[noisebeam]

Sometimes I wish for a lower gear on my 2005 stock Poprad and wonder what the various options are from the lowest (and perhaps least benefit or change) to higher cost. What I mean is what are options without changing anything but cogs/chainrings and when do I need to change bottom bracket, front or rear derailers.

Stock is 38/46 chainring, 12-26 cogs. I'd like to keep in a double.

What are my options? I probably won't do this, but interested to know.

Al

[The BikeForums Team]

This is an archived thread, you can find the full version of this thread, with images, links and more content here.

Ready to buy? Check out these two online bike stores:
- http://www.nashbar.com (you can find the latest bike nashbar coupons in this thread)
- http://www.performancebike.com (you can find the latest performance bike coupons in this thread)

Cya on the forums,
- The BikeForums Team
- http://www.bikeforums.net

[jfmckenna]

I have a Shimano xt rear derailleur with a 12-32 cassette. I believe it will even go higher like a 34. This is 8 speed so I don't know of anything else but the cost was somewhere around $100. I am guessing that the 105 derailleur on the Poprad will only go up to 27 cog? So I think cheapest solution is to get a mountain cassette and derailleur.

[flythebike]

I run a compact drive crankset on my Poprad; with either 34 or 36 rings in the front and a 46 big ring, with a 12-27 that I bought aftermarket in the back. If I were you I'd buy a compact crank that is compatible with your stock bottom bracket, and sell the OEM crank on eBay. It is probably worth around $50. FSA makes a cross crank for like $125. Net cost $75 and that is cheeper then buying a new RD and cassette or at least about the same. Then you've got smaller steps between the gears then with MTB gearing and an upgrade to your crankset, which will make you go faster.

[55/Rad]

I run a standard 53/39 with a 12/27 rear and a Ultegra BB. Prior to that, I had a 38/28 front. All it took was the new crank and a chain.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=17848

55/Rad

[noisebeam]

Looks like a new crank and a 34 small chainring may work. Not a huge differnce (10%) but it would help.

I do like the somewhat closeness of the 38/46 right now, not a big leap.

The 38/46 works great for road (48 would be better) but for some of the steep and long sections of single tracks I ride I wish for a lower gear, I can get up them no problem with mtb gearing, but just not with 38-26. Thats one of the main reasons I've been turning around on singletrack, not the roughness, but the extended steeps (which are just too frequent to make shouldering worth it)

Anyway its not something I want to do right away, just thinking out loud. I much prefer and feel much stronger at high cadence (120) so I need to work on power and the ability to keep power going for longer dirt hills.

Al

[flythebike]

Anyway its not something I want to do right away, just thinking out loud. I much prefer and feel much stronger at high cadence (120) so I need to work on power and the ability to keep power going for longer dirt hills.

Al

I've done some power lactate threshold intervals lately and have noticed immediate results in improved climbing power. Just stay seated on your favorite climb, and turn the gears over slowly (60rpm), keep your heart rate down around 85% of max. The idea is to build strength in your legs so it should feel sort of like doing leg presses. No dashing allowed.