Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling - CAAD9-5 for Rando, endurance cycling?

Is it possible? I kept thinking I'd buy a synapse, but now I wonder after someone somewhere else suggested using a trailer on a carbon road bike to pull for tour riding...


well anyhow, I thought using a CAAD9-5 with a bob trailer might actually work for a fast multi-day credit card tour, right?

Well, think of it this way.

You want your rando bike to be comfortable for extended periods of time (8 hours, 16 hours, 24 hours etc). For some people, a racing bike like a CAAD works. But in general, you may want a bike with a more upright position; wider tires; room for fenders; a more compliant frame. You may also want lower gearing.

The Synapse will have some of these characteristics. Other bikes will fit the bill a little better, e.g. cross bikes or sport touring bikes.

A lot of it depends on what you find comfortable and preferable, though. If you prefer an aggressive position for longer rides, the bike should be set up that way.

A trailer will likely be overkill for a credit-card tour, and will slow you down. You may want to go with a bike that can take a rack for a credit card tour.

It is like a driving a Ferrari with a "Thule" box attached on the roof and pulling a U-haul trailer. It is possible, of course.

Is it possible? I kept thinking I'd buy a synapse, but now I wonder after someone somewhere else suggested using a trailer on a carbon road bike to pull for tour riding...


well anyhow, I thought using a CAAD9-5 with a bob trailer might actually work for a fast multi-day credit card tour, right?

Are you asking about randonneuring or touring? It'll work just fine for Randonneurring. Just like anything else, it needs to be comfortable and meet all your needs. If it does that, go for it.

I'll assume that you want a bike for both long-distance challenge rides and touring. If you need clarification on what the differences are, read this: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/207134-Touring-vs.-Long-Distance-Cycling

There is a continuum in the design of drop-bar bikes that goes like this;

Criterion race bike - ultra short wheelbase and ultra steep head-tube angles for short duration circuit races

(multi-stage) Road-race bike - short wheelbase and moderately steep head tube angles

(Spring classics) Road-race bike AKA “endurance” or “Roubaix” or “Sportive" or “Gran Fondo” bikes with taller head-tubes than other road-race bikes and room for 700x25 tires

Sports bikes - long reach caliper brakes, room for 700x25 tires & fenders, longer wheelbase and chainstays in the 415 to 430 range

(recreational) Cyclocross bikes - cantilever or disc brakes, room for 700x32 tires & fenders, longer wheelbase and chainstays in the 415 to 430 range

Touring bikes room for 700x35 tires & fenders, longer wheelbase and chainstays 430mm or longer attachments for racks front & rear

The CAAD9-5 is a Criterion race bike, and might be less than ideal for long distance challenge events. I rider could, of course, use a CAAD9-5 to complete a century ride or 200k. However, the bike would not provide any advantages and might become progressively less comfortable the longer it is ridden.

If you had to use one bike for all riding, including long distance events and towing a trailer while touring, a Sport, Cyclocross or Touring bike would be far better than a CAAD9-5.

This is funny becuase I have a

CAAD9-5
Long haul trucker (Touring bike)
A Bob yak trailer

I towed a lightly-loaded BOB with the CAAD9-5 and did some multi-day tours without problem.
The LHT is much more comfy and most importantly, RELIABLE for long tours; but there is nothing wrong with just using a sporty road bike with the trailer.

Just this weekend I did a 200k on my LHT, riding on rolling terrain (Saratoga Brevet series in upstate NY) and finished feeling like I could do more. Nothing really hurt or ached thanks to the wide 26" wheels and great riding position but I could feel the weight of the bike taking it's toll on me. If the ride were a longer brevet, I would have taken the CAAD9-5.

IMO if you fit the CAAD9-5 right, remember to stretch and move your arms / neck / torso, and use an oversized saddlebag (as I do), it can be a very good rando bike.

Too all you guys who say things like "what's a little more weight?" - Unless the ride is completely flat, all that extra weight is taxing every pedal stroke. you won't feel it right away, but at the end of a long event, you'll have more gas left in the tank than if you had ridden a lighter bike.

...The LHT is much more comfy and most importantly, RELIABLE for long tours; but there is nothing wrong with just using a sporty road bike with the trailer...

Are you saying the frame is more reliable or the components?

I've been enjoying the threads and getting more information.

There were a few bikes that I was really looking at as a second bike. The first, initially, was the LHT. That is, until I started realizing that this is a 32 pound bike. While I loved my Karate Monkey for commuting and all-purpose riding, I couldn't honestly find myself touring (in the traditional sense). I have a pretty ambitious plan(s) for some longer rides.

Currently, I'm pushing out to about 122 miles on the CAAD9-5. I'm not really finding myself limited other than I have no specific criteria to match it against. My other bike is a 77 Araya that weighs in around 34 or so pounds. It's piggish and after riding the snappier C'dale - I don't like it very much. I'm keeping it because the mentor who sold it to me has kept it for years - it was his dad's - who originally owned the LBS. It was a custom "dealer-only" thing that has campy hubs, but SR crap otherwise. I am getting far off topic though.

I have been considering a Synapse (which is what I bought my wife) but it seems like its going to be a heavier CAAD9, with more sluggish, flat steering. The benefit appears to be that it can accommodate a rack on the rear and fenders, which is critical for my wife's riding needs. She isn't doing club rides, I do and will continue to on my CAAD9.

So Synapse is already off the table. LHT is really off the table for now. If I find that I want something for heavy loaded touring down the road, I'll save and invest in it. N+1 and all that.

Right now, I'm leaning toward a Soma ES. I'm really not a light-weight at 205 still, even though I'll easily make the 175 threshold by July. I still like the idea of using a steel framed bike and getting it under 20 lbs. Adrenaline has a pretty good deal with a 105 kit. I already have a set of ROL SLRs that I'm going to purchase this week and they'll be able to go back and forth between the two. The real question is how much weight-reduction I can do to it. CF cranks might be the trick:p

The CF options aren't impressing me at this point. While I seriously am drooling over the idea of getting a Focus Izalco Team Replica Katusha, that's a graduation gift to myself for finally finishing college before 40:p

I built up a CAAD9 as a specialized climbing bike because a friend gave me the frame. It's light and very responsive, but I find it difficult to imagine a less suitable LD bike. Well, compared to my other bikes, anyway. It's such a pogo stick, and doesn't have room for fat, low pressure tires that could take some of the sting out of it. It's too quick for my taste, anyway. I'm comparing it to a carbon Trek, a Nashbar Frame, and a steel tandem. I'd much rather ride the Nashbar on a brevet, though it's not great either, kind of clunky and still aluminum. At least the aluminum on the Nashbar is really thick so it can take a lot of abuse. I think the Nashbar built up at about 21 lbs.

I'd go steel or carbon.

Just an FYI, I've been very happy with my Soma Double Cross. 8000 miles in the last three years. It's my best bike, better than a good American made Ti bike I sold recently. The Frame is a little flexy when hammering at 25 mph or climbing 20 degree grades. The fit, stability and ride quality are an A+.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll210/wildcat-bucket/Somka2x2009.jpg

...Currently, I'm pushing out to about 122 miles on the CAAD9-5. I'm not really finding myself limited other than I have no specific criteria to match it against. ...


I think you answered your own question right here. Stick with what you have for a while. I used a CAAD5 for a few years as my climbing bike on all my ultra distance races. It's a great climbing bike! If I were you, and I'm not, I'd keep the CAAD9-5 and buy the Focus. If you really are interested in ultra racing you'll use the Focus for the majority of your riding and use the CAAD9-5 for the big climbs. Now all you need is a Cervelo P4 for when you really want to go fast!

The longest I have ever gone is double centuries but I have done quite a few on my aluminum 2001 Giant TCR0. It has VERY short stays (so short that the seat tube is indented to allow room for the rear wheel). I found that with 25-27c tires (BARELY fit), double bar tape and a Selle italia prolink saddle, it was very comfortable for double centuries. The handling may have been a little "quick" for such long rides but it never caused me any undue concern or fatique. I have now moved to a 2007 tarmac pro and will be using this as my double century bike now.

Are you saying the frame is more reliable or the components?

Both. The Frame is bomb proof and the components last a hellish long time.

Both. The Frame is bomb proof and the components last a hellish long time.

Have you ever wore the frame or components out on either bike?

I guess getting old is really something that is never noticed until it happens to you.

If people want to go fast on a long ride - then ride a racing bike - but don't go talking about a racing bike as if its long distance cycling equipment.

The single most important defining factor of any "longer distance" bicycle is its ability to accommodate suitable tires and gearing for the route.

If you can ride 23 or 25mm tires and have gears that keep you from walking hills - ride whatever you want - at least until your old enough to know better.

Have you ever wore the frame or components out on either bike?

Both bikes aren't old enough to have components randomly failing, but I've seen it happen on rides with buddies of mine who have older bikes.

I'd roll on what you already have. It doesn't sound like you have any fit issues and, if it's comfortable for 100+ mile rides, I don't see any need for anything else unless you're doing some heavy loaded touring. You could try to get some tires that are a little wider to make the ride a little softer and double wrap your bars like someone said already.

It's nice to dream and drool over exotic new bikes, but it can be just as rewarding to realize you already have something suitable for all your needs.

If you're comfortable on the bike for the distance, and can carry the amount of gear you want to carry, ride what you have. Change bikes when it won't do something you want it to do.

I am a total newbie, but I just bought a CAAD9 from LBS, Since I have been riding a hybrid LBS installed a adjustable taller stem for a more upright riding position while transitioning to the lower bars.

I pick it up next week, can't wait! Just a thought if you already have the CAAD9 change the stem to one that is adjustable and taller and have a bike you can do both with. Just my $0.02 now I will go back to my corner and read.....

I am a total newbie, but I just bought a CAAD9 from LBS, Since I have been riding a hybrid LBS installed a adjustable taller stem for a more upright riding position while transitioning to the lower bars.

I pick it up next week, can't wait! Just a thought if you already have the CAAD9 change the stem to one that is adjustable and taller and have a bike you can do both with. Just my $0.02 now I will go back to my corner and read.....

Never been much of an upright rider. I recently did a crit and had to switch my stack around just to get lower on the drops. Yoga has done wonders on my spin.