Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Often overlooked bicycle choice for Clydes/Athenas

I don't remember having ever seen a recommendation for a touring bike. They're built to take a load and perform well in multiple on-road (perhaps also light off road) tasks.

Here's a pic of my Cannondale T700:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/bradtx/Motorcycles/misc/t700001.jpg

Just a thought.

Brad

A good thought, Brad. Good touring bikes aren't cheap, but compared to what you can spend on a far less capable and durable road bike, they offer solid value.

I don't remember having ever seen a recommendation for a touring bike. They're built to take a load and perform well in multiple on-road (perhaps also light off road) tasks.

Here's a pic of my Cannondale T700:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/bradtx/Motorcycles/misc/t700001.jpg

Just a thought.

Brad

Got one of those ('98 model year) decaying on my basement floor. Tortured it for 10,000 fully-loaded miles (some unpaved) back in '99-'00 as well as some miscellaneous road miles. The only thing I discovered that was sub-standard were the Sun rims. The rear never made it across the country. The front had to be replaced the following winter before its second long trip.

Here is the latest commuting/touring workhorse after last night's rack and pannier test fit:

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/200326_1893008215395_1547239304_2069740_4734589_n.jpg


Without the racks and panniers, it will set you back about $1,200. Rivendell Big front and back racks, Ortlieb Sport Packer (front) and Bike Packer (rear) panniers. Maiden loaded ride scheduled for Easter weekend. Then it's off to Montana in late June for 8 days from/to Missoula on paved and unpaved roads.

Had an '08 model, but it was stolen out of my house a week before Christmas.

I routinely recommend touring bikes to clydes, or anybody just starting out; specifically the LHT as I ride one and am totally happy with the bike- great tough-ish utilitarian bike at a good price point. Comfy too!

I'm thinking real hard about giving myself a LHT when I get down to 250. The bike would take me at my present weight but I'm thinking in terms of the motivation of not allowing myself to pull the trigger on a deal until I've reached the goal weight.

i recommend them often, they are just a road bike with relaxed geometry and a few more gadgets. I think the issue is that true "touring" bikes aren't necessarily sold or marketed much so they are harder to find.

Touring bikes make excellent all around bikes and commuters. But with any bike there are both positives and negatives.

Did you really pay $1200 indyfabz? I bought my LHT from Trophy Bikes in Philly for $950 back in '08.

I think the issue is that true "touring" bikes aren't necessarily sold or marketed much so they are harder to find.

There is definitely truth in that statement. I traveled from Philly to Ithaca to take a look at touring bikes when I was shopping. Only the 520 and T2 were available in my area.

Got one of those ('98 model year) decaying on my basement floor.

You ought to help it find a new home if you're not going to do anything with it.

ChrisO and motobecane69, Sorry, but I missed your post WRT recommending touring frame.

Kerrvillian, A great area to ride, I'll PM you next time I'm there with a bike. A worthy reward, BTW!

indyfabz, Gotta agree with RichardGlover.

Brad

It's a beautiful area to ride. Hopefully my combination of exercise, bike riding and diet will keep me motivated and mobile this summer so I get to see more of it from atop two wheels! I've had the hunger for longer rides while the reality of my physical condition builds to tolerate them.

I'd been lusting for an LHT after reading of Chubby Super Biker (a blogger) and his exploits on his LHT!

I commuted on a 26" wheel touring bike (similar to a Kona Sutra) for more than 20 years, then sold it just before I moved. Partly it was because it was showing it's age, partly because I didn't think I'd need it any more. I'm now looking for another one, as the aluminum IGH hybrid that I bought to replace it is limited and actually 10 pounds heavier. It's down to a Rocky Mountain Sherpa (hand-built wheels!) or an Opus Legato.
Pity Cannondale doesn't do one any more. Marin makes one called the Four Corners that looks like a nice machine.
I suppose cyclocross bikes have replaced tourers to a large extent. Perhaps touring bikes also have a stodgy image problem. Then too, people who buy them tend to keep them a long time, unlike the racing crowd who just have to have the latest thing every two or three years. So, I suppose bike companies don't get as much profit from making them.

I commuted on a 26" wheel touring bike (similar to a Kona Sutra) for more than 20 years, then sold it just before I moved. Partly it was because it was showing it's age, partly because I didn't think I'd need it any more. I'm now looking for another one, as the aluminum IGH hybrid that I bought to replace it is limited and actually 10 pounds heavier. It's down to a Rocky Mountain Sherpa (hand-built wheels!) or an Opus Legato.
Pity Cannondale doesn't do one any more. Marin makes one called the Four Corners that looks like a nice machine.
I suppose cyclocross bikes have replaced tourers to a large extent. Perhaps touring bikes also have a stodgy image problem. Then too, people who buy them tend to keep them a long time, unlike the racing crowd who just have to have the latest thing every two or three years. So, I suppose bike companies don't get as much profit from making them.

Take a look at the Raleigh Sojourn. I think it's pretty sweet.

Take a look at the Raleigh Sojourn. I think it's pretty sweet.
I haven't seen Raleigh in any of the bike shops here. In this part of the world Raleigh is a cheap department store brand. It may be different in the 'states.

I haven't seen Raleigh in any of the bike shops here. In this part of the world Raleigh is a cheap department store brand. It may be different in the 'states.

Raleigh Canada. Sojourn. (http://www.raleigh-canada.ca/popup/sojourn.htm#specs)

I really enjoy my LHT, it is a great bike. One of the things that I enjoy is being able to touch the ground with my foot while in the saddle at a light. I have toured, grocery shopped and commuted on it. I highly recommend it to anyone clyde or not.

It's down to a Rocky Mountain Sherpa (hand-built wheels!) or an Opus Legato.
Pity Cannondale doesn't do one any more. Marin makes one called the Four Corners that looks like a nice machine.


Both good Canadian choices. :) I have the Opus Largo myself, and really like it so far. But I only have about 40km on it at this point.

I really enjoy my LHT, it is a great bike. One of the things that I enjoy is being able to touch the ground with my foot while in the saddle at a light. I have toured, grocery shopped and commuted on it. I highly recommend it to anyone clyde or not.

That's another good point WRT touring frames. The bottom bracket shell is closer to the ground compared to a traditional racing frame, which allows the saddle to be closer to the ground.

Brad

Overlooked Clyde bike? www.worksman.com for bulletproof Crusiers.

Raleigh Canada. Sojourn. (http://www.raleigh-canada.ca/popup/sojourn.htm#specs)
Yes, I'm aware that there's a Raleigh Canada, but none of the bike shops in this city will carry it because one of the major department stores sells cheap junky bikes with the Raleigh name. They have no doubt gotten tired of people walking in, looking at the price, and loudly exclaiming that they can get a Raleigh for only $200 or so at the XXX department store. One local shop stopped selling Jamis for the same reason; they started selling to Sport Chek who will of course seem a much better deal to someone who knows squat about bikes and doesn't understand the importance of service and proper assembly.
In any case - I've bought the Rocky Mountain! It's last year's model on sale, and I did actually test ride it in the fall. I'll get it later this week when they've upgraded the Sora shifters, and when I've gotten over this nasty cold I'm carrying. My only issue with it is that it's black. Why do touring bikes come in such dull colors? I think I'll have it resprayed next winter.

Rhodabike, Of course you know we'll need pictures. :) One of my Cannondales is black, but with a gold metalflake added to the clearcoat which can make for some dramatic outlines depending on the lighting. A red or yellow tint to a clearcoat would have the same effect.

Brad

My only issue with it is that it's black. Why do touring bikes come in such dull colors? I think I'll have it resprayed next winter.

If I had to make a reasonable guess as to why most touring bikes are a matte color, it would be because the last thing you want to do is draw attention to your bike when you're camped out for the night.

My other theory is that they are not flashy because...they don't have to be. People who seek out touring bikes know ahead of time what model they are at the shop to check out and why. It's usually not an impulse buy where bright colors and fancy graphics have any input in the decision making process.

Oh, and to Bradtx, that's a nice bike you got there :thumb: !!!

...It's usually not an impulse buy where bright colors and fancy graphics have any input in the decision making process.
No, impulse had nothing to do with my purchase... I'm just getting really tired of black bikes. My old touring bike was black, my road bike was black before I had it resprayed scarlet, my present commuter bike is black. Since I have no intention of camping out ever again (I wanted a touring bike for other reasons) I'm not worried on that score either. Next winter it's getting a makeover.

I've recommended touring bikes to clydes in the past but it seems that most people looking for a first bike are looking at hybrids or flat bars of some type, I know a lot of people that think the drop bars are the most uncomfortable riding position, without trying drop bars. It also seems that the typical new rider thinks that $350 is the high end of the price range for buying a bike.

I've recommended touring bikes to clydes in the past but it seems that most people looking for a first bike are looking at hybrids or flat bars of some type, I know a lot of people that think the drop bars are the most uncomfortable riding position, without trying drop bars. It also seems that the typical new rider thinks that $350 is the high end of the price range for buying a bike.

I think part of the problem with drop bars. can be blamed on dealers, who routinely will mount a threadless stem sitting on the headset and then saw off the steerer, and with modern bicycles trending smaller, the saddle ends up a foot above the bars, which may be fine if your racing, and want that butt-on-top position, but it doesn't work on bicycles, which are ridden for comfort. For a touring bike you want a saddle to bar drop of about -5cm, meaning the bars are 5cm(2") above the saddle, when the saddle is at the proper height. This is the one problem with threadless headsets, while the saddle has about 20cm of adjustment, the bars have none. The old threaded headset stems allowed as much as 10cm of adjustment. Threadless headsets are fine for racing, they are fine for mountain biking where you spend half your time pushing the bike up hills too steep to ride, they are fine for hybrids which are not typically driven 50km to the MUP, where you ride around for 10 minutes and then drive home. They are lousy for touring bikes and rando bikes, which need the bars much higher. Thinking of a couple of fixes for this, one would be a telescoping steerer, where there are 2 sections one inside the other, which has drillum, in the outer section, you pull off the top cap and there is a lever, you pull the lever which moves a pair of pins toward the centre, then lift the bars, which are attached to the centre piece, to the proper height then release the lever and push to re-engage the pins in the holes in the outer piece. Another solution would be a bayonet mount for the steerer in the crown. In this case you remove the bars and top cap, pull out the fork, push a small release in the bottom of the crown, then turn and remove the steerer, this would be the same as a camera lens removal system you can then install a longer steerer. Another option would be a thread at the bottom of the steerer, with a locknut that is affixed from below the crown. In the case of a removable steerer, they simply make the steerers complete in different lengths, for example 10cm, 12cm, 14cm, 16cm etc. This would be preferable with a CF steerer where cutting the steerer can potentially weaken it, if not done correctly.

Price is another issue, when you see that a cheap set of drop bar brifters is 4 times the price of a set of flat bar brifters, you kinda wonder if that has a lot to do with it. The parts are simply a lot more expensive, when they are likely no more expensive to manufacture. This may be changing though, if the bike show is any indication, a lot more drop bar bikes then there were only a couple of years ago.....

I ride a touring bike, a Novara Safari. I've got trekking bars on mine and I love them. Also, love the disc brakes.http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g229/Kazzynova/Cycling/P7080183.jpg
This is an old pic. Since this was taken I laid the bars down flat, replaced the saddle with a Terry and I've gone through one drive train and it probably needs another. I've put over 12k miles on this bike just riding around town. Some day I'll actually tour with it. I love this bike.

I don't understand why they don't sell bikes with the steerer tube left cut to the same height as the highest safe position of the seat, with spacers underneath.

that way, you can sell it to anybody, and if they want the tube cut, you can offer it as an added (free) service later. Yes, you're cutting it twice, the second time at no cost, but you're getting added potential to get the customer into your store a second time - possibly a 3rd - once for the sale of the bike, a second time for a better fit to adjust the height of the bars, and a third time when he's satisfied and wants the excess trimmed off.

Having something that gets your new customers into the habit of coming back to your store for minor tweaks and adjustments is priceless. Why LBSs don't do it baffles me.

On the Raleigh Sojourn- where I saw it was at REI, big sporting-goods place here in the US that handles serious hiking and climbing gear, canoes, bicycles, etc. However, REI didn't have it in the right size. I checked online for the Raleigh dealers and found my local bike shop was one. They sell Raleigh "comfort bikes", which I think fall into the $300-$400 range. They didn't stock the Sojourn, but were able to order it up for me in my size, and at a good price. (Their regular line of road bikes is Cannondale.)

I remember reading that even back in the 60's, Raleigh USA was a completely different company selling completely different bikes from the English company, and I have no idea who sold what in Canada. In the current lineup, they have some pretty decent bikes, and are hitting at some niche markets, too- the Sojourn being an example, which is likely sold more on styling than on proposed usage, I suspect. It is actually made in China.

When I was shopping for bikes, I think I found about 8 different brands of touring bike more or less in similar price ranges, but only one or two were available from local stock- that being the Trek 520 at the biggest store around (but not in my size, even) and the Sojourn. All the rest would have been special-order sight-unseen, even the Long Haul Trucker.

Did you really pay $1200 indyfabz? I bought my LHT from Trophy Bikes in Philly for $950 back in '08.

That's abput what I paid for my original one in '98. QBP (which owns Surly) raised the price again in 2011. Trophy is now selling them for $1,194. Got one for the GF, too. I could have saved $100 on hers by buying the 'model they had in her size, but it was that awful blue velvet they have.

I don't understand why they don't sell bikes with the steerer tube left cut to the same height as the highest safe position of the seat, with spacers underneath.

that way, you can sell it to anybody, and if they want the tube cut, you can offer it as an added (free) service later. Yes, you're cutting it twice, the second time at no cost, but you're getting added potential to get the customer into your store a second time - possibly a 3rd - once for the sale of the bike, a second time for a better fit to adjust the height of the bars, and a third time when he's satisfied and wants the excess trimmed off.

Having something that gets your new customers into the habit of coming back to your store for minor tweaks and adjustments is priceless. Why LBSs don't do it baffles me.

my giant came with a notched spacer. The compression nut pushed down on the spacer to hold the headset adjustment, then you could slide the stem up and down and adjust wherever you wanted it. Not everyone likes the aesthetic of having steerer showing above the stem, but it can be done.

That's abput what I paid for my original one in '98. QBP (which owns Surly) raised the price again in 2011. Trophy is now selling them for $1,194. Got one for the GF, too. I could have saved $100 on hers by buying the 'model they had in her size, but it was that awful blue velvet they have.

I always liked the plain colors they have for their bikes. Mine is the Utility Blue (not the robbins egg blue). Some people loved the Truckachino or Olive Green colors, but i'm not one of them.

Since they raised the price I would now question how much of a deal they are.

I think part of the problem with drop bars. can be blamed on dealers, who routinely will mount a threadless stem sitting on the headset and then saw off the steerer, and with modern bicycles trending smaller, the saddle ends up a foot above the bars, ..... etc. This would be preferable with a CF steerer where cutting the steerer can potentially weaken it, if not done correctly.

Price is another issue, when you see that a cheap set of drop bar brifters is 4 times the price of a set of flat bar brifters, you kinda wonder if that has a lot to do with it. The parts are simply a lot more expensive, when they are likely no more expensive to manufacture. This may be changing though, if the bike show is any indication, a lot more drop bar bikes then there were only a couple of years ago.....

+100, I agree 100% with your statement. The LBS should never cut a steerer until 1 month after the sale when a buyer has had a chance to tune the fit and brings it back in to be cut.

When I purchased my Jamis Aurora Elite in "09" I told the LBS not to cut the steerer. Just put some spacers on the steerer and place the stem at its highest position. Over the next few weeks I flipped the stem to the lower position and lower the stem by a couple of spacers to a comfortable position. I haven't cut the steerer yet, since I have contemplated using a second stem and cutoff bar for my handlebar bag, and may still want to do this.

I think that the threadless headset is used not because it is superior to the threaded but it saves manufacturers money by not having to thread a fork and less chance of cross threading a headset. With the threadless design we have lost the adjustability that was available with quill stems.

I didn't think about cost difference with the brifters but I was thinking that most new riders see the flat bars as more upright and the drops are lower not realizing that most riders hands are on the tops and brake hoods. And they don't realize that the drop bars add more than one additional hand position to alleviate hand fatigue.

my touring/commuter bike Mavic A719 just showed up today along with deore hub. should have my spokes later today or tomorrow then the rear wheel will get built to match the mavic a317 disc that is up front. Didn't realize just how helpful those reflective sidewalls were til I took a pic with the flash on!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_EsMeUMrMdB0/TZMujXoq5pI/AAAAAAAAAmY/QtEMEavPDus/s800/IMAG0690.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_EsMeUMrMdB0/TZMvVmEvlQI/AAAAAAAAAmg/yR9ZTa5ONXg/s800/IMAG0693.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_EsMeUMrMdB0/TZMv-Gbh8bI/AAAAAAAAAmk/jgt1myEVwRw/s800/IMAG0692.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_EsMeUMrMdB0/TZMt5Btxu8I/AAAAAAAAAmQ/l3pJO87anBc/s800/IMAG0694.jpg

Well, if everyone insists, I'll post up my tourer again :)

It's one of the last hand built in England Dawes Super Galaxy. Reynolds 531 with full Deore drive train and Campy cantilevers. Certainly not a Bikes Direct model, no no no no no.
http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l363/awprice/100_0426.jpg
http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l363/awprice/100_0430.jpg
http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l363/awprice/Dawes/HandBuiltInEngland.jpg
http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l363/awprice/Dawes/531.jpg

The trusty Brooks
http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l363/awprice/Dawes/Brookes.jpg

Shop Tag. Yep, that says Cambridge, England. They are still in business, just down the road from the college and there is the world's greatest pastry shop right across the street.
http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l363/awprice/Dawes/shop.jpg

txvintage, Those handlebars look like the Cinellis I have on my old Raleigh. Really comfortable bars.

Brad

I think the orginal poster has a excellent point and one that I've often thought about as a 300lb clyde thinking of a new bike. Touring bikes are designed to carry loads and a clyde is going to put a higher then normal load on a bike. So, problems that many "normal" weight people have with touring bikes (feel sluggish, to stiff without a load, etc) are probably not going to be a issue for a clyde. It's for those reasons that I'm seriously thinking of buying a touring bike for my first new bike purchase. I figure it will be perfect for my current use-fitness with the intent of steadily longer rides with the hope of completing a century this year. If I ever get to a weight or riding level that I feel my bike is holding me back, well, I can look for a different type of bike and keep my touring bike for more utility purposes (rides to the store, family rides, Etc).

Now, all this sounds good in theory, but, all those "faster looking" bikes sure do look tempting, lol. Lately, I've also been looking at other light touring/sport bikes. The Salsa Casseroll is sure nice to look at. It seems to be a nice in between place-not loading touring but has a lot of comfort features.