Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - How do you transition to a road bike?

I hate wind. I know getting a road bike with drops is the way to attack headwinds. The problem is that test riding road bikes feels weird. It's not my core as pilates this winter and long rides have firmed these up. The weirdness comes from moving my hands all the time to do braking and shifting. I also have wide shoulders so my arms aren't parallel up on the hoods but are angled in. Should I just buy an inexpensive road bike to get used to this or is there a better approach?

I hate wind. I know getting a road bike with drops is the way to attack headwinds. The problem is that test riding road bikes feels weird. It's not my core as pilates this winter and long rides have firmed these up. The weirdness comes from moving my hands all the time to do braking and shifting. I also have wide shoulders so my arms aren't parallel up on the hoods but are angled in. Should I just buy an inexpensive road bike to get used to this or is there a better approach?

If you are riding on the hoods or the drops, there is really no reason to move your hands around to brake. You can also install interrupter levers if you want to brake from the tops. If you are using STI shifters, again there is no need to move your hands to shift if you are on the hoods or in the drops.

As far as the width of the handlebars, you just need to get a different width, no biggie.

Test ride as many bikes as you can (like you need an excuse to ride new bikes? :D) and determine what you like and dislike for each. Then choose a bike that is close and swap out components (as well as have the bike fit to you) to get it just right.

Yeah it feels different but it's still basically cycling and you will quickly get used to it. It's important to get the fit right and worth doing a little research and trying a few different ones/sizes and also bars come in different widths too.

The best way is to ride it more. I had to get wider handlebars for my bike as well, it helps with comfort and overall twitchiness. The downside is that it opens you up a bit more to drag.

I do about 99% of my riding on the hoods, from which you have easy access to the brakes, and with brifters, to shifting. Handlebar width rule-of-thumb is they should match your shoulders. I think that's more important than wind resistance for all but dedicated TT'ers.

Oh, I missed your question about the inexpensive road bike.

No, don't buy the inexepensive one first. You should buy the bike you want the first time, in a year you'll buy that bike anyways. So rather than being out the cost of the bike, you're out the cost of the bike + the inexpensive one.

The bikes the salesman said were "right" for me were touring (LHT, Trek 520) I hated the barends and no offense to the LHT lovers but it felt like a tank on a 5 mile test. I did ride a Trek 2.3 that was too big for me. The interrupters and STI sound interesting. I told myself that if I did a metric century on my 7300 I could get a road bike. I did one Saturday but fought headwinds both ways (wind changed direction quickly). Is 5 miles enough to know?

When you guys say "on the hoods" do you mean the grips where the brake levers attach. The LHT had very small and cheap grips.

Try a cross bike with wide bars.

When you guys say "on the hoods" do you mean the grips where the brake levers attach. The LHT had very small and cheap grips.

Yes, on the grip above the break lever. The bar ends on the LHT would explain all your hand movement...I also hate bar ends.

Maybe we could help you out with selection, what type of riding do you want to do with this bike? What are your requirements of it (eyelets, fenders, tire width etc)?

I find the hoods a very natural and comfortable place to rest my hands and like CraigB do the vast majority of my riding on them. The only time I really use the drops is on technical descents and to fight a heavy headwind. In either position brakes and gear shifts are but a fingertip away, no movement of the hand is necessary.

Do buy the best bike for your needs that you can afford since you have been riding awhile. I started last year after riding my old Trek 720 multitour around a bit and decided to buy a road bike. Got a 2011 Trek 2.1 which was a nice combination of quality, durability and comfort. 9 months and about 2,000 miles later I succumbed to a 2011 Cervelo R3 which is lighter and racier. Hopefully it will be the last bike I buy for a while :) I kept the Trek as a back up/winter bike to help me feel better about it ;)

I'd love to try a cross bike. None within 100 miles maybe farther. As to what I think I want. 28mm min tires, relaxed geo,tiagra/105 groupset, rackable( I like to carry cold soda's) basicly a century bike but not a full on touring bike. I like compact/downsloping headtube frames as my legs are shorter than my arms 34" inseam 37" sleevelength. 90% somewhat rough oil and chip country roads.

1855: Is your 2.1 a H2 or a H3?

I'd love to try a cross bike. None within 100 miles maybe farther. As to what I think I want. 28mm min tires, relaxed geo,tiagra/105 groupset, rackable( I like to carry cold soda's) basicly a century bike but not a full on touring bike. I like compact/downsloping headtube frames as my legs are shorter than my arms 34" inseam 37" sleevelength. 90% somewhat rough oil and chip country roads.

Build up a Surly Crosscheck frame to your specs.

Take a look at the Jamis Aurora or the Aurora Elite

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/road/aurora/11_aurora.html

If not, a Crosscheck like Chipcom suggested would be a great fit. Have the dealer who put you on the LHT order you in one, then swap the bar ends for brifters.

I'm with those suggesting a cross bike. My Scattante X330 is as entry level as you can get but I still love it. I could only imagine how nice the better ones are. With that being said, mine can currently be had for $599 at Performance. The frame is extremely comfortable but you may want to get a bike with Tiagra and up. I'm also thinking about getting a triple in the front. I think most people would be surprised at how nice this bike is for the price.

As far a riding position is concerned, as others have said, the hoods are a very natural feeling position. I actually just started cycling less than a year ago and with very short legs for my 6' height I found a drop bar setup more comfortable than an upright position because it allowed me to stretch out. Unfortunately I had to go through 2 hybrids before realizing this. You do want to have the bars the width of your shoulders but until you get used to the road bike position it's probably going to feel like your arms are pointing in compared to the slightly flared location of typical flat bar grips. The best advice that I concur with above is to just ride. Your body will adjust and theres a good chance you won't want to go back.

This is riding on the hoods:

http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp129/cburgess54/Tour%20de%20Cure%202011/DSCN0026.jpg

IMO 5 miles isn't enough to know, Jethro, especially when coming from a more upright bike. You'll feel uncomfortably stretched out and low at first, and it could take some time before that starts to feel normal to you. When I got back on my road bike for the first time, after 3 or 4 years on just the mountain bike, the position seemed so extreme I couldn't believe it was the bike I'd ridden for so long a few years back. But some time on it, and a new stem that got the bars about even with the saddle, helped a lot. I feel much more comfortable on it now, though it's still a smidge too big for me.

Ride as many as you can over several days or weeks, for the longest distances they'll let you. It'll start to feel more normal to you.

Touring bikes? Meh ... they strike me as too big, almost lumbering.

I think the Trek 1. series are good road bikes to get you started (I'm biased, I ride a 1.2) ... but mostly, make sure it's the right size and of course, get it properly fitted.

You'll get used to it ... and you'll love it.

bauteiri: Ths aurora is exactly what I've described. OT your signature reminds me of how I feel when I try to do datestamped joins between oracle and mssql tables.

I agree that you will get used to a road bike very quickly and you will realize how nice it is to ride a bike with drops as opposed to a flat bar especially on long rides. I started in mountain biking and found the drops of a road bike strange at first but now I couldn't imagine doing a metric with a flat bar bike. I also spend most of the time in the hoods but on long rides you will appreciate being able to change to ride in the drops or tops.

I love my Cross Check. Started riding in the upright position, then got comfortable on the hoods, and now I'll move to the drops occasionally... I think it's just a matter of time on the bike. I built mine from the frame up and so I was able to choose handlebars that fit me. Look into new handlebars. I use bar end shifters and love them, I do have brifters on my other bike and they are nice too.

Jethro, thanks for opening this topic...I just got a roadbike today and am doing this transition myself.

5 minutes folks, thats all it took between me getting on the bike for the first time and starting to pedal to my faceplant into a neighbor's yard. I learned that the time to figure out proper hand position during a sharp turn is not halfway through the turn...

I figured out the position you refer to as 'riding on the hoods' shortly after that...ugh

I also have wide shoulders so my arms aren't parallel up on the hoods but are angled in.

That means the handlebars you used were too narrow for you. They're made as wide as 46 cm, while 42 and 44 cm are pretty common, and you probably test rode one of those sizes.

It took me some time to get used to drop bars after so many years riding flat bars. My first drop bar bike had cross brakes, which helped a lot with the transition. You should think about getting a set of them, probably used, and installing them if you get a road bike; then you can ride the tops, which feels more like a MTB, but with your fingers on the brakes. See below.

http://www.socaltrailriders.org/gallery/data/610/medium/san_jose_levers_and_headset.jpg

bauteiri: Ths aurora is exactly what I've described. OT your signature reminds me of how I feel when I try to do datestamped joins between oracle and mssql tables.

Cool! I'm glad that bike fits what you're looking for...minus the sloping top-tube part. Now the real question is if there is a Jamis dealer nearby. *checks Jamis dealer locater*...not really. Looks like the closest one is 101 miles away. It would make a nice trip out to go bike shopping if you are ready to buy.

My signature...I'm sure anyone who has held a job in IT feels that way.

I know it's not a short drive for jethro, but Nebo Ridge, the shop where I'm getting the Cannondale, and that includes extremely thorough fitting services in the price of every bike they sell, is a Jamis dealer. I don't know if they stock that model. There are some they don't keep on hand (like the Ventura Race I was interested in initially).

It would be worth a trip if I could ride the Aurora and a Synapse alloy. Effingham's Cannondale has a 58 cm Carbon 5 coming in. It is the absolute Max I'll spend and I really don't want to ride it first. Plus being a newbie and buying something like that would spoil me:fred:

1855: Is your 2.1 a H2 or a H3?

I have an H3, very relaxed geometry

Effingham's Cannondale has a 58 cm Carbon 5 coming in.

If you get a Carbon 5 I don't want to see it, hear about it, or ride with you on it.

j/k of course. I'd have bought one if I could.

And if you get over to the shop, let me know and I'll meet you there for a ride.

Okay transitioning to a Trek 1000, today I did my 30 mile ride with the roadbike...

I feel like I got it done faster (only slightly faster there was a nasty headwind), but it seemed to take more out of me than the same ride with a MTB. Is this is normal thing?

Craig did you do the Century on the track or another route?

Richard.


This is riding on the hoods:

http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp129/cburgess54/Tour%20de%20Cure%202011/DSCN0026.jpg

IMO 5 miles isn't enough to know, Jethro, especially when coming from a more upright bike. You'll feel uncomfortably stretched out and low at first, and it could take some time before that starts to feel normal to you. When I got back on my road bike for the first time, after 3 or 4 years on just the mountain bike, the position seemed so extreme I couldn't believe it was the bike I'd ridden for so long a few years back. But some time on it, and a new stem that got the bars about even with the saddle, helped a lot. I feel much more comfortable on it now, though it's still a smidge too big for me.

Ride as many as you can over several days or weeks, for the longest distances they'll let you. It'll start to feel more normal to you.

Rode a Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5 this morning. It was fast and smooth but I didn't fall in love with it. The vertical compliance was great but the lateral stiffness was wormy.It also made a irritating creaking noise from the seatpost that the LBS was unable to correct. The rear deraileur was very slow to shift when going to a smaller sprocket. They said I wasn't shifting properly could be. Riding into a 12 mph headwind was much easier down in the drops. You would have gotten a good chuckle watching me climbing hills out of the saddle. I was weaving 2 feet back and forth because of not being used to the hoods.

If speed and efficiency where my priorities it would be a good choice but with it's lack of braze ons and a spoke count of 20, I believe I'm still looking.

Craig did you do the Century on the track or another route?

Richard.

Mine was only a metric, and it was all at the track.

Rode a Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5 this morning. It was fast and smooth but I didn't fall in love with it. The vertical compliance was great but the lateral stiffness was wormy.It also made a irritating creaking noise from the seatpost that the LBS was unable to correct. The rear deraileur was very slow to shift when going to a smaller sprocket. They said I wasn't shifting properly could be. Riding into a 12 mph headwind was much easier down in the drops. You would have gotten a good chuckle watching me climbing hills out of the saddle. I was weaving 2 feet back and forth because of not being used to the hoods.

If speed and efficiency where my priorities it would be a good choice but with it's lack of braze ons and a spoke count of 20, I believe I'm still looking.

Really? I found the one Synapse I rode to be very stiff laterally. At least as stiff as my Tarmac, which I can't flex no matter how hard I try.

And, the 20 spokes shouldn't bother you. Especially at 214 lbs. I've got about 45 pounds on you and I have no problem with 20 spoke wheels. If you want more braze ons, you are out of luck of course.

Really? I found the one Synapse I rode to be very stiff laterally. At least as stiff as my Tarmac, which I can't flex no matter how hard I try.

And, the 20 spokes shouldn't bother you. Especially at 214 lbs. I've got about 45 pounds on you and I have no problem with 20 spoke wheels. If you want more braze ons, you are out of luck of course.

My experience is with Aluminum Hybrids and Mtbs. I probably lack the experience to describe what wormy means to me.

Jethro, I made the jump into a road bike last year and I found riding anywhere but the bars a bit awkward. However i slowly moved down to the drops as I gained confidence, and now I must say one of my favorite parts of cycling is getting into the drops for a sprint, even if it is only from light to light. Hopefully you find a bike you enjoy. Half the battle is finding a bike shop that will really work to make you happy.

bauteiri: Ths aurora is exactly what I've described. OT your signature reminds me of how I feel when I try to do datestamped joins between oracle and mssql tables.

The Aurora is a nice bike. I had a 2008 model. I wish I had not sold it, but at the time, I thought I was finished with road bikes. A few months later, I am back on a very entry-level KHS, but I like it so far.

What I liked about the Aurora is how smooth it rode and comfortably upright it was. The fork has a fair amount of rake which allowed a lot of vertical compliance on the rough roads I ride. They are a bit heavy as the wheelset is built more for durability and the Reynolds 520 steel tubing is not as light as 631 steel like what comes on the Aurora Elite. Obviously, these have room for bigger tires, racks, and fenders. Would I buy another one, probably not because there is other stuff out there that will suit me better.

The other bike I am really liking these days is the Jamis Quest. I would consider this more of a century bike and it does have eyelets for fenders or a rear rack. The geometry looks pretty upright, but without the long wheelbase of a touring rig. I've been told that the Mavic Aksium wheels that come on this are pretty stout, so should be fine for Clydes in the bottom half of the 200 lbs range. If I can find the cash to swing one of these, I think it might be my next bike.

Another model to look at is the Specialized Secteur which is their comfort road model. They have a range of models. The top end is the Comp which has carbon seatstays on the frame, Shimano 105 drivetrain, and a clyde friendlier 32H wheelset. I believe the recommended weight limit on this model is 250 lbs due to the carbon stays, but the model below it does not have carbon stays. I was checking these out recently thinking it would be a nice bike to get as an upgrade. I think they'll fit a 28c tire, but can't say for sure. They come with a fairly fat looking 25c tire.

The bikes the salesman said were "right" for me were touring (LHT, Trek 520) I hated the barends and no offense to the LHT lovers but it felt like a tank on a 5 mile test

In late '09, I went looking to ride an LHT after drooling over them on these forums and the Surly web page for months. I also found I wasn't keen on the bar end shifters and wanted brifters. Now, I could have worked something out with the shop and had a frameset built up to my specs, but I blundered into a deal on an end-of-year clearance on a Bianchi Imola. After riding several aluminum frame bikes, the steel framed Imola felt slinky to me.

It's perhaps unfair to compare the LHT to an Imola, since the Imola is more in the category of "road bike" and not "touring bike." But for my criteria, look, and feel, it was a great deal at the price I got.

There's a cross version of it, the Volpe.

http://www.bianchiusa.com/bikes/gran-fondo/

Food for thought.

I'm transitioning now. Have been on a 2001 Trek Hybrid that I outfitted with flat bars and road tires (47s). Pretty agressive stance but still a hybrid with a triple. rode a metric on it last year, a century this spring, and have almost 1500 miles on it this year.

Picked up a Torker InterUrban this week. 30 miles on it Thursday night and it felt pretty good. A much different ride. Tires are 28s, and I've picked up an adjustable stem as I am going to have to gradually get used to the longer reach and more bent over position. Bike is steel and took in the bumps nicely, although I'd not hit the neighborhood streets with it like I do with the Trek.

We'll see how it goes!

rawhite69: I really like the adjustable stem on my Trek 7300. It allowed me to slowly lower the bars. I now run with it slightly downhill. I have a 45 rear (for the bike) that I use on the trainer. Doesn't work real well with the rear fender though. I'm leaning more towards a steel bike now. Just need to ride more of them.

rawhite69: I really like the adjustable stem on my Trek 7300. It allowed me to slowly lower the bars. I now run with it slightly downhill. I have a 45 rear (for the bike) that I use on the trainer. Doesn't work real well with the rear fender though. I'm leaning more towards a steel bike now. Just need to ride more of them.

I did the same thing on my Trek. Its quill stem made it challenging when I then wanted to go to a threadless set up, but accomplished it. Stem is now horizontal on it, but pretty stubby. Would guess I'll get to that on the Torker, but its geometry is a lot different. the trek is a 57" and Torker is a 54" and both fit me very well.

I was running 37s with fenders but opted for 47s without them. The rear rack on the Trek takes care of the spray and I have a removable fender for the front. Undecided on fenders for the Torker.

I hate wind. I know getting a road bike with drops is the way to attack headwinds. The problem is that test riding road bikes feels weird. It's not my core as pilates this winter and long rides have firmed these up. The weirdness comes from moving my hands all the time to do braking and shifting. I also have wide shoulders so my arms aren't parallel up on the hoods but are angled in. Should I just buy an inexpensive road bike to get used to this or is there a better approach?

A road bike with a good fit for you will be just as comfortable as a straight bar bike when riding the hoods. Over time you will likely get more comfortable and be able to ride the drops more and eventually "flip it" and ride lower. Even if you don't, it's helpful at times to have the option of riding in the drops.