Bicycle Mechanics - How do I release these brakes to remove wheel?

I have a 2011 SE Draft Lite. Anyone have any idea how to release these brakes in order to remove the wheel? I am quite new to this, and I can't seem find any of the quick release mechanisms described in various videos and web pages. The brakes are described on the SE web site as "radius alloy dual pivot with quick release" and they look like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/31429267@N03/4274105645/

Thanks in advance for any tips.

On the lower brake arm there should be a swivel or "switch" that will loosen the tension on the brakes.

It'll be the part that's just outside of the picture's lower left side edge.

those brakes dont have a qr. adjust the brake so their is more slack, deflate tire or give the wheel a good fist bump

Strange that they clearly say that there is a quick release on the se bikes web site, but you must be right. I actually did use the fist bump method. Is that really ok, not damaging the brakes am a I?
Thanks much for the quick responses, this forum is awesome!

those brakes dont have a qr. adjust the brake so their is more slack, deflate tire or give the wheel a good fist bump

I agree. that is a bad set up if you want to take the front tire off to transport it.

the funny thing about this post is the bike is right outside a bikeshop!!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/31429267@N03/4274105337/in/photostream/

All else fails, Pneumatic QR .. let air out of the tire.

Yea ,walk back into that bike shop and get a different caliper with a QR.

those brakes dont have a qr. adjust the brake so their is more slack, deflate tire or give the wheel a good fist bump

Or simply remove one brake pad when you need to remove the wheel.

Two QR locations are used for side pulls. Neither is shown in your photo. The first location , as others have mentioned, is where the cable is attached to the brake. The second location is the brake lever. We might be better able to help you, if you posted pictures of both locations.

I suppose that you might be able to remove the cable from the brake lever as a sort of quick release. It's not the most effective way of doing it for sure, but slightly easier than deflating the tire, or removing a brake lever.

With those fatty tires you may have to deflate like fietsbob says even if you do locate a release.

If you setup the brake while the knurled knob adjuster where cable enters the caliper is screwed way out then when you remove your wheel you can screw the adjuster in to give a few millimeters more tire clearance.

If it were my bike and I did a lot of front wheel removal, I'd probably just run 25s on there.

I suppose that you might be able to remove the cable from the brake lever as a sort of quick release. It's not the most effective way of doing it for sure, but slightly easier than deflating the tire, or removing a brake lever.

That's my thought also. You could adjust the barrel adjuster on the lever (if there is one) so that screwing it all the way back in would provide enough slack to disconnect the cable from the brake lever. Not especially "quick", but it'll work.

I had the same question about a month ago. It was pointed out to me that there is a little button on the brake hood that, when pressed, will allow the brake lever itself to move a little forward, producing a little slack on the cable and allowing the brakes to open up a little further.

See if you have the little button.

No hoods on the bike in photos. BMX/MTB/Cross top type lever.

Need to see the lever.

The brakes are described on the SE web site as "radius alloy dual pivot with quick release" and they look like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/31429267@N03/4274105645/

Am I the only one who thinks that looks more like a single-pivot brake than a dual? If the website's wrong about the type of brake, it could just as easily be wrong about the quick release...

Nope. Most definitely a single pivot.
One of the shots in the flickr account doesn't even have a front brake at all! :twitchy:

Then there's the fact that the flickr pics say 2010 SE, whereas OP sez 2011.

I think the OP should just get some 700c x 18 tires and then there would be no worries at all. ;)

Here are some shots of the actual bike. The first one was just something I found in a google search. Let me know if you need more shots from different angles. I didn't take a shot of the top of the lever because there didn't seem to be anything there.

Larger pictures here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/115273912266283625454/Apr10201102#5593942099331413042
https://picasaweb.google.com/115273912266283625454/Apr10201102#5593942111574211170
https://picasaweb.google.com/115273912266283625454/Apr102011#5593942023121071010

that lever is like a basic MTB lever. the only way to get a halfway QR is to build some potential for slack in the system via the adjusting barrel.

unless you need a long reach brake get something nicer like a bacis shimano exage type

+1 .. loosen the cable, back out the adjusters a ways, then re adjust,
re tighten the cable anchor bolt.

Nope. Most definitely a single pivot.
One of the shots in the flickr account doesn't even have a front brake at all! :twitchy:

Then there's the fact that the flickr pics say 2010 SE, whereas OP sez 2011.

I think the OP should just get some 700c x 18 tires and then there would be no worries at all. ;)

I suspect they put the cheapest Chang-Star brakes they could buy on to meet legal requirements with the expectation that fixie riders would take them off. The 2011 looks like it has slightly nicer brakes, though.

I suspect they put the cheapest Chang-Star brakes they could buy on to meet legal requirements with the expectation that fixie riders would take them off. The 2011 looks like it has slightly nicer brakes, though.

This should be the 2011 model. It looks exactly like this: http://bikereviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/2011-se-draft-draft-lite-fixed-gear-5.jpg

Is it possible that my bike shop stripped the factory brakes and put on cheaper ones? If so is this a common practice or should I avoid this shop? Could the manufacturer put them on or misrepresented them on the web site?

Thanks for all the info!

This should be the 2011 model. It looks exactly like this: http://bikereviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/2011-se-draft-draft-lite-fixed-gear-5.jpg

Is it possible that my bike shop stripped the factory brakes and put on cheaper ones? If so is this a common practice or should I avoid this shop? Could the manufacturer put them on or misrepresented them on the web site?

Thanks for all the info!

It's possible they changed mid-year. The brakes in that picture are single pivot, while the picture on the SE website shows dual pivot: http://www.sebikes.com/graphics/draftlite-red-front.png

Note the lack of a big pivot bolt sticking out, and the more 'modern' smooth shape of the caliper arms. The single pivot brakes look like clones of old Dia-Compe brakes.

I guess I'd go get a lever with a quick-release.

If you keep those brakes, you might be able to squeeze the brake lever, hold the brake caliper closed and release the cable from the lever to give you a sort of quick release-like function. Looks like the cable end can be slipped out of the lever. I might be wrong, but it looks like it might work from the photos.

If you keep those brakes, you might be able to squeeze the brake lever, hold the brake caliper closed and release the cable from the lever to give you a sort of quick release-like function. Looks like the cable end can be slipped out of the lever. I might be wrong, but it looks like it might work from the photos.

I think that you may be right some of those levers had the aduster and nut on the brake levers with a groove cut in them so you could release the cable that way

Kind of like these old mountain bike levers
old levers (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bustercrb/sets/72157626494244880/)

The simplest way is the one that was mentioned earlier.
You have a barrell adjuster on your brake lever and your caliper.
Screw both barrell adjusters all the way in. Then set your brake cable so that you can get the wheel out w/o deflating the tire. Once you have achieved this, then back the barrell adjusters out so that your brakes stop you.
Otherwise you'd want to purchase similar brake calipers witha quick release on the caliper.