Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Flip Flop fixie rear wheel

Im looking to make a schwinn varsity into a fixie. Ive been looking around to try to find a flip flop hub. I then talked to a friendly guy at Performance (not to far from my house) and he told me it would almost be better to buy a new wheel with having to respoke the wheel on the hub. He said it took him 3 years to get good at it. So now ive been trying to find a good cheap flip flop hubbed back wheel for the bike. Does anyone have any suggestions to the brand or where i could possibly get a new rear tire. Im trying to spend around $60-$80 on this wheel. So im not expsecting the lightest wheel in the world, i just want something to mess around with on the bike. Thank you.

Try this >>> http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=87_89&products_id=785

that looks good, but how is size determined on wheels now?

that looks good, but how is size determined on wheels now?

Modern wheels are 700c, which is slightly smaller diameter than the 27" original wheel on your varsity, so you will need to buy a 700c tire. The hub axle spacing is 120mm on most SSFG type wheels like the one I linked, which is the same as old 10-speed frames like your Varsity, so that wheel will fit fine. You still need to buy a fixed cog and lockring separately. If you keep the original cranks, then the best chainline will be with the chain positioned on the inside (small) chainring.

All i know about the bike is that it is either a 54cm or a 56cm frame (i did some research and i think i found the same bike, a 1972 schwinn varsity, its an orange red color). The guy im getting it from is clueless. How do you know its 27" diameter wheel? and thank you so much for helping me.

All i know about the bike is that it is either a 54cm or a 56cm frame (i did some research and i think i found the same bike, a 1972 schwinn varsity, its an orange red color). The guy im getting it from is clueless. How do you know its 27" diameter wheel? and thank you so much for helping me.

The frame size has nothing to do with the wheel size. The wheels were all 27" on Schwinn Varsities in the 1970s, and most other bikes with clincher tires of that era.

cool, so the wheel you suggested should work with my bike?

cool, so the wheel you suggested should work with my bike?

Yes.

Ive been reading mixed reivews about the Weinmann company. What do you think about them? are there any other cheaper good brands of wheels about $70-$80?

I run some Weinmann's on my bike. No complaints for the price, and havent had any issues. Only complaints most people have are the weight because they are hefty.

For the whe he posted a link to, is that a flip flop hub?

The Velomine wheel I showed you is a flip flop hub that can take either a fixed cog / lockring or single cog freewheel on either side.

If you don't swap out the front wheel, the rear end is going to be a bit lower relative to the front wheel.

You can get a 27in wheel with a flip/flop hub from Harris for about 15 bucks more than the wheel on Velomine.

http://harriscyclery.net/product/various-manufacturers-27-inch-fixed-gear-rear-wheel-673.htm

I'm sure some will argue the merits of spending $65-$80 (plus rim tape, tubes + tires?) on a Varsity when you can pick up new bike for less than $300, but that $80 will seem like nothing if you really get hooked.

If you don't swap out the front wheel, the rear end is going to be a bit lower relative to the front wheel.

We're talking all of 4mm here, not even noticeable. Hardly worth spending more money to get a 27" wheel for which the choices in tires is very slim compared to 700c.

We're talking all of 4mm here, not even noticeable. Hardly worth spending more money to get a 27" wheel for which the choices in tires is very slim compared to 700c.

That's true--and could make up the difference with a bigger tire if it really mattered...However, if there's any chance of salvaging the tire or tube that's on the wheel now, the price for the 27in wheel would be less picking up the 700c wheel.

Since the OP is "just messing around", How about buy a cog + BB lockring, keep both brakes and run it as a suicide hub?

That's true--and could make up the difference with a bigger tire if it really mattered...However, if there's any chance of salvaging the tire or tube that's on the wheel now, the price for the 27in wheel would be less picking up the 700c wheel.

Since the OP is "just messing around", How about buy a cog + BB lockring, keep both brakes and run it as a suicide hub?

Those old Varsity wheels are very heavy, do not have hooked rims so the tires are low pressure and most importantly the smooth chrome steel rims offer very poor braking, especially in the rain. Recommending that the OP run it suicide is irresponsible IMO. As far as saving money by using the old tires, they are probably in terrible condition by now, unless they were replaced some time more recently.

Those old Varsity wheels are very heavy, do not have hooked rims so the tires are low pressure and most importantly the smooth chrome steel rims offer very poor braking, especially in the rain. Recommending that the OP run it suicide is irresponsible IMO. As far as saving money by using the old tires, they are probably in terrible condition by now, unless they were replaced some time more recently.

Yea, yea... ok recommending a suicide hub is irresponsible. Run two brakes, use loctite red BB lockring on the and stick to the coffee shop runs without any big descents... use at your own risk. I'm not recommending it.

I plan on just having a suicide hub untill i can afford a new flip flop back wheel with a nice hub. (im keeping both brakes on for now). What back wheel or new wheels set should i get? Please help.

Kevin,
In all seriousness, you should probably skip the suicide hub idea. If you're an experienced mechanic and are willing to accept the risks with this setup, I leave it to you to make that decision. The temptation to fix up a bike in hand is very tempting, but be careful. By the time you've got a ridable bike you will have spent more than the cost of a new one. There are plenty of decent chro-mo bikes on craigslist that can be had for no more than $150--and maybe cheaper. Sell the Varsity as is for as much as you can get and use that to fund a bike that will keep you happy for a while.

Why can't I just make the varsity into a fixie?

I think I'm just going to do a suicide set up untill Ive saved up enough to buy a better fixie bike (savings then plus what I get for selling.

FWIW I run a "suicide" hub on one of my winter bikes and there's nothing suicide about it.I run both brakes on that bike, but that's just because i hate empty canti studs.The cog and hubthreads have been properly degreased before applying the red loctite,the cog has been rotafixed and been given a few days to cure.There where not enough threads for a BB lockring, but none is needed as i was unable to remove the cog when trying to change my gearing.Had to get a new chainring instead.I don't recommend to do a suicide hub if one is all about doing mad skidz, but it's fine to get a feeling for FG.Just keep a brake on it(or both).As far as brakes on wet steel rims,most fixie noobs i see wouldn't ride in the rain if their lives depended on it.

That's very cool how you did everything. I'm keeping both brakes on when I do that set up. I won't ride in the rain lol, I will probably ride when it's a wet outside but drying if I really need to. Thanks for all the help guys. After I get some more money (and over 30 posts) if you don't mind I want to talk to you ("Build Your Own") more about your "suicide" set up. Maybe give me some advise on how to do it myself.

First off let me say that i have multiple bikes,mostly FG,ranging from no brakes to both brakes.After riding fixed for many years i rarely skid,not even brakeless.When i'm on a bike with a brake i'll use it.A suicide hub is fine and only suicide if one let's it be.When done right it'll be fine to backpedal and even skid(depending on gear and rider weight),but sh**t happens, so thick traffic may not be the place to do so.Use the brakes. For the set up,first i cleaned the hub and cog threads with mineral spirit and a small wire brush, then rubbing alcohol,followed by a clean rag.Then i let things dry for a while.When things where nice and dry i applied a generous amount of red loctite to the hub threads and threaded on the cog, using the rotafix method to tighten.Now comes the important part, when things where done i let the wheel sit for a few days.Loctite says 24 Hrs drying time, but what's the rush. Many old hubs are not threaded the full widh, so there may not be enough room for a lockring.If there is, add a BB lockring for extra security.

Started writing this a while back. You should definitely give it a read.
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/729128-How-to-convert-10sp-and-freewheel-equipped-bikes-to-SS-FG

One particular thing to note: IIRC, Varsities have a one piece crank. You can get toe clips to work with the pedals, but you're better off switching to a 3-piece crank so you can get some pedals with straps or clipless pedals and shoes.

Why can't I just make the varsity into a fixie?

You can.


FWIW I run a "suicide" hub on one of my winter bikes and there's nothing suicide about it.I run both brakes on that bike, but that's just because i hate empty canti studs.The cog and hubthreads have been properly degreased before applying the red loctite,the cog has been rotafixed and been given a few days to cure.There where not enough threads for a BB lockring, but none is needed as i was unable to remove the cog when trying to change my gearing.Had to get a new chainring instead.I don't recommend to do a suicide hub if one is all about doing mad skidz, but it's fine to get a feeling for FG.Just keep a brake on it(or both).As far as brakes on wet steel rims,most fixie noobs i see wouldn't ride in the rain if their lives depended on it.

Careful with that advice. TT is watching...


Started writing this a while back. You should definitely give it a read.
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/729128-How-to-convert-10sp-and-freewheel-equipped-bikes-to-SS-FG

One particular thing to note: IIRC, Varsities have a one piece crank. You can get toe clips to work with the pedals, but you're better off switching to a 3-piece crank so you can get some pedals with straps or clipless pedals and shoes.

Skip down to Dannihilator's post, it's short & sweet. Read sillyg's first post for more detail if needed.

Good luck. Post pics when it's done.

What I'm planning is just do the suicide set up and then ride backwards lol. And when I save up enough I will then put original gears back onto bike (make it look classic again) and then sell. Then use all of the money to buy an actual fixie bike. Does that sound like a good plan?

What I'm planning is just do the suicide set up and then ride backwards lol. And when I save up enough I will then put original gears back onto bike (make it look classic again) and then sell. Then use all of the money to buy an actual fixie bike. Does that sound like a good plan?

Varsities are a dime a dozen, so don't expect to sell it for much. However, this will be a good learning experience, and if you get a new fixie you could always turn the Schwinn into a grocery getter or a single speed.

One particular thing to note: IIRC, Varsities have a one piece crank. You can get toe clips to work with the pedals, but you're better off switching to a 3-piece crank so you can get some pedals with straps or clipless pedals and shoes.


Walmart by me has 1/2" pedals you can put clips and straps on for $8. They even come with 9/16" adapters incase you wanna put 'em on 3pc cranks later and don't mind gigantic Q-factor.

Shop around BMX shops for 1/2" pedals that will take wide footstraps. That's another nice setup.