Classic & Vintage - New Sturmey Archer 5-speed selection guide vs. hollow axel (technical)

Hi, this question might be better suited to mechanics area, but you CVers are probably my best shot. A few weeks ago I had a new wheel built around a new SA 5-spd hub for my Raleigh Sports, fully installed by LBS. Ever since, I have been unable to reliably engage second gear, no matter how many times I adjusted the indicator. On a lark, I took off the plastic gear selector guide with its crumby little plastic wheel. This thing:
http://orangecycleorlando.com/images/library/catalogs/soc/p350X350m/CA3230.jpg
I replaced it with an old metal indicator nut threaded on to the rear axel like any old 3-speed. I rode it around the block a couple times and it SEEMS to work so far.
I know you can install the shifter old-style with a pulley and nut OR with the newfangled fulcrum clip and cover with the stupid plastic guide, Like this:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_-NFsJ4KZCvc/TbjyhfnDULI/AAAAAAAAAU4/7whimDzQDmY/s288/indiicator.jpg
What I'm not sure of (being only mechanically inclined enough to get myself in trouble, not out), is if my "hybrid" setup with a 50-year-old indicator nut is ok. Sturmey is selling the stupid indicator guide with a metal wheel instead of the plastic wheel on mine, so I guess I could get that.
Thoughts? :twitchy:

My SRF-5 came with both the new style connector and plastic doohickie and the traditional cable anchor. I went traditional. It works fine.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_GmYBBzTzcVQ/TVbYSqt-hDI/AAAAAAAAIuk/-rq17h2bTUs/s800/75SuperCourseMkII_4.jpg

Neal

Yeah, I am just paranoid about using it with the modern mounting bracket because it is unfamiliar. Upon reflection, I can't see how it could possibly be any different. I guess they just include the little plastic wheel to drive people crazy.

I have this setup with a new-production three speed (and a five that I haven't gotten rolling yet). The main action is in the cable pull at the shifter. It's hard to imagine a situation where the surface over which you drag the indicator chain could make a difference. I know that doesn't help at all. Should have kept my trap shut.

I bought one of the new hubs a year ago or so, and it came with two or three different ways to set up the indicator, including the traditional one. I went traditional, and it works fine.

If it isn't a step-through frame i'd route the cable across the top tube and down the seat stay using a pully rather than down the downtube and by the bottom bracket and out through the chain.

The lower routing might look cleaner to some people but the first time you change the wheel in a hurry (like if you get a flat) and pinch the cable the cable in your haste by forgetting to connect it up or let the chainwheel/chain mash it and you have kissed reliable shifting goodbye. The cable needs to remain perfectly unkinked and this is important if you want reliable shifting (and lack of a neutral in some cases.)

I've had success mixing and matching all sorts of new and old Sturmey stuff.

I'd actually be more surprised if the OP's solution didn't work.

I've had success mixing and matching all sorts of new and old Sturmey stuff.

I'd actually be more surprised if the OP's solution didn't work.

+1

The cable needs to remain perfectly unkinked and this is important if you want reliable shifting (and lack of a neutral in some cases.)
Good suggestion. I am still having some trouble getting neutral instead of second witht he new setup (although it's much better). Wondering if I have just a tiny kink in the cable somewhere. Either that or the indicator chain isn't in quite right. Or the shifter is bad. I just ordered a new shifter anyway, simply because the grip shifter that came with the hub is so ugly and unsuited to the bike, so I'll set up everything fresh and see what happens.

There are some bad SA shifters out there. I just replaced a trigger shifter that would always hang up in 2nd and it was NOS when I bought it.

An SA shifter cable is just like any other indexed shifter cable. It doesn't matter how you run it as long as you minimize the friction.

I treated the dual cables for my S5 as if they were derailer cables and it works great. You don't have to use fulcrum clips and pulleys or full length housing if you don't want to. Just be sure to minimize the friction on the cable.

http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/10418/2408217520068014369S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2408217520068014369ipkIzQ)

There are some bad SA shifters out there. I just replaced a trigger shifter that would always hang up in 2nd and it was NOS when I bought it.


I too have a NOS (well, not that old) shifter and yes, I keep hanging up in 2nd. I really hope the new shifter solves this problem... internal hubs are supposed to be low maintenance!

I saw no reason for that new-fangled gizmo, if it ain't broke....

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp538%3A9%3Enu%3D3275%3E4%3B3%3E733%3EWSNRCG%3D3497%3A%3B%3C28932%3Anu0mrj

I too have a NOS (well, not that old) shifter and yes, I keep hanging up in 2nd.

I purchased a new one a couple years ago that wouldn't hold in 1st.

Just got a 1971 with its original Raleigh cables still hooked up and it works flawlessly...go figure

Sturmey Archer had a rough period for a bit with their quality control. I'm not surprised that there are NOS trigger shifters that are still as defective today as the day they were boxed and shipped from the factory...

Sturmey Archer had a rough period for a bit with their quality control
Mine was pretty new... I guess the bad shifter cancels out the money I saved buying the package on e-bay. Every time I try to be cheap it ends up costing me more!