Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Pedals........??????

I am nearing the day I will be paying off my layaway and getting my bike.... now to turn my attention to pedals. I have never ever ridden clipless. I am looking at the Shimano 105 (with the big keo style cleat), Keo, and Forte Team from performance. Which is gonna be better overall for a 220lb guy? Money is an obstacle for me, which is why I am limited to this group listed. Any input?
Beau

I'm not sure what type of pedals come standard on the bike you're buying (if it even comes with pedals). I use a nice platform pedal that allows me to use my everyday shoes. It worked fine for me last year (I did 10-20 mile rides with a long of 37) as I'm overwight and using this for weight loss. I'm thinking about getting some clipless this year however don't discount using something more basic to start off with.

There are plenty of people that do not use clipless pedals and ride much farther distances then I do so don't let my limited ride distance indicate that you need clipless for more serious riding.

If you're looking at 105s then it is probably safe to bet you are looking at a road or touring bike. 105s are very nice pedals, I don't think you'll go wrong with them. Another pedal to take a look at would be anything from Speedplay. I'm using Speedplay Frogs and just love them! I also have a bad knee so the float offered by a frog is vital for me. If you're running a touring rig, go for a dual sided mountain bike pedal. The cleats are recessed into your shoe so you can get around off the bike without having to do the duck walk.

Beau, it sounds like you've already decided on the clipless vs platform issue, and also which type of clipless system you want to use, namely the 3-bolt "delta" style Look-compatible kind.

If that's all true, then I would venture to guess that at this price point, you're not likely to find much of any discernable difference among the three you mentioned. I'm not sure, but I think they're pretty similar in terms of features (tension adjustability, degree of float - if any, etc.). If it were me, I'd choose based on convenience of purchase (local vs mail order), who I wanted to support (local vs mail order) and maybe warranty.

To answer your first question - None of them are better or worse for a 220 lb. guy like you. The only factor that may affect your choice is if you have had a history of knee or ankle problems. Your clydeness has no bearing on the decision of which pedal is best for you. Unless you are a weight weenie with a lot of money to burn and considering pedals with titanium spindles (they usually have a weight limit), which you are not.

If you've had knee problems, then choose a pedal that has a fairly wide range of "float" - anything over 9 degrees is considered a lot. If you've had substantial knee problems, some Speedplay models go as high as 20 degrees of float. With Look Keos you alter the amount of float by mounting different colored cleats on the bottom of your shoes - 9 degrees (red), 4.5 degrees (gray), and 0 degrees (black) for those who want to be totally "locked in".

If you've had ankle problems, then choose a pedal that has a lower "release tension". Some vendors, like Look, actually have this information handy as a listed specification for their products. A low number is going to be ~ 8Nm (that's Newton-meters) and will make for an easy release. While guys with big, strong, pedal strokes who race - like to be at ~15 Nm, which will require more force to release. Less expensive pedals (like Look Keo Easy) are hard-coded to the low end, to accommodate beginners and to keep costs down. More expensive pedals (like Look Keo Blades) are hard-coded to the high end, to accommodate experts and to keep the design simple and the weight down. Mid-priced ones (like Keo Max), are adjustable. I would strongly suggest that you get pedals that have adjustable release tension.

Another thing to consider - if you have big wide feet, as many of us do, then pay attention to the size of the platform on the pedal. A pedal with larger platform/surface area will give you more stability and less "foot fatigue" on longer rides. This is also dependent on the stiffness of the soles of the shoes that you eventually pick out.

The Fortes should be fine for you. They use Look cleats, but take note what type because some of the Fortes use the current Keo-style and some use the older Delta-style. Taking advantage of Look's cleats gives them the ability to vary float. I just looked at a couple on Performance's web site and it appears that most of the Forte road pedals have adjustable release tension too, even at the low end. And a couple of them are currently on sale at 50% off or better.

If you've had knee problems, then choose a pedal that has a fairly wide range of "float" - anything over 9 degrees is considered a lot. If you've had substantial knee problems, some Speedplay models go as high as 20 degrees of float.

I'm not convinced that more float is better. I used to think that I had knee problems and needed a pedal that had quite a bit of float. Turns out that what I really needed was a professional bike fit... and a different crank. After having the fit done and swapping to a "compact double" crank with a wide-range (11-28) cassette, my knees are perfectly happy with Shimano SPD pedals that have very little float. YMMV, of course.

To the OP: I would strongly suggest that, as a clipless newbie, you consider Shimano's SPD mountain bike pedal system as opposed to the SPD-SL road pedal system. Benefits of SPD include: adjustable release tension, the ability to pedal the bike when not clipped in, 2-sided pedal entry, SH-56 "multi release" cleats (useful if you can't get the standard cleats to release consistently), and the ability to walk around when you're off the bike without the tendency to twist an ankle. As an entry-level pedal, the $35 Shimano M520 is a great choice. Combine them with a shoe that has a stiff sole and you're ready to ride!

I've had the 105 SPD-SLs on my road bike for a while now and am a bit heavier than you. They are working great. I had some Look ARC compatibles for a while and they were terrible (much harder to exit and much rougher feel for almost the same money). That being said, there is a lot to be said for learning clipless with SPDs. There are road shoes that will take 2 bolt SPDs as well as 3 bolt SPD-SLs so you could start with SPDs and move to SPD-SLs without changing shoes. I've been purchasing my pedals at ProBikeKit. Here are the 105s:
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=P0050

And here are the 520s:
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=NP07525

And here are the 520s:
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=NP07525

If you're in the U.S., JensonUSA has a better price (http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/PE703A07-Shimano+Pd-M520+Pedal.aspx) on the M520. FYI, their back-order estimates on the M520 are pretty reliable, in my experience...

If you're in the U.S., JensonUSA has a better price (http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/PE703A07-Shimano+Pd-M520+Pedal.aspx) on the M520. FYI, their back-order estimates on the M520 are pretty reliable, in my experience...

Depends on their shipping cost. PBK ships free and without tax anywhere in the US so the total prices will probably be about the same (unless you're ordering a bunch of stuff from Jenson).

Depends on their shipping cost. PBK ships free and without tax anywhere in the US so the total prices will probably be about the same (unless you're ordering a bunch of stuff from Jenson).

Heck, last time I bought them, I walked into an LBS (3 mile drive) and picked them up for $50, no backorder, shipping etc and on the spot. I had them on the bike before Jenson or PBK could say "Booyah!":D

Somethings I don't mind paying a couple extra just to get them right then and there.:thumb:

Check your local Craigs list as well. I have found some good buys on quality pedals for desperate prices. KrankBrothers Egg Beaters Ti1s for $35.

Depends on their shipping cost.

I live in CA, so I'd pay shipping ($5.95) and tax. If I order from PBK, I'll get dinged by my credit card company for paying in a foreign currency. The end-price probably ends up being pretty close for me. For someone outside of CA, JensonUSA probably ends up being cheaper than PBK.


PBK ships free and without tax anywhere in the US so the total prices will probably be about the same (unless you're ordering a bunch of stuff from Jenson).

PBK is based in the United Kingdom. Why would I want to send my hard-earned money overseas, incur a currency conversion charge, have to wait weeks for stuff to arrive, and then deal with potential return/support/warranty headaches when I can order from a terrific American company and have my stuff in a day or two? Just to save $1-2? That seems pretty short-sighted...

I switched over my whole fleet of bikes to eggbeaters, I never paid more than $30 for any off craigslist. I put up a wanted ad and was flooded with responses, personally I prefer the chromoly C model.

I switched over my whole fleet of bikes to eggbeaters, I never paid more than $30 for any off craigslist. I put up a wanted ad and was flooded with responses, personally I prefer the chromoly C model.

I think a clipless newbie might have trouble with the Eggbeater, due to the release angle. Your options are 15- or 20-degrees, as I recall. The release angle for Shimano SPDs is something like 6- or 8-degrees, IIRC. Eggbeaters shed mud much better than SPDs, but that likely isn't a concern for someone who is currently considering SPD-SL road pedals...

I live in CA, so I'd pay shipping ($5.95) and tax. If I order from PBK, I'll get dinged by my credit card company for paying in a foreign currency. The end-price probably ends up being pretty close for me. For someone outside of CA, JensonUSA probably ends up being cheaper than PBK.



PBK is based in the United Kingdom. Why would I want to send my hard-earned money overseas, incur a currency conversion charge, have to wait weeks for stuff to arrive, and then deal with potential return/support/warranty headaches when I can order from a terrific American company and have my stuff in a day or two? Just to save $1-2? That seems pretty short-sighted...

Gee, I say the same thing about US vendors.... The international marketers like PBK weren't set up for the US, they were set up for folks like me, I live in Canada, and even though the CA$ is worth more then a US$ now, and probably will be for the foreseeable future, I still see items on US websites for $49, and if I walk into the local store the same item is $99 (they used to blame it on currency values, and people would buy it when a CA$ cost US$0.67), now it's just gouging. For an item like a pedal, they are all made in China, Taiwan or Malaysia, with the possible exception of Campy, but who knows how long they will continue to manufacture in Europe.


If they are shipping through the post office and I can get it cleared for $5 then it doesn't take a person with a doctorate in accounting to tell that it's going to work out lots cheaper.

I think a clipless newbie might have trouble with the Eggbeater, due to the release angle.
Word. My first attempt at clipless was with a pair of Candy pedals. (It's basically an eggbeater w/ a small platform.) Couldn't clip out to save my life. (Bad right knee.) They're sitting in a box in the garage somewhere. Like my Shimano pedals much better.

Best prices I've seen for Shimano pedals have consistently been at Ribble. Under $25 for M520s, and under $50 for 105s:

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/mtb-bmx-bike/Pedals-MTB-Shimano-Clipless-Spd-M520-Pedals/SHIMPEDM160
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/Road-Bike-Pedals-Shimano-Clipless-Spd-SL-5700-105-Pedals/SHIMPEDA845

And yeah, it seems like I post those links about once a week.

I'm guessing I may be in the minority--but the extra cash for Speedplay's are SO WORTH IT!

Best prices I've seen for Shimano pedals have consistently been at Ribble. Under $25 for M520s, and under $50 for 105s:

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/mtb-bmx-bike/Pedals-MTB-Shimano-Clipless-Spd-M520-Pedals/SHIMPEDM160
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/Road-Bike-Pedals-Shimano-Clipless-Spd-SL-5700-105-Pedals/SHIMPEDA845

Your numbers are a bit misleading... Shimano M520s at Ribble are $30.18, unless you order more than $56.46 worth of stuff and qualify for the additional discount. Shipping is $8.07 for a total of $38.25. If your bank charges you 3% for paying in a foreign currency, that's another $1.15 for a total of $39.40. Congrats: you saved $1.55 versus buying American!

I have used Dura Ace clipless and various SPD's. I prefer the SPD's just for the walk ability of them. I use them on my road bikes, touring bikes. I weigh about 230 lbs and haven't had a problem except the forte campus pedal that has a platform on one side and spd on the other, I have problems clipping in, it might be due to the large size of the pedal and I have problem finding the proper clipping point.

Best prices I've seen for Shimano pedals have consistently been at Ribble. Under $25 for M520s, and under $50 for 105s:

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/mtb-bmx-bike/Pedals-MTB-Shimano-Clipless-Spd-M520-Pedals/SHIMPEDM160
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/Road-Bike-Pedals-Shimano-Clipless-Spd-SL-5700-105-Pedals/SHIMPEDA845

And yeah, it seems like I post those links about once a week.
Yeah but they aren't American don't cha know. :lol:

I'm guessing I may be in the minority--but the extra cash for Speedplay's are SO WORTH IT!

I'm right there with you, B.Alive. I wouldn't trade my Frogs for anything! Heck, you can even rebuild them should a part fail.

Your numbers are a bit misleading... Shimano M520s at Ribble are $30.18, unless you order more than $56.46 worth of stuff and qualify for the additional discount. Shipping is $8.07 for a total of $38.25. If your bank charges you 3% for paying in a foreign currency, that's another $1.15 for a total of $39.40. Congrats: you saved $1.55 versus buying American!

1. Who orders online and ONLY gets a set of pedals? That $56 limit is real easy to reach.
2. Who knew Shimano made pedals in the US?

1. Who orders online and ONLY gets a set of pedals? That $56 limit is real easy to reach.
2. Who knew Shimano made pedals in the US?

1. Just trying to do an apples to apples comparison. Does that bother you?

2. I don't care where Shimano makes pedals. The question is: given that you've decided they're the best and want to buy them, should you spend your money at home? Or send your money abroad so you can save a buck fifty? The later seems pretty stupid to me, especially given the potential wait times, possible return problems, customs issues, not to mention the credit card fraud problems suffered by both Ribble (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/514152) and PBK (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/534112). If the price difference were bigger I might consider it, but for $1.50? No, thanks!

I'm guessing I may be in the minority--but the extra cash for Speedplay's are SO WORTH IT!

There are two of us now, stainless speedplay zeros ftw

I'm guessing I may be in the minority--but the extra cash for Speedplay's are SO WORTH IT!

Why? What makes them worth it?


I'm right there with you, B.Alive. I wouldn't trade my Frogs for anything! Heck, you can even rebuild them should a part fail.

You might be able to rebuild them, but at a fairly significant cost.

The threat of a potential lawsuit from their legal goon squad if I ever try to resell the pedals has put them on my list of component manufacturer's that I will never use or recommend to anyone.

1. Just trying to do an apples to apples comparison. Does that bother you?

A simple "apples to apples comparison" would not have included a snide comment like this:


Congrats: you saved $1.55 versus buying American!

And even though I pointed out that it's really easy to reach Ribble's $56 threshold to get their significantly cheaper prices, you persist with this irrelevancy:


2. I don't care where Shimano makes pedals. The question is: given that you've decided they're the best and want to buy them, should you spend your money at home? Or send your money abroad so you can save a buck fifty? The later seems pretty stupid to me, especially given the potential wait times, possible return problems, customs issues, not to mention the credit card fraud problems suffered by both Ribble (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/514152) and PBK (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/534112). If the price difference were bigger I might consider it, but for $1.50? No, thanks!

If you "don't care where Shimano makes pedals", why do you care where someone else buys them from? If it's so important to "spend your money at home", how can you not care where the pedals are made? After all, it "seems pretty stupid to [you]".

Huh?!?!

And for some reason I wasn't under the impression that credit card fraud was limited to PBK and Ribble.

So, the price difference IS bigger than $1.50, and your arguments for buying from a US supplier regardless of price are nonsensical.

I'm guessing I may be in the minority--but the extra cash for Speedplay's are SO WORTH IT!

What is your reasoning for this? I looked at some Speedplay Zero's just today. I just bought Shimano PD-5700's and am not sure I like them.

I picked up a set of Crank Bros at Performance on sale for $20 not long ago.

If you "don't care where Shimano makes pedals", why do you care where someone else buys them from? If it's so important to "spend your money at home", how can you not care where the pedals are made? After all, it "seems pretty stupid to [you]".

I try to buy the best product possible for my needs. If there are two equally good products, I'll buy the one made in the USA. If the best product is made in a foreign country, I'll try to buy it from an American vendor so that at least some of the money stays in this country. Pretty simple, huh?

BTW, if you can show me an American-made recessed-cleat clipless pedal that works as well as the Shimano M520 and costs less than 3X as much, I'd be happy to give them a try!


So, the price difference IS bigger than $1.50, and your arguments for buying from a US supplier regardless of price are nonsensical.

You're right! The difference is bigger!!! Ribble wants $30.18 for the pedals and $8.07 for shipping, for a total of $38.25. Amazon, it turns out, will sell you the same product for $33.00 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WYAENC/) with free shipping, so you're actually spending $5.25 more at Ribble! Even if I grant you the $24.15 discount price at Ribble, their $8.07 minimum shipping cost makes the total price $32.22...

Sadly, I don't think you've managed to refute any of the disadvantages associated with buying overseas: increased ship times, difficulty of returning merchandise, difficulty of obtaining support from the merchant, possibility of being hit with customs charges, numerous problems with credit card fraud attributed to U.K. vendors (ProBikeKit, Ribble, Wiggle, Total Cycling, et. al.) at various times over the last 1-2 years, etc.

What is your reasoning for this? I looked at some Speedplay Zero's just today. I just bought Shimano PD-5700's and am not sure I like them.

The big advantage of Speedplay, in my mind, is the two-sided entry. With Look-style pedals (including the Shimano SPD-SL designs), you often need to rotate the pedal into the proper position before you can clip-in. Speedplay bills their system as "step and go". My friends with Speedplays seem to clip-in quite easily, though the pedals aren't completely foolproof.

Speedplays also offer quite a bit of float compared to Shimano road pedals, though this comes at the cost of having to rotate your heel more before they release. The Zeros are especially nice because they have adjustable float and, IIRC, release angle. There's also no spring tension constantly trying to recenter the pedal. Dunno if the PD-5700s have that but some of the older Look pedals did and it could get to be annoying.

dhoff asks: 'Why? What makes them worth it?'


What is your reasoning for this? I looked at some Speedplay Zero's just today. I just bought Shimano PD-5700's and am not sure I like them.

They are easy to get into, easy to get out, they have a large platform which reduces hot-spot potential (comes from the cleat,not the actual pedal,) double side clip in ability, the zero's have adjustable float (my light actions do not,) the float makes life easier on the knees (for me,) greater cornering clearances (not that it matters for my style of riding, but it's one of the pluses,) and are available in road and off road options (Frogs for off road.)

Those are my reasons. Your preference may differ, but I just wanted to give the OP another option to think about!

though this comes at the cost of having to rotate your heel more before they release.

This is where I am having some troubles with my PD-5700's and R540's. My left foot I have no trouble at all, my right foot I have a lot of trouble rotating my foot to get out. I also have trouble with my right foot heel hitting my chainstay if I get lazy and don't watch it.


They are easy to get into, easy to get out, they have a large platform which reduces hot-spot potential (comes from the cleat,not the actual pedal,) double side clip in ability, the zero's have adjustable float (my light actions do not,) the float makes life easier on the knees (for me,) greater cornering clearances (not that it matters for my style of riding, but it's one of the pluses,) and are available in road and off road options (Frogs for off road.)

Those are my reasons. Your preference may differ, but I just wanted to give the OP another option to think about!

I started with the clipless pedals late in the year last year on my MTB and I did have some troubles with my knees and even notice it some on my new road bike on the trainer. The bike shop I stopped at today told me if I buy the Speed Play Zero Stainless?? from them they would set them up with my on my bike for free. Just bring my bike and shoes and they would put me on a trainer and make the necessary adjustments.

This is where I am having some troubles with my PD-5700's and R540's. My left foot I have no trouble at all, my right foot I have a lot of trouble rotating my foot to get out. I also have trouble with my right foot heel hitting my chainstay if I get lazy and don't watch it.



I started with the clipless pedals late in the year last year on my MTB and I did have some troubles with my knees and even notice it some on my new road bike on the trainer. The bike shop I stopped at today told me if I buy the Speed Play Zero Stainless?? from them they would set them up with my on my bike for free. Just bring my bike and shoes and they would put me on a trainer and make the necessary adjustments.

The float is very nice. I haven't tried other pedals, so my opinion may be a bit biased.

There's not a lot of "effort" into getting a release with Speedplay. You rotate your foot out (a fair amount of distance, but nothing I've ever thought painful) and POP! I've never had a problem unclipping; I have unclipped the opposite foot of the direction I leaned resulting in a fall, but that was user error.

This is where I am having some troubles with my PD-5700's and R540's. My left foot I have no trouble at all, my right foot I have a lot of trouble rotating my foot to get out. I also have trouble with my right foot heel hitting my chainstay if I get lazy and don't watch it.

So? While ride, I always unclip my left foot. My right foot clips in and home and usually doesn't unclip until I return. As a result, I'm much better at clipping and unclipping with my left foot. This has only been a problem for me on a few super-narrow single-track trails where obstacles prevented me from being able to put my foot down.

There are a couple of things you can do to make unclipping easier:

1) With SPD pedals, which I use on both road and mountain bikes, you can adjust the release tension of the right pedal or consider using the SH-56 multi-release cleat on your right shoe

2) You can rotate the cleat on the bottom of your shoe, so that you have to twist your heel a bit less before the pedal starts to release

With SPD pedals, you can also rotate your heel inward to get the pedal to release. For me, inward rotation is quite a bit easier than outward rotation, especially for my right foot. Be Careful! If you rotate your foot inward at the wrong point during the pedal stroke, you'll send your heel into the spokes of the rear wheel with potentially disastrous results! I tend to release at the top of the pedal stroke, and I point my toe down as I'm doing it to make contact with the rear wheel less likely.

That said, the Zeros are a nice pedal system. A bit difficult to walk it, it seems, but they have a lot of nice features. Not sure what you gain by buying the Stainless over the Chrome-Moly. Neither pedal has a weight limit, so I think the $50 more expensive Stainless pedal buys you a 10g lighter pedal and some different color choices...

So? While ride, I always unclip my left foot. My right foot clips in and home and usually doesn't unclip until I return. As a result, I'm much better at clipping and unclipping with my left foot. This has only been a problem for me on a few super-narrow single-track trails where obstacles prevented me from being able to put my foot down.

There are a couple of things you can do to make unclipping easier:

1) With SPD pedals, which I use on both road and mountain bikes, you can adjust the release tension of the right pedal or consider using the SH-56 multi-release cleat on your right shoe

2) You can rotate the cleat on the bottom of your shoe, so that you have to twist your heel a bit less before the pedal starts to release

With SPD pedals, you can also rotate your heel inward to get the pedal to release. For me, inward rotation is quite a bit easier than outward rotation, especially for my right foot. Be Careful! If you rotate your foot inward at the wrong point during the pedal stroke, you'll send your heel into the spokes of the rear wheel with potentially disastrous results! I tend to release at the top of the pedal stroke, and I point my toe down as I'm doing it to make contact with the rear wheel less likely.

That said, the Zeros are a nice pedal system. A bit difficult to walk it, it seems, but they have a lot of nice features. Not sure what you gain by buying the Stainless over the Chrome-Moly. Neither pedal has a weight limit, so I think the $50 more expensive Stainless pedal buys you a 10g lighter pedal and some different color choices...

I have them set up to release at the easiest point. There is just something about my right foot and twisting out. I did try setting them up to twist in and that is much easier for the right side. But as you said it is dangerous.

I could try the SH-56 clips and see if that helps at all. I notice they are only two bolt and my shoes are three. They are kind of spendy though just to try.

I would be happy with the Chrome Malloy pedals. The LBS I was at did not have the Chrome Malloy in stock and was taking $25.00 of of the Stainless Steel. He can order the Chrome Malloy for me if I wish. I am to bring my bike and shoes up and he will set them up for with my bike on a trainer.

I could try the SH-56 clips and see if that helps at all. I notice they are only two bolt and my shoes are three. They are kind of spendy though just to try.

My bad: the SH-56 cleats only work with 2-bolt SPD mountain bike pedals. You've got SPD-SL road pedals, so the SH-56 won't work with your current pedals.

Pardon my ignorance on the matter, but why is so much float an advantage?

I don't have any knee issues, but it seems that a properly adjusted cleat (fore/aft and yaw) allows the knee to track properly and that excessive float would only introduce knee instability, possible additional lateral forces on the knee, and create create greater lateral stress on the knee every time you unclip. Is there some reason for the need to adjust the angle of your foot while in the saddle? Every time I hear about someone needing lots of float I get this mental picture that they walk like they're doing the hokie-pokie. Speedplay float lovers- help me understand.

Pardon my ignorance on the matter, but why is so much float an advantage?

I don't have any knee issues, but it seems that a properly adjusted cleat (fore/aft and yaw) allows the knee to track properly and that excessive float would only introduce knee instability, possible additional lateral forces on the knee, and create create greater lateral stress on the knee every time you unclip. Is there some reason for the need to adjust the angle of your foot while in the saddle? Every time I hear about someone needing lots of float I get this mental picture that they walk like they're doing the hokie-pokie. Speedplay float lovers- help me understand.

There's no stress on the knee when you unclip. Doesn't take a lot of force.

As far as the adjustment of the cleat vs the free float of the Speedplay, I can only give you my opinion and what I like about them. I have a partially torn ACL and MCL in my left knee. Keeping the same track through a pedal stroke causes pain; thus, having the ability for my foot to move slightly is a major advantage to my comfort.

I also pronate slightly when I walk (roll my foot inward.) This isn't a major problem, but my knees actually rotate inward (slightly) on every pedal stroke. Again, the Speedplay float helps prevent discomfort.

These are my reasons. I don't hokie-pokie when I walk or run. But my legs do move naturally.

There's no stress on the knee when you unclip. Doesn't take a lot of force.

As far as the adjustment of the cleat vs the free float of the Speedplay, I can only give you my opinion and what I like about them. I have a partially torn ACL and MCL in my left knee. Keeping the same track through a pedal stroke causes pain; thus, having the ability for my foot to move slightly is a major advantage to my comfort.

I also pronate slightly when I walk (roll my foot inward.) This isn't a major problem, but my knees actually rotate inward (slightly) on every pedal stroke. Again, the Speedplay float helps prevent discomfort.

These are my reasons. I don't hokie-pokie when I walk or run. But my legs do move naturally.


Thanks for the great explanation. I'm far from a kinesiologist, and I didn't have any Speedplay dealers anywhere close to me when I was pedal shopping,(well, I think there finally is one in town, but I don't like dealing with that shop because they're also the regional mega-outdoors sporting goods mart) so they're a bit of a strange animal to me.

Thanks for the great explanation. I'm far from a kinesiologist, and I didn't have any Speedplay dealers anywhere close to me when I was pedal shopping,(well, I think there finally is one in town, but I don't like dealing with that shop because they're also the regional mega-outdoors sporting goods mart) so they're a bit of a strange animal to me.

I may have bit into the "pitch" a little from my LBS :-) But I do have to say I'd buy them again in a heartbeat. In fact, I'm looking at getting a mountain bike and will probably put the frogs on it.

You might be able to rebuild them, but at a fairly significant cost.

The threat of a potential lawsuit from their legal goon squad if I ever try to resell the pedals has put them on my list of component manufacturer's that I will never use or recommend to anyone.

The cost of rebuilding them is still less than a new set, though I will agree that the rebuild kit is a bit more expensive than I would care for (Frogs)

I'm curious about the threat of a lawsuit for reselling your used pedals. I would have told them to go pound sand, they can't keep you from selling your personal property.