Touring - C&O Canal

I'm 8 months into a tour. I started in Seattle... rode down the coast... then east of the Southern Tier... down to Key West... then up the east coast (taking the Blue Ridge and Sky Line Drive) Now I'm on the C&O Canal... and NOW I KNOW why people have been writing about this awesome place. It's my favorite touring location so far (with the Oregon Coast as a second)

If you haven't toured on the C&O... make plans to do it!!! I'm halfway thru it, and plan on taking the Great Allegheny Passage up to Pittsburgh.

Yup, I'll be on it in about 3 weeks.

There was a thread posted 4 days ago about the C&O being flooded. That was the day I started on the trail, and I guess most of the water has receded. There was one hiker/biker campsite that was still too wet. I can't remember the name, but it was the first one down-river from Big Woods campsite. There were 2 trees down and covering the trail but I just lugged the bike over or around.

I have lived in Maryland, first in Silver Spring outside Washington and now in Calvert County for a total of 35 yrs. I have ridden on the C&O Canal Tow Path, but haven't gotten around to riding the full length. This summer I plan to ride cross country, using the Lewis & Clark trail and Northern Tier and then coming down the Alleghany Passage and Tow Path. All I can say is it is about time.

Boondock,

Did you ride the GAP too?

Any chance you were near Monaca, PA last Sunday before noon?

I'm 8 months into a tour. I started in Seattle... rode down the coast... then east of the Southern Tier... down to Key West... then up the east coast (taking the Blue Ridge and Sky Line Drive) Now I'm on the C&O Canal... and NOW I KNOW why people have been writing about this awesome place. It's my favorite touring location so far (with the Oregon Coast as a second)

If you haven't toured on the C&O... make plans to do it!!! I'm halfway thru it, and plan on taking the Great Allegheny Passage up to Pittsburgh.

It is one of the most amazing places ever. I grew up one mile from it in Maryland, near DC. There used to be a rope swing that was straight out of a huckleberry finn story just north of Sycamore Island. One big branch of the tree stretched out about 50 feet out, 10 feet above the water where we hung the ladder to get back out, and there would regularly be a hammock up. My buddy and I took the swings from my jungle jim when we got old enough that my parents took it down and we hung them at the end so you could dangle your feet in what felt like the middle of the river. The other branch went high up and out, which is where we tied the rope. The first warm day of the year, you would find 30 people stretched across the tree. And since it was right near Sycamore Island, where my buddy was a member, we could rent canoos for free to take there. Sadly, someone got badly hurt there and the government cut the tree down. The trunk (about as big as a car) is all covered in vines these days, so much so that it can be hard to find. There was another rope swing further south, but it just didn't compare at all. Don't know if it is still in existence (something I definitely should check out soon).

Anyways, despite the tragic ending of THE rope swing, the canal is still one of my favorite places in the world (when it's not flooded! (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/728813-We-Had-to-Flee-the-Flooding-Yesterday)) and I still live right near it. Planning on riding there tomorrow.

Sounds like an awesome tour & I appreciate your endorsement of C & O Canal. I've rode some short sections as a local & it's very picturesque. The trail surface can be a bit bumpy but OTOH the route avoids lots of hills & high-traffic areas. BTW on the way to Key West did you ride the whole way down from Florida City? Have visited the South Florida area & wondered about that.

Boondock,

Did you ride the GAP too?

Any chance you were near Monaca, PA last Sunday before noon?

I am going to ride the GAP (the Great Allegheny Passage is a trail that connects to the C&O) but I started at the south. I have meet 4 or 5 other bike tourists... (and a couple of homeless people living on bicycles). I'm headed in your direction, but I'm going slow because I need to pick up a general delivery package and I was hoping to receive it in Cumberland MD

I stayed at the Harpers Ferry Hostel during the days when it poured down, which was pretty nice. I'm not a big fan of hostels, but when the skies open up, it was nice to be indoors

spinnaker, if you see a guy towing a Bob in the next 2 weeks, gimme me a shout!

DropBarFan, I did ride from Homestead/Florida City... I took Card Sound Road. They are repaving HWY1 and including some wide shoulders so I would bet that the ACA route may change when that section is finished. In the Keys, there is an independent bicycle path, about halfway to Key West. They are also repaving the roads down there and some of the bike path is getting a new surface as well. If you're planning to tour down there, check out some of my videos and you can get a pretty good idea of the conditions


Sounds like an awesome tour & I appreciate your endorsement of C & O Canal. I've rode some short sections as a local & it's very picturesque. The trail surface can be a bit bumpy but OTOH the route avoids lots of hills & high-traffic areas. BTW on the way to Key West did you ride the whole way down from Florida City? Have visited the South Florida area & wondered about that.

I am going to ride the GAP (the Great Allegheny Passage is a trail that connects to the C&O) but I started at the south. I have meet 4 or 5 other bike tourists... (and a couple of homeless people living on bicycles). I'm headed in your direction, but I'm going slow because I need to pick up a general delivery package and I was hoping to receive it in Cumberland MD

I stayed at the Harpers Ferry Hostel during the days when it poured down, which was pretty nice. I'm not a big fan of hostels, but when the skies open up, it was nice to be indoors

spinnaker, if you see a guy towing a Bob in the next 2 weeks, gimme me a shout!

Oh I understand now. You are headed this way. Not sure of your route but if I can help with a place to crash or whatever just PM me. I am right off PA Bike Route A and right near the Montour Trail. If you want to head West form the Montour then you could take the Pan Handle Trail to Stuebenville, OH though it gets a bit rough after the OH border though not much worse than the C&O. But if you want to take the Panhandle, staying at my place would detour you about 15 miles each way (basically back tracking).

There is a nice hostel at Rockwood. If you hit it during the week there is a chance you ill have it all to yourself. Stop at the Yough Shore Inn, in Boston. You can camp or take a room. But just seeing the rooms are worth the price of admission. Lynn has a theme for all of the rooms and most rooms have had murals painted on the walls. It is a cool place.

Or you can camp at Dravo which is free but no showers and chem toilets. I believe is the only free camping on the GAP.

Also don't even think of camping at Ohiopyle. It is a long hard climb up to the campsite. The trail is very steep and very rocky making it nearly impossible to ride. I would say totally impossible with a trailer.

Instead go another 18 miles or so to Connellsville Campground. It is right off of the trail.

If you want to stay here and want to take the Montour and it is a weekend, I could lead you up the trail. But I must tell you , the trail is nearly twice the distance over going through the city. I could also lead you through the city if it is a day off. Going through the city is not all too bad on a weekend. I'd still do it on a weekday but if I was not used to city riding, I would opt for the trail.

Both routes have their merits. The trail has lots of pretty sections and I think we have as more or certainly as many tunnels as the GAP.

wow spinnaker, thanks alot. I am particularly interested in the routes you mention. I am planning to spend a couple hours at the public library in Williamsport MD to upload videos. I'm going to do some research and route study using the trails you mention.

The Montour looks very good heading west

http://www.panhandletrail.org/images/panhandle%20trail%20map%2024x48.pdf

Also don't even think of camping at Ohiopyle. It is a long hard climb up to the campsite. The trail is very steep and very rocky making it nearly impossible to ride. I would say totally impossible with a trailer.

Instead go another 18 miles or so to Connellsville Campground. It is right off of the trail.

River's Edge, about three miles north of Connellsville on the trail.

Or you can camp at Dravo which is free but no showers and chem toilets. I believe is the only free camping on the GAP.

About 10 miles north of Connellsville is Round Bottom hiker/biker site.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3657/3670581684_0b6dd9fce9_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3626/3670592678_78ec00c313_b.jpg

And about two miles south of West Newton is Cedar Creek Park, which has free camping.

Dravo Cemetery is six miles south of Boston, PA.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2477/3669543263_3189256a41_b.jpg

wow spinnaker, thanks alot. I am particularly interested in the routes you mention. I am planning to spend a couple hours at the public library in Williamsport MD to upload videos. I'm going to do some research and route study using the trails you mention.

The Montour looks very good heading west

http://www.panhandletrail.org/images/panhandle%20trail%20map%2024x48.pdf

The Montour can be a little confusing especially coming from the south. Lots of missing pieces and not well marked.

It would be best if I was there to guide you but in case that cannot be arranged, you should look at their website (http://www.montourtrail.org/)for all of the detours.

I did not know about the campsite at Round Bottom Historian. Thanks I will make a mental note.

There was also talk about putting in a campsite along the Montour though I am not sure what came of it. I'll try to do more research.

I did not know about the campsite at Round Bottom Historian. Thanks I will make a mental note.

There was also talk about putting in a campsite along the Montour though I am not sure what came of it. I'll try to do more research.

Montour campsite is open, although I've not been there. It's near one of the detour sections.

It is one of the most amazing places ever. I grew up one mile from it in Maryland, near DC. There used to be a rope swing that was straight out of a huckleberry finn story just north of Sycamore Island. One big branch of the tree stretched out about 50 feet out, 10 feet above the water where we hung the ladder to get back out, and there would regularly be a hammock up. My buddy and I took the swings from my jungle jim when we got old enough that my parents took it down and we hung them at the end so you could dangle your feet in what felt like the middle of the river. The other branch went high up and out, which is where we tied the rope. The first warm day of the year, you would find 30 people stretched across the tree. And since it was right near Sycamore Island, where my buddy was a member, we could rent canoos for free to take there. Sadly, someone got badly hurt there and the government cut the tree down. The trunk (about as big as a car) is all covered in vines these days, so much so that it can be hard to find. There was another rope swing further south, but it just didn't compare at all. Don't know if it is still in existence (something I definitely should check out soon).

Anyways, despite the tragic ending of THE rope swing, the canal is still one of my favorite places in the world (when it's not flooded! (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/728813-We-Had-to-Flee-the-Flooding-Yesterday)) and I still live right near it. Planning on riding there tomorrow.
I also grew up walking distance to the canal & Sycamore Island. One of the most exhilarating things I've ever done was to go flying down the frozen Potomac on ice skates. A cold front had come thru during the night and there were 40+mph winds. A friend and I took an old blanket and a couple of hockey sticks down to the river. We skated upriver between Sycamore Island and the towpath then out into the middle of the river, then put our hockey sticks in the satin on each end of the blanket. The wind was so powerful that the moment we stuck our blanket/sail into the air, we took off like rockets. Within a second or two, we were flying down the river at the speed of the wind. The river had strangely frozen with the surface having hundreds of low bumps per square yard. The effect was that our whole bodies including our eyeballs vibrated intensely while we were flying down the river over the little bumps, so everything was a blur to our eyes. As we approached Little Falls dam, we veered toward the MD shore to stop. Then we rolled up the blanket and skated upriver (with great difficulty against the wind) to do it again and again, until we were so cold that we couldn't take it any longer.

I'm 8 months into a tour. I started in Seattle... rode down the coast... then east of the Southern Tier... down to Key West... then up the east coast (taking the Blue Ridge and Sky Line Drive) Now I'm on the C&O Canal... and NOW I KNOW why people have been writing about this awesome place. It's my favorite touring location so far (with the Oregon Coast as a second)

If you haven't toured on the C&O... make plans to do it!!! I'm halfway thru it, and plan on taking the Great Allegheny Passage up to Pittsburgh.
I've got to admit, this sort of amazes me, especially given the magnificent scenery you've got in the Pacific Northwest. I grew up near the canal and rode on it a lot as a kid, and I think it's a wonderful place. However, when a friend & I biked from McKeesport to DC a few years ago, we both got somewhat bored with the pleasant but largely unchanging scenery along the length of the towpath. We absolutely loved the GAP Trail, however.

I've got to admit, this sort of amazes me, especially given the magnificent scenery you've got in the Pacific Northwest. I grew up near the canal and rode on it a lot as a kid, and I think it's a wonderful place. However, when a friend & I biked from McKeesport to DC a few years ago, we both got somewhat bored with the pleasant but largely unchanging scenery along the length of the towpath. We absolutely loved the GAP Trail, however.

He hasn't seen the GAP yet. The best is yet to come.....

Montour campsite is open, although I've not been there. It's near one of the detour sections.

Apparently near Cecil.

http://www.montourtrail.org/camping.html

Which is good for the OP if he decides to take the Panhandle and not stay with me. He hits the Panhandle well after Cecil.

The FAQ says there is no camping along the trail yet they have a page that talks about camping. I will have to let Dennis know so he can get that to the right person to have it fixed.

He hasn't seen the GAP yet. The best is yet to come.....

The best near Ohopyle. But the view right before the Big Savage is very beautiful too.

And I like to think there are sections of the Montour that might not be as impressive as Ohiopyle but very scenic in their own right. Especially now when the streams are running big and fast due to all this rain.

I also really like the area around Bethal Park with the horse farm and the tunnel with a bridge at each end. That is one of my favorite areas on the Montour.

Also don't even think of camping at Ohiopyle. It is a long hard climb up to the campsite. The trail is very steep and very rocky making it nearly impossible to ride. I would say totally impossible with a trailer.
.

There's the COE campground right by the dam though...

There's the COE campground right by the dam though...

That's 11 miles south on the trail in Confluence.

I thank all of you for sharing your knowledge about the C&O and the GAP. I've learned alot. I'm currently in Williamsport MD uploading videos (about the C&O). This will not be my last time touring here.

Some great videos! I guess some of the bridges & causeways going to the Keys have a lot of traffic but OTOH most of the motorists seem to be 1/2-way considerate. I've ridden a Dahon folder in the Miami area, even crossed a bridge that turned out to be an interstate. Haven't seen many bike tourists in South Florida but plenty of riders in general, motorists are used to having bikes around. One time a few years ago I saw a big pack of bike tourists on some special organized trip--they all had matching USA-type jerseys but no panniers. Maybe they were heading up to Maine or Wash State on an organized tour. Like your videos of Skyline & BRP...like Florida ideal places to include fenders. 2 years ago I vacationed near Miami in the summer & was amazed at the near-daily torrential downpours. Somehow most of the pedestrians & bikers find a place to seek shelter. Even with the warm temps one could get chilly after being soaked by those rains.

Also on your BRP video you note how light the traffic was...I rode from Buena Vista to Otter Creek a couple of weeks after the peak fall leaf time...weather was still warm but crowds had left. So few cars it was amazing, sometimes 15 minutes between a car passing. Didn't see even one other bike the whole weekend, kinda strange since it's supposed to be popular with bike tourists...I'm sure you remember seeing all the road signs to take care of cyclists. A fair number of moto tourists though.

Good times on the GAPCO
http://vimeo.com/19038392ENJOY!
Sorry for the shameless self promotion but I had a great time here.

Or you can camp at Dravo which is free but no showers and chem toilets. I believe is the only free camping on the GAP.

Several free campsites on the GAP, although most (all) are west of connellsville:

1. Connelsville just built some nice lean-to shelters right on the edge of town. A bit too urban for my tastes, but they are there. Photo at http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/pic/?o=RrzKj&pic_id=870273&v=2&size=large

2. West of Connelsville is Roundbottom Campground. A big campground, right on the river. Photos of it at the bottom of my page at http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=RrzKj&page_id=179549&v=6k

3. Cedar Creek Park has a beautiful, brand-new looking campsite for trail users. Even a nice stone shelter with fireplace looking directly out on the river.

4. Dravo campground, as you mentioned.

Interesting info here. I grew up in Lovettsville VA which is directly across the River (2miles) from Brunswick Md. I live in Richmond now but my first tour was a three day ride from Here to Lovettsville. A friend of mine and I are planning either to take the train to DC and cycle to Lovettsville or just do the whole ride if work will let us....as another poster said I would have thought that growing up in the Pac-NW would have been some pretty spectacular scenery but I guess anytime you go somewhere you haven't been before it can be amazing as well....One thing is for sure anytime I go out west and see how starved for water everything is it never fails to amaze me how much of a rainforest environment Virginia kinda is. When in Cost Rica once the hostel owner commented how the bugs had been waiting for some white kids like us to show up. I quickly pointed out I was from Virginia....and that the mosquitos were nothing new for me (although the jumping posionous snakes were). Thanks for posting so I can begin my research and get out to the C&O this year!

you guys are awesome... thanks so much for the recon of whats coming up for me. And thanks briwasson for the pics on the CGOAB journal. I will probably stay in those shelters in the next week or 2.

If you have not yet passed Sharpsburg (Antietam), I recommend a side trip to see the battlefield and especially an ice cream stop at Nutters's in downtown Sharpsburg. The auto road through the north and central parts of the battelfield and some of the paths around Stone (Burnside's) Bridge and the heights west of there are bikeable (a few steep spots on thos heights). If you do, exiting the canal around Taylor's Landing or (better?) Snyder's Landing may be preferable to the climb up to Rt 34 at the Shepardstown bridge. Nice downhill run back to the towpath via 34 or (better) Haper's Ferry Rd & Canal Rd (comes out by Antietam Creek and the big H&B campground). With all the water coming down-river, be sure to stop @ Great Falls NP in MD and check out the falls!

If trail conditions get too difficult (more t-storms and rain forecast for Wed PM and Thursday), you can cross into VA at Bruswick MD or White's Ferry (if ferry is open) and you can ride down to the W&OD trail; several bike shops along it and easy access via W&OD and Custis trails to DC near the C&O terminus. Have a safe & great ride!

wow.. the thunderstorms last night (yikes) but looks like good weather for the next 5 days. I holding the miles back to be able to pick up a general delivery package in Hancock MD (with my new camera, yay!). I want to vlog about the C&O and GAP as much as possible. I'm planning to stay at the C&O Bicycle shop in Hancock, I spoke to a south-bounder who stayed in their "Bunkhouse" and that seems like a good place.

please excuse the crappiness of these 3 vids using my old cam but it gives you a pretty good idea of what the C&O looks like.

C&O part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yO-bA7TCZlc)
C&O part2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10w9F4NbF7c)
C&O part 3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dR0yBT0NCdM)

One thing is for sure anytime I go out west and see how starved for water everything is it never fails to amaze me how much of a rainforest environment Virginia kinda is.

A couple of years ago I was surprised to learn that Northern Virginia gets more rain than London UK. Virginia can be pretty damp with lots of bugs at times, glasses are a must for bikers during warm weather. Blue Ridge Mountains get even more precipitation than the DC area. Makes for nice lush greenery, just make sure to bring your GoreTex! I remember spectating at the Tour of America pro cycle race...after one cold & rainy April stage in Richmond I saw a Danish rider shivering uncontrollably afterwards. I'm guessing they looked at the avg temps & didn't realize how variable the weather is.

wow.. the thunderstorms last night (yikes) but looks like good weather for the next 5 days. I holding the miles back to be able to pick up a general delivery package in Hancock MD (with my new camera, yay!). I want to vlog about the C&O and GAP as much as possible. I'm planning to stay at the C&O Bicycle shop in Hancock, I spoke to a south-bounder who stayed in their "Bunkhouse" and that seems like a good place.

please excuse the crappiness of these 3 vids using my old cam but it gives you a pretty good idea of what the C&O looks like.

C&O part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yO-bA7TCZlc)
C&O part2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10w9F4NbF7c)
C&O part 3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dR0yBT0NCdM)

The bunkhouse is cool...don't forget to go into town and get some pie...mmmmm
Great videos by the way!

The bunkhouse is cool...don't forget to go into town and get some pie...mmmmm
Great videos by the way!

Yes, by all means visit Weaver's.

Was just at Weaver's this last weekend with the wife on our short saturday 20 mile ride from Fort Frederick. Great food and people... the hostess said you wouldn't believe the number of people that have seen that place mentioned either in the video or our the forums and stop by. She also said they originally didn't want to be in John Urman's "On the Canal" video but are glad they did.

PS if you need bike work Denny at C and O bikes was a great help with my squeaky "driveline" on Saturday even when the shop was closed

Enjoyed the videos and can't wait to see more!

Mike