Commuting - Zip Tie Cable Guides vs Traditional Braze on guides

Many bike seem to have "zip-tie" style cable guides for attaching brake and shift cable housing to the frame. Is there an advantage to either one?

I ask because I am getting a frame made and plan to run all my cables in full housing. Would it be better to have the traditional metal tube braze on that the cable housing threads through or the new rectangular guides that require an extra piece of plastic to secure the cable housing?

Zip Tie Style:

http://gearinches.com/images/misc/hydraulic-brake-braze-on.jpg

Zip ties let you run different OD's of housing or hydraulic brake line for discs, but IMHO look tacky.

Zip ties let you run different OD's of housing or hydraulic brake line for discs, but IMHO look tacky.

I agree and the zip-tie guides seem to add unnecessary complexity, but would allow components to be removed without releasing cable tension.
The round cylinder guides that the whole cable housing is fed through are preferable, but I do not want to not have the housing fit.

Is it best to use the largest diameter cable guide to avoid housing clearance issues?

It seems that bikes are using the zip-tie style for all the cables. I saw some in the LBS that had 3 zip-tie style cable guides mounted in a triangle configuration to allow enough space to put the zip-ties on.

Do some people prefer this style or is it a fad?

You need them with hydraulic brakes lines, and make installing full length shifter cable housing easier. This is a real improvement over traditional housing guides. The housing sits slightly off the frame, which makes cleaning easier and keeps the paint from getting worn over time. Definitely get them if you have the option.

It allows you to install full length sealed cabling or hydro hoses. Although, a full rear brake cable will be more compressible so you will need to use a good quality housing. I used both Gore and Jagwire, even run a full cable on a Big Dummy and had no problems. Yeah, the zip ties don't look too good though.

Although, I much prefer a solution where you have braze-ons that are oversized for hoses or full housing but have shims for using regular cable stops if one prefers.

The housing sits slightly off the frame, which makes cleaning easier and keeps the paint from getting worn over time. Definitely get them if you have the option.

Is the only advantage keeping the paint from getting damaged? This will be a titanium frame so that won't be an issue. Would you prefer them for the shifter cable to an internal hub? Since there is a large nut on the end I can see them helping in that case.



Although, I much prefer a solution where you have braze-ons that are over-sized for hoses or full housing but have shims for using regular cable stops if one prefers.

The over-sized braze ons seem more reliable, but what about he large nut on the end of an Alfine shifter cable?

Are all bikes going this direction for all cables except when there are cable stops?

The over-sized braze ons seem more reliable, but what about he large nut on the end of an Alfine shifter cable?

Are all bikes going this direction for all cables except when there are cable stops?

I'm not familiar with Alfine components and I have only worked with a handful of frames in a few years, so I can't really comment on the trend.

I didn't know anyone used those for anything other than bikes equipped for disk brakes. I don't think it's a trend, other than that.

I'm confused by the terminology, are there cable guides for full-length housing (shift or brake) that do not require zipties?

I use very small zip ties and turn the buckles into the recess in the guide to hide. Looks pretty snazzy to me

I'm confused by the terminology, are there cable guides for full-length housing (shift or brake) that do not require zipties?

Some frames have full length/hose guides for the rear brake only and regular braze-ons for shifter cables that require segmented housing and cable stops. In such case they may have clips or extra hardware that is used to attach the hose. Mine is like that, it came with few extra metal parts, that honestly I don't know how to use, but I don't have hydraulic brakes anyway. There were extra shims/ferules that go inside those oversized guides to allow for normal cable stops for a standard brake cable.

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/nashbar-hose-guide.jpg

I personally like them, after having lived with my commuter (so equipped) for a bit over a year now. I don't use zip ties - I use the "proper" "c-clips", which are much cleaner, and the clips can be removed and re-installed easily. I am finding that I switch between drop bars and flat bars several times through the year, and can keep my cables in tact (i.e. I keep them attached to the bars - I have two complete sets), making the swap VERY easy. This would be more of a pain with brazed cable guides.
My 531-tubed road bike has brazed cable guides, which are fine, too. I don't swap stuff out on that bike, so there is no benefit to me in that case.

Here's a link (http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=20346) for those inclined to get rid of the zip ties ;)

205606

Some frames have full length/hose guides for the rear brake only and regular braze-ons for shifter cables that require segmented housing and cable stops. In such case they may have clips or extra hardware that is used to attach the hose. Mine is like that, it came with few extra metal parts, that honestly I don't know how to use, but I don't have hydraulic brakes anyway. There were extra shims/ferules that go inside those oversized guides to allow for normal cable stops for a standard brake cable.

Ah I see


I personally like them, after having lived with my commuter (so equipped) for a bit over a year now. I don't use zip ties - I use the "proper" "c-clips", which are much cleaner, and the clips can be removed and re-installed easily.

Those are pretty nifty too, my wife's breezer has them. When they pop off on the road and she wonders where they went when she gets home, I replace them w/ zipties, though...

When they pop off on the road and she wonders where they went when she gets home, I replace them w/ zipties, though...

I've never had any pop off. Yet. ;)
I do use a zip tie for the chain stay where my cable goes towards the Alfine, to ensure a more robust restraint.

I've never had any problems, though. I think the Jagwire clips (though expensive) work quite well and are very secure in my experience. As always, YMMV.

I personally like them, after having lived with my commuter (so equipped) for a bit over a year now. I don't use zip ties - I use the "proper" "c-clips", which are much cleaner, and the clips can be removed and re-installed easily. I am finding that I switch between drop bars and flat bars several times through the year, and can keep my cables in tact (i.e. I keep them attached to the bars - I have two complete sets), making the swap VERY easy. This would be more of a pain with brazed cable guides.
My 531-tubed road bike has brazed cable guides, which are fine, too. I don't swap stuff out on that bike, so there is no benefit to me in that case.

Here's a link (http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=20346) for those inclined to get rid of the zip ties ;)

205606

These usually come with bike frames too. They work fine on single braze-ons on the stays and the fork but you still need to use zip ties on the top tube where all three cables run next to one another :( And I found that the most annoying thing about building a Big Dummy: you have to hold three cables with one zip tie in place. It just never looks good.

These usually come with bike frames too. They work fine on single braze-ons on the stays and the fork but you still need to use zip ties on the top tube where all three cables run next to one another :( And I found that the most annoying thing about building a Big Dummy: you have to hold three cables with one zip tie in place. It just never looks good.

Yikes.
One would think that they would stagger the brazed-on cradles to allow the use of the clips or individual zip ties, eh?

OTOH , I have had the C clips pop off and disappear,
if you go that way , get the 100 count Bag.




I'm confused by the terminology, are there cable guides for full-length housing
(shift or brake) that do not require zipties?
then the requirement is thread the housing thru then install the cable,
and hook up the stuff on both ends .

Pretty much defeats the purpose in Pre-Bled Hydraulic disc brakes.

I've never had any problems, though. I think the Jagwire clips (though expensive) work quite well and are very secure in my experience. As always, YMMV.

On a commuter bike I'd probably trust the clips, and they do look nicer than cable ties. The only bike I have with this style cabling setup is my CX racer, and I'm not trusting them to anything except cable ties for that situation, no matter what it looks like.

Thank you for the replies.

I have decided to go with the zip-tie style since they will work with any future cables and the internal hub shift cable. I will get an extra set of zip-tie guides on the down-tube to strap in my lighting wiring.

Pretty much defeats the purpose in Pre-Bled Hydraulic disc brakes.

I don't think so. The oversized hose guides are opened and the frame comes with some extra hardware for mounting the hoses that I haven't bothered researching since I use cable actuated brakes. But I'm sure there is a way to install prebled systems without taking the hoses off, I just don't know how.

They also included these (http://www.amazon.com/Nashbar-Disc-Brake-Cable-Adapter/dp/B004UMFQSU), so you can run full housing with regular cable stops.

On a commuter bike I'd probably trust the clips, and they do look nicer than cable ties. The only bike I have with this style cabling setup is my CX racer, and I'm not trusting them to anything except cable ties for that situation, no matter what it looks like.

I totally agree with ya here. I'd definitely go with zip ties for offroad racing.

I totally agree with ya here. I'd definitely go with zip ties for offroad racing.

Me too. Lucky for me my CX frame is black. Looks like hell up close, but it's functional and reliable.