Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - I need help getting an idea of what kind of bike I need.

Okay, so I just joined here to ask for some help on finding a bike.

I'm Coby, I'm 20yo, and live in Utah. I want to get into cycling to help me lose some weight. I'm in dire need of some cardio and regular exercise. I'm overweight, out of shape and lazy. But I know that I need to make some lifestyle changes and one thing I need to do is start exercising regularly. So I want to start cycling soon, but first I need a bike. I have all the time in the world right now, so I think it would be wise for me to start riding a bike daily for extended distances.

I really know nothing about road bikes or road cycling, so Id appreciate it if your replies are easy for a new person such as myself to understand.

A few of the questions I have are:

How much would I need to spend on a bike so I can just get cycling?
What are some specific things I need to look for in a bike?
What are some good brands/models to look into?
What is the regular maintenance needed for a cycling bike?
Are there any fundamental cycling things I should learn at first?
What other equipment/gear would you recommend?

I'll for sure have some more questions as I start reading about this more, but that's it for now.

Thanks

Welcome!

How much to spend depends on your budget, what you want in the bike, and how vain you are.

In a bike, look for a sturdy wheelset and gearing appropriate for your riding terrain. Living in UT, you may want to start out with a triple chainring, meaning there are 3 chainrings at the pedals, giving you a wider range of gears including the smallest ring to climb hills.

Brands/models, lots to choose from. Do you want a drop bar road bike, a flat bar road hybrid, a flat bar bike with larger tires, or a mountain bike? Where do you plan on riding, on the roads or on the trails?

If the bike is set up properly, there is not a great deal of maintenance. Keep air in the tires, learn how to fix a flat tire, lube the chain every so often, keep things clean.

If you know how to ride a bike, you will be fine. Just get started, and you will learn what questions to ask and answer some of them yourself.

Equipment to get, helmet, gloves are nice, and enough tools to change a flat on the road. Tube, tire levers, pump or CO2, and multi tool. Oh, and water bottles or hydration pack. Cycling clothes aren't necessary to get started, but you can get them.

I started riding after Christmas one year, when I was embarrassed that the pants my wife bought me wouldn't fit. I had finally had enough. I got my 10 year old Wal-Mart mountain bike down from the garage ceiling, put air in the tires, and went riding in my basketball shorts and a t-shirt. First ride was about 3 miles.

I rode that mountain bike for about 6 weeks. It had friction shifters, and it wouldn't shift into the largest or smallest cog in the back, I had no idea how to adjust anything on it. But I rode it anyway, using what gears worked. Then spokes started to break, the rims were getting pretty wobbly so that using the brakes (which didn't work very good) was not comfortable. I went to the bike shop, thinking I could buy a couple of spokes and fix things up, but found out there was much more bent/broken than I thought.

So I came home with this bike. This picture is after I put narrower tires on it, bar ends and a saddle bag.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff293/aaron858/100_5654.jpg

It cost me about $400, it worked out great for me. Got me hooked on cycling, I put a lot of miles on that hybrid.

Here is some reading for you.
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/470422-Introduction-to-the-Road-Cycling-Forum-References-and-Newbie-Questions-Answered-Here

It first depends on exactly what type of riding you do. It sounds like you are leaning more towards a road bike. I just got my first road bike, and it was not a very fast process. You should first start by visiting a local bike store and being fitted for a bike. Honestly, I think it is best to get your first bike from a local store rather than ordering online - just for the service you will need just getting started (but this is not the cheapest way to go). You can save some money online, but you will be lacking the service, and probably still end up paying a LBS for some adjustments, or assembly and tunings.

It is hard to reccomend specific brands. I was dead set on one brand that I thought looked the best, and everyone kept suggesting. But after trying it and several other brands it did not feel as good for me as one of the other ones. Once you get an idea of what size you need, ride as many as you can in your price range and decide which one you like the best - they all will feel a little different. You said you are overweight, so I would pay attention to what wheels come on which bikes and talk to the bike store about concerns for weight on different wheels - they may offer you an upgrade on some more sturdy wheels for a good price. There are several well known brands - Trek, Cannondale, Specialized...... - not that they are any better than others, however, they will have little better resale value than some of your lesser known brands - which is something I took into consideration being new to this and not knowing if it was something I would stick with. Fortunately I am now obsessed, and can't imagine selling my bike.

Here are some of the items I bought to go along with it: Clipless pedals and shoes, a couple pairs of bike shorts or bibs (I know you may say you don't want to wear the skin tight shorts - you can wear shorts over them, but your butt and sensitive areas will feel much better), a helmet, a good pump with a gauge on it (remember you will be putting 100-120 psi in these tires), a spare tube or two, tire levers, an emerngency CO2 pump, a seat bag, a drink bottle and cage. You don't have to have all of this, but you definitely need to factor the cost of all of the extras into your budget to buy.

Where in Utah do you live? Are you in a city, or out near the trails somewhere?

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll try to answer all your questions here.

Since I've decided that losing weight and getting in shape is priority #1, I've set my budget at $1100. Hopefully that can get me everything I need.

Although I'd like to do mountain-biking right now, there just aren't many trails for it in my area. So I just want a road bike to start out with, then as I lose some weight and get stronger I'll think about a mountain bike.

I see you mention to look into the wheels to make sure they're up to the task, but what do I need to look for?

I assume that in my price range used is the best way to go. Is there anything specific I need to look for when buying a bike used? Can you recommend any online places where I can look for bikes used?

Thanks,
Coby

As someone who's lost almost 90lbs in the past 4 months, let me share one tip with you: it's all about diet. Really, unless you're training for the olympics, you cannot out-train a bad diet.

As someone who's lost almost 90lbs in the past 4 months, let me share one tip with you: it's all about diet. Really, unless you're training for the olympics, you cannot out-train a bad diet.

To add to this. Exercise keeps your metabolism from going down too far. It's also an active measure (You're doing something) Where as not eating as much is passive. Eventually (for me 8 months) the exercise is a reward in and of itself.

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll try to answer all your questions here.

Since I've decided that losing weight and getting in shape is priority #1, I've set my budget at $1100. Hopefully that can get me everything I need.

Although I'd like to do mountain-biking right now, there just aren't many trails for it in my area. So I just want a road bike to start out with, then as I lose some weight and get stronger I'll think about a mountain bike.

I see you mention to look into the wheels to make sure they're up to the task, but what do I need to look for?

I assume that in my price range used is the best way to go. Is there anything specific I need to look for when buying a bike used? Can you recommend any online places where I can look for bikes used?

Thanks,
Coby

Hi Coby, I think we could better answer some of your questions if you give us an idea of just how heavy you are. A 250lb rider doesn't "need" the same stuff as a 350lb rider. I say "need" because a lot of things aren't truly necessary, but may add to your comfort. Being 20, you can deal with discomfort.

I would reccomend a cyclocross bike. They are like stout road bikes, and have knobbie tires in case you do see a trail you want to go ride down. It's not a mountain bike, don't treat it like one. They also typically have a stronger wheelset than a comparably priced road bike. Around 1100 bucks...look at a Specialized Tricross: http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?spid=52721&scid=1003&scname=Path%2FGravel I have the sport version, a 2009, and it's been a great bike. Add slick tires and you got a competent roadie/commuter.

I would never buy a used cyclocross bike because you run a great risk of them having the snot beaten out of them. I tend not to reccomend a used bike to a novice because they really are a crapshoot...until you know exactly what you are looking for. Same deal with buying online, until you know your size and recognize the differences in geometry, it's a gamble.

Bau

Since I've decided that losing weight and getting in shape is priority #1, I've set my budget at $1100. Hopefully that can get me everything I need.


I assume that in my price range used is the best way to go.

Actually, there a LOT of very good high quality bikes that you can get BRAND NEW from your LBS way below that price point. You'd even have money left over for extra gear like, helmet, gloves, etc. Like kstephens pointed out, as a newbie, its best if you went to your LBS and got fitted for the right bike. They would also be able to answer all of your questions and do any adjustments you need. With a used bike the owner may or may not know anything about the bike and definitely wouldn't be able to give you the customer service you need and deserve. With your LBS you become a customer (hopefully) for life.

MrsN

I' d second cyclocross bikes as a good all rounder. Take a look at the surly cross-check as it is more versatile than most and can handle some trails. Touring bikes also make good all round bikes and tend to have be more clyde friendly from the start. Jamis bikes are pretty good bang for the buck. Find a good dealer and try it multiple times before you buy, fit is hugely important. If you're just starting out with drop bars, set them higher than the saddle and don't let them set up a low drop position initially. You can lower a stem but it's harder to fix a steerer tube that is cut too low.

But make sure you feel comfortable with what the shop is telling you. If not, go somewhere you are comfortable. A good shop will help with so many things, but there are many shops that can't or won't be helpful. In my area, there are six shops, only one gets my repeat business. The good ones try to build a longterm relationship with you. Rei tends to carry or be able to order some decent bikes, but their service departments often leave something to be desired.

Look into cycling groups in your area or your state gov webpage, they'll probably. Have info on your local laws, routes to ride, maybe even basic cycling skills classes.

As far as gear goes, start with the bike and a water bottle. You don't need Lycra and not right away if you decide you do want it. I favor wool, some ride in lycra, some in everyday clothes. See what works for you. If you decide to ride to work or school you'll have different needs than if you ride recreationally. So ride and see how you want to ride before investing in stuff you may or may not use.

I think the 1100 was the total budget. . for everything.

But +1 on the cross bike recommendation. That's what I have and darned if it's not fun fun fun fun.

I dont know if this will help, but i took a quick ride on a Giant Rapid 3 (http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/rapid.3/7298/44052/) last night and the thing is sweeeeeet. its like a road bike with a bit more upright position than one, and a bit more road bike position than a hybrid/comfort bike.

I came home from the LBS looking for stuff to sell on craigslist to fund the price tag.

Since you are just starting out I would not set your budget anywhere near the $1100 mark. (That is taking into account that part of that $1100 will go toward helmet/pump/tools etc.) Your first bike is kind of a crapshoot. You may fall in love with it, you may end up hating it. At this point you don't know enough to know what you don't know. You don't want to spend too much on specialized bike and very quickly find out that it doesn't do what you find you really like doing the most. However, the opposite is also true--if you spend next to nothing on a department store junk bike you run the risk of it being such a pain to ride that it sours you on the whole idea.

Don't worry about brands--the name on the bike means next to nothing. It's all about the components. (Of course, a reputable brand is going to use better components vs a department store bike so I suppose the brand does mean something. . .) At our sizes the wheels are THE MOST IMPORTANT THING. A quick rule of thumb is more spokes are better. We are kinda like large breasted women trying to wear tiny, frilly, lacy brassieres--less spokes may be sexy but we need firm support!

I think you could find a good hybrid or cyclocross bike somewhere in the $500 range and ride it for a while. You will discover things that you either like or don't like about it. During this period of time start saving for your next bike. (Like I said earlier, it is quite possible that you will love your first bike never part with it. I know I did)

Craigslist is also a good resource since used bikes can be had for a fraction of their new price. There are always great bikes available on CL. (Assuming you are somewhere close enough to one of the Craigslist cities to make The List a possibility.) You can always come on here and ask if a CL find is a good deal or not.

So, to bring this novella to a close: 1) Find a decent hybrid or cyclocross bike, get a helmet, a good pump, some basic tools, a seat pack with extra tubes and some way to pump them up. 2) Watch some YouTube videos so you know how to change your tubes and do basic adjustments. 3) Ride that bad boy like you stole it!

Since you are new here there is one more thing you need to know: we are going to be needing some pictures when you get the new bike. It's just how things are done here!

If you're doing this to get in shape, speed isn't everything. A touring type road bike that you can easily add a rear rack and/or panniers to, will provide a lot of flexibility. At some point you may find yourself wanting to ride to the grocery store or some other place 10 or 20 miles away and you may find panniers useful. You might find a friend to go on an overnight ride with, camping. Even bringing a tent is reasonable with a rack and panniers. You'll also get good low gearing with a touring type bike, which is a huge help for anyone overweight and working at getting into shape. A cross bike may also be a great idea. Some come ready for racks but most don't have braze ons for front racks. Just something to consider.

Although I'd like to do mountain-biking right now, there just aren't many trails for it in my area. So I just want a road bike to start out with, then as I lose some weight and get stronger I'll think about a mountain bike.

It sounds like a cyclocross bike might be right for you. Think of it as a heavy, but strong road bike.

Coby, Congrats on you lifestyle change decision.

A 'blank sheet' suggestion is really harder because there are so many critical variables such as your weight and fit of the bike itself (bikes are kind of like shoes, a real PIA if the size isn't correct). If you're less than 300 lbs. I suggest a hybrid with 36 spoke 700c wheels, over 300 lbs. and I suggest something with 36 spoke 26" wheels (stronger).

Go to a bike shop to find the correct size of bicycle, there should be good ones in the $600 range. You'll NEED a helmet and WANT a saddle bag, tire tools, frame mounted air pump, tire repair patches and a spare tube. Brands of bicycle aren't too important at this point, Trek, Specialized, Cannondale and Giant are perhaps the most popular with many others equally well built.

HTH, Brad

A good bike shop is more important than a particular brand.
Any affordable bike has a strong enough frame but the weak point are the wheels. Depending on your weight you may need to pick with care. Generally, fancy, modern low-spoke wheels dont have the strength, reliability and repairability of std wheels.
There is more to cycling than "training" and "fitness programs". If you incorporate riding into your everyday transportation you will excercise more without thinking. A useful everyday bike needs useful features such as rack and fender eyelets, sufficient tyre clearance and low-enough gears.

If you can find a used Hybrid style bike in reasonable condition, you can start riding for a much lower startup cost and you will gain some experience and knowledge if you decide to get a road racer. Lots of sport riders find 2 bikes useful, one for errands and one for training and events.

Firstly, thanks for the replies everyone. I appreciate your help.



As someone who's lost almost 90lbs in the past 4 months, let me share one tip with you: it's all about diet. Really, unless you're training for the olympics, you cannot out-train a bad diet.

Yeah, that's going to be difficult but I need to do it. I plan on coupling cycling with a good diet and weight training. My end goal would be ~90lbs.

How have you lost all that so fast? I bet that feels absolutely amazing.




Hi Coby, I think we could better answer some of your questions if you give us an idea of just how heavy you are. A 250lb rider doesn't "need" the same stuff as a 350lb rider. I say "need" because a lot of things aren't truly necessary, but may add to your comfort. Being 20, you can deal with discomfort.

I would reccomend a cyclocross bike. They are like stout road bikes, and have knobbie tires in case you do see a trail you want to go ride down. It's not a mountain bike, don't treat it like one. They also typically have a stronger wheelset than a comparably priced road bike. Around 1100 bucks...look at a Specialized Tricross: http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?spid=52721&scid=1003&scname=Path%2FGravel I have the sport version, a 2009, and it's been a great bike. Add slick tires and you got a competent roadie/commuter.

I would never buy a used cyclocross bike because you run a great risk of them having the snot beaten out of them. I tend not to reccomend a used bike to a novice because they really are a crapshoot...until you know exactly what you are looking for. Same deal with buying online, until you know your size and recognize the differences in geometry, it's a gamble.

Bau

I'm about 290lbs right now. I would like to weigh around 200lbs after some hard work and commitment.

I'll look into those Cyclocross bikes. I'll call some local shops and see what they have. In general they are pretty strong and could support me?




Actually, there a LOT of very good high quality bikes that you can get BRAND NEW from your LBS way below that price point. You'd even have money left over for extra gear like, helmet, gloves, etc. Like kstephens pointed out, as a newbie, its best if you went to your LBS and got fitted for the right bike. They would also be able to answer all of your questions and do any adjustments you need. With a used bike the owner may or may not know anything about the bike and definitely wouldn't be able to give you the customer service you need and deserve. With your LBS you become a customer (hopefully) for life.

MrsN


Yeah, I want new. So I'll look around locally and see what is in my budget. I'll make sure to get some proper gear too.




I' d second cyclocross bikes as a good all rounder. Take a look at the surly cross-check as it is more versatile than most and can handle some trails. Touring bikes also make good all round bikes and tend to have be more clyde friendly from the start. Jamis bikes are pretty good bang for the buck. Find a good dealer and try it multiple times before you buy, fit is hugely important. If you're just starting out with drop bars, set them higher than the saddle and don't let them set up a low drop position initially. You can lower a stem but it's harder to fix a steerer tube that is cut too low.

But make sure you feel comfortable with what the shop is telling you. If not, go somewhere you are comfortable. A good shop will help with so many things, but there are many shops that can't or won't be helpful. In my area, there are six shops, only one gets my repeat business. The good ones try to build a longterm relationship with you. Rei tends to carry or be able to order some decent bikes, but their service departments often leave something to be desired.

Look into cycling groups in your area or your state gov webpage, they'll probably. Have info on your local laws, routes to ride, maybe even basic cycling skills classes.

As far as gear goes, start with the bike and a water bottle. You don't need Lycra and not right away if you decide you do want it. I favor wool, some ride in lycra, some in everyday clothes. See what works for you. If you decide to ride to work or school you'll have different needs than if you ride recreationally. So ride and see how you want to ride before investing in stuff you may or may not use.

Thanks. I'll look into those kinds of bikes. And make sure that I buy from a a reputable store I trust. I definitely like knowing that I've made the right purchase.

I think I'll get some padded bike shorts and possibly a somewhat bigger seat. Those skinny seats are pretty uncomfortable to me, but I'm sure it's something I'd get used to after time.




I think the 1100 was the total budget. . for everything.

But +1 on the cross bike recommendation. That's what I have and darned if it's not fun fun fun fun.


Yeah, hopefully $1100 for everything.

It's starting to sound like a cross bike is the way to go. I'm curious though, how will I know what bike is strong enough for me? What should the frame be made of?




Since you are just starting out I would not set your budget anywhere near the $1100 mark. (That is taking into account that part of that $1100 will go toward helmet/pump/tools etc.) Your first bike is kind of a crapshoot. You may fall in love with it, you may end up hating it. At this point you don't know enough to know what you don't know. You don't want to spend too much on specialized bike and very quickly find out that it doesn't do what you find you really like doing the most. However, the opposite is also true--if you spend next to nothing on a department store junk bike you run the risk of it being such a pain to ride that it sours you on the whole idea.

Don't worry about brands--the name on the bike means next to nothing. It's all about the components. (Of course, a reputable brand is going to use better components vs a department store bike so I suppose the brand does mean something. . .) At our sizes the wheels are THE MOST IMPORTANT THING. A quick rule of thumb is more spokes are better. We are kinda like large breasted women trying to wear tiny, frilly, lacy brassieres--less spokes may be sexy but we need firm support!

I think you could find a good hybrid or cyclocross bike somewhere in the $500 range and ride it for a while. You will discover things that you either like or don't like about it. During this period of time start saving for your next bike. (Like I said earlier, it is quite possible that you will love your first bike never part with it. I know I did)

Craigslist is also a good resource since used bikes can be had for a fraction of their new price. There are always great bikes available on CL. (Assuming you are somewhere close enough to one of the Craigslist cities to make The List a possibility.) You can always come on here and ask if a CL find is a good deal or not.

So, to bring this novella to a close: 1) Find a decent hybrid or cyclocross bike, get a helmet, a good pump, some basic tools, a seat pack with extra tubes and some way to pump them up. 2) Watch some YouTube videos so you know how to change your tubes and do basic adjustments. 3) Ride that bad boy like you stole it!

Since you are new here there is one more thing you need to know: we are going to be needing some pictures when you get the new bike. It's just how things are done here!

I don't want to spend that much on a bike, but if I needed to I could.

When you say a good bike for $500, are you talking new or used?

And I'll be sure to post pics when I get it!





If you're doing this to get in shape, speed isn't everything. A touring type road bike that you can easily add a rear rack and/or panniers to, will provide a lot of flexibility. At some point you may find yourself wanting to ride to the grocery store or some other place 10 or 20 miles away and you may find panniers useful. You might find a friend to go on an overnight ride with, camping. Even bringing a tent is reasonable with a rack and panniers. You'll also get good low gearing with a touring type bike, which is a huge help for anyone overweight and working at getting into shape. A cross bike may also be a great idea. Some come ready for racks but most don't have braze ons for front racks. Just something to consider.


Yeah, I don't care about how fast I'm going as long as I'm getting a good workout.

Hopefully after a while I would like to start riding it larger distances.



It sounds like a cyclocross bike might be right for you. Think of it as a heavy, but strong road bike.

Sounds good to me. I like the look of them as well so that's a plus. Now to decide on a brand/model.





Coby, Congrats on you lifestyle change decision.

A 'blank sheet' suggestion is really harder because there are so many critical variables such as your weight and fit of the bike itself (bikes are kind of like shoes, a real PIA if the size isn't correct). If you're less than 300 lbs. I suggest a hybrid with 36 spoke 700c wheels, over 300 lbs. and I suggest something with 36 spoke 26" wheels (stronger).

Go to a bike shop to find the correct size of bicycle, there should be good ones in the $600 range. You'll NEED a helmet and WANT a saddle bag, tire tools, frame mounted air pump, tire repair patches and a spare tube. Brands of bicycle aren't too important at this point, Trek, Specialized, Cannondale and Giant are perhaps the most popular with many others equally well built.

HTH, Brad


Alright thanks. I'm 290lbs. What does the 700c refer to with the wheels?




A good bike shop is more important than a particular brand.
Any affordable bike has a strong enough frame but the weak point are the wheels. Depending on your weight you may need to pick with care. Generally, fancy, modern low-spoke wheels dont have the strength, reliability and repairability of std wheels.
There is more to cycling than "training" and "fitness programs". If you incorporate riding into your everyday transportation you will excercise more without thinking. A useful everyday bike needs useful features such as rack and fender eyelets, sufficient tyre clearance and low-enough gears.

If you can find a used Hybrid style bike in reasonable condition, you can start riding for a much lower startup cost and you will gain some experience and knowledge if you decide to get a road racer. Lots of sport riders find 2 bikes useful, one for errands and one for training and events.

Yeah, I'm going to make sure I find a good shop to get it from.

And I will for sure start riding the bike around town when I need to go somewhere.

Hey Coby ... Not a recommendation by any stretch (though I do love my bike) ... I'm 6'3", 270, started at 305 or so when I really got back into riding and I ride a Trek 1.2 Triple ... it's a road bike, not a cross or anything like that.

If it can support me, it can surely support you. It's an aluminum frame.

I rode about a thousand miles last year. Not as many so far this year, but I'm getting there.

Just understand that you have LOTS of options ... and your size isn't the hindrance you think it is.

Mainly get a bike that fits you, that you like and that you love to ride, because once you start, you'll want to ride all the time.

Hey Coby ... Not a recommendation by any stretch (though I do love my bike) ... I'm 6'3", 270, started at 305 or so when I really got back into riding and I ride a Trek 1.2 Triple ... it's a road bike, not a cross or anything like that.

If it can support me, it can surely support you. It's an aluminum frame.

I rode about a thousand miles last year. Not as many so far this year, but I'm getting there.

Just understand that you have LOTS of options ... and your size isn't the hindrance you think it is.

Mainly get a bike that fits you, that you like and that you love to ride, because once you start, you'll want to ride all the time.

Okay, thanks.

I just want to make sure I get something strong enough.

I'm trying to get an idea of prices and I'm just looking around online. Would something like this be a good option?

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/outlaw.htm

Sounds good to me. I like the look of them as well so that's a plus. Now to decide on a brand/model.

Why?

When I bought my road bike, I test rode a lot of bikes, and got the one that "spoke to" me. I continue to be happy with it eight or nine months later. Since you aren't into something very specialized ( a steel frame with bar end shifters that can haul a tent and lots of water, say ) the brand doesn't matter that much. All the CX bike makers will have something very nice in your price range. You should decide based on things like (ideally) how the bike fits you, if it has whatever features you want, its wheel strength and weight capacity, stuff like that.

The Outlaw you spotted looks nice. I really like disc brakes. Your stopping distance is much more consistent in the rain, and it's harder to get things stuck in them. Now, the downside is you'll be doing the maintenance yourself. For some people that's great, and for others, it's overwhelming. That's the thing about buying from the interwebz.

I'm trying to get an idea of prices and I'm just looking around online. Would something like this be a good option?

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/outlaw.htm

This would be a better choice:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/tourist.htm

Brad

I was actually just going to suggest looking at what Nashbar/Performance or BikesDirect had to offer. If you go that route, you should definitely take the wheels to a local shop and get them to look them over and adjust/true them before you put the rest of the bike together to ride. While the assembly is usually pretty easy when you order from those places, if you have a friend who is knowledgable about bikes and can help you, you should bribe them with beer for a little help.

Coby,

Bikes direct has some good prices, but as you are not too experienced in bike mechanics, I think you need to stay with a local shop. If you give a general idea about where you are in Utah, maybe someone one can give you a shop reccomendation.

I often suggest Craigslist, but again if you are not real hands on with bikes, you might not know what all to look at. If you have someone who knows what they are doing you might go this way and then look into how to maintain your bike classes...... just as an idea here is are some items from SLC craigslist.

This would work if you are not too tall (5' 6 or so) Trek 1500 $250
http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/bik/2413246766.html

or this if you are taller (6ft plus)
http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/bik/2407009606.html

Size and fit are critical to being a happy biker who plans on spending some miles on the bike

Why?

When I bought my road bike, I test rode a lot of bikes, and got the one that "spoke to" me. I continue to be happy with it eight or nine months later. Since you aren't into something very specialized ( a steel frame with bar end shifters that can haul a tent and lots of water, say ) the brand doesn't matter that much. All the CX bike makers will have something very nice in your price range. You should decide based on things like (ideally) how the bike fits you, if it has whatever features you want, its wheel strength and weight capacity, stuff like that.

The Outlaw you spotted looks nice. I really like disc brakes. Your stopping distance is much more consistent in the rain, and it's harder to get things stuck in them. Now, the downside is you'll be doing the maintenance yourself. For some people that's great, and for others, it's overwhelming. That's the thing about buying from the interwebz.

I think what I'll do is look around online at the options in my price range, then try to find them locally.

That site has quite a few in the $500-$800 range that look good. I obviously still don't know enough to really know if they are good for me though.

What do you mean when you say the downside is the maintenance?


This would be a better choice:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/tourist.htm

Brad

Why's that? Better wheels?


I was actually just going to suggest looking at what Nashbar/Performance or BikesDirect had to offer. If you go that route, you should definitely take the wheels to a local shop and get them to look them over and adjust/true them before you put the rest of the bike together to ride. While the assembly is usually pretty easy when you order from those places, if you have a friend who is knowledgable about bikes and can help you, you should bribe them with beer for a little help.

Alright, I'll do that. That seems like a good idea to get them checked out before use.

I wish I knew someone who cycled, but I don't. Shouldn't be too had to meet some local people online though.

Coby,

Bikes direct has some good prices, but as you are not too experienced in bike mechanics, I think you need to stay with a local shop. If you give a general idea about where you are in Utah, maybe someone one can give you a shop reccomendation.

I often suggest Craigslist, but again if you are not real hands on with bikes, you might not know what all to look at. If you have someone who knows what they are doing you might go this way and then look into how to maintain your bike classes...... just as an idea here is are some items from SLC craigslist.

This would work if you are not too tall (5' 6 or so) Trek 1500 $250
http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/bik/2413246766.html

or this if you are taller (6ft plus)
http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/bik/2407009606.html

Size and fit are critical to being a happy biker who plans on spending some miles on the bike


Yeah, I'll try to go locally. It sounds like there's lots of benefits of doing so.

I'm about 6'3 so I assume I need a somewhat larger frame. What are the differences in frame sizes?

I'll take a look on CL and another big UT classified site. I live near SLC so that's probably where most of them are.

If you want to do mountain biking ultimately, one other option is to buy high pressure slicks with small 26x1.25 tubes for a mountain bike. The position isn't as good for raw speed, but it's a step up from trying to ride on streets with soft dirt tires. Still, the cross bike recommendation is good, just mentioning this as one option.
I would also urge that you get a taillight and headlight, so you will be more visible to other road users. Reflective vest is good too.
Frame can be pretty much anything. I advise avoiding carbon fiber on principle, they tend to be used on bikes for 'weight weenies' and thus built light rather than strong, and the way a carbon fiber frame fails is spectacular and apparently a little like something out of loony-tunes.
Just remember: Light, Strong, Cheap - pick any two. Removing 'cheap' can run the prices up amazingly high, so you're going to sacrifice 'light' every time. Heavy wheels, lots of spokes, look for adjectives like "solid", "bombproof" and the like.

At our sizes the wheels are THE MOST IMPORTANT THING. A quick rule of thumb is more spokes are better. We are kinda like large breasted women trying to wear tiny, frilly, lacy brassieres--less spokes may be sexy but we need firm support!

:roflmao2:

Great quote.

Yeah, I'll try to go locally. It sounds like there's lots of benefits of doing so.

I'm about 6'3 so I assume I need a somewhat larger frame. What are the differences in frame sizes?

I'll take a look on CL and another big UT classified site. I live near SLC so that's probably where most of them are.

here is guide to sizing for traditional road bikes....

Height 5'10" - 6'1" inseam 31.5" - 33" bike size 58 - 60 cm
Height 6'0" - 6'3" Inseam 32.5" - 34" 60 - 62 cm
Height 6'2" - 6'5" Inseam 34.5" - 36" 62 - 64 cm

Some newer bikes come in s/m/l/xl you would probably be on the edge of large to extra large at a guess

If you want to do mountain biking ultimately, one other option is to buy high pressure slicks with small 26x1.25 tubes for a mountain bike. The position isn't as good for raw speed, but it's a step up from trying to ride on streets with soft dirt tires. Still, the cross bike recommendation is good, just mentioning this as one option.
I would also urge that you get a taillight and headlight, so you will be more visible to other road users. Reflective vest is good too.
Frame can be pretty much anything. I advise avoiding carbon fiber on principle, they tend to be used on bikes for 'weight weenies' and thus built light rather than strong, and the way a carbon fiber frame fails is spectacular and apparently a little like something out of loony-tunes.
Just remember: Light, Strong, Cheap - pick any two. Removing 'cheap' can run the prices up amazingly high, so you're going to sacrifice 'light' every time. Heavy wheels, lots of spokes, look for adjectives like "solid", "bombproof" and the like.


Yeah, I do want to MTB, but I think just sticking to road and getting in shape is the best way to go right now.

I'm just looking at some Motobecane Cross bikes, and it seems that most of them have carbon fiber forks. At my weight should I try to avoid that?

I need to take a look on some cycle stores to get an idea of how much the other gear will cost so that I know what my budget will be for the bike itself.

here is guide to sizing for traditional road bikes....

Height 5'10" - 6'1" inseam 31.5" - 33" bike size 58 - 60 cm
Height 6'0" - 6'3" Inseam 32.5" - 34" 60 - 62 cm
Height 6'2" - 6'5" Inseam 34.5" - 36" 62 - 64 cm

Some newer bikes come in s/m/l/xl you would probably be on the edge of large to extra large at a guess


Oh okay, thanks for that. I kept seeing those measurements and assumed that I'd need the largest one, but wasn't sure.



And thanks for all the help everyone. It's really nice coming to a forum and getting a lot of help right off the bat. Shows the quality of the community here.

I think what I'll do is look around online at the options in my price range, then try to find them locally.

That site has quite a few in the $500-$800 range that look good. I obviously still don't know enough to really know if they are good for me though.

What do you mean when you say the downside is the maintenance?

All bikes need maintenance. They need a tune up after a few hundred miles as the cables stretch out. They'll need new brake pads from time to time, and a chain every 2,500 miles or so. The gears eventually wear out, the ones in the back maybe lasting three or four chains. Wheels "go out of" "true" meaning they don't spin perfect circles along a one-dimensional plane anymore, but start to wobble left and right toward the brakes. Et cetera.

Mind you, this stuff is mostly cheap and easy. If you buy the bike locally somewhere, the shop will probably do free adjustments for a year, which means you don't have to know how to do any of it, and you don't need tools. When you buy from BikesDirect, you get a much better price, but you have to either do the maintenance yourself, or find a bike mechanic to take it to. That's really not a bad thing, but it can be intimidating when you're first getting started. How much aptitude you have for this kind of stuff is pretty much what determines if BD is a good idea or not.

Truthfully Coby i'm not sure what direction to steer you since mosty everyone has made valid points.

This ebicycle calculator (http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer) might give you an idea of what sizes you are looking for.

Personally I would look at name brand bikes probably more mountain bike oriented. It sounds like you are looking for a bike to get exercise with first and foremost with going distances and everything else secondary.

While a MTB may not be ideal for distances, it usually provides a beefy frame, stable geometry, and strong wheels. In this case I think a hardtail might be worth a look. You can always swap tires to slicks while primarily riding on roads. You can also get bar ends or butterfly bars for more hand positions.

Personally I wouldn't go full in new. I would probably look at LBS (Local Bike Shops) that sell used and even Coops. Craigslist might also work.

As mentioned before fit is the most important thing. That plus your willingness to ride. Get a bike that you want to ride and is comfortable and you will have more fun regardless of the activity.

Some very good posts above. I'm going to type like I didn't read them ... I'll be redundant, but maybe something I said and something someone else said will click a little better.

How much would I need to spend on a bike so I can just get cycling?
>> If you're willing to wait a little, you can watch eBay and craigslist for good deals. My brother bought a vintage french-made road bike for $20 at a Police sale that got him started. I don't know exactly what you're after, but I can tell that I spent $425 for my first "real" bike in 2008. I could have paid less, I could have paid more. Tons of people start with walmart bikes, and that's great. Just go ride. :)

What are some specific things I need to look for in a bike?
>> The fit, the fit, and the fit. If you can get to a store, ride several. At first they'll all feel the same, and you'll feel self conscious being in a biker-snob store. How much do you want to lean over? Do you want to ride upright? A good store will help you find what you want. Tell them you're a first time rider up front, what distances and where you intend to ride and they'll help steer you. (Mind you, they're still SALESMEN so they'll also steer you to what they need to move off the floor, but ultimately they want you to be happy. Just be a little wary, is all).

What are some good brands/models to look into?
>> Start paying attention to bikers as you pass them on the road. The downtubes will start jumping out at you. Trek, Giant, Raleigh, Specialized, Bianchi, Fuji, and Cannondale are the bigger names, and not necessarily in any order. And I of course missed a few. There are mail-order made-in-Asia bikes that you can find online (but again, you need to know your fit, so try to go to a bike shop). There are a ton of smaller builders making top quality stuff.

The product lines are (especially at entry- and mid-lvl) very comparable. The main thing is to find a bike shop you're comfortable with, and buy a brand they support.

What is the regular maintenance needed for a cycling bike?
>> You will get varying answers. If you buy a new bike from a bike shop, they'll want to see it again in 30d or 100 miles for a tune up. This should be free to you. Beyond that, there are a lot of guys that tinker nonstop, and many who don't. If you ride in an area with lots of road hazards (thorns, broken glass, sharp rocks), it'll pay to inspect your tires inch by inch before every ride or two.

Personally, I pump up the tires EVERY time I get on, and I do a shakedown ride every spring to look for loose stuff and moving parts that need adjusted (shifters, brakes). Otherwise, I'm just listening for tinks and clicks that indicate something's wrong.


Are there any fundamental cycling things I should learn at first?
>> Keep watching this forum and you'll learn a lot about hydration, and how to handle longer rides in terms of nutrition. You should google the bike laws for your state and know what they are. ONYERLEFT or ONYERRIGHT is a standard callout from a biker to another biker/jogger/walker on a path to let people know you're there. Most people don't believe in riding with ipods playing.

Getting on your bike: As big guys, we should avoid doing the scoot-scoot-swing-your-leg-over as you push off like we did as kids. It'll kill spokes in your rear wheel. Before you move, straddle the bike, and push off from there.

Hitting bumps: If you're on a bumpy road with skinny-ish tires, stand up and try to equalize/vary the weight front/rear. Our enemy as big guys are busted spokes and pinched-flat tires. Think smooooth as you go over bumpy terrain.

On motivation: Set a schedule and stick with it. Keep a journal if you want. If Monday is bike night, you go biking!

On distances: Starting out, it's okay to go small. Our first ride was 1mi around the subdivision. Guidance I read here long ago was this: Every ride, try to go 10% farther until you get the distance you want. At the beginning the distance won't change much (and it's of course okay to go longer if you wanna), but later on you'll be tacking on multiple miles each ride.

On distance/wk: I read here once that "good things start happening at 50mi/wk." It was true for my wife and I, so I pass it along. :)

What other equipment/gear would you recommend?
>> Helmet and gloves are a must. Cyclocomputer (odometer/speedometer), although a smartphone w/ gps can work too. Water bottle and cage (maybe 2). If you ride at night you'll want a light set. Spare tubes/patch kit, a mini-tool, and tire changing kit to fit in a seat pouch is cheap insurance. A tire pump for your garage and a carry-along mini-pump to take with you. You don't have to buy all this on day 1, just go ride and you'll figure out how much you'll want to carry with along. You can look at biker shorts (not all of them are spandex), but starting from ground zero wear whatever's comfortable (I used $12 Champion jogging shorts for at least a year).

GOOD LUCK and GO RIDE

The Kona Jake is a good entry priced cyclocross bike. 'Cross bikes were originally intended to be raced on an off-road coarse, so they will be strong enough for your needs. Classic touring bikes will also do, but they tend to be more expensive and aren't as easy to find.
I second (third?) the recommendation for a good bike shop. If you know a lot about bikes and are handy at repairs, second-hand bikes off Craigslist, eBay, or Kijiji can be a good buy. If you aren't, a shop can save you frustration and take some of the risk out of buying because you can take it back if something isn't quite right. Most shops will take the time to fit the bike to you, changing stems and such if the length isn't quite right.

I think I learned something. . .

Okay so on Sunday I'm going to go to some shops and sit on some cyclocross bikes and maybe give them a test ride just to see if I like the general feel of them and what size I'd need.

And then, due to the prices of them, I think I'm going to order one a Motobecane bike off of Bikes Direct. I've decided that I really only want to spend about $800, and with one of those bikes I could get it and the gear.

Right now I'm looking at this one:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom_cross_cx3.htm

What are your guys' thought on it? Would it be good/strong enough for me?

Thanks,
Coby

I guess I don't understand the singular focus on a cross bike.

This is just my opinion, but a road bike will support you just fine ... it's a viable option for commuting with some additional equipment (panniers, etc) and it's a viable option for straight road riding for fitness/endurance without any additional equipment (and any equipment added on for commuting can be removed easily).

Again, just my opinion ...

I'd love a cross bike ... for doing actual cyclocross.

But if you're primarily going to ride on roads, a cross bike seems counter-intuitive.

ONYERLEFT or ONYERRIGHT is a standard callout from a biker to another biker/jogger/walker on a path to let people know you're there.
Personally I hate those. I just hear "right!" or "left!" and my immediate reaction is to turn that direction, which means that i'm stepping in front of the bike.. I just say "Passing". Or "Good day".
I'm going to say it again: YOU NEED A TAIL LIGHT! YOU NEED A HEAD LIGHT! Don't be a ninja! Use them any time you're on the road. It drives me absolutely insane when I hear people obsessing over helmets who aren't lit up and reflectored. It's like people obsessing over making sure they have Onstar in their car because of safety, then refusing to wear their seat belts.

Personally I hate those. I just hear "right!" or "left!" and my immediate reaction is to turn that direction, which means that i'm stepping in front of the bike.. I just say "Passing". Or "Good day".


Honestly, I do the same. Usually a smile and a "Passing," "Morning," or "Howdie." But I'll also say that I wish I'd been told in advance. The first time I heard ONYERLEFT, I didn't know what the heck was going on. ;)

Okay so on Sunday I'm going to go to some shops and sit on some cyclocross bikes and maybe give them a test ride just to see if I like the general feel of them and what size I'd need.

And then, due to the prices of them, I think I'm going to order one a Motobecane bike off of Bikes Direct. I've decided that I really only want to spend about $800, and with one of those bikes I could get it and the gear.

Right now I'm looking at this one:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom_cross_cx3.htm

What are your guys' thought on it? Would it be good/strong enough for me?

Thanks,
Coby

That looks like a decent bike( the orange one will probably be fastest :thumb:). That or the Windsor tourist referenced earlier would make for a good start for long distance riding. A lot of people don't like the Sora shifters, so try and find one with them when doing your test rides. If you find a good shop, find out what they would charge to true and tension the wheels for you before you ride it. You should bookmark the Park Tools website for instructions on setting up cantilever brakes and tuning the shifters.

There isn't going to be one right bike that someone can suggest that is guaranteed to work for you. Ultimately you'll make a decision and just figure it out. Looks like you're doing your best to hopefully get it right the 1st time but only time will tell. I was in your same boat last year and it really comes down to trial and error.

I ended up getting a cyclocross bike after reading myself in circles researching on the Internet about a year ago. I spent about 800 bucks on it. I rode it almost 1000 miles over last summer and liked it at first, but when I got into longer rides in the neighborhood of 50-60 miles I just wasn't digging the way I felt. So, then I got N+1itis and test rode pure rode bikes. Instantly liked them better. Test rode some more. Ended up spending 2,000 on a carbon rode bike when I weight around 275 lb. Like it much more than the cyclocross bike for the riding I do.

I think the ones who have been around this forum and patiently answering questions for years who give the advice, "your 1st bike won't be your last, buy something cheap until you know what you like/don't like/want/need/etc." have it right.

I wonder if my first bike (pretty nice Ross) hand't been stolen if I'd still have it? And then, if I knew what I know now, if I'd traded the Centurion Ironman I acquired to replace it for my roomate's C-dale?

Yeah.

Yes I would. But I'd probably also ask for a cash consideration as well.

Okay so on Sunday I'm going to go to some shops and sit on some cyclocross bikes and maybe give them a test ride just to see if I like the general feel of them and what size I'd need.

And then, due to the prices of them, I think I'm going to order one a Motobecane bike off of Bikes Direct. I've decided that I really only want to spend about $800, and with one of those bikes I could get it and the gear.

Right now I'm looking at this one:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom_cross_cx3.htm

What are your guys' thought on it? Would it be good/strong enough for me?

Thanks,
Coby

If you can afford the next model up, I'd buy that one for the better drive train. You'll be fine with a carbon fork, they are surprisingly stout.

When you are test riding the bikes, make sure you test out the ones that have a similar saddle to bar drop. IE: are the bars about level with the saddle or below? By roughly how much? If you're looking at a BD bike with an aggressive rider possition (large drop from saddle to bars) make sure the bikes you test out have a similar drop.

Other than that...it's kind of a d|ck move to waste a crap ton of an salesman's time asking 20 million questions, testing every bike, then leaving to go buy online. His time, building, stock, and utilities are not free...so if you do buy a BD bike (and there isn't anything wrong with them) make sure you come back to this shop for your accessories and repairs.

Other than that...it's kind of a d|ck move to waste a crap ton of an salesman's time asking 20 million questions, testing every bike, then leaving to go buy online. His time, building, stock, and utilities are not free...so if you do buy a BD bike (and there isn't anything wrong with them) make sure you come back to this shop for your accessories and repairs.

Absolutely. I'd buy the bike from the bike shop. Generally you get a free tuneup or two thrown in. Plus, the LBS where I purchased my bike will adjust derraileurs for free forever. Buy the accessories online.

Alright. So I'm going to call around some local shops to see what they have. Do you guys think it should be easy to find something in the $700 range?

The a local bike shop will get my business one way or another.

Okay, so like before, I'm really looking at this bike:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom_cross_cx3.htm

It's not expensive, they have it in 64cm, and I like the look of it.

And I know I'm sounding like a broken record. But I just want to clarify one last time. That bike will be strong enough to hold me? I just really want to make sure because its something that worries me.

I'm also looking at this one:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/bristol_x.htm

But even though I know nothing about bikes, my mind keeps telling me I should stay away from carbon forks. Is that the case though?

I guess I can email them and see what the weight limits are.

Coby, Yes, I earlier pointed out the Windsor Tourist primarily for the 36 spoke wheelset, but also because it is a bike designed to keep running with a heavy load. The Bristol is also fine, but I still suggest the Tourist.

You have to realize, and I'm sure you do, that BD bikes are spec'd to meet a price point and final assembly is your responsibility. If you or a friend is going to complete the assembly at least have a local bike shop retension the wheels. One economy step is to use machine assembled wheels and tension is rarely evenly distributed.

I've suggested this bike before http://www.globebikes.com/us/en/globe/GlobeBike.jsp?pid=11HaulUS1 . Globe is aligned with Specialized, BTW so it can be found at the Specialized shops. It isn't a very sexy bike, but I think when suggesting a bike to someone else, reliability is paramount.

Brad

PS With a sensible diet and cycling you will lose weight. When you do lose the weight you'll likely get another bike (it's almost a rule :) ) and it's nice if the 'weight bike' compliments the newer bike.