Bicycle Mechanics - Building pit wheels with same dish as current *pics comming*
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02-22-11, 09:26 PM
I will try to make this understandable. I have a set of GL330 Mavic wheels with Shimano 600 hubs (i did not build, got 2nd hand). The freehub body holds 9 speed with a 1mm spacer on the hub.
The axle on the rear appears to have 2 spacers on the non drive side, i had a hard time getting my calipers in there, but it looks like 3mm (one looks thicker than the other, but 3mm would get 126 to 129, seems a bit off). I have been reading about adding spacers to 126mm to make 130. Anyhow, i am going to build up a 2nd set of wheels that i can use as pit wheels and that my wife can use on her 9spd bike.
I will look for some Shimano 600's so that I can dupicate this setup, but if i were to go with tiagra or 105's, will my wheel dishing be all screwed up so that i cannot easily swap wheels back and forth?
If i were to find some stock 130mm wheels and the RD still shifted OK, would it be safe to say that i could build up some standard 130mm hubs on my next set and all will be well?
I hope this made sense
CLIFF NOTES: Shimano 600 rear hubs have 2 spacers on non-drive side, want to build up a set of pit wheels, but am worried that dish/axle spacing may be screwy for shifting/brakes
02-22-11, 09:34 PM
02-22-11, 09:34 PM
I guess the other question is were there 130mm shimano 600's? My googling hasn't exactly turned much up
02-22-11, 10:07 PM
First off, you don't seem to understand what dish is. Dish is about having the rim centered between the locknut. There is no such thing as more dish or less dish - either the wheel is dished or not. All wheels properly built are dished. Dish is NOT about the difference in one side versus of the other. That's a description of offsets...
However what it appear to be that you reall want is:
1. Use one set of wheels...
2. Pop in another set WITHOUT having to make derailleur setup and shifting changes.
For freehubs that is accomplished by the following:
1. Making sure the distance from the center of the drive side flange to the end of the drive side locknut is the same. (Typical 8/9 speed is 48mm)
2. Making sure the distance from the center of the inner-most cog to the end of the drive side locknut is the same.
3. Making sure the distance from the center of the outer-most cog to the end of the drive side locknut is the same.
3. Making sure the same cogset speeds-wise is used.
02-23-11, 11:49 PM
I guess the other question is were there 130mm shimano 600's? My googling hasn't exactly turned much upYeah, 600-Ultegra FH-6402 was 8-spd with 130mm spacing. Though, they didn't get the cool conical locknut that Dura-ace had to help spread out 126mm rear-ends to 130mm.
Don't bother with measuring non-driveside stuff. I have 126mm and 130mm 8-spd cassette rear-wheels that shift identically to another 130mm 8-spd wheel with freewheel. Also some 126mm wheels with 7-spd freewheels with 8-spd spacing that shifts cleanly as well. Here's the bottom line:
1. make sure the c-t-c spacing on your cogs are exactly the same. I have a mix of Shimano and Campy 8-spd cassettes, Sachs 8-spd, Suntour 8-spd and Dura-ace 7-spd freewheels. All the cogs have been spaced to exactly 3.0mm c-t-c by grinding spacers and/or shimming with 0.1mm stock.
2. make sure the 1st cog is exactly the same distance away from the dropout face. Easiest to measure with the wheel mounted and I use calipers to measure. On my wheels, I use 3.5mm gap between cog and dropout since that's the smallest I can go before the chain rubs the dropout (for minimal dish). I adjust this gap by juggling axle-washers between the two sides. Sometimes, I have to custom mill a washer to just the right fractional-mm thickness.
So really, it doesn't matter what your dropout spacing is on your wheels or the number of speeds. Imagine the cogs floating in between your dropouts. As long as they are in the exact same location on all your wheels, they will shift identically.
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