Bicycle Mechanics - Track hub axle wont spin when lockring is tight

I just installed a new cog on my track hub, tightened with the rotafix method. When I tried to tighten the lockring, the axle barely spins there is so much friction. I tried adjusting the cones but that is not it. The cones are totallly loose but the axle wont spin. As soon as I loosen the lockring the axel spins fine. Any ideas?

Thanks

Your hub is cracked? The cog/lockring threadings are not at all related to axle or its bearings. The two don't even come in contact with eachother. Post a picture of your wheel.

what hub, cog and lockring are you using?


[it makes no sense to me how the lockring affects the axle]

Your hub is cracked? The cog/lockring threadings are not at all related to axle or its bearings. The two don't even come in contact with eachother. Post a picture of your wheel.

I've tried reinstalling the old cog, loosening the cog, but nothing works. As soon as the lockring gets moderately tight (even with a loose cog) the axle slows way, way down.

Here are some pics of the hub. Thanks.

what hub, cog and lockring are you using?


[it makes no sense to me how the lockring affects the axle]

The original cog, hub, and lockring are from a stock se draft lite 2011 which they list as "SE High flange alloy fixed/free 36h hubs". I tried installing an eighthinch 16T track cog.

I used rotafix to loosen the old cog and tighten the new one. Could I have overdone it on the tightening?

it makes no sense to me how the lockring affects the axle

Exactly...

OP: take it to a shop and have them look at it. There's no way the lockring should have anything at all to do with the axle. They don't touch, they're not connected, they shouldn't cause eachother problems.

Tried that, guy said what everyone here has said, they don't have anything to do with each other. He was able to verify that tightening the lock ring did impede the axle. Can anyone recommend a hub or whole rear wheel?

Thanks


Exactly...

OP: take it to a shop and have them look at it. There's no way the lockring should have anything at all to do with the axle. They don't touch, they're not connected, they shouldn't cause eachother problems.

There must be some otherworldly shenanigans going on in your hub. Did you take it to the LWD(Local Witch Doctor) to have the demons chased out?

Personally, I'd just ride it without the lockring. I've put a good amount of time on a rotafixed cog without a lock ring with no issues. I'd stay away from any of those super hip skidz though. Just use your brakes when you really need to stop fast.

Did the hub work previously, before the cog swap?

There must be some otherworldly shenanigans going on in your hub. Did you take it to the LWD(Local Witch Doctor) to have the demons chased out?

Personally, I'd just ride it without the lockring.

I was going to suggest that, but something REALLY weird is going on here. If the problem is happening as described, I'd get a new hub (or new wheel, or maybe even a new bike!)

OP: not sure how much you're looking to spend, but I have a set of these and I love them: http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=87_172_176&products_id=531

I can't tell from the photo- is this a track hub, meaning with a reverse threaded lockring?

Either way, it's possible that the pressure of the lockring being tightened in causing a radial constriction of the thin alloy shell surrounding the bearing. If this was intended as a freewheel hub, it would be OK that way because the freewheel spreads the load better, but the lockring concentrates it on the outer section.

If it is indeed a track hub, it's a poor design, because there should be more meat on the shell surrounding the bearing, to handle the radial stress imposed by a lockring.

... must be a cheeeep hub , YGWYPF, drop a hundred bucks on the hub
and the quality will be improved..

I also considered the squeezing possibility, but I'm just not sure. Could the hub be mis-machined with the threads cut at a strange angle, such that when tightened the lock ring contacts the cog at an angle thus pulling one side out of alignment? That seems reallllllly unlikely, but could put the bearing races asunder, limiting rotation.

Either which way, I agree that a new hub ought to find it's way into your wheel via skilled wheel builder.

Thanks for all the comments. It is a flip flop hub. The hub did seem to work fine before I tried to change the cog.

The whole bike has only about 150 miles on it. Better to buy a whole new rear wheel and have the shop put my old cog and lockring on it, or get a new hub laced to the existing Alex rim? I have access to Harris and Landrys in Boston to do the wheel lacing. Landrys us much closer but Harris is, you know, famous.

Thanks

Forgot to ask: do you think it's safe to ride on the freewheel side with the lockring loose (or off) on the fixed side?

Thanks

Forgot to ask: do you think it's safe to ride on the freewheel side with the lockring loose (or off) on the fixed side?

Thanks

Only one way to find out! Ha. I say go for it. If you already have uneventful miles on it I'd ride it freewheel style until you can scrounge cash for a new hub. I'd probably just get a new hub and have it all re-laced. The Formula hubs that are rebranded by so many are pretty damn good for the price, so you should be able to do it all for not too much money. Harris has the Origin8 branded Formulas for cheap right now.