Bicycle Mechanics - Repair stand suggestions

I am in the market for a repair stand and was looking at two different styles

1) Park PCS-10, clamps bike by seatpost or frame tubes
2) Park PRS-20, supports bike by bottom bracket and front or rear dropouts.

It seems that the PRS-20 would provide better support when working on drive trains.

Anyone have pros or cons on either of these styles of repair stands?

I like the Ultimate Pro Elite bicycle stand, I've noticed Feedback Sports has a similar stand, it may be the same under a different name. In any case, it's a solid stand, easily adjusted.

The bottom bracket one works better on bikes that do not have easy access to seat tubes, or bikes that dont have circular tubes like carbon fiber bikes, or small bikes that dont have enough tube for a park stand to grip. I only own park stands, they are easier to resell (my opinion) and its what I always have used and what im comfortable with. I just like the locking mechanism, and the easy adjust threaded style adjuster.

I've got the PCS-10 and it is awesome. I can rotate the bike 360 degrees to work on it from all angles as well as adjust height to work on it comfortably. It also folds up fairly compact. Bike Island has them for $135 w/ free S+H.

+1 on the pro elite stand which is now made by Feedback Sports...Ultimate sold off this part of their company and focuses on speaker stands.

-j

PRS-20 style is almost always a better bet. You're not going to damage anything with nearly any bike, and you get a lot more leverage when working on stuff.

+1 on the pro elite stand which is now made by Feedback Sports...Ultimate sold off this part of their company and focuses on speaker stands.

-j
+2 Great stand. and great support from Feedback. Even though I bought my ultimate before Feedback sports bought the product line, when I had trouble with my clamp, Feedback was very helpful in getting me the info I needed to fix it.

The PRS-20 is a race stand - it's big advantage is the portability. I would avoid that, if I was looking for a home stand. The PRS-10 or the Feedback stand would provide a more solid base to work on.

I have the PCS-10 and love it. It's nice to be able to get the bike in any position needed. Convenient to not have to partially disassemble the bike

I am in the market for a repair stand and was looking at two different styles

1) Park PCS-10, clamps bike by seatpost or frame tubes
2) Park PRS-20, supports bike by bottom bracket and front or rear dropouts.

It seems that the PRS-20 would provide better support when working on drive trains.

Anyone have pros or cons on either of these styles of repair stands?

The major flaw with the PRS-20 is the fork mount. It's a hassle if you want to work on the headset, fork, front brake or front wheel while in the fork. You might be able to turn the bike around and remove the rear wheel, clamp it in the rear dropouts but that's a lot of excess fiddling. If you have a delicate bike, the PRS-20 serves it's purpose but if you don't need the stand for that, why deal with the headaches. I've had something similar in the past (a Minoura) and it really is a pain to use.

The PCS-10 is okay but the PCS-4 has a better clamp. The price is more but a stand will last you for decades and the clamp is easier to operate with one hand.

If you want something that the cockroaches will appreciate while riding titanium bikes and eating carbon ones:rolleyes:, go for the PCS-3. Very expensive but truly shop quality. I've had one for 20+ years and I expect to get another 3 or 4 hundred years out of it:eek:;)

I don't get why repair stands are so rad. I own one of the cheaper park ones (http://www.ebikestop.com/park_pcs_9_home_mechanic_repair_stand-TL7450.php), and i've worked with the fancy ones at the bike shop, but at home, i always just use my bike storage stand (http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1023853_-1___).

The major flaw with the PRS-20 is the fork mount. It's a hassle if you want to work on the headset, fork, front brake or front wheel while in the fork. You might be able to turn the bike around and remove the rear wheel, clamp it in the rear dropouts but that's a lot of excess fiddling. If you have a delicate bike, the PRS-20 serves it's purpose but if you don't need the stand for that, why deal with the headaches. I've had something similar in the past (a Minoura) and it really is a pain to use.

The PCS-10 is okay but the PCS-4 has a better clamp. The price is more but a stand will last you for decades and the clamp is easier to operate with one hand.

If you want something that the cockroaches will appreciate while riding titanium bikes and eating carbon ones:rolleyes:, go for the PCS-3. Very expensive but truly shop quality. I've had one for 20+ years and I expect to get another 3 or 4 hundred years out of it:eek:;)

What's a delicate bike? Carbon?

I was thinking that it would be more stable when adjusting the drivetrain and cranking through the gears. I just envision the rear moving around more on the PCS-10 and the PCS-20 would be more rigid.

What's a delicate bike? Carbon?

I was thinking that it would be more stable when adjusting the drivetrain and cranking through the gears. I just envision the rear moving around more on the PCS-10 and the PCS-20 would be more rigid.

Yes. Carbon or other frames that can't be clamped with the clamp on a PCS-4. There are some. I always clamp to the seatpost anyway.

Cranking through gears isn't all that difficult with the traditional clamp stands. The bike moves some but it's not that much of an issue. Being able to work on the front of the bike while having freedom of movement is much more important. Think of having to change or adjust a headset without being able to move the fork. How would you remove and install traditional cups on the PCS-20? The fork needs to be clamped but you need the fork free to remove the cups.

I also have a Feedback Sports workstand, it's the "Mechanic" one and I love it. It's super stable, aluminum so it's a bit lighter than the steel ones and raises higher than most of the others in the same class. The clamp is really easy to spin closed as well. Plus I have the truing stand they make and it clamps on top of the stand so I can stand while I true, but that's probably not one of the biggest features of the stand.

Arms that stick out from basement /garage framing in the walls work, too,
as will hooks from the overhead.

I think you need the PRS 20 if you have a Carbon and non round tubed frame

that sort is what the Grand tour team mechs use
because they get all the super light stuff from the sponsors
to show off to the consumers , that may crush if gripped in a stand.

I think you need the PRS 20 if you have a Carbon and non round tubed frame


Do you mean like this?

Giant Carbon (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bustercrb/4123338825/in/set-72157623483647522)

Do you mean like this?

Giant Carbon (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bustercrb/4123338825/in/set-72157623483647522)

I would use the seat post for clamping that frame. But I use the seat post almost exclusively. I've never crushed a frame but I've seen crushed frames. Seat posts are cheap.

My uncle had a Campy metal workstand from the early 70's. It had a metal clamp that clamped the down tube, right on the decals. That's why the bikes he gave me have crushed and missing decals.

My point? I love my Park PCS-10 with seat post clamp!

I would use the seat post for clamping that frame. But I use the seat post almost exclusively. I've never crushed a frame but I've seen crushed frames. Seat posts are cheap.

Generally good advice even with steel and alu frames. Higher end steel and alu tubes are pretty thin and even if worry is not that straight forward clamp pressure will damage the frame tube, damage could result from increased pressure if you change position of the bike while attached to the stand (i.e. from raising the height of the stand or rotating the clamp to change angle of the bike (say from horizontal to angled to facilitate easire access to a deraillleur, underside of the bb shell, or whatever) . Also, if you have carbon seatpost, its a good idea to have an alloy post lying around to swap in when working on the bike.

I would use the seat post for clamping that frame. But I use the seat post almost exclusively. I've never crushed a frame but I've seen crushed frames. Seat posts are cheap.

That bike also has a carbon seat post and I may need to use an old alloy one to use a stand with it.

Thank you and everyone else that provided comments.

I think I may have been trying to find some justification for going with the PCS-20 style.

That bike also has a carbon seat post and I may need to use an old alloy one to use a stand with it.

Thank you and everyone else that provided comments.

I think I may have been trying to find some justification for going with the PCS-20 style.

Well, yeah, pulling the seatpost just to work on the bike is silly. With a PRS-20 style, you drop off the front wheel, pop it on the stand and it's strong and stable. Try torquing a bottom bracket on a seatpost-clamp stand. Have fun with that!

pulling the seatpost just to work on the bike is silly. With a PRS-20 style, you drop off the front wheel, pop it on the stand and it's strong and stable.Try torquing a bottom bracket on a seatpost-clamp stand. Have fun with that!

Its not that hard, really. Swapping seat posts not appreciably more complicated than removing front wheel and I can get plenty of torque on BBs. That said, PRS-20 looks like a nice option

Yes. Carbon or other frames that can't be clamped with the clamp on a PCS-4. There are some. I always clamp to the seatpost anyway.

Cranking through gears isn't all that difficult with the traditional clamp stands. The bike moves some but it's not that much of an issue. Being able to work on the front of the bike while having freedom of movement is much more important. Think of having to change or adjust a headset without being able to move the fork. How would you remove and install traditional cups on the PCS-20? The fork needs to be clamped but you need the fork free to remove the cups.

It is not a problem doing headset work on a Euro-style work stand, you just clamp the frame to the stand at the bottom bracket and the rear dropouts instead of the fork. One could even argue that the Euro style stand is better when it comes to headset work, since the frame will remain stable even if you apply pressure to the crown tube; clamp style works stands tends to become wobbly when the frame is clamped at the seat post, but pressure is applied to the crown tube.

There is in fact a lot of good to be said about such stands compared to tall clamp-style work stands; they keep the bike very stable and well aligned. They keeps the handlebar stable. Allows easy access to both sides of the bikes, by eg, rotating the stand/bike. You can't crush the frame or seat post by accident and don't need to swap out the seat post. They are usually lighter and more compact than clamp style stands, which is useful for traveling or stowing away.

I am not claiming overall superiority, just that the principle behind the Euro style stand is very sound, and that they work well for all kinds of bike related work.

--
Regards

I also use the Ultimate Pro Elite and am very happy with it. Solid, folds and it came with a nice bag.

I am in favor of the seatpost clamping style because of the versatility of being able to work on anything on the bike easily, including the headset, without reclamping and fiddling with removing wheels. There is a reason they use this style of repair stand in bike shops, you know. BTW, I am currently in the market for a new repair stand as well, and I appreciate all the suggestions in this thread. Based on people's enthusiasm with the Feedback Sports stands, I will probably end up getting one from them.

All of my bike stands were purchased USED, off Craigs List. If you are patient, you will find a good Parks stand for about half of new or less. And no shipping.

I currently have the PRS-2 stand. Overkill for home use, but I worked my way up to it. Bought it from a guy that had closed his bike shop.

I also use the Ultimate Pro Elite and am very happy with it. Solid, folds and it came with a nice bag.

Nice to hear that. I just picked up a used Ultimate (not sure if it's the same model) for $65 and have yet to try it out. In fact, it's still in the bag! The clamp looked a little odd, to me. Have you had any issues with it?

Well, yeah, pulling the seatpost just to work on the bike is silly. With a PRS-20 style, you drop off the front wheel, pop it on the stand and it's strong and stable. Try torquing a bottom bracket on a seatpost-clamp stand. Have fun with that!

I've been using a clamp type stand since the early 90s. Back when you had to deal with fixed cups which made servicing of a bottom bracket much more difficult than today. It's never been a problem.

I have, as I indicated, used stands that require removal of the front wheel. They make working on certain parts of the bike much more difficult. Try removing the headset while having to clamp the fork...Have fun with that!


It is not a problem doing headset work on a Euro-style work stand, you just clamp the frame to the stand at the bottom bracket and the rear dropouts instead of the fork. One could even argue that the Euro style stand is better when it comes to headset work, since the frame will remain stable even if you apply pressure to the crown tube; clamp style works stands tends to become wobbly when the frame is clamped at the seat post, but pressure is applied to the crown tube.

There is in fact a lot of good to be said about such stands compared to tall clamp-style work stands; they keep the bike very stable and well aligned. They keeps the handlebar stable. Allows easy access to both sides of the bikes, by eg, rotating the stand/bike. You can't crush the frame or seat post by accident and don't need to swap out the seat post. They are usually lighter and more compact than clamp style stands, which is useful for traveling or stowing away.

I am not claiming overall superiority, just that the principle behind the Euro style stand is very sound, and that they work well for all kinds of bike related work.

--
Regards

You still have to remove a wheel to put the bike in a stand. Removing a seat post to work on the bike is much easier than removing a wheel, especially a rear wheel. That is if you even have to remove the seatpost.

Look at what shops use. I've never run across a shop that didn't have a clamp style stand.

you guys wont see me working on bikes with a euro style stand. no way

i use bungee cords hung from a gas pipe chinup bar. it's not ideal.

I have, as I indicated, used stands that require removal of the front wheel. They make working on certain parts of the bike much more difficult. Try removing the headset while having to clamp the fork...Have fun with that!

The PRS-20 style stands have a skewer for the rear dropouts, so it's no trouble to work on the front end.




You still have to remove a wheel to put the bike in a stand. Removing a seat post to work on the bike is much easier than removing a wheel, especially a rear wheel. That is if you even have to remove the seatpost.

If removing and reinstalling a wheel is harder for you than removing and correctly reinstalling a seatpost, you need to improve your mechanic skills.


Look at what shops use. I've never run across a shop that didn't have a clamp style stand.

Look at what the pro teams use. All bottom-bracket support stands.

The bottom line here is that those who haven't ever used a modern bottom-bracket/PRS-20 stand for any time will never agree that they're better technology. They're stuck in the past with clamp stands. These threads come up from time to time and I guess they're just pointless.

The PRS-20 style stands have a skewer for the rear dropouts, so it's no trouble to work on the front end.

I doubt that it is any trouble to work on the front end, however it is much more hassle to do it. You have to remove the rear wheel, mount it in the stand and clamp it to the dropout vs holding the bike in one hand and clamping it in the stand. I can also make many adjustments to different parts of the bike without having to remove wheels to do so. If I need to adjust brakes, I can do both at the same time. If I want to lube the chain, I can also check the headset if I need to. If I find that I need to do something to both wheels, I can drop them both at the same time without having to reposition the bike. The clamp is much more convenient.

Remember, I have tried the other method. I wasn't impressed.


If removing and reinstalling a wheel is harder for you than removing and correctly reinstalling a seatpost, you need to improve your mechanic skills.

No need to get snippy. However, the same could be said about your issue. There is nothing difficult about installing a seat post. In fact, it's probably simpler than reinstalling a wheel. I doubt that you could crush a carbon post in a clamp stand unless the tension on the spring is set very, very tight. Seatposts have a much smaller diameter than frame tubes.


Look at what the pro teams use. All bottom-bracket support stands.

Pro teams use all kind of stuff. I'm not particularly impressed with that comparison. And look where they are using them...out in the field. What do shops use? Clamp stands...in a shop That's much closer to what the non-Pro rider might need at home.


The bottom line here is that those who haven't ever used a modern bottom-bracket/PRS-20 stand for any time will never agree that they're better technology. They're stuck in the past with clamp stands. These threads come up from time to time and I guess they're just pointless.

The PRS-20 isn't 'modern'. I had a Minoura that was essentially the same design (without the ability to clamp the rear wheel) in the 1980s. I have used the bottom-bracket stand. It's not superior in any way.

If removing and reinstalling a wheel is harder for you than removing and correctly reinstalling a seatpost, you need to improve your mechanic skills.



not that it is particularity harder but removing wheels is too slow and inefficient

I bought this one: http://www.feedbacksports.com/products/Sport-mechanic_repair_stand.aspx and love the thing...very easy to adjust and so compact.

I bought this one: http://www.feedbacksports.com/products/Sport-mechanic_repair_stand.aspx and love the thing...very easy to adjust and so compact.


+1 on the Feed Back I love mine.:):)

I wish Feedback used Allen bolts rather than slotted bolts in its clamps. Mine is hard to get tight enough to keep the bike from slipping down. I'll replace it sometime or try loctite.

For the seat post, consider swapping your carbon one for aluminum. You won't notice any difference in ride quality.

I bought this one: http://www.feedbacksports.com/products/Sport-mechanic_repair_stand.aspx and love the thing...very easy to adjust and so compact.

That's the one I have as well, it has been great!


I wish Feedback used Allen bolts rather than slotted bolts in its clamps. Mine is hard to get tight enough to keep the bike from slipping down. I'll replace it sometime or try loctite.

Does yours not have the thumbscrews for the telescoping part?

No, mine is the Pro Ultralight.
http://www.feedbacksports.com/products/pro-ultralight_repair_stand.aspx

I just sent an email to Feedback to see if they have a better bolt.

Update:
Sammy at Feedback helped out.
There's a locking mechanism between the clamp and the shim.
I removed the bolt and rotated the clamp until it locked into place.
Tightened it down and now it holds like a champ.

I wish Feedback used Allen bolts rather than slotted bolts in its clamps. Mine is hard to get tight enough to keep the bike from slipping down. I'll replace it sometime or try loctite.

For the seat post, consider swapping your carbon one for aluminum. You won't notice any difference in ride quality.

I hate to get off topic, but I made the swap from aluminum to carbon seatpost on a Cannondale 2.8 frame (before the CAADs) and I noticed a significant improvement in reduction of "butt buzz". Same thing with the fork.

Back on track: I just ordered a Feedback stand and am curious as to what you mean by slotted bolts.

I just meant a bolt that uses a regular screwdriver to tighten it on the clamp.

got a feedback sports mechanic stand. I think it is much nicer and far more portable than a PCS-10 stand I was borrowing off a friend.

got a feedback sports mechanic stand. I think it is much nicer and far more portable than a PCS-10 stand I was borrowing off a friend.

That's great to hear. That is the one I ordered, it should be here in a day or two. I'm pretty excited.

I have a PCS-10 and love it. It's a solid, sturdy stand for sure. Anything short of shoulder checking it, it's not toppling over with your bike, even when spinning through the gears. I have a 31 pound Sojourn, working on it with the stand all the way up it's still rock solid. Cheapest price I found anywhere was treefortbikes.com, around $125.

I almost bought the PCS-20. What a pain it would have been to remove a wheel every time I wanted to put my bike in the stand! Sure, it's not like dropping a wheel out of the bike is as much of a hassle as building a wheel, but it's still a hassle. One extra step you won't have to take. I have disc brakes that get adjusted every time the bike is in the stand. It's nice to have both of the wheels mounted at once to get that done.

Plus if you have something quick to do you can just leave the clamp open horizontally, balance the top tube on it, do your thing and go.

No, mine is the Pro Ultralight.
http://www.feedbacksports.com/products/pro-ultralight_repair_stand.aspx

I just sent an email to Feedback to see if they have a better bolt.

Update:
Sammy at Feedback helped out.
There's a locking mechanism between the clamp and the shim.
I removed the bolt and rotated the clamp until it locked into place.
Tightened it down and now it holds like a champ.

Good to hear


got a feedback sports mechanic stand. I think it is much nicer and far more portable than a PCS-10 stand I was borrowing off a friend.

I have to agree about the portability, which is a big reason I got the same stand over the Park Tools one since I don't have a garage to keep it in, but do have a small shed to keep it in (along with the bikes). Not to mention that it stands on a tripod so I can use it in the backyard or other uneven surfaces and it is nice and stable.