Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - What is your must have?

What is the one thing that you, as a clydesdale, must put on your bicycle to make it "clyde ready."

My must have is a two bolt, micro adjust seatpost. I have stripped out too many other seatposts of various design.

The tool I must have is a hex key set. It fixes 90% of my bike problems.

Ummmmm......... What have I done to my bike because of my excellent use of gravity?

I think my Serfas Vistoso saddle wins. At 230 ish I have not had to do anything special other than that.

Bontrager SSR saddle.

What is the one thing that you, as a clydesdale, must put on your bicycle to make it "clyde ready."

My must have is a two bolt, micro adjust seatpost. I have stripped out too many other seatposts of various design.

The tool I must have is a hex key set. It fixes 90% of my bike problems.

My bikes don't have so much to be Clyde ready as Neil ready. Which means:

- extenders on the pedals for my knocked knees
- raised stem for my bad back
- saddle facing slightly right for my left-looking pelvis
- lower than ideal saddle height so I can mount with one foot on the ground (right, the longer leg)
- brakes and shifters located so I can reach them without removing a hand from the bar

Ummmmm......... What have I done to my bike because of my excellent use of gravity?

I've been saying for years that I'm not fat, just "Gravitationally Enhanced"!!!!

Must have, bike specific multi-tool. Nashbar has them from several makers...

Call me crazy but I insist on air in my tires and handle bars.

Brooks B17 saddle - to cradle my over-sized a$$ :)

Me

All my bikes are pre-built "Clyde Ready", as I don't look at any superlight racing machines; so I haven't needed to change out wheelsets and the like.

To make it CGK1 Ready, my brevet bike needed a wider cassette because I'm just not up to the task of pushing the stock gears up a 20 mile mountain pass. To make my singlespeed conversion, I needed similarly low gearing (65 inches) so I had to get a smaller chainring and larger freewheel. My other bikes are all built-to-spec from parts, so they were ready as soon as I was done putting them together.

Now that I have my new bike, I NEED a Garmin 500 or a Brooks Saddle for that bike.

The workhorse needs better weather so we can go on an adventure.

Maybe its good brakes, I need good brakes to stop my mass, that appears to be the only thing in common on my bikes.

When I first got started it was my cycle computer, it was pretty basic only tracked my MPH Miles travelled average speed and temp, but keeping that average speed up really help my super competative mind.

Now its just good tubes, I ride on a fixie with some pretty thin tires and I hate flats!

Velocity Deep V rear wheel put together by a top builder.

Water.

Water.

Water is overrated, haha. Carry a flask ;)

Velocity Deep V rear wheel put together by a top builder.

A rear Velocity Deep V put together by Me!:D

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/3665/newvy.jpg

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/8805/111010c.jpg

Air in the tires and a destination in mind.

Half-step plus bailout gearing, and top-notch brakes.

A rear Velocity Deep V put together by Me!:D

If you say so :)

Here's mine:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5249/5359002068_c4de9e4412.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/44332608@N03/5359002068/)
THIS IS A BIKE PATH (http://www.flickr.com/photos/44332608@N03/5359002068/) by 1nterceptor (http://www.flickr.com/people/44332608@N03/), on Flickr

189792
Water is overrated, haha. Carry a flask ;)

Wide saddle: Generally one category up from what would normally be on there - touring replaces racing, cruiser replaces touring, mega women's saddle replaces cruiser.

Wide handlebar: Most stock road bars are uncomfortable for me because they're too narrow, although I'm generally comfortable with most upright bars. Like the saddle this is due to my unusually large build.

Strong pedals: Cheap nylon bends under my feet and the bearings go quickly. Block pedals work well for my classic bikes.

Left toe clip, right optional :) Maybe I'll become a real cyclist one day and try clipless...

I will just say it, If I am not on the bike, than it is not clyde ready for me:)

If you say so :)

Here's mine:


Did you build it yourself or have it built?

Did you build it yourself or have it built?

Peter White Cycles out of New Hampshire, nobody local would guarantee their work.
This guy warranties his wheels for life. About 1,000 miles now, still true.

Peter White Cycles out of New Hampshire, nobody local would guarantee their work.
This guy warranties his wheels for life. About 1,000 miles now, still true.



Heard may good things about PW. I built my own Deep V, got 20,000 miles out of the wheel. One minor small true adjustment at 13,000 miles. I retired the wheel after 20,000because it developed a blister on the brake surface (wore thin and safety comes first) but it was still true!:thumb:

You ought to give building a try. I bought the rim on a clearance rack for $50 and an Ultegra hub on sale for $49, $20 for spokes........$119 and I'm set with a pretty nice wheel.

The wheel pic above, I rebuilt with a Deep V from Jensonusa ($56) and spokes($20), reused the hub. $75 and i'ts a new wheel!:thumb:

Pic below, rear wheel, I had and old CXP30 (Deep V clone) in the closet, and an old Ultegra 600 hub. I picked up some spokes for $15 DT Swiss) then built it up. Fifteen bucks and it's like a new wheel. Over 7000 miles now and still going strong. Really pays of when you can build them yourself.:D

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l267/gulpxtreme/SA%20River%20Trail%20Ride/bike.jpg

Call me crazy but I insist on air in my tires and handle bars.

I find that air in my handlebars makes the steering feel "heavy."

Seriously, there's nothing Clyde-specific about my bikes, other than the fact that the road bike is from the days when all OEM wheels had 36 spokes. But, like The Historian's bike, it has been tweaked over the years to adapt to my body's changing needs - most recently being a tall, 45-degree quill stem.

A "can do" attitude is the only must have.

Nothing. At 240 my only adjustment was eventually get rid of an upgrade to aluminium nipples on my spokes. Which was a shame, the purple and gold anodized nipples looked really nice.

Call me crazy but I insist on air in my tires and handle bars.

I also find a seat is also a nice option for those longer rides.

Had to change the wheels on my bike after I broke a bladed spoke on the lightweight wheels that came with it. Took my LBS 6 weeks to get a new one (from Spinergy). 32 nice round (cheap and available) spokes for me now.

Heard may good things about PW. I built my own Deep V, got 20,000 miles out of the wheel. One minor small true adjustment at 13,000 miles. I retired the wheel after 20,000because it developed a blister on the brake surface (wore thin and safety comes first) but it was still true!:thumb:

You ought to give building a try. I bought the rim on a clearance rack for $50 and an Ultegra hub on sale for $49, $20 for spokes........$119 and I'm set with a pretty nice wheel.

The wheel pic above, I rebuilt with a Deep V from Jensonusa ($56) and spokes($20), reused the hub. $75 and i'ts a new wheel!:thumb:

Pic below, rear wheel, I had and old CXP30 (Deep V clone) in the closet, and an old Ultegra 600 hub. I picked up some spokes for $15 DT Swiss) then built it up. Fifteen bucks and it's like a new wheel. Over 7000 miles now and still going strong. Really pays of when you can build them yourself.:D

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l267/gulpxtreme/SA%20River%20Trail%20Ride/bike.jpg

We'll see. Maybe when one of my wheels wear out :)

Selle San Marco Rolls saddle and reliable set of wheels..

Air in the tires and a destination in mind.

^^^^This, although a destination can often be a point of discovery along the way.

What is the one thing that you, as a clydesdale, must put on your bicycle to make it "clyde ready."

My must have is a two bolt, micro adjust seatpost. I have stripped out too many other seatposts of various design.

The tool I must have is a hex key set. It fixes 90% of my bike problems.

Tires, that hold air :D

This is why each bike has a spare tube on board and I have a pump that I can move around, debating about getting a couple of inflators though (one for the road bike, one for the SO's bike) so I can't forget the stupid pump.

Water.

That's me. No matter what, I don't ride unless the water bottle is full!
What's the old joke? "I wanted a screamer or a moaner....I got a sweater!"

Micro setpost, 2 bolt ( 5mm min) or campy, at least 2 water bottles at all times, pump, tools patch kit, tube(s) (and spare on long rides), Brooks, Selle San Marco Concor or Rolls sadde, any wheels I haven't built- get purple locktite dripped into the nipples, checked for roundness, trueness and tension, tires 23mm or larger, no aluminum frames- unless on bike with shocks, no carbon frames untilll they are sturdier and have better guarantees, am leaning to Titainium frames as I really like the ride and they are tougher than steel, although I have several steel frames I really like too, [I've broken two (abuse)], covered knees below 60 degrees, low gears ( am running 50X34 with 12-26 and am considering 11-28, have 2 bikes with "triples" for nasty hills and loads) a 32 spoke Mavic Open Pro or Module E with ferrules or a (heavier) Campy or Fulcrum rim, tires NOT inflated to full pressure, 5-20 lbs less, not hard-need give, good clean Chamoix short without lotsa bumps, pref real or ultra suede- both hard to find now

Air in the tires. A large frame so I can get proper extension for my long legs.

You ought to give building a try.

Do you need a lot of special tools to build your own wheels?

Do you need a lot of special tools to build your own wheels?

Nope, I got a cheapo stand(?). A spoke wrench ($5) dish tool ($20+, really gone up recently, got mine on sale for $12) and a flat head screw driver.

My stand could be better but it does the job. I've gotten 20,000 miles out of my wheels where as the "pros" I have paid to build my wheels have gotten as little as 40 miles and 2000 tops.:eek: with the good stuff.

You could use a tensionmeter too ($60) I asked my bud at the shop to order one for me but he said it was not cost everctive and that I could borrow his at any time. So I do the plucking technique then take it to him to verify the tension on his meter.:thumb:

Nope, I got a cheapo stand(?). A spoke wrench ($5) dish tool ($20+, really gone up recently, got mine on sale for $12) and a flat head screw driver.

My stand could be better but it does the job. I've gotten 20,000 miles out of my wheels where as the "pros" I have paid to build my wheels have gotten as little as 40 miles and 2000 tops.:eek: with the good stuff.

You could use a tensionmeter too ($60) I asked my bud at the shop to order one for me but he said it was not cost effective and that I could borrow his at any time. So I do the plucking technique then take it to him to verify the tension on his meter.:thumb:

previoulsy spent what, $70 for tools but look at what I save now!;)


This latest build rim ($56) spokes ($20) and reused Ultegra hub.....$76 for another 20,000 miles!:thumb:....
My $29 stand and a million dollar clyde wheel.:D
http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/3665/newvy.jpg

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/8805/111010c.jpg

Warm weather. Didn't want to buy any winter gear this year because I know it will not fit next year. :)