Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Got some more questions I wanted to get help with

Talked to a SS shop owner today and really learned a lot. I basically can spend around $500 on a fixed bike or build one with even better components and spend more. I could also get lucky on CL and score a used one.

I also could get an 80s road bike with horizontal dropouts and have it stripped to the chain, add new bars, shorter cranks , flip flop hub and track tires and I am good. Seems like they would about even out there.

He said the trend in fixed is moving more and more towards freestyle and tricking. I just want a light bike that can handle going off curbs in case I need to, and that is about it - what rides like that should I look out for on CL?

Also, what kind of speed increase should I expect coming from commuting on a MTB with a front suspension? I dont get much faster than 20-25 mp on it.

njs

what kind of speed increase should I expect
over 9000

It's not the suspension that is getting you. its the amount of tire you have to push around on the road.

Appreciate the response. I know it is silly to ask the speed difference but I literally have never ridden anything but BMX or MTB so I have no frame of reference.

And why someone would say NJS, I don't know. I guess they found it funny?

it's so much of a difference you'll poop your pants. you can't change the amount of air you displace, and that's worth a lot once you get going upwards of 25. but the tires and weight of the bike are very noticeable and how much easier it is to maintain momentum and build momentum should feel awesome.

there aren't any good bikes to look for, just bad ones to avoid. don't get an se draft.

Awesome! that is really what I am looking for.

I am hunting down an older italian bike like a Bianchi..they seem to be in my range. I found a strada so far. Any cool frames like that I should be aware of feel free to share. I would love to ride an older Italian bike like that, I think it would be a nice way to ease in.

If you are riding older road/track bikes is it pretty safe to say you should basically never get up on curves or attempt hopping off one? That is about the only aggressive riding I would do, and seems somewhat unavoidable on the roads sometimes here.

And why someone would say NJS, I don't know. I guess they found it funny?

I thought it was funny, but not really deserved... I'd go with the 80's conversion, they're cheap and fixed gear frames are inflated past there value a lot of the time just because they're a trendy item to have.

If you don't need one in the next week or two, you could also eye craigslist. We had a Cinelli Mash a couple months ago with ellipses and campy go for $1000, so there is certainly deals to be had!

Don't convert. Just get a track frame. higher BB means less chance of pedal strike pedaling through corners and fork ends will make your life easier in regards to tensioning your chain. Plus, no ugly cable guides.

About your speed, keep in mind that the bike will probably be lighter, but the gearing you run will make a big difference on your top speeds. You will eventually spin out, unless you run a monstrous gear (which I don't recommend).

Don't convert. Just get a track frame. higher BB means less chance of pedal strike pedaling through corners and fork ends will make your life easier in regards to tensioning your chain. Plus, no ugly cable guides.

Not if the frame has long horizontal dropouts. Nothing wrong with a conversion. Cable guides are nice when you run brakes.

Oops, I was assuming he's going fixed just saw he's going SS, so ya, pedal strike doesn't matter and yes, the cable guides will be a good thing. I still prefer fork ends. Just easier.

Sorry, I am going fixed. Good point on the bb, I can easily catch a pedal on a turn if the cranks are too long.

So yes I would prefer to find an older track frame if possible. Unless a converted racer is still up to the task.

If you have your heart set on not buying a new out of the box bike, an older road frame will be cheaper than a track frame and have no major issues. Shorter cranks will eliminate the BB issue(lots of "track bikes" had low BB too) And front facing dropouts are simply more practical than track ends. Its an indisputable fact.

Beware of SS specific shops. They are usually more expensive then their competitors, and arent as well stocked. By vastly limiting their selection they have to have higher mark ups to make a profit. I would hunt for a good shop that can handle a variety of things including single speed and fixed gears.

it's so much of a difference you'll poop your pants. you can't change the amount of air you displace, and that's worth a lot once you get going upwards of 25. but the tires and weight of the bike are very noticeable and how much easier it is to maintain momentum and build momentum should feel awesome.

there aren't any good bikes to look for, just bad ones to avoid. don't get an se draft.

stop trolling /b/ and update your blog. god damnit.

It's a time-honored option. I converted an '89 Trek 660 rather than get a track bike because I wanted a) road geometry; b) brakes; and c) water bottle cage bosses. At the time, if you wanted those things for a FG, you needed to convert an older road bike. However, apparently some manufacturers have seen the light (marketing opportunities) and have come out with more road-ready SSFG frames. The world is your oyster, OP.

It's not the suspension that is getting you. its the amount of tire you have to push around on the road.

that's not necessarily true, a lot of where your power comes from is the force downward on the front fork/wheel against the road that really let's you push off more against the pedals and when you have a suspension or shocks on there all of your force is going to go into the suspension/shocks and not against the road so you'll lose a lot of power. yes the less tire on the road is less friction and will therefore be faster so that is true as well

also, I wouldn't be too terribly picky on the frame if you're building up and on a budget so you can get nicer wheels if you're only looking to spend a certain amount, sure it'll be heavier if it's an old steel frame but it won't be awful. honestly, I'd just be sure to look over the frame before you buy it and maybe bring someone with you who knows a lot so you make sure not to get ripped off on a piece of junk

It's not the suspension that is getting you. its the amount of tire you have to push around on the road.

Front suspension does slow you down on the road. When I rode my SS mountain bike it had fornt suspension. I finally swithced out the fork for a rigid and it was much more efficient than the suspension fork.

Honestly I was pleased with my SE Lager as a starter bike. MSRP is like $600 but you can probably find a close-out model from last year for pretty cheap (I got a 2009 close-out for super cheapies at a LBS a while ago). It has drillings for one water bottle mount, comes with front and rear brakes, flip-flop hub with good medium-ratio (48-17), and will even accept fenders. Also the geometry is super comfortable. Unfortunately the color choices are horrible.. Nothing a little spraypaint and elbow grease can't fix. I'm not saying its the best value for the money, just saying I've had a good experience with it as a commuter/trick/beater bike.

yeah the lager/sst is a great bike for the sale price.

There is something romantic about a used, inexpensive Fixed score that keeps me out of the LBS unless they have a used section.

Why buy used when you can get brand new for about the same price? And you will have peace of mind knowing the history of your vehicle, 100% guaranteed in its pristine original state, never been crashed on, manufacturer warranty, etc. Not knocking used bikes.. Just sayin. Keep a look out for a good deal.

Good point..I am looking for an SE dealer around here as we speak.

Damn..all they had was the SE draft lite and they wanted almost $400 for it. I got on one and it felt so cheap that I instantly got off it. I could never ride a complete bike that feels so unstable. I am sure the Lager is far better..it has to be! lol.

The SS shop you went to earlier, what type of selection do they have?

I kinda disagree about prices from shops that cater to SS/FG vs more general shops. In the area around here it's the more roadie oriented shops that carry virtually nothing as far as FGSS bikes go. The few FG bikes they do have are usually right at MSRP or only slighly below. The one shop I usually go to that caters to FGSS is right by several colleges and the prices are pretty competitive. They sell fuji track/lagers for ~$300 and Fuji obey for $500. All decent bikes are pretty well priced compared to online.

It's the "walmart" of bikeshops but maybe check out Performance. The local one here has a few old Madisons priced low and some closeout Fuji feather's for less than $400. They are good entry-mid range bikes that aren't terribly overpriced vs online.

If you know your size and still can't find anything local I'd probably just buy something off BD

Jason, I will buy off of BD if I can't get one for sure. That makes the most sense. I will go Mercier of course.

The SS shop has linus, subrosa, fuji mainly. good store..they quoted me on a MTB SS conversion and it was under $100.

I am finding some "vintage" fuji frame builds that are fixies now. I am trying to figure out if the sizing is the same as I have read..where basically a 56 is a 54 in Fuji for example. Also, how to tell if it's a track frame. I definitely want the pedal clearance.

anyone who can..please let me know if you can tell what Fuji frame this is (track or road)? It is Single Speed right now, but I am wondering how much it would be to convert to fixed. It has full speed ahead racing wheels, new tires, nitto riser and nitto olympian bars with new black wrap, answer seat post. Would appreciate any feedback on this one, since I am still figuring this stuff out.

I am guessing if it is a freewheel, I'd have to drop at least another $100 to convert to fixed.

http://i52.tinypic.com/2eq4bq9.jpg

That photo makes it really hard to tell, but it looks to me like a road frame with vertical dropouts, so it's a very bad candidate for FG conversion.

Thanks, that is what I am thinking as well. I have a fuji track frame that I am also looking at, so I think I will go in that direction and hopefully get this done today.

another bad CList pick, but this is the Fuji track frame..not sure which one until I see it up close I guess.

http://i56.tinypic.com/dbtgna.jpg

Looks low end cromo with a threaded headset and quill stem.

So Cromo frame, but what are the negatives of the headset and stem? Worth $300 to you or less?

and I am seeing some threads after some hardcore googling about the threaded/quilled. It looks like my options would be limited on upgrading and I would have to buy new stuff for it down the road. I really appreciate that you could see this because I am not sure I'd drop $300 on it now since it will cost me more money than expected to upgrade how I want it.

More like $150.

Well, you can essentially buy the same bike as new for the same amount, and you'd be getting the convenience of a modern threadless headset and stem instead of threaded. Threaded is old design and is now only used on some very cheap bikes or perhaps some ultra expensive vintage replicas. See these 2 bikes

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/messenger_x.htm

The one on the left is the current Moto Messenger with 1-1/8" threadless stem with the convenience of being flipable, easy headset adjustment and bar removal. It is also a very strong and reliable. The one on the right is the old model with 1" threaded headset and quill stem, that lack the advantages of threadless and you can damage the steerer tube if you overtighten the stem cap bolt. Also, if you want to change the stem your choices are relatively limited compared to 1-1/8" threadless.

Wow..really? thanks, I didn't want to lowball the guy with $200, since I am not as educated as you folks on the bikes yet, but that saves me some serious cash. Is it worth it at that price? I feel like a good fuji track frame that is actually my size should be a nice ride, but I know you fellas would know better.

Ok the CL adventures continue. I found an 80s Team Fuji road bike. Still geared. It's a 54cm and I am wondering if road bikes fit biggeer than tracks due to their looser geo? I have heard good things about this frame..anyone convert it before?

Update for those who care..I bought the Fuji..this bike is so sick for the price of 200. It has downstem shifters and horizontal dropouts. Top tube as usual is a little high for me, but i am not stretched too far over the bike, which is more important. I have a long torso, short inseam so I had to make a choice there. the 50s just seem to small, and this 54cm fuji feels like a 52 to me. Lots of upgrades on the bike though..new 700 x23 tires

I will be converting this baby asap since the downstem shifters are not my thing, and it rides so good in it's current gear. Best thing is how easy it handles brick and uneven roads..just feels buttery smooth.

Compared to the Madison I rode and the SE, this is a far better frame.

I went ripping through town on this thing..did a night ride as well..soo good. It has drop bars on it that are perfect right now for me. The brakes are in that bullhorn position. I personally don't like it that much for more than 5 minutes. I love upright, and grabbing the drops when I am really getting speed going. So I am removing the back brake and will have the front brake near the stem.

For the roads here, the lbs is setting me up with 700s and 28 width on a deep v wheel in the back. I will have this thing converted by the weekend. Will be sick. For now i am going to run the 23mm up front and than upgrade that one in a month. I will then also get 165mm cranks, since my current ones are 170. That will pretty much give me a nasty setup for commuting and I think that will about do it. Quad butted steel chromo frame..just awesome so far.

Had a nice first wipeout where I skidded on a slick pothole during a turn and went headfirst into a bush durin the nightride and banged my junk against the seat. Got readjusted and moved on. Pretty sure at that moment I fell in love.