Classic & Vintage - Toe hitting front Tire when Turning on 50 cm Jamis quest 2003?

Weird Question:
I test rode a 50 cm 2003 Jamis Quest today and I loved the bike... except that my toe hit the front tire of the bike when peddling as I turn the bike and as the wheel is turned. Does anyone know about this in small, older frames? Is this normal?
Thanks!

Are you able to move up a size or 2 on frames? Sometimes if the frame fits and you have this problem you have to be aware that you cannot pedal through turns without risking a toe strike. What length are the crank arms? You may be able to use a shorter set of cranks.

"Normal"? That depends on your definition of the term... Common? Yes, especially on smaller frames. The more you ride the bike, the less a problem it tends to be: you just naturally adapt your riding. That said, it could be a symptom of a bent frame and/or fork. See if you can get someone with expertise in that area to look at it. (Or post pics here.)

SP
Bend, OR

I have a couple bikes where I get toe strike. For some people, it's a really big problem. I don't mind it as I don't make turns that sharply where my foot would hit the tire.

I'd say it's normal on road frames. Both my 54 and 55 have toe overlap and never had a problem with that.

Normal. Slow speed turns are really the only time you'll you have an issue so be aware of it.

Just go faster. :D

Normal. I have toe overlap on my 1978 Raleigh Professional Mk V and 1961 Schwinn Paramount P12; large cages on each. The P12's overlap is contributed in part by its Bluemels fenders.

-Kurt

Sucks to be short.
LOL
Its a problem on any small size sporty frame. The head tube angle that gives it that sporty feel also move the wheel closer to the down tube. Any time you build a bike with 27 or 700 you start having to make compromises in the geometry wehn you size down the frame. Thats why some bikes when you get down 50cm and smaller sizes go with a smaller diameter wheel set like a 650's or you also see Dragster bikes like The Terry's where they have a full size rear wheel for the gearing but a 24 inch front wheel to correct for the size and bring the geometry back in line.
Also as the head tube gets shorter it effects the feel for the frame because there is more flex and movement as the top tube and down tube get closer together. More noticeable with you have to stand and crank up a hill.
as an Example is my wife's 47cm Terry. The smaller front wheel corrects a lot of issues with toe overlap, head tube angle and stiffness.
http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=158374&d=1278333687

That Terry is very strange! Is it a pursuit frame? It looks like 27" on the back and 650c on the front. I've never seen a bike like that that wasn't a fixed gear "pursuit" bike.

That Terry is very strange! Is it a pursuit frame? It looks like 27" on the back and 650c on the front. I've never seen a bike like that that wasn't a fixed gear "pursuit" bike.
When the rider is 6ft it would be a pursuit frame. When the rider is 5ft its a proportionally normal riding position. The Geometry of the main triangle would be comparable to a 60cm frame with a 6ft rider.
If they put a 24 on the back then it throws the gearing all too hell and the rider will have problems keeping up, hence the reason to keep the full size rear wheel.

Its a 27/24 but I am about to put a 700c on the back with 8speed STI 105SC on it.
Little bit from Sheldon on it.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/terry/index.html
Look at yesterdays posts. There is Terry frame thread with LOTS of pictures. Several manufactures have sold this style including Raleigh, Miyata Terry and a couple others.

I'd say it's normal on road frames. Both my 54 and 55 have toe overlap and never had a problem with that.

I don't think I've ever ridden a bike that didn't have some toe overlap....... 'cept maybe that Cadillac cruiser I found on the freeway last summer.

It's never been a problem, though. Cornering at any rolling speed really doesn't take much front wheel deflection off of center.

Yes, this is common, because people with shorter legs also tend to have shorter torsos, so the top tube should also shorten as the frame size decreases. If your design is restricted by a specific wheel diameter (e.g. 700C), eventually you will reach a point when toe overlap can become an issue. Although overlap is generally only a concern at low speeds and sharp turns, some people find it disconcerting.

The solution is to reduce the wheel diameter along with frame size. When you use a smaller diameter wheel, overlap does not become an issue until even smaller frame sizes are used. Some companies, e.g. Terry, used a small front wheel (24") with a standard (700C or 27") rear wheel, but this means two different rim, tube and tire sizes for the customer to deal with down the road. Others have used smaller diameter wheels both front and back (24" or 650C). Either solution works, but often high-quality rims, tubes and tires in these smaller sizes are harder to source in the retail market than standard 700C or 27" components.

There is no easy solution, but if toe overlap is a serious concern for you, a smaller wheel or wheels is the best solution.

JPColorado back.... THANK YOU for your informative and prompt responses to my inquiry! You are all so knowledgeable! I did end up buying the 2003 Jamis - took it into a bike shop and they said it looked like it had only been ridden a handful of times and was in EXCELLENT shape. Seller says it has been ridden less than 10 outings! Seller also threw in practically new bike shoes - 3 sets of tubes - bike bag for under the seat and the owners manual. I paid 450.00. I think I got a great deal for a bike in such good shape. Thank you Bike Forums members!

Did you post in Classic and Vintage because the bike was from 2003? :P

Just giving you a hard time. Just in time for the season!