Fifty Plus (50+) - Where to start?

Hello, I'm a 61 year old male in Minneapolis thinking of getting a bike. I haven't been on one for over 35 years. Might get me back in good shape and help me loose the extra 50lb. I'm carrying around. I am 6'3" and around 230lb. I Stopped into a couple of bike shops today and looked at a Trek 7100, a couple of Specialized comfort models and a Cannondale (too expensive). At this point I have to rely on the sales people and of course each one says the one they are selling is the best. Any advice is surely welcome.

Virtually at the same stage of life as you.

Bought bikes at Xmas for the same reasons.

Wife and I both got Specialized Elite Low-Entry models. Put 60 plus miles on them so far and am very happy.

It's a hybrid model with a front shock,nice.

And I would evaluate how you swing your leg over the bar getting on and off. I can do it now, but I want to keep this bike for ten years, and the thought of swinging that leg every time on and off led me to the "low entry" version.

35 years ago we called them "girls' bikes", but I'm very happy with my choice.

Just try one in a bike shop .

good luck

The fact of the matter is, at similar price points, there's little difference between competing models of comfort hybrids. The quality is pretty good too. Once you step up from big-box store bikes (also known as "Bicycle-Shaped Objects" or BSOs) to bike shop bikes, there's nothing that really should be avoided. They're all pretty good.

I started again (also after 35 years) just over five years ago on a $400 comfort hybrid. I put 4,000 miles on it, and it was still going strong--with ordinary maintenance items--when it was stolen.

Your best bet is to shop for the dealer you like best, then buy whatever comfort hybrid they sell at your chosen price point, making sure it fits well first.

What kind of riding? Road, bike path, dirt? Want to do distance and ride with others?

Wow, Thanks for the response everyone!!! I have no idea what kind of riding I'll do. I suppose I'll try some of the local trails (lots of them in Minneapolis and suburbs). Some are paved and some are crushed rock. I just went to Consumer Reports, they like the Schwinn Midmoor for the money. Also checked about-bicycles.com, they like the Voyager GS by Schwinn better. Any thoughts on these? They fit my budget better, but, if they are not decent quality I will step up. I don't want a bike I will be sorry I bought.

Wow, Thanks for the response everyone!!! I have no idea what kind of riding I'll do. I suppose I'll try some of the local trails (lots of them in Minneapolis and suburbs). Some are paved and some are crushed rock. I just went to Consumer Reports, they like the Schwinn Midmoor for the money. Also checked about-bicycles.com, they like the Voyager GS by Schwinn better. Any thoughts on these? They fit my budget better, but, if they are not decent quality I will step up. I don't want a bike I will be sorry I bought.

I'm a little older than you, about the same size, but I've been cycling seriously or semi-seriously for 40 years. I'm pretty much just a geezer out for a ride now, but I've raced a little and done about every kind of riding there is, from technical mountain biking to multi-day road tours.
With that experience, I'd sort of recommend against a "comfort bike" unless you're sure that's what you want and need. I don't know any of the bikes you mentioned, but in general, something like a hybrid or touring bike will provide about the same level of comfort and stability (with fat tires, 35mm or larger) but (with a tire swap) let you branch out if your interest level changes. I've done gravel fire roads and paved centuries on my Atlantis, for instance, just by changing the tires. A few things to look for:
Avoid the butt-up, head-down posture that's supposedly more efficient. It actually is better aerodynamically, but it's hell for us old guys to hold for long and it doesn't make much difference at 12mph. My handlebars are all level with my saddle or slightly higher, and I'm never lowering them.
Get something with room for big tires, at least 700x35 or 26x1.5. Wider would be better. You can always use skinny tires on a bike with room for fat ones, but the reverse isn't true.
Don't be fooled by a puffy, super-soft saddle. It feels great in the shop but will hurt in 20 minutes. Saddle selection is an individual thing, so recommendations aren't particularly valuable, but I've never met a gel saddle I could tolerate.
If you decide on a road bike, look for low gears. The more-or-less standard 53/39 crankset with 12/26 or so cassette will kill you. I recommend a triple crank, and you'll soon find that even the 30-tooth granny is optimistic.
Consider a midrange mountain bike with appropriate tires. You may like the riding position, and tire swaps to suit different conditions are easy and cheap.

Some good suggestions. If it were me I would not get a bike with a front shock unless you are planning on doing more rugged trail work. For paved paths, crushed rock and the occasional fire road an MTB with no shock will work just fine, the shock just adds weight and robs energy. I would also make sure the bike can take a front and rear rack and fenders, that means mounting eyes on the front and rear forks. I say this because if you get into this, you are looking at a setup that you can turn into a grocery getter, touring, or commuter bike which is something that even a hard core roadie or stump jumper can always use in their stable. It will also just make a comfortable MUP bike if that's all you ever want to do. I agree with the triple crankset, preferable with MTB gearing. And yes - make sure it fits well.

I live in Minneapolis - what you need as much as a new bike is an LBS (local bike shop) where you feel comfortable talking to the sales people and where you'll feel comfortable going back when you have further questions or need adjustments. There are LOTS of great LBS in the Twin Cities, though some focus more on the higher end. I personally frequent The Hub (at their Minnehaha location, but they also have an outlet at Cedar/Riverside) and Freewheel. Both The Hub and Freewheel are coops. Penn Cycle is a local chain that also has good knowledgeable staff. I personally have not that been happy with the folks at Eriks- they've always seemed like they want to be catering to a younger crowd- but YMMV.

The Grand Rounds paved trails around the rivers and lakes go forever here - for the most part, you only end up on crushed limestone if you head out west towards Minnetonka. On the paved trails, you will be fine on a comfort bike but also might enjoy a hybrid or even an entry level steel framed touring road bike. The latter could serve you well now and keep serving you after you get in a little better shape.

Ride a few bikes and pull the trigger soon - it's prime cycling season right now!

One point, avoid the Schwinn's you mentioned, they both have light weight low spoke count wheels.

I and several others have had bad luck with them. One their 24 spoke wheels broke and dumped me
in the street last February.

Go for a 36 spoke wheel.

I started a year ago on an $80 Walmart bike, and now ride an old vintage Trek fitness bike.

When you get your bike, your need to ride it, every day,,, every day.

I started doing five and six miles a day, now I do 100's and today I did twenty in under an
hour.

I ride every day!

I live in Minneapolis - what you need as much as a new bike is an LBS (local bike shop) where you feel comfortable talking to the sales people and where you'll feel comfortable going back when you have further questions or need adjustments.

That's what I think too. Shop for a bike shop first. When you find the right one - you'll know it. I think that there's bigger differences among bike shops than there is among bike brands.

Retro and MinnMan have it right. Look for the LBS (Local bike shop) that you like and "Seem" to get good advice from. Some shops will just sell you a bike.

Make of bike doesn't matter if you have the right LBS-but the style of bike is down to you. Road or Smooth trail riding and don't get an MTB unless you plan to get more adventurous and try the hills and the Rough tracks. So look at the type of riding you will be able to do and get a bike that is suitable for that use. The LBS will be able to help you on that choice as they know the local area.

Back to the drawing board. This is all great advice. One thing I didn't mention is that I have a very bad back (3 fused vert. in lower spine), thats why I thought a comfort bike would be best (more upright sitting position). MinnMan - I live in Minnetonka near Hopkins, so, I will probably encounter more of the rock trails you mentioned. I have been to Eriks and Penn, I'll stop at some others next week, maybe have a bike by the weekend. Velo Dog - I will look at and test ride some other styles. Would renting a few bikes over the next few weeks to try them, for more than a trip around the parking lot, be a good Idea? That would set my purchase back awhile.

Would renting a few bikes over the next few weeks to try them, for more than a trip around the parking lot, be a good Idea? That would set my purchase back awhile.

Odds are that the bikes for rent aren't the same ones as the new ones for sale. There should be no problem taking a bike out for a 10 mile ride to try it out at a good LBS. I've done at least that when I've shopped for a new bike. You just leave your ID at the or credit card at the desk and then you can go for a half hour ride.

Renting a few bikes might be a good idea although it might be hard to find one that fits. I am also around your height and have bought most of my bikes by looking at geometry charts and ordering them on faith.
People always say to test ride bikes before you buy but I can never find a bike my size to try.
If you have to sit straight up a comfort bike may work, or a hardtail mountain bike. Maybe even a cheap cyclocross bike.
The challenge is going to be finding your fit/position.
Most of us have tried multiple saddles, too.

Some good suggestions. If it were me I would not get a bike with a front shock unless you are planning on doing more rugged trail work. For paved paths, crushed rock and the occasional fire road an MTB with no shock will work just fine, the shock just adds weight and robs energy. I would also make sure the bike can take a front and rear rack and fenders, that means mounting eyes on the front and rear forks. I say this because if you get into this, you are looking at a setup that you can turn into a grocery getter, touring, or commuter bike which is something that even a hard core roadie or stump jumper can always use in their stable. It will also just make a comfortable MUP bike if that's all you ever want to do. I agree with the triple crankset, preferable with MTB gearing. And yes - make sure it fits well.

+1
Totally agree with this.

One thing I didn't mention is that I have a very bad back (3 fused vert. in lower spine), thats why I thought a comfort bike would be best (more upright sitting position).

Not necessarily. The forward position on a road bike supports your spine at both ends. All that upper body weight is moved off the lower spine to the arms. An upright puts all the weight on just one end. Flexibility is another issue entirely. And I still think a comfort hybrid is the place to start.



Would renting a few bikes over the next few weeks to try them, for more than a trip around the parking lot, be a good Idea? That would set my purchase back awhile.

That's actually a pretty good idea, provided you can rent one like you're looking to buy. As MinnMan says, that could be the hard part. But, even if the rental bikes are different, you might find that renting one for a weekend will ally all your fears, and then you can proceed with your purchase with a little first-hand knowledge of yourself.

Don't assume an upright position will be better for your back. Try a few different types of bike before choosing one. You may decide a comfort bike is best or you may gravitate toward something more sporting like a fitness hybrid or a relaxed road bike. You never know til you try it.

Bad backs are not what will denote what style of bike you get. I have a back problem and when I went road after 16 years on MTBs- I chose a road bike with a fairly relaxed riding position. Short top tube and bars just below the saddle. I could not ride any length of time in the drop position-and I am talking 10 seconds and my back was screaming. Got a high rise stem to bring the bars up to saddle height and it was no better. 6 months later and I decided to "Practice" that drop position. 20 seconds at a time on a straight bit of road and I would force myself into the drops. 1 month later and the drop position was comfortable. Next bike was a Race geometry bike with a longer top tube and the bars 4" below the saddle. I still ride on the hoods (On the brake levers) most of the time but into a headwind- Going downhill or if I want to catch the rider in front and the drop position is comfortable. That long low body stance seems to help my back.

202775 202776

The black bike is the relaxed Geometry bike and you can see the height of the bars in relation to the saddle. Typical older rider configuration.

But the bike that is comfortable is the Boreas- and that includes long road rides up to a metric. Above the metric and I use a bike that is similarly set up to Boreas but with a triple Crank.

202777

Thanks for all the good info. Sounds like I should try several types of bikes and find a bike shop that is really interested in helping me find the right one with the correct fit. The two I mentioned above sounded like they were going to let me ride around in the parking lot, maybe I just misunderstood. I can speak a little more intelligently when I go to the next shop. I will explore the rental piece but the obstacles defined above may make that a challenge, I'll let you know. Another issue - how well do trunk mount 2 bike racks work? Are the bikes protected from each other? Do they scratch up the paint on the car? If I buy or rent I'll have to figure out how to haul them around (my wife already has a bike that she rides once in awhile, a Giant I found at a garage sale a couple of years ago, it seems to fit her well and she likes it for now, but, may want to upgrade her soon too).

Another issue - how well do trunk mount 2 bike racks work? Are the bikes protected from each other? Do they scratch up the paint on the car?

I have a really simple Saris Bones 2-bike rack. It works great. 2 minutes to mount or dismount and no problem with scratching. They're not expensive.

I have an old one - about 15 years, works great - goes on easy and caries 2 bikes. It's no the banging of bikes together you have to worry about - it is gingerly putting the inside one on the rack so it does not scratch the tubes. I think they have improved this aspect in new designs.

One thing I didn't mention is that I have a very bad back (3 fused vert. in lower spine), thats why I thought a comfort bike would be best (more upright sitting position).

Oh dear! You may even want to consider the dreaded "R" word - recumbent.

If you decide that's a possibility, don't waste your time with the people at a conventional bike shop. Find a recumbent specialist shop. Recumbents are a developing technology. There are many variations on the recumbent theme. They ride and handle quite differently from one another. People who don't speak fluent recumbent aren't going to be able to guide your decision.

Great news, I think thats the one they cary at both shops I was in. I'll pick one up this week. I read the posts here over and over. There are a few terms and components I don't quite understand so I printed everything in the thread to take with me as I continue shopping. Can't wait to get out there again, May even take a day off work this week to shop.

Go for a 36 spoke wheel.

Good suggestion.

Welcome. I've been riding since 07. I was lucky in that my neighbor, who got me riding, had 4 different types of bikes. The hybrid, which has some road aspects with straight bars, was the one I gravitated to. I was able to ride that bike for weeks before I decided a hybrid was right bike for me to buy. Four years later, I've upgraded to a road bike. Not sure you have the opportunity to ride some different types to see what works for you, but that would certainly be an option worth trying to find.

One other thing, with regards to buying an inexpensive bike, if it's what you can afford, then by all means get the best bang for your buck. However, if it's just because you don't want to spend much on a first bike, well that may or may not be the best decision. A good bike should have a decent value years down the road. A name like Specialized, Giant, Trek, Cannondale, etc, command better pricing when looking to resell or trade up. Just my thoughts there.

Good luck to you!

One other thing, with regards to buying an inexpensive bike, if it's what you can afford, then by all means get the best bang for your buck. However, if it's just because you don't want to spend much on a first bike, well that may or may not be the best decision. A good bike should have a decent value years down the road. A name like Specialized, Giant, Trek, Cannondale, etc, command better pricing when looking to resell or trade up. Just my thoughts there.


True enough. Of course, most of us keep our old bikes when we upgrade. That's how we end up with n+1 bikes in our garages!

(And I love all my bikes, including the ones with "special needs")

Thanks to everyone for all of your suggestions, comments and advice. I went to the new shop just 2 miles from where I live today after church. I took my printout with me and asked all the questions. The sales guy answered them all and more. He said he had one bike that he thought would fit my needs but showed me several others first. Guess what? I just got back from a ride on my new bike. My legs feel like rubber and I am exhausted but it was great fun and I think I made the right choice. It's a Marin San Rafael. You all probably know much more about it than I do, but from my perspective, even though the bars are only a couple of inches higher than the seat, my half hr. ride was very comfortable, the hills were doable and I am very pleased. This would not have been my choice had I not gotten your help here. Thanks sooo much!!

Congratulations! Looks like a good choice. Have great fun with it!


Marin San Rafael (http://www.marinbikes.com/2011/bike_specs.php?San_Rafael&serialnum=1584)

Looks like a good solid bike that will last you a long time.

Second ride tonight. Rode bike path (paved) around one of the local lakes, 3-4 miles, about a half hr. Very nice, I'm hooked. Cant' wait for tomorrow and another ride. Although I can only touch the ground with my toes while sitting on the saddle, I am going to raise the seat a little, I don't seem to be extending my legs far enough when ridding. I would ride some more tonight but my butt is quite sore. I hope that will go away and is not a sign of a not so good saddle.

Second ride tonight. Rode bike path (paved) around one of the local lakes, 3-4 miles, about a half hr. Very nice, I'm hooked. Cant' wait for tomorrow and another ride. Although I can only touch the ground with my toes while sitting on the saddle, I am going to raise the seat a little, I don't seem to be extending my legs far enough when ridding. I would ride some more tonight but my butt is quite sore. I hope that will go away and is not a sign of a not so good saddle.

How very cool. There's nothing quite like rediscovering bicycling, no? Don't worry too much about getting it all perfect- there will be little aches and pains and there's no reason to push yourself too hard. Just get out and ride as many days as the weather permits.

Second ride tonight. Rode bike path (paved) around one of the local lakes, 3-4 miles, about a half hr. Very nice, I'm hooked. Cant' wait for tomorrow and another ride. Although I can only touch the ground with my toes while sitting on the saddle, I am going to raise the seat a little, I don't seem to be extending my legs far enough when ridding. I would ride some more tonight but my butt is quite sore. I hope that will go away and is not a sign of a not so good saddle.

Sore butt initially is normal.

Go easy on raising the seat. I'd raise it about 1/4 inch, try that for awhile, and raise it another 1/4 inch if you think that you need to. Once you're close (and it sounds like you are) big changes are bad.

If you have someone you trust to ride with try this: After you've had a few miles to warm up, have your co-rider observe you while you are riding. If you are rocking your hips from side-to-side, lower your saddle. If you're dropping your heels below the pedals, raise your saddle a little.

Second ride tonight. Rode bike path (paved) around one of the local lakes, 3-4 miles, about a half hr. Very nice, I'm hooked. Cant' wait for tomorrow and another ride. Although I can only touch the ground with my toes while sitting on the saddle, I am going to raise the seat a little, I don't seem to be extending my legs far enough when ridding. I would ride some more tonight but my butt is quite sore. I hope that will go away and is not a sign of a not so good saddle.

Looks Like I have to agree with the last two posters. Only thing I would add is Nutrition- You have enough milage now for a Pie stop. Find a cafe- prop the bike up so you can see it and stare it out.

If the salesman sold you a bike where you can not firmly plant your feet on the ground while seated on the saddle he did not set up the bike correctly. If it is still the case after adjusting the saddle height correctly for your leg length (knee just slightly bent at the maximum extension) then he sold you a bike with too large a frame. Appears to be someone more interested in making a sale than meeting the customer's needs correctly. I was going to suggest you look at used bike which is heresy for someone who long ago worked in a bike shop. There are many quality used bikes for sale. Often they have may have had very little use by the first owner. It helps if you can recognize a quality bike from a junk bike if you chose that route. Now days you can go online and get specifications, owner's reviews, and original prices for most of the common used bikes.

Second ride tonight. Rode bike path (paved) around one of the local lakes, 3-4 miles, about a half hr. Very nice, I'm hooked. Cant' wait for tomorrow and another ride. Although I can only touch the ground with my toes while sitting on the saddle, I am going to raise the seat a little, I don't seem to be extending my legs far enough when ridding. I would ride some more tonight but my butt is quite sore. I hope that will go away and is not a sign of a not so good saddle.

I'll be 69 yo Saturday and I was 290 in 2008 when I started riding. I bought a hybrid Trek and loved it until I started trying to ride with a group and went up to a road bike. I kept trying to find a better saddle and my friend who has been riding a long time kept asking me "how many miles I had ridden?" "It's not the saddle it's your butt" Sure nuff I'm down about 40lbs and last Saturday I rode 70 miles for my "birthday ride" and my legs were sore but my butt didn't hurt and I can't wait til tomorrow when I can ride again:)

If the salesman sold you a bike where you can not firmly plant your feet on the ground while seated on the saddle he did not set up the bike correctly. If it is still the case after adjusting the saddle height correctly for your leg length (knee just slightly bent at the maximum extension) then he sold you a bike with too large a frame. Appears to be someone more interested in making a sale than meeting the customer's needs correctly.

???.
I do not own a bike that I can stand flat footed with both feet on the ground while seated. One foot or both on tiptoes, yes, but not both feet flat. Except for a foot forward design like a Townie or a recumbent, I don't see how anyone could do that with a saddle high enough for good leg extension.

^^^
What VT said makes no sense - I read this several times and don't get it. I agree with you BluesDawg, but I suspect we both missed something in the translation.

^^^
What VT said makes no sense - I read this several times and don't get it. I agree with you BluesDawg, but I suspect we both missed something in the translation.

Same here. I've never owned a bike where I could do that. On tip toes. And it doesn't matter what kind of bike, road, hybrid, comfort, MTB. The only bike where it would even be possible would be something like a BMX bike.

To the OP. Don't forget hydration. There's a ton of good advice in BF on that topic. Make sure you drink before you're thirsty and if you're going to be on the road for more than an hour water won't be enough.

That sounds like a cracking choice. Enjoy, and ride the tyres off it!

Some discussion here about saddle height. I think it's accepted as normal that you need to scootch forward off the saddle before putting a foot down at a stop, and that the full leg extension will be 'heel on the pedal when it's fullest down and butt in the saddle' so you have a little knee bend in normal riding when each pedal is at the lowest.

So, it's normal not to be able to come to a stop without edging forward off the saddle before you try to put a foot down

Welcome to the tribe fsrgp. You've gotted good advice here and your LBS has also served you well with that Marin.

Thanks, Well, I couldn't ride last night, I had to work until 11:00 p.m. Probably good, give my sore butt a little rest. I will be going out this evening. I am glad to hear that raising the seat from where it is now is o.k. I can put the ball of both feet firmly on the ground now, I will follow the advice given and only raise it 1/4" at a time till it seems right. I'd like to know more about the hydration plan, my LBS sells some tablets in a tube that they say is the best thing, but, they are expensive. Is there a cheap option?

I'd like to know more about the hydration plan, my LBS sells some tablets in a tube that they say is the best thing, but, they are expensive. Is there a cheap option?

If you aren't going far and hard, and if it's not stinking hot, all you need is water. For more demanding rides or if you are sweating profusely, you need to replace electrolytes. I favor Powerade or Gatorade, but some people buy tablets/powder and add it to their water. If you keep your eye out for sales (lots of 2-for-1 deals at gas station minimarts this time of year), Powerade isn't too expensive. Can't say I love the taste or the colors, but it isn't so bad.

Most all of us have one or two water bottle cages on our seat tubes and or down tubes. A few gulps/sips every 10-15 minutes, at traffic lights or while riding and we're good.

If you ride firmly on the bike and you are new to cycling- You will know when you are thirsty. By that time it is too late as you will be de-hydrated.

I take several new riders out and I always have to tell them to drink. I make a point of stopping about 10 minutes into a ride and making them drink. As they gain more experience- they start sipping as they go. Not much at a time but frequently. I have a rule of 1 bottle per hour when riding but hot weather or high exertion and that will be at least 1 Litre per hour.

You can get additives that are protein based or Carb based and probably lots of others but the one to get is one that is Isotonic. It has essential salts in it that aid thirst quenching and the salts "Supposedly" stop cramps. They come in all flavours so find one that you like.

Thanks to everyone for all of your suggestions, comments and advice. I went to the new shop just 2 miles from where I live today after church. I took my printout with me and asked all the questions. The sales guy answered them all and more. He said he had one bike that he thought would fit my needs but showed me several others first. Guess what? I just got back from a ride on my new bike. My legs feel like rubber and I am exhausted but it was great fun and I think I made the right choice. It's a Marin San Rafael. You all probably know much more about it than I do, but from my perspective, even though the bars are only a couple of inches higher than the seat, my half hr. ride was very comfortable, the hills were doable and I am very pleased. This would not have been my choice had I not gotten your help here. Thanks sooo much!!
That's great! Enjoy the ride.

If the salesman sold you a bike where you can not firmly plant your feet on the ground while seated on the saddle he did not set up the bike correctly.
Huh? I've never been told that by anyone in any bike shop, including high-end shops that have Retul and Serotta fit systems.

???.
I do not own a bike that I can stand flat footed with both feet on the ground while seated. One foot or both on tiptoes, yes, but not both feet flat. Except for a foot forward design like a Townie or a recumbent, I don't see how anyone could do that with a saddle high enough for good leg extension.

Same here. If I need to stand flat-footed when at a stop, I have to hop down off the saddle. Otherwise it's one tip-toe or another.

If you ride firmly on the bike and you are new to cycling- You will know when you are thirsty. By that time it is too late as you will be de-hydrated.

I take several new riders out and I always have to tell them to drink. I make a point of stopping about 10 minutes into a ride and making them drink. As they gain more experience- they start sipping as they go. Not much at a time but frequently. I have a rule of 1 bottle per hour when riding but hot weather or high exertion and that will be at least 1 Litre per hour.

You can get additives that are protein based or Carb based and probably lots of others but the one to get is one that is Isotonic. It has essential salts in it that aid thirst quenching and the salts "Supposedly" stop cramps. They come in all flavours so find one that you like.

I sweat a lot so the "tablets in a tube" (Endurolytes) work for me. I go by the following rules:
- Any ride under an hour where I'm not going to be sweating buckets, I'll use water otherwise it's an electrolyte replacement.
- Any ride over an hour, I'll use an electrolyte replacement. Gatorade and Powerade have more sugar in them than I like so I'll use Endurolytes. They are kind of expensive but they've solved my cramping issues.
- I always drink before I get thirsty ( repeat it to yourself like a mantra)
- I always make sure I eat something every hour. Or I'll bonk for sure.

Some people make their own. I've used slightly dilute orange juice with a pinch of salt with some success as well but I've found that things like Endurolytes work a lot better.

A couple of homebrew suggestions:

http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/nutrition-think-drink-14197/
http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport2/hi/health_and_fitness/4289704.stm

Sounds like a Hybrid (aka comfort bike) is your best bet at this point. I agree with those who said that there is little difference between models when you are buying an entry-level comfort bike and that the bike shop is way more important than the brand. Along those lines, go to a shop that's been there for a while and that uses a professional bike fitting system. Pay the extra hundred plus for a good fitting. It will make WAY more difference than disc brakes, lighter weight, more gears, etc. Bike fitting, both the science and art of it, has improved a lot over the last few decades. Everyone's body is unique and there's much more to bike fitting than seat height and making sure your knee is behind the pedal axel. The best bike in the world is the one you like to ride and you won't like any bike for long if it doesn't fit you well.

Thanks, Well, I couldn't ride last night, I had to work until 11:00 p.m. Probably good, give my sore butt a little rest. I will be going out this evening. I am glad to hear that raising the seat from where it is now is o.k. I can put the ball of both feet firmly on the ground now, I will follow the advice given and only raise it 1/4" at a time till it seems right. I'd like to know more about the hydration plan, my LBS sells some tablets in a tube that they say is the best thing, but, they are expensive. Is there a cheap option?

Not sure what tube you are referring to but the ones I get are NUUN, I have used them for several years and they work great. I only need them when it is hot and I will be out for a few hours or more. I have hear people use salt tablets that you buy in drug store, they are cheap. It I did that I would also take some TUMs (Calcium Chloride) and come potassium to go along with it, that way you are getting a more complete mix of electrolytes. If you are really interested in experimenting, I recall a lot of running forums discuss this topic regularly - do a search.

. I have hear people use salt tablets that you buy in drug store, they are cheap. It I did that I would also take some TUMs (Calcium Chloride) and come potassium to go along with it, that way you are getting a more complete mix of electrolytes. If you are really interested in experimenting, I recall a lot of running forums discuss this topic regularly - do a search.

I wouldn't mess with that without a lot of research. Severe K/Na imbalances can cause heart arrhythmia.