Bicycle Mechanics - Chainring-Spider Arm Gap

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View Full Version : Chainring-Spider Arm Gap


nameless
03-06-11, 10:57 AM
I've searched the forums and found some vaguely relevant answers but nothing definitive.

I recently added a Rohloff to my Surly 1x1 singlespeed and in doing so had to remove my bash guard, change chainrings and move the new chainring from inside the spider arms to the outside (where the bash guard previously lived) in order to nail down a proper chainline.

Where I had a flush chainring-spider arm mating on the inside of the arms, by moving the chainring to the outside I no longer have flush contact between any of the four mounts (see photo).

I'm also using stainless steel chainring bolts with Loctite.

My question is:

With plans of long-distance, off-road loaded touring, will mounting the chainring this way cause me problems? If so, any suggestions on how to fix it?

Thanks!

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5251/5503161766_b8b796061a.jpg


fietsbob
03-06-11, 11:14 AM
Ignore it. it's just aesthetics, mechanically just fine.

or get a thicker spacer, put a chainring guard on again further outside the outside chainring

chainring guard is thinner than a Bash Guard .. if you have arm clearance issues.

NB 15T cog the 34t chainring is a bit small for gear loads inside the hub ,
the 36 just fits the 2,4x requirement. for 16 it's a 38t
[it's in the Owners Manual]

JohnDThompson
03-06-11, 11:19 AM
No problems. The chainring bolts carry the load.


nameless
03-06-11, 12:57 PM
Thanks. With a couple spare chainring bolts I should be set.



NB 15T cog the 34t chainring is a bit small for gear loads inside the hub ,
the 36 just fits the 2,4x requirement. for 16 it's a 38t
[it's in the Owners Manual]

I deliberated over this for quite awhile but when I picked up the hub from Neil at The Cycle Monkey he said between the application of the hub and my riding style I wouldn't have much to worry about. He's as close as it gets to an authority on Rohloff, so I feel alright with the 34-16. Thanks though.