

Too bad Cannondale is giving you the runaround but even if they gave you a new one, would you want to use it? Probably would be another cheap one.

The white logo is playing with my head. The other option was yellow but that really would have blown my Obsessive Compulsive Disorder.

In relation to Cannondale you are right on the money, I wouldn't have used the replacement anyway. I'm actually laughing at the situation now as the response from them regarding the post was exactly the same computer generated message I got when I complained about the brake calipers snapping. (word for word)
...... This allows our customers to get out and ride and if there are any issues with the components, those issues generally will crop up within a year’s time and Cannondale and/or the vendor of the component can help to take care of it.
Thank you for contacting Cannondale. Have a nice day.

I have contacted Cannondale previously with issues but they flick pass me, advising to contact the original supplier. The guy who sold me the bike now owns his own bike shop and refuses to deal with the Japanese Cannondale importer, and the original shop stopped selling Cannondale.

The way you phrased this makes it sound like you are not the original owner. I don't know if the rules are different in Japan, but Cannondale warranty only applies to original owner, so it is probably 100% up to you to fix your seatpost and to make sure you don't get a splintered aluminum shaft up your arse... unless that is what your are in to (I don't judge)

The way you phrased this makes it sound like you are not the original owner. I don't know if the rules are different in Japan, but Cannondale warranty only applies to original owner, so it is probably 100% up to you to fix your seatpost and to make sure you don't get a splintered aluminum shaft up your arse... unless that is what your are in to (I don't judge)

I am the original purchaser. When Cannondale mentioned the original supplier in their email, they meant the original importer ie. Cannondale Japan. I'm not going to fix my seatpost, I'll settle on a new one. When I mentioned "The guy who sold me the bike" I meant the shop staff member. Sorry about the confusion.

Giantcfr,

Well, if you don't trust any of the components, strip down your frame and start from scratch. I'm working with a guy that is SRAM all the way... so that could be a starting point. Get an SRAM building kit, and add to that!

Mikey

P.S. It looks like your Cannondale is your main transportation... You could always use a second bike, no? So buy a nice frame, and add your custom spec'd components to it... :)

Giantcfr,

Well, if you don't trust any of the components, strip down your frame and start from scratch. I'm working with a guy that is SRAM all the way... so that could be a starting point. Get an SRAM building kit, and add to that!

Mikey

P.S. It looks like your Cannondale is your main transportation... You could always use a second bike, no? So buy a nice frame, and add your custom spec'd components to it... :)

Oh my gosh, I'm sorry to say that this Cannondale was stock Sram / Avid.
All the Avid components failed / snapped / fell apart and been replaced within the first 18 months of purchasing it.
All the Sram parts have been replaced with Shimano except with one shifter. I'll admit, the Sram levers and rear deraileur run beautifully, but I wanted to swap to my Shimano road parts for the drive train which I already had spare from my road bike.
I've settled down now, and will continue to ride this wonderful bike. I've said many times that this frame geometry is perfect for me. My frustration has been purely with the components failing. This frustration has come about due to the fact that I have been commuting on, and racing bicycles for a very long time, but never had so many things fail in what I consider such a short period of time compared with my other bikes.

Anyway, I'm over my rant, and would still recommend a Cannondale frame to anyone. d(^.^)

Those brands like Avid, SRAM or Shimano make a very wide range of components.
One can buy a set of avid brakelevers for more than $200 or for les than $20.
A fully shimano equipped bike may be completely crappy.
Basicly ... the brand says very little.

How much did you pay for this bike if everything started breaking so quickly?

...
How much did you pay for this bike if everything started breaking so quickly?
I agree with you totally.
Back in 2007 this bike cost 180,000 yen. Since then, the Badboy price has dropped conciderably since the frame manufacture has moved from the US.
So if you reduce the cost of a frame built in the US from the equation, I guess the cost of the components were relatively cheap ie. low grade.
My mistake in the first place.

I agree with you totally.
Back in 2007 this bike cost 180,000 yen. Since then, the Badboy price has dropped conciderably since the frame manufacture has moved from the US.
So if you reduce the cost of a frame built in the US from the equation, I guess the cost of the components were relatively cheap ie. low grade.
My mistake in the first place.

Not sure your right, but spoken ( with ) grace and class. That's why I got rid of my Cannondale F4,
HeadShok goes out, and not being the original owner, and good bye bike for months, plus the cost of repair.
Which could probably buy another decent Hybrid. Richard

The internet tells me 180,000 yen = 1592€
1592€ low grade?
No way! For that price you should have gotten a nearly pro bike with full XT group at least!
Or maybe bikes are very expensive in japan?

The internet tells me 180,000 yen = 1592€
1592€ low grade?
No way! For that price you should have gotten a nearly pro bike with full XT group at least!
Or maybe bikes are very expensive in japan?

Hold on Adelaar, anything running that Dl 80 Super Fatty Headshok is going to cost you ! That comes to 2154.00 USA dollars, this bike sold for the same, and has been a world class XC Racer, here were the components, Sram X-7 rear DR, X-5 Shifters, Avid Juicy disk brakes ( Hydraulic ) won't go into wheels
Etc... 27 pounds with on the fly lockout suspension, won many races. there are way better bikes out there.
But the price sounds right, I do not kow what came on the Bad Boy, but look at the list on the F4..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkGjKq02w6U Just saying, Richard

... anything running that Dl 80 Super Fatty Headshok is going to cost you !...

Richard unfortunately / fortunately mine was only the middle model ie. The Badboy Disc Si. It didn't have the headshock, I got the rigid model.

Adelaar, bikes are mixed prices here and over the past few years have been increasing rapidly due the the popularity of "boutique" bikes.
These are the specs on my model.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y214/giantcfr1/BIKES%20My%20Bikes/CANNONDALE%20BAD%20BOY%20SI%20DISC/badboyspecs.jpg

BUT, as I mentioned, the price now has dropped after the "takeover / restructure" of Cannondale. The equivilant is now only 99,000 yen and specs as follows:
http://www.cannondale.co.jp/bikes/11/model-0BR7D.html

GiantCFR1,

Do you know which components came with your bike?

SRAM X-0
SRAM's top-shelp MTB group boasts tremendous precision and performance that has won the loyalty of racers and discriminating riders worldwide

SRAM X-9
An MTB group that inherits the best technological features of the X-0 group, but with select materials to increase durability

SRAM X-7
SRAM's solution for those seeking parts that perform like their X-9 components, but at a more affordable price

Mikey

GiantCFR1,

Do you know which components came with your bike?
...Mikey

Thanks Mikey,
I just just posted them as you were posting. The details are on the previous page. The X-7 did run nicely but I swapped them for compatability with my shimano road parts.
Steve

According to the specs you got a pretty descent medium range bike there.
Weird though that the seatpost on such a bike comes to fail so soon then.
The seatpost is apparantly made by cannondale themselves ... maybe they are just not very good at those ;)

Look on the bright side: you can still upgrade quite a bit as things wear out :D

According to the specs you got a pretty descent medium range bike there.
Weird though that the seatpost on such a bike comes to fail so soon then.
The seatpost is apparantly made by cannondale themselves ... maybe they are just not very good at those ;)

Look on the bright side: you can still upgrade quite a bit as things wear out :D


It has been a couple of years now since Cannondale actually 'made' anything.

Big brands that offer seatposts, stems, hubs, bars, grips, etc. with their own brand name buy these items from major Chinese and Taiwanese suppliers. The quality for these parts can be all over the map... it is up to the company to source out suppliers that can offer reasonable quality, weed out the bad ones, and to protect their reputation they must quickly deal with any items that don't cut the mustard. These parts cost the companies pennies to replace - many of you would be astonished at the price of a single decent stem when you are buying ten thousand of them from a Chinese manufacturer.

Yeah it's hard to know quality these days with many brands putting their name on cheap chinese stuff.
When I wanted to buy my frame I had difficulties figuring out which was a good one because there can be a HUGE difference between "7005 alu frame" and "7005 alu frame" depending on the post heating process which drives the cost up considerably.
Allmost all mayor brands simply take a cheap import frame and paint their name on it so I kept searching ...
Untill I found out that a factory just a few towns away still makes frames themselves that aren't just supposed to be dirt cheap.

...
Look on the bright side: you can still upgrade quite a bit as things wear out :D

That's true, I'm actually excited about the replacement post now.....Just waiting, waiting, waiting for it's arrival. Slow boat from England ; )
As a temp, I've instaulled a Bontrager Race but it's too short.
Waiting waiting...