Bicycle Mechanics - How adjustable is adjustable stem on Scott SUB 10
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05-08-11, 10:15 PM
Thanks for previous help. I am real green on bikes nowadays.
I just bought a Scott SUB 10 2009 commuter bike about a month ago, used, on Ebay. To actually use for commuting. Still learning the basics about it, but like it.
It says it has an adjustable stem. Does that mean I can 1. loosen the screw on top and raise the stem, or just 2. raise the bracket on the stem that attaches the handlebar to the stem?
I know I can do the second, and it is easy but only gives me an additional quarter of an inch or so. Does adjustable stem also mean there is a chance I could raise the stem up as well? I would like to get another inch if it is there.
I am going to try to attach photos of the stem and the bracket.
05-09-11, 08:57 AM
You can lower it to the headset cap. You can raise it so it's flush with the top of the steerer. And you can flip it.
If you need more rise than the stem can give you, buy a mtb riser handlebar and check your cable length.
05-09-11, 09:50 AM
Thanks very much, Bobcat.
Is the "it" I can lower and raise and flip, the bracket, or the stem? I am trying to learn the correct terminology. Is the stem the vertical piece that goes down to the fork, or the thing I can raise and lower and flip that attaches to this vertical piece.
I know that often the stem is a single piece shaped like a 7, but on this bike there are two separate pieces. What do I call them? Is there anything I can do to the vertical part?
05-09-11, 10:10 AM
Its apparently a fixed angle stem , you are shuffling spacers.. ,
If you want more adjustment,
you need to buy another stem, the vertical is the steerer tube on the fork
the bolt in the top cap is the headset adjustment,
performed while all bolts below it are loosened.
to get the stem off you remove the top cap, and when you loosen the stem clamping bolt ,
around the fork be prepared for the fork falling out.
05-10-11, 11:56 AM
"It" refers to the stem. It clamps directly to a shim that fits over the steerer tube of the fork. To reposition the height, loosen the binder bolt in the back, slide stem up or down, and re-tighten the bolt. What's cool about this system is you can fudge around with your stem and handlebar without messing with the headset.
These stems are set at an angle to the steerer that's 6-10 degrees off of a right angle. That means you can remove the handlebar, remove the stem, and flip it so it's either 90+ degrees or 90- degrees. Most of the time these bikes are sold with the stem in the "up" position. As I said earlier, the stem should be set no higher than flush with the top of the steerer.
It's a proprietary stem made specifically to work with the slotted shim, so you can't replace it without removing the shim, buying spacers, and messing with the headset. If you need more rise, get a mtb bar with some rise, some upsweep, and with the same clamp diameter. You may want to cut off the ends of the bar to duplicate the width of the bar that's on the bike.
This stem doesn't use spacers, it simply clamps onto a slotted ship that fits over the fork steerer tube. I forgot the name of the company that developed and markets this technology, but it's available for any bike that uses a 1 1/8" staight tube steerer, and it consists of the stem, the shim, and the steerer end cap. Scott used it for a year or two on a couple of their hybrid models.
The Scott Subs are cool bikes, like a Trek FX or a Specialized Sirrus but with a more aggressive geometry.
05-11-11, 09:23 AM
Thanks, bobcat. So the horizontal bit that attaches the handlebar to the bike is the stem. The vertical piece is the steering tube or a shim slid onto the steering tube, and I should not try to get any height out of that. Loosening the top bolt will not allow me to slide the steering tube up. It is fixed, and height comes from moving the stem up and down it, which I agree is very simple, and I had already done that a little bit.
I am glad to know I can move the stem up all the way flush to the top. I was afraid I needed to leave some sticking out the top. That should be enough adjustment. I won't make other modifications.
I had been trying out the Trek FX 7.3, which was a little more upright, when I saw this bike. But having ridden it more, I have gotten used to the more forward position. I have figured out that what I really want is drop handlebars to give me more hand positions, but since this bike is 10 times better than what I had before at only five times the price, I am satisfied.
Thanks for the really clear explanation.
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