Mountain Biking - RS SID Race on Specialized HR Pro Disc?

I just bought a Specialized HR Pro Disc the other day and have decided that I don't care for the fork that came on it.. I'm a very light rider (130 lbs) and don't do much hardcore offroad riding. The bike comes with a Marzocchi MZ Comp 100mm fork that weighs 5.2 lbs. The SID Race weighs 2.87, which is a HUGE weight savings over the Marzocchi. I don't feel like I need 100 mm of travel and would like to shave some weight off the bike. Would stepping down from 100mm of travel to 80mm of travel effect the geometry negatively in any way? If so, would it be a big problem or something I could deal with? I do also realize that I would be moving from an elastomer fork to an air fork. I do mostly commuting/urban riding. Would an air fork offer any benefits for this type of riding?

I just bought a Specialized HR Pro Disc the other day and have decided that I don't care for the fork that came on it.. I'm a very light rider (130 lbs) and don't do much hardcore offroad riding. The bike comes with a Marzocchi MZ Comp 100mm fork that weighs 5.2 lbs. The SID Race weighs 2.87, which is a HUGE weight savings over the Marzocchi. I don't feel like I need 100 mm of travel and would like to shave some weight off the bike. Would stepping down from 100mm of travel to 80mm of travel effect the geometry negatively in any way? If so, would it be a big problem or something I could deal with? I do also realize that I would be moving from an elastomer fork to an air fork. I do mostly commuting/urban riding. Would an air fork offer any benefits for this type of riding?

Upgrading to an SID would be complete over kill for your purposes. Heck the Hard Rock is overkill for your purposes. Can you return it and get a road bike? You seem like a road bike kinda guy.

If you can't, don't upgrade it as you wouldn't see a performance boost anyways because you wouldn't be riding it in a way that would warrant a performance boost. Also, Does weight really matter if you're not racing?

Okay, are you gonna put a race class fork on your lower class bike? It's so overkill for your purposes. Sids are meant to go off road. I wouldn't pay a friking huge amount of money to make my bike go faster on the road! Return the dang bike and get a CX bike if you want to ride on the road with an OFF ROAD CROSS COUNTRY RACE CLASS fork.

Sorry, I just had to rant.

Okay, are you gonna put a race class fork on your lower class bike? It's so overkill for your purposes. Sids are meant to go off road. I wouldn't pay a friking huge amount of money to make my bike go faster on the road! Return the dang bike and get a CX bike if you want to ride on the road with an OFF ROAD CROSS COUNTRY RACE CLASS fork.

Sorry, I just had to rant.Settle down Beavis... I think he gets it.:D

Settle down Beavis... I think he gets it.:D
woot my post was useful

Someone award me one of those technologically advanced cookies. :(

But seriously, if you want to buy the SID (and send it to me) by all means go ahead.

A road bike would suit you well (he repeats)

Actually yeah... I can't stand having a heavy bike especially since my area is insanely hilly. Honestly, I wish there was a decent light air fork out there with about 60-80mm of travel that didn't cost $500. I'm extremely lacking in the muscle department and picking up my bike in its current state to carry up stairs and such is almost unbearable. The bike probably weighs 30+ lbs as-is. I'd like to shave about 5lbs off that if at all possible. I also don't care for a road bike since that limits me to exclusively on-road riding. We have trails and such around here that I ride on my days off and getting a road bike would nix that idea entirely. Plus, I'm ridiculously flat-prone from picking up random crap on our roads around here (nails, glass, staples, etc). Previously when I commuted, I averaged at worst two flats a week, 4 a month at best. At any rate, I understand that the SID is probably more fork than I need, but I can't find anything else under 3.5 lbs that is any cheaper.

Actually yeah... I can't stand having a heavy bike especially since my area is insanely hilly. Honestly, I wish there was a decent light air fork out there with about 60-80mm of travel that didn't cost $500. I'm extremely lacking in the muscle department and picking up my bike in its current state to carry up stairs and such is almost unbearable. The bike probably weighs 30+ lbs as-is. I'd like to shave about 5lbs off that if at all possible. I also don't care for a road bike since that limits me to exclusively on-road riding. We have trails and such around here that I ride on my days off and getting a road bike would nix that idea entirely. Plus, I'm ridiculously flat-prone from picking up random crap on our roads around here (nails, glass, staples, etc). Previously when I commuted, I averaged at worst two flats a week, 4 a month at best. At any rate, I understand that the SID is probably more fork than I need, but I can't find anything else under 3.5 lbs that is any cheaper.
Then get a hybrid bike. Gravel Paths do well when riding a hybrid. Why do you need 60-80mm of travel for an urban style of riding? You'd need 10-30mm maximum.

Here's one that would suit you nicely:


Here you are http://www.trekbikes.com/bikes/2004/citybike/7500.jsp

EDIT: it will work, but that's like asking if a ferrari engine will work in a civic's body. it will, but it's not practical. If you'd like (and it would cost around the same or a little less), you can just change your fork to a rigid fork and that will save you more then 5 lbs. or so. You'd still do fine on gravel paths and when riding on the road it would be even better (No waste energy going into a front suspension system).

how about....a rigid fork?

You can still ride the trails with a rigid and it would signifigantly decrease weight and increase efficiency.

how about....a rigid fork?

You can still ride the trails with a rigid and it would signifigantly decrease weight and increase efficiency.


Lol, I just edited my post with that.

High fives are in order!

Again, my question isn't SHOULD I... The issue is that Specialized claims it's designed for a 100mm travel fork... I don't want that much travel. Will swapping it out with a lower travel fork cause any problems? money isn't an issue, I could give a flip less about spending $450 on a new fork. The question is will it work? I basically want a fork that I can beat the everloving crap out of on the road and a few times a month take off road and beat the crap out of it there too. The Manitou Black was another fork I was looking at... it clocks in @ 3.4 lbs, which isn't too bad and probably not noticeable over the 2.87 lbs

and as far as that Trek goes, I looked at it, but it's already more expensive than the bike I bought and wouldn't handle the place I go to ride off-road... Plus it has the GPS metro which weighs more than the fork I have now.

Swiff there's urban and then there's URBAN. Urban riding - (the more common definition on this forum) is akin to Freeriding

Again, my question isn't SHOULD I... The issue is that Specialized claims it's designed for a 100mm travel fork... I don't want that much travel. Will swapping it out with a lower travel fork cause any problems? money isn't an issue, I could give a flip less about spending $450 on a new fork. The question is will it work? I basically want a fork that I can beat the everloving crap out of on the road and a few times a month take off road and beat the crap out of it there too. The Manitou Black was another fork I was looking at... it clocks in @ 3.4 lbs, which isn't too bad and probably not noticeable over the 2.87 lbs

and as far as that Trek goes, I looked at it, but it's already more expensive than the bike I bought and wouldn't handle the place I go to ride off-road... Plus it has the GPS metro which weighs more than the fork I have now.

I know your question is Should you, but it really shouldn't be your question. The fork weighs more, but the entire bike does not (I think).

I don't really see how spending $450 on just a fork is wise for you, seeing as it costs almost the same as your bike. You can add $200 or so if money isn't an issue and have 2 bikes then. One for your gravel paths and then one for your urban riding.

I didnt' know that Raiyn. Thanks. But is that what he is referring to? Sounds like he means sidewalks and such?

I didnt' know that Raiyn. Thanks. But is that what he is referring to? Sounds like he means sidewalks and such?

Urban riding:

http://www.redbullbikebattle.com/rotatinghomeimages/steidly.gif

Lol. You really shouldn't be asking us this question if you want a light fork on such a good bike. I think that it's not your bike. YOU need to tone up, buddy. You can dish out that much money on your fork, that's your deal. Trust me, don't be a whiner. Get stronger and ride. It's not worth using a sid for simple deal. If you wanna bash it out, get a freeride. Sids aren't mean to be abused.

What you seem to be saying

Im gonna ride lightly
Im gonna bash the living crap out of it
Im gonna bash the living crap out of it off road.

They do not mix. Light won't handle that. Price is gonna be up. It won't harm your hardrock to have lower travel (correct me if Im wrong), but it will if it goes above the suggested travel. You need a freeride fork. And those are not light. You won't get something that is really light and strong.

Go out and ride. You'll be stronger soon. Don't whine about your bike.

Also, how old are you. I'm as weak as can be and I carry my 37 lb kona scrap up and down stairs! What the heck is going on? Tell us what you want, clearly, tell us what you are. Weak, strong?

I know your question is Should you, but it really shouldn't be your question. The fork weighs more, but the entire bike does not (I think).

I don't really see how spending $450 on just a fork is wise for you, seeing as it costs almost the same as your bike. You can add $200 or so if money isn't an issue and have 2 bikes then. One for your gravel paths and then one for your urban riding.

I didnt' know that Raiyn. Thanks. But is that what he is referring to? Sounds like he means sidewalks and such?

Both, actually... I commute to and from work, so that would be roads/sidewalk/etc... and when I'm just out riding I do more along the lines of the 2nd definition (curbs, stairs, obstacles). The current fork is a Marzocchi MZ Comp, which doesn't ride very bad, but the bike is heavier than I would like. I figured the fork being stupidly heavy would be the first place to shave weight. The wheels are ok, and upgrading them won't make much difference in weight from what I can tell. I've already traded out to a folding-bead tire (they did it for free). Also, I'm a light rider in that I weigh between 120-130 lbs, not that I ride lightly. I'd say a SID could handle ME abusing it since I'll never weigh much more than 130-135.

Also, how old are you. I'm as weak as can be and I carry my 37 lb kona scrap up and down stairs! What the heck is going on? Tell us what you want, clearly, tell us what you are. Weak, strong?

I'm 25, 5'7, weigh 130, and I'd consider myself pretty weak up top. My legs are reasonably strong, but I have insanely weak arms (to the point that lifting anything over 40 lbs makes my arms hurt for a day or two)

Hmm...try going on monkey bars when you find them, seeing as you're not to heavy and I could lift you. Then, work on doing 50 push ups a day (not in a single try). Then go up to 200, then 400. At one point, in grade 4, I was able to do 200 push ups in about 4 minutes. It was tiring.

pushups or pullups? I can't even do a single pull-up as it is... pushups, I've never bothered trying. I'd rather just compensate by having a lighter bike than by actually doing pushups or pullups to compensate my lack of strength. It's easier that way. I just weighed my bike and it weighs in @ 30 lbs right now. I'd like to get down to 26 or 27 lbs if at all possible. I figured the fork would be a good place to start and the SID was the lightest I could find.

It's the rider, not the bike, in this case.

pushups or pullups? I can't even do a single pull-up as it is... pushups, I've never bothered trying. I'd rather just compensate by having a lighter bike than by actually doing pushups or pullups to compensate my lack of strength. It's easier that way. I just weighed my bike and it weighs in @ 30 lbs right now. I'd like to get down to 26 or 27 lbs if at all possible. I figured the fork would be a good place to start and the SID was the lightest I could find.


Don't bother with the push ups or pull ups stuff unless you want to actually work out. hooligan's just miffed at what you're going to be doing with the fork.

but working out is a good idea, just not entirely relevant to this thread.
How about buying another bike then for $450, one without a suspension fork on it. http://www2.trekbikes.com/Bikes/City_Bike_Path/Hybrid/FX/7200_FX/index.php
http://www2.trekbikes.com/Bikes/City_Bike_Path/Hybrid/FX/7300_FX/index.php

Those bikes will weigh less than your Hard Rock even with the SID and are both less then $450.

"Is a lighter bike the fountain of youth? The September 2003 Bicycling Magazine has a chart that makes it easy to quantify the performance gains from light weight. James C. Martin, Ph.D., assistant professor in the department of exercise and sport science at the University of Utah provided some interesting calculations that make the cost of weight very clear.

He posited a 5 kilometer, 7% grade. That's a good, stiff climb. The legendary Stelvio climb averages 7.5%. He further assumed a rider who can kick out 250 watts. A 160 pound rider will take 19 minutes and 21 seconds to get up the hill. Every 5 pounds added make the trip up the hill take 30 seconds longer.

That means each added pound adds 6 seconds to the time it takes to get up this hill. That is only 6 seconds on a stiff, 20 minute climb."

And that's for a road bike, it will make even less difference on an MTB.

Link: http://www.smartcycles.com/bike_weight.htm

And also some info from our very own bikeforums discussing weight

http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-9079

I'm actually aware that it won't make THAT much of a difference in climbs and such, but I've generally found lighter bikes more maneuverable and easier to pick up, throw on my shoulder and carry up a couple of flights of stairs. I know this sounds crazy, but I like the frame on that bike pretty well (enough to deal with it for a year or so) and my plan is to upgrade most of the components on it and then eventually just buy a nicer frame and swap the components. Yes, it would be cheaper to just save the required amount of money and buy a whole new bike, but that's no fun.

As a side note, I found an 04 Psylo XC which has adjustable travel and only weighs 4.28 lbs. I can get it for under $300, so I may go that route. Shaving a pound off and adding more adjustability for $300 doesn't sound too bad. Also there's the Pilot SL, which is 4.34 lbs and has a handlebar mounted remote lockout lever. It's only $239 and seems to be more or less what I'm looking for in a fork. I just wonder why full-air forks are so insanely expensive in comparison to elastomer forks.... more expensive to make them? Most lighter riders I've talked to around here much prefer air forks over elastomer, but I guess everyone has their preferences.

get a rigid fork. you can shave insane amounts of weight, often for less then $100.

As a side note, I found an 04 Psylo XC which has adjustable travel and only weighs 4.28 lbs. I can get it for under $300, so I may go that route. Shaving a pound off and adding more adjustability for $300 doesn't sound too bad. Also there's the Pilot SL, which is 4.34 lbs and has a handlebar mounted remote lockout lever. It's only $239 and seems to be more or less what I'm looking for in a fork. I just wonder why full-air forks are so insanely expensive in comparison to elastomer forks.... more expensive to make them? Most lighter riders I've talked to around here much prefer air forks over elastomer, but I guess everyone has their preferences.

The Pilot and your marzocchi are about equal in terms of performance. How often do you actually lift your bike up flights of stairs and do you really think 2 lbs. will make it that much easier?

"The folks who get hung up by saving a gram here and there have forgotten how bikes work, and what bikes are for.

How bikes work: The bikes that have been used for attempts on the "one hour" record are heavier than the bikes used in the mountain stages of the TdF. Why? After a bike reaches cruising speed, the weight of the non-moving parts are irrelevant to speed. The weight of moving parts, such as rims, can actually benefit someone going a fast, and steady speed, as a heavy rim provides a "fly wheel" effect. The bikes that have been used to go faster than 150 mph behind pace cars weighed well over thirty pounds.

What bikes are for: except for the guys who get paid to race up mountains in the TdF, most of us are riding for fun, and for relaxation. A twenty-five pound bike that is "bullet proof", and never leaves its rider stranded by the side of the road is more relaxing and enjoyable to ride than a 17 pound Prima Dona that acts up if the wheels have not been trued this week, and pops spokes like a popcorn maker pops corn.

The obsession with "weight" is driven by marketing. "My bars are lighter than your bars" A recall because some folks were hurt when the ultra-light bars failed? Well, what's a broken collarbone between friends?

The "real" Schwinn company (the one that made bikes in Chicago from 1895 to 1980) spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to balance performance, reliability, and safety. The Schwinn Paramount made around 1970 weighed about 26 pounds in a average size. That was a weight that that enabled a bike to performed at a very high level, and to do so reliably at age one, age five, and age twenty.

How many of the 17 pound wonder bikes are likely to outlast and outperform the classic Paramounts when they have had twenty years of hard use? "
From somewhere else on the forums.

Also, have adjusting travel shouldn't really matter that much because it sounds like your riding would only require a couple of mm anyways. The remote lockout feature might be nice if you travel long distances or climbs but since you're a light rider it wouldn't make much of a difference.

The answer to your questions is yes, it will improve performance, yes you can do it and yes, it will make your bike lighter. But my question to you is "what's the point?"

If you have a lot of money to blow, than go ahead but it's just not practical.

Also, I'm a light rider in that I weigh between 120-130 lbs, not that I ride lightly. I'd say a SID could handle ME abusing it since I'll never weigh much more than 130-135.

The SID would probably explode on the first staircase you tried. Its just not meant for any real abuse. Most pro riders that run them (they are typically in your weight range or a little more) rebuild them after every race. One of our customers races for Santa Cruz Syndicate (Mark Hendershot) and after one of his races he had gone through 3 SID forks.

I'd do that if I was willing to give up front suspension. However, I'm not... I'd just like a lighter, more adjustable fork. I like the SID because it's air, but the Psylo XC is $200 cheaper and has similar features, but weighs a little more. Ditto the Pilot SL. Anyone ridden either of these forks?

ok look. we know you are one of those guys that is obsessed with ounces and 'shaving weight off your bike'. something that you need to realize is that you need to get in shape. that will make more difference that a completely new lightweight bike would. you could spend all the money in your parents' savings account and the only improvement you'll notice is the ability to carry your bike up stairs. you may have the coolest bike on the block, but once your friends realize that you can't ride at all, you won't be cool anymore. stop worrying about weight, be grateful that you have a better bike than you need already, and just get out there and have fun.

::rant::

You're worried about the weight of the bike, so you wanna spend $500 on a new fork?
Just to carry it up stairs? Ill give you a break since you from Tennesee and all, but really.....how silly is that. You're worried about 2lbs for carrying a bike up stairs? Instead of blowing $500 on something, go out.....and quit being so damn lazy. If you cant lift a 30lb bike up stairs, there is something wrong with you.

Elastomer forks = crap
Only good air fork = Fox
If I ever bought a SID, id be afraid to ride it. Ride the bike for what it is.....dont blow all that cash on something you dont need yet. If I dont make much sense...im on 3 hours sleep. I might make more sense tomorrow.

::rant over::

Actually, from what people have been saying about the SID, it's probably not going to hold up as well as a cheaper fork, so that's out. Needless to say, I think I've decided on something (anything) with a lockout so i can lock it out when I climb hills and such. I also figure that when I DO get a different fork, I might as well get a lighter one. I was looking at my fork today and being that it's ridiculously dusty, I can see dust rings from how far the fork has travelled up and down. The cleanest area of the fork is the first 30-40mm of travel and the last dust ring I see (assuming that's as far as the fork has ever travelled) still leaves 20-25mm of travel unused. So being such a ridiculously light rider, even launching off stairs I can't use all 100mm of travel, so why have it? As such, I was looking for an 80mm fork that was lighter than the one I have, so why not get the best I can afford? I'm not a thrifty person and I'm the type that if I buy something new, it's going to be an upgrade from what I had before and is going to be the absolute most I can afford to spend on that particular thing. Needless to say, at this point I want an 80mm fork (air or elastomer) with lockout (remote if possible), hence my mention of the Pilot SL with PopLoc remote. I know it can be had for well under $300, so I can take the money saved and invest in some nicer brake levers or something.

DJ, you mentioned Fox forks and while I've looked at them, it seems they offer more travel than I have any use for. I don't mind the $400+ price tag, but they don't seem to offer what I'm looking for in a fork. Even the Vanilla has an asinine 130mm of travel.

Are you all Jealous or something of his idea? LoL. The guy wants a fork...He asked a simple question which I'm not even sure was answered in this thread. Geez. Oh well...get what you want.

BTW...he doesn't live with his parents, nor does he speak to his parents....He pays for his own ****.

as such, nobody has really given any input on what particular fork would work best in this case. As of now, I like the Pilot SL since it has a remote lockout. I don't see anything in Marzocchi's lineup that I much care for. Manitou has some nice forks (the Black series, for example). Anyone ridden either or both of these forks or have an alternative to either? Also, have any lighter riders here ridden both air & elastomer and have any input as to which is better and why? I'm not looking to be convinced not to replace my fork. I don't like it, it's not what I want, I'm going to replace it, period. I'm just debating on which fork I should go with.

No one has given you advice because you've not really given us what you want. Abuse, lightweight, lock out. Unknown travel.


I know the solution! GO OUT AND RIDE UNTIL YOU'RE STRONGER!! Otherwise, you're just wasting valuable time.

No.
No.
No.
NO excuses. GO RIDE dangit and get stronger. Then come back and talk to us and tell us what you REALLY want.

I said above.. 80mm elastomer or air, lighter than my current fork (it's a beast @ 5.2 lbs, so that won't take much), able to take everyday abuse, lockout (remote preferred). Me being a "better rider" isn't going to change the fact that I don't like the fork.

I currently own a 03 SID with 80mm of travel. The first couple rides I took the fork out, it seems to work perfectly fine. I have a couple of friends that also ride purely XC and they haven't had problems with their SIDs either. However, I have been hearing lots of problems with the 04 SIDs, so watch out for those.

I think SIDs are pretty nice forks, but just a big headaches because of their ultra-intensive maaintance schedule. Change the fork oil after 50 hours of riding?? Give me a break....

Ming

I said above.. 80mm elastomer or air, lighter than my current fork (it's a beast @ 5.2 lbs, so that won't take much), able to take everyday abuse, lockout (remote preferred). Me being a "better rider" isn't going to change the fact that I don't like the fork.


Whatever man, even if you have money, it's like buying a rolex to be your beater watch or putting an automated porsche spoiler on a honda civic.

In the end, it's your money, it's your bike but it's also your waste. :(

We're not here to tell you what you want to hear. We're here to tell you what you need to hear. Being a better rider will mean you can cope with weight. Not necessarily the fork's perfomance, but the weight. Being stronger will help you do that. That fork you've now has take a lot of abuse on my bike (casing drops, hitting logs in the wrong way). Don't buy a sid or a light fork. Use your current one until you can handle it well! Otherwise you won't be very strong, can't handle anything too ahrd and shouldn't be in the mtnbiking forum.


The cruelest thing I've ever said, but you have to get it through your head! SID=No No. Strength=YES.
























Oh man I will feel guilty after my ranting feelings are gone.

brake levers? This has gotta be a joke...

Ok here you go... 80mm travel, air sprung, $775 no lockout but it has the inertia valve system so when you stand up and hammer it doesn't bob. Weighs 3.6lbs.

I give you, the Fox F80x.

eh... I've already decided against the SID.. that Fox is really nice, but a bit out of my price range, for sure. The comment about brake levers was just making the point that the money I'd save by getting the Pilot SL over the SID could be spent elsewhere. I'm aware that brake levers aren't going to make any weight difference, just give more adjustability and/or leverage. I'm comparing the manitou Black Super vs the Pilot SL... weight is about the same, the manitou looks nicer but is a bit more expensive. It also appears to be adjustable between 90-120mm of travel (which I don't really need). Both accomodate disc brakes, obviously. Anyone ridden either fork? I have a friend who's 280 and has a Black and absolutely loves it. From what I can tell, the Manitou is a coil/air shock, while the Pilot is coil/elastomer.

I saw that you are a customer-service rep. To your credit you must be very good at your job because you are putting up with alot of abuse here.

However, I must agree that for the riding you are doing and the bike that you have, It's not going to be worth upgrading the fork before it dies. You don't have to utilize all of the travel around town nor does the weight effect anything in your daily riding. Wheels are the most important weight savings due to the rotational mass. Return your bike or ride it as is.

About the only bike I found that actually came equipped with a lockout fork was the Cannondale F600 (I think it was), which clocked in at $999 + tax. Probably should have just waited another week and bought that instead since it's lighter and has a nicer fork... plus it came with clipless pedals. That's the thing that kind of annoys me at this point... by the time I add the price of the new fork plus the clipless pedals, I'll be over the price I would have spent on the c-dale. Not that it matters at this point, I doubt they'll let me trade the bike back in since it was special ordered. Basically the bike was the best I could find for $700, which was what I figured I could spend. What I wanted was more in the $1000+ range, but I didn't feel like plunking down a grand at one time and figured I would just upgrade components as I felt I had the money to spend. Obviously not the cheapest way to go about things, but who cares? You only live once and it's only money, so I might as well blow it on something I enjoy.

You could always sell your bike for say 500 - 600, put in another 500 that you were going to spend on the fork. Save up a little bit more, and get a sweet bike!!! :D

save your money for a new lightewight XC bike. To make a hardrock light, you'd have to replace just about everything. An air fork is a good idea for a lighter rider, because you can set the spring-rate for your weight. They are also not usually intended for stair gaps. I think what you want is a good xc hardtail. Right now you have a tank on wheels. Sell it. Ebay has tons of hardtails going pretty cheap...everyone is looking for full suspension.
Another route to go is a rigid fork and some semi slick tires with knobs on the sides. Bikeman.com has the surly 1x1 rigid fork for $45 (80mm suspension corrected). That would shave a few lbs. and save some money for your next bike. It would also make a great commuter and would do fine for light trail riding.
To answer your original question an 80mm for WILL change your geometry slightly. It will lower the front end, obviously. It will also steepen the heat tube and seat tube angles. This will make it steer a little quicker and climb a little better. It will also make it descend a little worse.

That's always a possibility, but that would require going without a bike for awhile. At any rate, the frame on the Hardrock isn't horrible and I actually kinda like it. Obviously upgrading this bike to higher end stuff would end up costing more money in the long run than buying one similarly equipped, but it would be customized more to my liking (i.e. everything I want, very little that I don't). Basically that was kind of the idea... I needed something rather quickly and decided that $700 was what I could spend, even though I knew that wouldn't get me what I really wanted. I figured I'd just get something I could tolerate and upgrade as funds became available.

Again, it seems that you're not the one to be here. We told you what you needed to hear, but you wanted to hear something else. Sigh, I learned that the hard way, buying a department store bike. This is better, but still not good. What's the point of forums if you always "understood" what's right. If you know what this forum has said, it says not to get the SID. Trust us. That's why we're here.

yeah you may have the wrong bike, but the HR can be lightened significantly IMO. First thing I would change would be wheels/tires. The DW rims are nice but heavy. You probably wouldn't have a problem getting rid of them here, either, and then get some lighter rims and definitely some lighter tires. (the stockers are 750 or something)... fork, maybe a lighter crankset.

I've already traded out the tires for Ritchey Speedmax 2.0 Pros, which save a fair bit of weight each. I've been thinking about new wheels because of the ubercheap hubs my bike came with (some joytech crappers). My friend has Deore hubs and with both of us on the same incline, he coasts away from me even with me pedalling. Sad thing is, he even has knobbies on his bike! An XT/RhynoLite combo would probably save me a fair bit of weight and probably roll better than the cheapo joytech/ditchwitch combo I'm running now. As for the fork, I've been looking at the Reba SL, which would knock a pound or so off my bike and won't cost an arm and a leg. Plus it's a better fork with more adjustability than the Marzocchi.