Utility Cycling - Integrated locks/deterrents

Looking at the little safety lock on a pistol got me to thinking about something similar for a utility bike; basically, a latch on the head tube that can engage the fork, steerer or bars to make the bike unrideable. (and hard to push, for that matter)

Set it up so that it can only engage with the bars turned to one side or the other, well beyond what you'd ever do while riding, so that there's no chance of an accidental engagement on the road. (This also makes it more of a PITA to push, and makes anybody trying to casually push it away holding the front wheel in the air look a lot more suspicious.) You would then have a reasonably effective deterrent to ride-off theft that could be engaged and disengaged as quickly as car door locks. Add one of the mountable retracting cable locks to deter carry-offs when there's something available to lock to, and you're pretty well set for those quick step-into-the-store-for-one-item trips.

Sure, it wouldn't be anywhere near as secure as a u-lock and cable arrangement, but it could be a lot faster to lock up and unlock for low-risk areas. (And especially for low-risk beater utility bikes.)

Anybody got any ideas how to actually implement such a setup? Preferably as something that can be easily added to an existing bike rather than a factory-only design.

I quite like this idea. One way to implement it could be to drill a hole that passes right through the head tube and fork steerer. A hardened steel pin could be pushed through, and a padlock locked to the end. It wouldn't quite be as neat as an integrated latch but would be pretty secure and resistant to attack. Combined with a ring lock on the seat stays to secure the rear wheel, the bike would be pretty much immobile.

I quite like this idea. One way to implement it could be to drill a hole that passes right through the head tube and fork steerer. A hardened steel pin could be pushed through, and a padlock locked to the end. It wouldn't quite be as neat as an integrated latch but would be pretty secure and resistant to attack. Combined with a ring lock on the seat stays to secure the rear wheel, the bike would be pretty much immobile.

The main goal, though, is to have something that's always there and as easy to activate as turning off the car and locking the doors.

Another possibility that crossed my mind would be brake levers with key locks built in; at least for rim brakes, it would also prevent wheel theft. Just squeeze the brake all the way down, push a button to hold it there, and make it so that you need a key to release it.

How about a Ring Lock (http://austinontwowheels.org/2008/08/06/review-axa-defender-rear-wheel-lock/)? Been around for years. The Axa Defender is what I use on several of my bikes. FWIW Raleigh had a fork lock years ago on the Raleigh Superbe
(http://www.flickr.com/photos/57733176@N03/5313798975/), not exactly something that could be retrofitted. Which is why I use the ring locks.


Aaron :)

How about a Ring Lock (http://austinontwowheels.org/2008/08/06/review-axa-defender-rear-wheel-lock/)? Been around for years.

That's a definite possibility. I wonder how hard it would be to get two keyed alike and mount one on the front too. Add in a length of cable with looped ends, and that gives several options for the level of security with only one item that's not already attached to the bike.

Fork-crown locks were a feature of upmarket raleigh 3 speeds (http://www.flickr.com/photos/poetas/4525070102/) in the 1960s.

Another pic (http://perthvintagecycles.blogspot.com/2010/12/my-1974-raleigh-tourist-dl-1-roadster.html).

http://www.flickr.com/photos/poetas/4525070102/

That's a definite possibility. I wonder how hard it would be to get two keyed alike and mount one on the front too. Add in a length of cable with looped ends, and that gives several options for the level of security with only one item that's not already attached to the bike.

Haven't been able to get a set keyed alike...yet. I tried.

I use the Axa Defender which comes with the optional plug in chain or cable. I use the chain. If I am really worried about security I have a U lock and cable that can go through the front wheel and around the frame.

The biggest thing I like about the ring lock is that it is always on the bike and the key is in it. I hate to think about how many times I rode off without the key to my U locks or cable locks over the years. And on more than one occasion got somewhere and didn't have a lock.

Aaron :)

I saw a variation of the Ring Lock. It was a sort of padlock suitable to be bolted to a seatstay. When locked, a lever would rotate and engage a fitting bolted to the other chainstay.

I use the Axa Defender which comes with the optional plug in chain or cable.

Even without the chain it costs more than the Huffy I'd mainly like to put it on. If they'd get them down into the cheap U-lock price range, and make them keyed alike so I only need one key for all the bikes (my bike lock key is on the ring with the garage door and home alarm remotes, so no worries about leaving it at home) I'd stock up on them.

IMO, the problem with the captive key is that if you forget to lock it, some wise guy can lock it and take your key, leaving you stuck.

Even without the chain it costs more than the Huffy I'd mainly like to put it on. If they'd get them down into the cheap U-lock price range, and make them keyed alike so I only need one key for all the bikes (my bike lock key is on the ring with the garage door and home alarm remotes, so no worries about leaving it at home) I'd stock up on them.

IMO, the problem with the captive key is that if you forget to lock it, some wise guy can lock it and take your key, leaving you stuck.

Velo-Orange (http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/weatherproofing/ring-lock.html) sells some inexpensive ring locks. Best price I have found for the Axa Defender has been Cantitoe Road (http://www.cantitoeroad.com/locks/axa-defender-rl-frame-lock). I never forget to lock my bike with the captive key, but have forgotten locks and keys plenty of times.

Aaron :)

I have a v brake set up as a parking brake, using a thumb gear lever to work it. the thumb lever is mounted on the NDs chainstay of my xtra-donor-cycle. I have seen one person trying to move the fully loaded bike only to give up when they couldn't move it.

I have an AXA ring lock and the Axa made integrated plug in
[the opposite side from the lock cylinder]

Lock up chain that at 1.4M locks my bike well to fixed objects..
[Mine , is a nice trekking bike]

OP blanched at the cost relative to a Huffy, NB

calculate the PIA of Angrily walking home, after having, even, that BSO stolen,
in the value of your locking system..

Yea the VO one is cheaper , you can get a double loop cable,
and trap 1 loop in the hasp of the ring lock, as it closes.

of course you will pass the cable thru the front wheel, around a fixed object,
and the other loop in the cable 1st..

I have 3 AXA and two similar to the V-O ones, those happen to have been OEM on the bikes when purchased. I consider the $75 or so for the Axa and chain pretty good insurance against having any bike stolen. I also have one of the Kyrptonite NY Fahgedaboudit chains and disc locks for very high risk areas. So far I haven't lost any of my bikes that have been locked with the Axa.

As a side note I wish more bikes came with the braze on mounts for the ring locks, they make life so easy...

Aaron :)

I have 3 AXA and two similar to the V-O ones, those happen to have been OEM on the bikes when purchased. I consider the $75 or so for the Axa and chain pretty good insurance against having any bike stolen. I also have one of the Kyrptonite NY Fahgedaboudit chains and disc locks for very high risk areas. So far I haven't lost any of my bikes that have been locked with the Axa.

As a side note I wish more bikes came with the braze on mounts for the ring locks, they make life so easy...

Aaron :)

Are these braze-ons made specifically for the ring locks, or are you talking cargo-rack braze ons? Id like to have some brazed onto MY frame.

I utilize a tiny titanium combo lock with thin cable. Consider that a joy ride/theft deterrent.
If they really want to steal your bike, any lock is defeatable.

I have considered using handcuffs to lock wheels to the frame. Strong and light,.

Are these braze-ons made specifically for the ring locks, or are you talking cargo-rack braze ons? Id like to have some brazed onto MY frame.

Yes, they are quite common on bikes developed and sold for the European/Japanese market. They look similar to a water bottle rack braze on, but are on the underside of the seat stay in just the right place to mount the ring lock. Torker is one brand that puts them on several of the utility type bikes, I believe that Breezer does too. I have 2 Euro spec Giant bikes from around 1988 that have them also.

Aaron :)

I have a ring lock on an aluminum frame, they used Riv Nuts to be the Braze Ons,
a common practice.. Advantage, for retrofits, no paint burning necessary..

Does anyone know if it's possible to mount the AXA lock on a fork? I would like to mount one on the back of my Big Dummy fork. My bike is electric and the motor will somewhat lock that it's not very ride able, but no one would know that until they try and then ditch it somewhere.
You can't get at the rear wheel very well and it still wouldn't be visible on the back. On the front it would be easy to get to and see. With a cable into it I would be all set.

Interesting thought...

It might fit. They come with a mounting strap that should be long enough to go around a regular sized fork blade. I will have to look at that the next time I have a chance.

Only disadvantage is that if they get the lock loose from the frame the wheel will drop right out, not quite as simple on the rear when the lock is inside the rear triangle.

Aaron:)

That's true, it wouldn't be perfect, but no lock is. If they got it loose they would still have a 80 pound bike with no front wheel and a partially locked back wheel to drag around. If they want it they're going to get it.
I think the main thing is it's visibly locked that way.

That's true, it wouldn't be perfect, but no lock is. If they got it loose they would still have a 80 pound bike with no front wheel and a partially locked back wheel to drag around. If they want it they're going to get it.
I think the main thing is it's visibly locked that way.

I agree that any decent lock is better than no lock.

Aaron :)

Does anyone know if it's possible to mount the AXA lock on a fork? I would like to mount one on the back of my Big Dummy fork. My bike is electric and the motor will somewhat lock that it's not very ride able, but no one would know that until they try and then ditch it somewhere.
You can't get at the rear wheel very well and it still wouldn't be visible on the back. On the front it would be easy to get to and see. With a cable into it I would be all set.

I have thought about this myself.

http://hackaday.com/2007/12/07/open-an-axa-bike-lock-with-a-blank-key-doh/

http://hackaday.com/2007/12/07/open-an-axa-bike-lock-with-a-blank-key-doh/

That IS NOT the AXA Defender, different internals...and I seem to recall Kyrptonites that could be opened with a Bic pen.

Aaron:)

http://hackaday.com/2007/12/07/open-an-axa-bike-lock-with-a-blank-key-doh/
Ouch! bad design.

I plan to fit a Rolling jackass on my dummy, and wondered if it were possible to rig it with a lock? I had been thinking to do something myself, when I got one, but given my budget, and my procrastinating tendencies, that might be a while. So I suggest it here to see if anyone can come up with something? Val, are you listening? Feel free to ship me a sample for testing!

I got an AXA lock and a cable today. It will work on the back of the fork. I have to figure out a way to mount it. I don't think the supplied straps are long enough to mount to the fork. I think the cable I got is long enough to go through the frame and around a rack or post so even if I had to resort to cable ties to hold the lock to the fork it would be pretty secure with the cable.

I mounted the lock on the fork with cable ties. I may do something different in the future. The cable is long enough to go through the frame and wheel and around a post or rack.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h131/MarquetteD/lock1.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h131/MarquetteD/lock2.jpg

I don't know how I feel about the fork mounting. You can just cut that cable and drop the front wheel, and the bike is yours. The reason for back triangle mounting is that even if the lock is dismounted, it cant leave the seatstays.

Off topic, love your pedals. I have the same pedals, and I won't be changing them until they are dust.

I really like the lock on my fork. I added lots of heavy cable ties and I'm going to leave it at that. My previous lock was a heavy combination lock with a cable. It was not convenient and less secure than the AXA with the cable. If I'm making a quick stop I just pull the key, if I'm going to be awhile I'll use the cable.
My bike weights a good 110 pounds. The rear wheel locks electrically with the motor. Yes, someone could cut my cable ties and fight the lock past the fender and drag 90 pounds of bike with the rear wheel sliding to a waiting truck. Then they just need to steal two wheels to use it. If someone wants your (enter item name here) it doesn't matter what it's locked to or locked with.

You allmost always find a so called "ring lock" or a similar lock on a bike bought here in Sweden. They are integrated from the start. Good as a complement for my U-lock!

Thing is on the rear , even if you take the lock off the frame,
being on the inside face of chainstays, Ring is still captive in the rear triangle

Thing is on the rear , even if you take the lock off the frame,
being on the inside face of chainstays, Ring is still captive in the rear triangle

How? Unless it's bigger than the dropout spacing it can still come out there.

If it's mounted in the rear triangle you couldn't just drop the rear wheel out. The lock wouldn't fit through the frame if it's locked to the wheel, at least that's my understanding.

We have 3 different ring lock types in our bikes. The idea is the same as with Sheldon's u-lock method: rear wheel with a ring lock cannot be removed from the rear triangle, unless you cut through something (triangle, rim or lock).

This is the type of lock I use on my bike. It is always attached to the bike and has an alarm built in should anyone try cutting the wire.

http://www.damaco.com.au/items/images/lock_alarm_annotated.jpg

Alarm Lock Site.
http://www.lockalarm.com/

I got mine from ebay, you can pick one up pretty cheap.

I spent a lot of money on my bike and the last thing I want is some bugger nicking it.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6147/5998874526_ccf0ced026_z.jpg

Here you can see the cable looped through my front spokes and around my fence. I also just bought a motion alarm padlock that I put through the front disc brakes n' spokes - (hard to see in this pic).

Regards
Tom

There are pinlocks out there that you would be able to use if it was mounted on the head tube with it's receiver on either the lower fork or stem. Think of one of those sliding pinlocks. That should be a simple mount. I'd weld it on both.

Thin or small frame locks can come through the triangle. Am I the only one who finds it amusing that these things are ziptied on?

Am I the only one who finds it amusing that these things are ziptied on?When I first saw a ziptied lock (this was years before I heard of Sheldon's locking method) I definitely went "wut." All my earlier locks were welded on, so it took some time for me to figure out the lock isn't going anywhere even if the zipties are cut.

--J

I have a U-lock that spends the week on the rack at work unless I know I'll spending time somewhere with high theft potential where I can't see my bike. That way I don't have the problem I used to have of riding my secondary bike to work and realizing that I forgot to grab the lock off of my main ride. The rest of the time I carry an OnGuard looped cable and feed one end into my ring lock after looping the other end around something stationary and through the front tire. It still requires me to carry something, but it provides enough security for me for 90% of my riding.

Metal man may consider a pair of steel P clips , around the fork blades ,
and bolting thru' the mount holes on the lock , get them good and tight,

but since the V brake bosses are there , the wheel wont slide out even if P clamps got loose..

lots better than the plastic Zip-ties.

When I first saw a ziptied lock (this was years before I heard of Sheldon's locking method) I definitely went "wut." All my earlier locks were welded on, so it took some time for me to figure out the lock isn't going anywhere even if the zipties are cut.

--J

I thought the same, I tried a thick handcuff about the size of a pinlock (masterlock street cuff). All a thief has to do is let the air out of the tires and that lets the lock twist enough to get it out of the rear triangle......

But then again it is not a theft prevention item, it's to stop the guy from casually jumping on it and riding away. If he tries he'll break some spokes and then will screw you up just as much if you're far from home.