General Cycling Discussion - Drop Bars--Discuss.

Why use them? I know they have more hand positions than flat bars, but I rarely use the drops. When I do use the drops, I don't stay in that position for long. Mostly I use the tops and hoods. Bonuses are that I have cross top brake levers, the bar end shifters are nice, too, and the hoods are useful for hanging market bags off of.

How can drops be made better use of? Anyone out there just passionate about riding the drops? Anyone like another handlebar they like better? I think if I'd might like to try moustache handlebars to save myself some back strain.

I'm asking because I recently replaced the crappiest, most unsupportive Brooks leather handlebar tape with some Deda foam handlebar tape. I had to take my German Bike Mirror (http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/german-mirror/20-177) off. I haven't had a chance to put it back on and I've been experimenting with riding the drops, but I'm not sure how I'd rather use it, for one more hand position or to mount a bike mirror.

Here's a Sheldon Brown link (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html) to start this off.

Even Sheldon got it wrong wrong when it comes to bars since not everyone likes being bent over when they ride.

I enjoyed being bent over, but it got to be a pain in the neck, so to speak, to see where I was going. My personal issue was not being able to get a solid grip on the brake levers. I finally went with a moustache bar. All problems solved.

True, the moustache gives only one hand position, but it is a really good position.

I like riding on the top flat part for city traffic, and that's where cross levers really shine IMO. It lets me sit up straighter to see more and be seen. Everywhere else, the hoods for most of it. Sometimes I rest on my forearms like I have invisible tri bars. Drops are only for downhill and headwinds. Sometimes I'll put my palms on the hoods, fingers going over the top, sometimes I'll put my palms on the first curve, so my thumbs are pointing forwards. Variety is nice and keeps your arms from getting tingly.

I like riding on the top flat part for city traffic, and that's where cross levers really shine IMO. It lets me sit up straighter to see more and be seen. Everywhere else, the hoods for most of it. Sometimes I rest on my forearms like I have invisible tri bars. Drops are only for downhill and headwinds. Sometimes I'll put my palms on the hoods, fingers going over the top, sometimes I'll put my palms on the first curve, so my thumbs are pointing forwards. Variety is nice and keeps your arms from getting tingly.

As far as cross levers and hood levers, I really don't even notice anymore which ones I use. Sometimes I think I even mix the two. I really like that aspect of the drop bars. I know moustache bars would have only one position and one set of brake levers, but it's still appealing to sit up straight. Are the drops really only uses for downhill riding and riding against headwinds? Hmm, well maybe my mirror would make better use of that space, then. When I have ridden the drops around the neighborhood, I've noticed that I've been able to pick up speed up to 20mph whereas on the hoods I can only get up to 15mph. I have try mashing the gears while on the hoods and see if there's a drops placebo effect.

I enjoyed being bent over, but it got to be a pain in the neck, so to speak, to see where I was going. My personal issue was not being able to get a solid grip on the brake levers. I finally went with a moustache bar. All problems solved.

True, the moustache gives only one hand position, but it is a really good position.

From rivbike (http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/bars_and_tape):
Get the Moustache Handlebar if: You want the upright position and immediate access to the brakes that a flat bar provides, but want a bar that offers you multiple hand positions. The Moustache H'bar is a fine all-around shape, but get it at least level with the saddle, and a bit higher is even better


BUT they got it way wrong on the handlebar tape. I hate leather and I hate cloth handlebar tape. Absolutely no support. I had issues with hand pain and I went through adjustment after fitting and so on. Finally, I gave up the Brooks handlebar tape and voila, no more palm cramps. Gel/foam handlebar tape FTW (with a good fitting)

I don't use drops much myself, but met a woman at a bike rack who said she rode enough that it just seemed natural to be in them. I hadn't even known that was possible. I always thought it took discipline or something like that.

We had a 4.5 mile one-way fun club time trial into 17mph headwinds last weekend.
We are a small club, yet 10 seconds could change your final placing. Riding in the drops definitely helped.

I also get down in the drops when I rocket downhill. It allows me to scootch back on the saddle and get more stable and aero.

Finally, there are some bike paths with untrimmed tree branches overhead. Nice to not have them scratching up the helmet.

Bike fit and your body type/flexibility will determine comfort levels in the drops. YMMV.

Even Sheldon got it wrong wrong when it comes to bars since not everyone likes being bent over when they ride.

I don't believe he ever said that drop bars were the only way to go... he was pretty open minded about such things.

He was right when he said that most bikes that are equipped with drop bars have a race fit which is not conducive to long distance comfort and running drop bars in a higher position with the flat level or even above the saddle can make the drop position much more comfortable.

A good percentage of my bicycles have drop bars, most are level with the saddle as I usually ride for distance and comfort although there are a few exceptions.

If you don't like drops, look for bull horn (or cow horn) handlebars ... these are not moustache handlebars. I've got them on the tandem, and have used them elsewhere as well.

I can see drop bars being useful for long distances, where the ability to move your hands around would be good. However, this would only be true if you adjusted the handlebars to something higher than a race fit. If you have them already and don't use the drops much, consider raising them slightly. That way you'd be able to use the drops more for general riding, with the tops giving you a more upright position for negotiating city traffic.

Guys, it is not that much of a stretch. What is it, five inches?

The biggest problem I see is folks whose handlebars are set for aesthetics rather than practical use. Mine are set level with my seat so being 'on the drops' (as people that want to sound kewl would say it) is one of many comfy possitions to be in.

Never raced, never tried to maintain high speeds. I do like 80+mile days up and down mountain roads. When the winds feels like a wall, the ability to ride low is the best thing in the universe.

I only used the drops on a downhill or with a strong headwind. Then I got some FSA Omega (http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-components/2011-fsa-omega-compact-handlebar-4583.28.1.html)shallow drop bars. Now I use the drops as just another normal hand position. I was really surprised how much difference it made. The Omega bars are around $40, and heavier than my old bars.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/images/products/fsa/2011/8766_i_1.jpg

I reciently changed out my flat bar to drop bars, I like it a lot better and I just get in the drops only when I'm going over 20MPH. I dont mind being bent over, only when it's going fast.

Guys, it is not that much of a stretch. What is it, five inches?
Mine are set level with my seat so being 'on the drops' (as people that want to sound kewl would say it) is one of many comfy possitions to be in.

When you say "level with my seat" are you refering to the drop position, level with the seat, or the portion that ataches to the stem?

I'll be purchasing an LHT fairly soon, and keep thinking that trekking bars are the way to go, although I have tried the drop bars that are standard issue with the LHT and found them ok as well.

Drops come in handy to me when going for longer rides. Besides other things, I like to get on drops sometimes to relax my back and change the position.

When you say "level with my seat" are you refering to the drop position, level with the seat, or the portion that ataches to the stem?

The top of the handlebars are level with the seat.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5027/5683081707_d027885cbe.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/machka-bb/sets/72157623874386934/)


And the bull horn bars look like this ...

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5215/5447369205_4369d0cd31.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/machka-bb/sets/72157626350106939/with/5546669712/)

i get down in the drops primarily for fighting nasty head winds, otherwise i'm on the hoods the vast majority of the time. my drop bars are a couple of inches below the saddle to begin with so even when i'm on the hoods i'm still somewhat bent over for better aero performance.

i put bullhorns on my hybrid because it's very similar to riding on the hoods of a drop bar. i find that having my hands parallel to the wheels is SO much more comfortable to me than the perpendicular hand position that a flat bar offers. i don't know why that 90 degree twist in the wrist makes such a big difference, but i can ride for hours like that, even with a good deal of weight on my wrists (my bullhorns are about 3-4 inches below my saddle).

albertmoreno, There are several styles of drop bars on the market. The Cinelli 64 is a favorite bend of mine and many others and I read that it may become available again new. It features a short reach and moderate drop with the ends extending rearward of the top tube.

I ride the hoods primarily, but I do use the drops and would hate to not have them.

Brad

"Drops" oh my aching back! :twitchy::twitchy::cry::cry:

Consider also 'Trekking' bars.. a figure 8 like bend, rather than up and down,
they offer a near and far and sides grip..

I'm rarely in the drops, but have rotated my bars and used a long enough stem that if I were to raise my bars an inch or so and shorten the stem, I'd probably find them to be the same position I'm using now with the tops being much more comfortable. Hmmm, something to think about.

When the winds feels like a wall, the ability to ride low is the best thing in the universe.

This is where I am at.

On my commute I have about 15 miles of open terrain where the wind often blows. One way or the other it's a headwind.

I use my drops on those stretches, but I actually find my clip-on aero bars much more comfortable. I get comments about having a rear basket and aero bars, but that's the best way I've found to carry a full backpack in a headwind.

"Drops" oh my aching back! :twitchy::twitchy::cry::cry:

I saw a massage therapist about my knees recently, and mentioned that I was having back pain after lowering the handlebar on one of my bikes.

She showed me how to massage (and stretch) some muscles that run just inside my pelvis (iliac crest). They get tight and pull on my back, making it sore.

When I would start getting a sore back (and I mean bad!) I would stop and do my various stretches. The pain was alleviated for a few miles at first and then gradually longer. Now my back rarely hurts.

It might be worth looking into. Massage therapy isn't that expensive.

Never ridden with drop bars. Have considered it, but I think that shallow ones seem more interesting than deep ones. I like my Mirrcycle mirror, though....

"Drops" oh my aching back! :twitchy::twitchy::cry::cry:

Regardless of whether you like drop bars you should look at ancillary exercises that can give you back your full range of motion. Deep heavy squats did it for me. I don't ride on the drops a lot but one day I found myself resting on them when I got tired of every other position.

"Drops" oh my aching back! :twitchy::twitchy::cry::cry:

Actually, one of the reasons I like drops is because they allow me a chance to stretch my back and shoulders during a long ride.

I'm thinking that people who are experiencing discomfort while riding in the drops may find it beneficial to change bars or stems. When I was riding track drops with a long flat portion to hold onto in the drops, I noticed it was the most comfortable position to ride in. The shape of those bars also put the hoods in an uncomfortable position, so I didn't ride on those as much. The road drops I use now have the drop portion mostly at a 45 degree angle to the ground, and riding on those gets uncomfortable pretty fast. Hoods are great now, though.

I'm just a casual rider and don't ride in the lower part of the drops much, but I like having it just to stretch my back for a few minutes, then go back to riding on the hoods. I also like having them when going steep uphills, where holding onto the hoods make you feel like you are going to fall over backwards.

I have them pretty high though (about an inch over the saddle), on a bike with touring geometry, so that may be why I find them comfortable.

While some here may get along ok with drops I can not.

My back was broken long ago and I just don't bend like that anymore.

While some here may get along ok with drops I can not.

My back was broken long ago and I just don't bend like that anymore.

My problem is the opposite... nerve damage and MPS make sitting upright very painful and I can only ride in a lower forward position and a level saddle to bar position or a slightly higher bar position works best.

Can ride for 100 miles if the set up is right but often have trouble walking 1 mile.

Touring set up... higher bar placement allows for a pretty comfy in the drops position.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/2011cascade5.JPG

hundred different bends , so which do you have in mind?

shift by down tube, levers, brifters or bar ends? the bar choice is influenced.

short ramp or long, deep drop or shallow, parallel, or flare the lower ends?
round curves or shorter ones with anatomic flat sections?

As stated is not just the drops but how they are set. Heck, I like them and I'm in pain just by looking at this picture:

202552

I only used the drops on a downhill or with a strong headwind. Then I got some FSA Omega (http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-components/2011-fsa-omega-compact-handlebar-4583.28.1.html)shallow drop bars. Now I use the drops as just another normal hand position. I was really surprised how much difference it made. The Omega bars are around $40, and heavier than my old bars.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/images/products/fsa/2011/8766_i_1.jpg

Cool tip on the shallow drop bars. BTW, my drop bars are not adjusted for aesthetics. They've been raised plenty at the LBS. I like my drop bars just fine. I was more wondering how to make better use of the drops or whether I should just put a bike mirror there.

hundred different bends , so which do you have in mind?

shift by down tube, levers, brifters or bar ends? the bar choice is influenced.

short ramp or long, deep drop or shallow, parallel, or flare the lower ends?
round curves or shorter ones with anatomic flat sections?

I like bar end shifters. As for as "short ramp or long, deep drop or shallow, parallel, or flare the lower ends?
round curves or shorter ones with anatomic flat sections," I just don't know what those mean or how they affect riding. Mainly, I guess...I just want comfort. The moustache handlebars may be an option, but I'd be open to different types of drop bars, too.

Cool tip on the shallow drop bars. BTW, my drop bars are not adjusted for aesthetics. They've been raised plenty at the LBS. I like my drop bars just fine. I was more wondering how to make better use of the drops or whether I should just put a bike mirror there.

When I switched from riding a flat bar bike to a drop bar bike, I spent most of my time on the tops and hoods, but over time, I naturally migrated to using primarily the hoods and drops. I almost never use the tops anymore. Hoods if I'm just cruising at a leisurely pace, drops for speed or when riding into wind. I even removed the extra brake levers on the tops because I never use them anymore.

Drop bars == more aerodynamic but less comfort.
They originated in racing where being uncomfortable for a short time was worth tolerating if it made the difference between winning and not.

With upright bikes--any time you have your hands below the level of the seat, comfort decreases drastically.




If you are particularly interested in riding comfort, go try a few recumbents. They have their drawbacks but the riding comfort is far beyond any upright bike.

Drop bars == more aerodynamic but less comfort.
They originated in racing where being uncomfortable for a short time was worth tolerating if it made the difference between winning and not.

With upright bikes--any time you have your hands below the level of the seat, comfort decreases drastically.


Right...and touring bikes have drop bars because people riding all day like to be uncomfortable.

If you set your drop bars at the same height as your flat bar, how is that less comfort? My weekend rides are 75+ miles and I use drop bars _because_ they offer more comfort. I ride on the tops, the hoods, the drops (which if you can't stretch 5 inches from your normal 'comfy' position you should work on regaining mobility), the outside, hooking my thumbs where the tube bends, etc.

People equate drop bars with racing setups (bars 6 inches bellow seat, drops even further bellow), which would probably kill me. If you don't like them that's fine, but trust me, comfort is not an issue.

Drop bar != less comfort

As has been expressed by multiple people in this thread, people often choose drop bars because of ergonomics rather than speed.

I used to ride a flat handlebar bike with bar ends. I always naturally migrated to the bar ends to put my hands as the flat bars hurt my wrists after a half hour or so.

Riding a bike with drop bars and gripping the hoods is essentially the same ergonomics, except I actually have the brakes within reach. I am not bent over more in any way, and with my setup it's actually a bit more upright than my old bike. I can use the lower part of the drops if I want to, but I am rarely inclined to do so. It's there more as a 'just in case' scenario for me.

As I said before, I'm not riding a race bike, but a touring bike. The drops have nothing to do with speed for me, and everything to do with my particular ergonomic preferences for comfort, difficult as it may be for some to believe.

To add fuel to the fire. I put this on my bike last August. Don't know for sure how they'll do for long distance since I've only done two centuries with this handlebar. I realize that this is contrary to conventional wisdom, but for me sitting upright is easier and more relaxing than riding with drop bars or flat bars. I am thinking of trying a set of trekking bars but am still undecided.

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/handlebars/vo-left-bank-handlebar-config.html

To add fuel to the fire...

Which fire will that be? I think the only thing being argued is the notion that they sacrifice comfort for efficiency.

The best bar for you is the one you like the best. I'm putting together a commuter on a Dahon Tournado frame that is looking pretty kick ass with Velo orange porteur bars :D

drops are good but most are too low and don't get used. it's ok to raise your bars

I like these - Nitto Randonneur bars.
http://store.velo-orange.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/530x530/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/n/i/nitto_135_randonneur.jpg

The rounded/angled nature of the bend is essy on the hands and wrists. Easier to ride in the drops too, not a deep drop.

There are an awful lot of folks who buy a roadster and then ride around with their hands apparently welded into the drops; they're there...I must have to use them.
This is perhaps due to the fact that many folks are appallingly ignorant of basic bike fit and practice because a bike is just something you buy and ride. That's what they did as kids, anyway.
If you're hurting because you're riding "bent over" as one poster said....You're doing it wrong. Or, the bike doesn't fit. That's all there is to it. A properly set-up and adjusted bike should allow you to ride comfortably in any position. The normal riding position on a roadster is "on the hoods". That's why modern brake/shifter units are ergonomically designed for your hands.
Top of the bar for climbing, and drops for wind cheating and speedy descents.
Watch pro road racers sometime. Cruising in the peloton...Everyone is on the hoods.

Drop bars == more aerodynamic but less comfort.
They originated in racing where being uncomfortable for a short time was worth tolerating if it made the difference between winning and not.

With upright bikes--any time you have your hands below the level of the seat, comfort decreases drastically.




If you are particularly interested in riding comfort, go try a few recumbents. They have their drawbacks but the riding comfort is far beyond any upright bike.

This comment and this entire thread make no sense. I could take your current bike -- remove spacers/otherwise lower the stem, install any flat bar you want, and put you in pain just as much as any drop bar. Stupid.

It has nothing to do with the drop bar, it's the height of the handlebar (and reach to the handlebar) -- period. I ride drop bars on a mountain bike (kind of a monstercross bike) because flat bars are not as comfortable for long distance rides to me. I like the position where my fingers are split over the brake hoods and can ride like that for long periods of time even if I rarely use the "drops" portion of bar.