Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Converting a 70's Ross to fixed

I have to admit when I first heard about fixed gears I thought "why" but now that my Ross is going to be playing second fiddle to my Specialized Allez Pro, I thought "why not"

The only real questions I have are about gearing, I have two crank sets to choose from, both are 170mm, both have 52/40 sprockets. So far in my reading about the subject I have understood shorter than normal cranks is better, my normal length is 175mm.

I can remove the 40 tooth sprockets from both, but the 52 tooth are not removable.

So I'm thinking of going with a 40/17 gearing to start with, and just leave the 52 tooth alone.

The largest cog I can find is a 21 tooth so I don't think a 52/21 will work.

any thoughts?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF3819.jpg

40 to a 16 would be great. I run 46/16 and It either kicks my butt or feels great to me.

Cut the higher gears off with a hack saw. Leave the 40 tooth. If you really want, remove the cottered crank and replace it with a tapered. But it's hard to even find a good cheap tapered without the bike already having it.

also, 52/21 would be about the same as 40/16, but if it works out for you, stick to 52/21. I don't know about your chain, but you might need to get a new longer one.

Normally the choice between using the inside or outside chainring is based on which of them will give you the best chainline with the rear cog. Typically the inside chainring works best when using a road double crankset with a road bottom bracket spindle length. As to gearing, it seems to me that 52 x 21 is already pretty low, but 22T cogs are available if you really want to go that low.

That's why I'm thinking of starting with the 40/17, for chainline mainly, I know I may end up getting another cog or two before I'm done.

Both cranks are SR square taper.... I'll use whichever gives me the best chainline

#1 is a cheapie stamped and riveted...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4501.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4502.jpg

#2 is a little better quality..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4503.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4504.jpg

Looking at these 2 cogs...

http://cgi.ebay.com/KT-TRACK-FIXED-GEAR-COG-LOCKRING-WASHER-3-1-KIT-17T-/270541420993?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3efd8679c1#ht_2094wt_1150

http://cgi.ebay.com/Fixed-Gear-Track-Cog-lock-ring-1-8-17t-ALLOY-40g-/110678774621?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c4f8135d#ht_1711wt_907

I'm thinking steel...

Aluminum cogs wear out very quickly and aluminum lockrings are prone to stripping. Definitely get steel. Also, stay away from cheap stamped steel cogs; pay a bit more and get machined and hardened steel cogs and lockrings.

I can't seem to find any steel ones that aren't stamped...

I can't seem to find any steel ones that aren't stamped...

Try here >>> http://www.retro-gression.com/product/track-cog

>>> http://www.retro-gression.com/product/stainless-steel-lock-ring

Thanks, shipping is reasonable too!

If your just riding it around town, 40x16 would be a great ratio. As long as you don't go down a big hill (huuugggee cadence)

It says the lock ring is left hand threaded so that's for a track hub right?

http://www.retro-gression.com/product/stainless-steel-lock-ring


On another note I needed to replace my front rim so I placed an add on CL and I just brought home a set of Wolber modelle 58 Super champion 36H 27" complete wheels with a 6 spd freewheel and skewers the front hub says "MALLARD Made in France", rear has a sticker that says "Helio Matic Peugeot"

I ordered the 16T from retrogression, they answered the question about the lock ring, I just need to check the LBS for a BB lockring to use.

Next question will the Frenchie hub still have the English threads? the Freewheel has the goofiest multi splined nut I've ever seen.... I thought Suntours were bad!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4516.jpg

Sheldon suggests that French-threaded hubs are extremely rare. More detail about the heliomatic, here (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/velos.html).

Aye, so BB lockring. You're going suicide?

So, how do you plan on mounting a threaded cog on a heliomatic hub?

Sheldon suggests that French-threaded hubs are extremely rare. More detail about the heliomatic, here (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/velos.html).

Aye, so BB lockring. You're going suicide?

No I'm keeping the brakes!


So, how do you plan on mounting a threaded cog on a heliomatic hub?

I wasn't sure what it was until I read the article, I'll probably search ebay for a suitable 36h hub for a replacement in the future. I only needed the front wheel anyway.

IT could be an excuse to get a proper track hub.........

The smallest cog screws on, yes? Unless it's some kind of Mallard propriety size.

Granted, chainline would be ridiculous.

Best off lacing in a decent hub.

OK so now I'm getting a Flip flop hub to lace into the Wolber rim, should I go with 16t/18t? or will I have enuff room in my 3.5 cm dropout to go 16t/19t?

In the meantime I have the stock rim ready for my 16t cog, and have a BB lockring.

Don't mind the dirt.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4536.jpg

will I have enuff room in my 3.5 cm dropout to go 16t/19t?

Yes. You need about 1/8" (.32mm) per tooth change in the dropout, so 3 teeth is about 1 cm. You've got plenty of room.

Looks like the Post Office delivered my 16T today, so I may be making a ride around the block tonight, should I be using my clippless pedals?

I got the chain on, need to trim my axle about 4mm, and put new bearings in the front hub, and I'm ready to go!

Chainline with the 40/16 looks great! but I'll wait a few miles before I cut off the 50T.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4551.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4553.jpg

It's getting too late to ride her.... do I dare take the maiden voyage on the way to work tomorrow?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4557.jpg

It's getting too late to ride her.... do I dare take the maiden voyage on the way to work tomorrow?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4557.jpg


I say do it, worst that can happen is you fall :p

I chickened out! I'll give a ride report after work today!

First ride report:

How do you all do it? I kept wanting to coast, but the bike wouldn't let me! At one point I got going fairly fast and got scared and took my feet off the pedals (note to self.... don't do that)

I was afraid to use my clipless, but I think they will be an advantage.

Don't get me wrong I loved it and am looking forward to many miles! The 40/16 combo seems to be just about right, and I should be able to tackle most of the hills around here. I'll get a 19 for the other side once I build my flip/flop wheel.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4560.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4564.jpg

angel ive never ridden a fixie but plan to get a single speed. just curious... you look like your about 290... do you feel the crank or frame flexing while pedaling? im a pretty big guy myself and have always been skeptical of the road bike because of my size. do you feel that weight is of concern on a bike made out of chopsticks? should i focus on a beefy frame or can i get away with a thinner one?

I have always loved lugged steel frames, they have the right feel for me, I had a Ti/CF frame for a very short time and I hated it.

This Ross has a fairly thin frame and I can feel some flex but it feels good.

Ok so I have been riding to work the past few days and I have to wonder why I ever thought fixed gears were dumb... I haven't had this much fun on a bike in a long time.

I still have to get used to the idea of pedaling through a turn...

AND my first emergency stop today yielded a 20 foot fishtailing skid, it was fun when I told the story later but scared the crap out of me at the time...

Flip flop hub came in the mail yesterday! So the Heliomatic hub came off the Wolbler rim, and since the spokes were crap I took the spokes from my old steel front wheel, and laced up the hub in a 4 cross pattern.

spoke source....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4673.jpg

Really nice Shimano front hub (off the steel wheel), will be replacing the Malliard very soon...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4677.jpg

All laced and tensioned and trued...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4675.jpg

nice chainline...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4682.jpg



cut off the 50t... before....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4503.jpg

After...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4683.jpg


Ohh yeah got a fugly rack off CL too...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4679.jpg

Stay w/ toe clips and straps unless you're VERY good at track standing. I've been commuting on mine for over a year and still haven't gotten track stands down. Although I don't practice as much as I should...

As far as rear cog choice, I have the smallest as my main gear...48/15 and if I'm really tuckered out I could flip the wheel and run the 16, but I hardly ever do that...

So far I'm doing really good with the eggbeaters, pedals and straps confuse me....

I'm getting a 13 for the flipside.

For her maiden voyage, we put at least 10 miles on it this evening, out of the driveway I got about 3 or 4 pings out of the spokes (not bad for a first time wheelbuilder) and she stayed true the whole time! I'm getting ready to recheck the tension now.

The only problem I had was I didn't tighten the chainring bolts well enough, but I didn't lose any, which is good since I just have 3.

Ok so I have been riding to work the past few days and I have to wonder why I ever thought fixed gears were dumb... I haven't had this much fun on a bike in a long time.
I felt the same way when I first started riding fixed, but now it's essentially the only one I ride with the exception of planned 3 hour long rides through hilly terrain.

I still have to get used to the idea of pedaling through a turn...
That's pretty scary if you have longer cranks. Especially on conversions. Road bikes usually have a lower bottom bracket height. That's why I ended up getting a track bike (they're designed with higher bottom brackets)....They tend to be more succeptable to pedal strike....

The cranks are 171.5's and the BB seems to have pretty good clearance through the turns.

So far my silver Longboard fenders, bar tape, bell and front hub and 13t have yet to arrive, but I did modify a longer stem, change the handlebars, and make hub shiners.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4773.jpg
front
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4895.jpg
rear
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF4893.jpg

I really hope I'm done with it now.... but I still have to remove the braze-ons from the derailers and touch up the paint.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF5027.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF5028.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/angelpena/DSCF5026.jpg

I'd leave the braze-ons alone in case you decide to sell the frame or build it up as a geared bike again one day.

So how's the fixed riding going? and I just noticed you've got drop-in bars....

I'm loving riding it, my multis haven't been ridden for over a month, with the exception of our tandem.


I always loved the look of the Scott drop-ins and thanks to eBay I finally have a set. They are so comfy, I wish I didn't have bar ends on my other 2 roadies!

I have no need to ever switch it back so I'm going to sell the other hubs and derailers.