Bikeforums.net is a forum about nothing but bikes. Our community can help you find information about hard-to-find and localized information like bicycle tours, specialties like where in your area to have your recumbent bike serviced, or what are the best bicycle tires and seats for the activities you use your bike for.Ed Holland
11-01-04, 04:49 AM
Hi folks,
Yesterday's ride was cut short when I felt the bike squirming around with that flat tire feeling. I looked down to check and saw the rear wheel - apparently wobbling miles out of true. On dismounting I gave the wheel a spin to check it - it looked true but loose. The next thing that occurred to me was that the QR had come undone and when I checked that and looked things over I saw what no-one wants to see. The rear dropout had broken clean through in the section leading to where it was brazed into the right side chainstay.
At this point, a degree of horror and panic set in, since I was a good 50min /14 miles out from home. I started walking, but that was no fun in cycling shoes so gingerly tried to saddle up and ride back. That took approx 2 hours and things were OK as long as gentle pressure on the pedals was maintained - this would hold the break together, otherwise things were decidedly insecure. The worst of it was seeing other cyclists look at me as if I was one of those sunday-afternooners doing 6-10 mph with all the gear but no fitness. Lucky though, that it gave way just before a fast downhill section and not during....
Anyhow - the frame is totally buggered. It is not worth repairing as it is an old plain gauge steel Peugeot "Carbolite" from a 10-speed that I bought second-hand about 7 years ago. Sad loss of an old friend really since although she was a little heavy, the bike was a really good fit. The most annoying part is that I had just lovingly stripped and repainted the frame - I'm surprised I did not notice any signs of the crack.
The good news is that most of the components are new, so I'm in the market for a nice new frame & forks to fit out. I'd be grateful for ideas in this department, up to a value of about £200 ( $350 US). I would be able to buy in the UK or US and would prefer conventional straight top tube design with mounts for down-tube shift levers.
Cheers,
Ed
Yesterday's ride was cut short when I felt the bike squirming around with that flat tire feeling. I looked down to check and saw the rear wheel - apparently wobbling miles out of true. On dismounting I gave the wheel a spin to check it - it looked true but loose. The next thing that occurred to me was that the QR had come undone and when I checked that and looked things over I saw what no-one wants to see. The rear dropout had broken clean through in the section leading to where it was brazed into the right side chainstay.
At this point, a degree of horror and panic set in, since I was a good 50min /14 miles out from home. I started walking, but that was no fun in cycling shoes so gingerly tried to saddle up and ride back. That took approx 2 hours and things were OK as long as gentle pressure on the pedals was maintained - this would hold the break together, otherwise things were decidedly insecure. The worst of it was seeing other cyclists look at me as if I was one of those sunday-afternooners doing 6-10 mph with all the gear but no fitness. Lucky though, that it gave way just before a fast downhill section and not during....
Anyhow - the frame is totally buggered. It is not worth repairing as it is an old plain gauge steel Peugeot "Carbolite" from a 10-speed that I bought second-hand about 7 years ago. Sad loss of an old friend really since although she was a little heavy, the bike was a really good fit. The most annoying part is that I had just lovingly stripped and repainted the frame - I'm surprised I did not notice any signs of the crack.
The good news is that most of the components are new, so I'm in the market for a nice new frame & forks to fit out. I'd be grateful for ideas in this department, up to a value of about £200 ( $350 US). I would be able to buy in the UK or US and would prefer conventional straight top tube design with mounts for down-tube shift levers.
Cheers,
Ed