Bicycle Mechanics - Sturmey Archer Dynohub 'fit'

I have a 1971 Raleigh 'Sports' . Last year I bought a '72 Dynohub , and later on,an extra front rim to lace to it. Anyway, Ive been test fitting the dyno to the forks,(before the wheel gets built ), it fits, but the forks need to spread another 1/8" + compaired to the standard hub. I found a diagram of the Dyno and it seems my washers, etc are in the correct order, exception being it calls for a 1/16" washer, and I measure 1/8" on mine.

Maybe someone here runnin' an Ol' D Hub could send me a pic of washer/spacer/nut placement, or I could send a pic of my Dhub ??

I know this hub is heavy and not the best output, just tryin to upgrade with correct period pieces. ( a Superbe Sports ):lol:It will provide plenty of power for LED's, ill add a full wave rectifer.

Thanks for any info !!,dave

Just make it 1/8" narrower, like the diagram you have depicts.

Say, by replacing those 1/8" washers with 1/16" ones, just like... the diagram you have depicts.

I don't understand - you give the answer, then ask the question? o_O

Check your fork tips and hub locknuts. Sometime close to the years in question they changed the fork from a simple slot to a keyhole shape which fitted over a lip on the locknuts to hold the wheel in the event the axle nuts were loose. To remove the wheel, you spread the fork slightly to clear the lips of the hub. I don't know if this was for the USA only or if they adopted it worldwide.

If your hub has small lips near the ID it was made for the keyhole forks and it's possible they widened the axle width a hair to get better spring action out of the fork. If the hub has flat locknuts and your fork has the old 5/16" slot, change to washers so the hubs width gives you a nice slip fit in the fork.

Yes,to remove my orig wheel , the forks need to be spread also,...it was just extra hard on this Dyno. There are some slight diff between my hub and what is shown in the diagram,.....like an oil port,..mine doesnt have one,etc. And being this was bought used, who knows , but seems to put out power just fine. And being the hub is 1972, and the bike is 1971, I thought it should work fine

Maybe I can find someone local with one mounted so as to compare washers, thickness, placement, etc , but I can start by getting a thinner washer:)

Thanks





Kimmo, check your fork tips and hub locknuts. Sometime close to the years in question they changed the fork from a simple slot to a keyhole shape which fitted over a lip on the locknuts to hold the wheel in the event the axle nuts were loose. To remove the wheel, you spread the fork slightly to clear the lips of the hub. I don't know if this was for the USA only or if they adopted it worldwide.

If your hub has small lips near the ID it was made for the keyhole forks and it's possible they widened the axle width a hair to get better spring action out of the fork. If the hub has flat locknuts and your fork has the old 5/16" slot, change to washers so the hubs width gives you a nice slip fit in the fork.