Bicycle Mechanics - Tool buying advice

I've gotten a little more serious with my riding and wrenching this year, at least I'm trying to with the wrenching! I bought a Raleigh Sojourn and a Park PCS-10 stand. I'm looking to buy all of the tools I need to work on my bike myself. Right now I have set of Craftsman wrenches, sockets and allen wrenches, a Park 4/5/6mm allen wrench, a Park spoke wrench, Park floor pump ...and that's about it. So basically I can put the bike up in the air and look at it. :D

I'd like to stick with buying Park tools. I need to find out which tools/sizes to buy for crank, BB, and cassette work. The Sojourn has a Shimano FC-R453 Octalink 30/39/50t crank and an Octalink BB. From what I've researched I think I need

this
http://www.parktool.com/product/crank-wrench-ccw-5

this
http://www.parktool.com/product/crank-puller-for-splined-cranks-CCP-44

and this
http://www.parktool.com/product/cassette-lockring-tool-fr-5

..and a chain whip.

Do those look right? I can't find the right bottom bracket tool for the Octalink. I think it's this one but I'm not sure
http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-22

Just figured I'd ask the real bike mechanics before I played the return-this-one-and-try-another-one game through the mail! Thanks for any help.

A link to the bike specs - http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/steel-road/sojourn-11/

i like the cassette lock ring tool with the guide pin but have both. i would pass on the crank wrench. also prefer my crank puller without handle

All look good, inc the bbt-22, I like the crank puller with the handle, just personal preferance. for the crank wrench, have never used that one, just an 8mm wrench for the crank bolt, then use the puller

i like the cassette lock ring tool with the guide pin but have both. i would pass on the crank wrench. also prefer my crank puller without handle

Thanks, in case you can't tell I know noting about working on cranks and bottom brackets. If I'm right (probably not!) I don't even need the crank wrench, this 8mm wrench will work?

http://www.parktool.com/uploads/thumbnails/uploads/products/186901956d7f223f0b4357059131c06592a3bc06_800x700.jpg

http://www.biking.com/files/cache/fc-r4531_f4540ad814b9948753d50c350c433fef.jpg

jimc101 beat me to it :) The hex wrench just loosens the crank bolt then I still need the puller? I need to run through Sheldon Brown's site again, and again. Crank work is confusing when you're a noob.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/crank-removal-installation-isis-drive-or-octalink

For that crank, you need a puller. With or without a handle is personal preference. You remove the fixing bolt, then screw the extractor into the crank arm. IT pushes against the spindle, forcing the crank off. You shouldn't need to do this except to replace the crank, chain rings, or the bottom bracket, none of which you're likely to be doing often.

Add my name to the list of people who prefer the cassette lockring tool with the little peg to hold it in place. It'll probably last you the rest of your life so you might as well buy the good one.

Likewise, I prefer the Shimano brand BB tool to the Park. It sets closer to the BB so it doesn't tip as much when you're trying to remove a stubborm bottom bracket.

Also, put a chain breaker and a cable cutter on your list. You'll probably need those before you have a use for crank or bottom bracket tools. I also prefer Shimano cable cutters to Park although I suspect Park has improved their cable cutter since I bought my last one. At some point you will probably need some hub cone wrenches too.

Cone wrenches in various sizes are pretty handy to have too.

Add my name to the list of people who prefer the cassette lockring tool with the little peg to hold it in place. It'll probably last you the rest of your life so you might as well buy the good one.

Likewise, I prefer the Shimano brand BB tool to the Park. It sets closer to the BB so it doesn't tip as much when you're trying to remove a stubborm bottom bracket.

Also, put a chain breaker and a cable cutter on your list. You'll probably need those before you have a use for crank or bottom bracket tools. I also prefer Shimano cable cutters to Park although I suspect Park has improved their cable cutter since I bought my last one. At some point you will probably need some hub cone wrenches too.
Generally I find the one with the retainer pin to be nicer. However, every now and then I run in to some idiot who put in a solid axle or left it sticking WAY too far out. Generally I use a quick release (without the springs) to replace the pin.

As for the crank puller, the Park non-arm version has heads for both square taper and hollow spindles. With the armed ones you would need two if you wanted to be able to pull all (most) cranks.

I'll check out the Shimano BB tool, there's nothing wrong with buying a tool made by the same manufacturer that made the part I'm working on.

I found an 8mm hex wrench laying around, tried it and it's too small so I need the 10mm. I wasn't sure about that, guess that answers that.

I forgot about the chain tool I got a couple weeks ago, I have a Park CT-5. I just need to get a few spare links and a master link.

I'm getting my old x-mart bike put together just to Craigslist it. For that I'll need cable cutters/crimpers, cable/ends... I'll also check out the Shimano cutters.

The two complaints I've seen from Sojourn owners (besides it's aircraft carrier weight) are the cheap-o hubs and the BB. As much as folks complain about the crappy Joytech hubs I didn't run across one person who actually had one fail. The bottom bracket is another story, I've seen quite a few people having to replace them. I might as well get the tools to do it myself. I wouldn't mind fixing up yard sale bikes and CLing them, once I'm more familiar with what I'm doing.

Is there a do-all/end-all of grease for BBs? That'll probably start a 75 page debate on grease. Nevermind, I'll just search thread titles for "best grease". Don't want to start a war or anything :D

As for the crank puller, the Park non-arm version has heads for both square taper and hollow spindles. With the armed ones you would need two if you wanted to be able to pull all (most) cranks.

Done, thanks. I didn't even know the CWP-7 was the same tool, or more like 2-in-1, just without the handle. Awesome.

Being a rookie sucks.

Yep, you can't pull old TA crank arms with it like you could the old Park ones, but you won't likely need to do that for quite a while.