Bicycle Mechanics - Alan Alum Frame 1970's and new brakes

I have reviewed a few of the posts on placing a recessed nut rear brake onto the bike. I noticed a few people have mentioned that you need to bore out the hole with a 5/16" drill bit going from the seat post direction toward the rear of the bike. I assume that you don't go all the way through? I did buy a rear brake and I thought I was going to be able to fit it on the bike. However, I was thinking, could I just buy a rear brake that is old style and uses washers and nuts? Any suggestions on where to buy and what would be a good way to look for them?
Any help appreciated

Plus, to drill I would need to use a special drill that fits or can I use an alternative method to drill out the hole?

no you do not drill all the way through, that is why you drill from the back, you only drillout the hole on the backside of the bridge. I would not recomend this on an Alloy frome

why do you want to change your brakes? unless they are very lowend brakes (but on an Alloy bike I doubt that) a good cleaning of the calipers, new pads and cable and good cleaning of the rim with some emery cloth then alcohol should really improve braking

sometimes you can find good quality older nutted brakes on ebay. I believe Tektro and DiaCompe both still make nutted brakes. make sure you get the correct 'reach'. the distance from the mounting bolt to the center of the area where the pad bolts on. most better quality brakes have this stamped on the back.

Ask at your bike shop? 'win' one on the auction site?

I have a period Campag record brake set I had on my AlAn,
got them from a housemate 27 years ago
it uses nut on a center bolt , Set now is on a frame
made for recessed center bolts , still works fine..

recessed nuts sit on a shoulder, bored partially in

really near impossible once frame is complete.

Watch out for Cracks in your AlAn, thats why I got rid of mine..
Repairs were cheap, once shipped to Italy,
QTQH, shipping was brutally priced to get it to and fro.

AIR freight.. :twitchy:

Thanks guys, I ended up buying a cheap pair of Nashbar brakes which look nice but of course they're the "recessed" type. I have two options, I noticed some of the individuals buying a Tektro 800a brake for the rear, nutted variety? Then they also talked about replacing the bolts. what do you think?

The easy fix is to use two fronts. Use one with the recessed nut on the front and the second front on the rear along with the original saddle washers and a plain or nyloc nut. The front has a mounting bolt long enough to fit through the bridge and allow for the saddle washers.

There may be a simpler answer. Some front brakes have a bolt long enough to reach through the rear bridge and take a nut on the other side. That leaves the rear to use on the fork, where it's easier to drill for a recessed bolt. The original nut will now be to short, but longer ones are readily available.

No guaranties here, but it's worth a shot because it makes things much simpler.

BTW- BCrider and I posted essentially the same thing at the same time (great minds.....;-). Anyway if you buy the calipers loose buy two fronts, if in pairs, or if you already have the rear) get the longer nuts.

which nashbar brakes? those Tektro 800a have alot of reach! they are like what guys use when switching from 27" wheels to 700c.

replacing the mounting bolt in a brake can be done but you need to find the longer bolts first. post a few pics of your bike with a few closeups of the current brakes so we have a better idea of what we are doing.

PS. if you are going to the trouble of putting new brakes on the bike get something nicer than those Tektro 800a

I was thinking, could I just buy a rear brake that is old style and uses washers and nuts? Any suggestions on where to buy and what would be a good way to look for them?

You can use front caliper intended for recessed mounts on the rear and the mounting bolt will be long enough to accept a nut.

Three's the charm. It's a simple elegant solution, opening you up to using the caliper of your choice (subject to the reach) and having matched brakes without tampering with the frame.

If you prefer to do it the hard way, the possibilities open up dramatically.