Bicycle Mechanics - Restoring an old chain

I have an old skip tooth chain I'm trying to bring back to life for a mid teen's Columbia project. Most of the links moved fairly easily, some needed a little persuasion. There's a slight amount of surface rust showing. It definitely needs some work, but I believe there's still life left in it.

Not really sure where to start with this. Any advise?

For starters, I would try soaking it in some form of light oil or a penetrating oil for a day.

Chains are consumable parts on a bike, is it really worth trying to restore? can a new on not be sourced?

Would you consider converting to 1/2" pitch? Or are you you trying to keep it period correct?

Soak the heck out of it. Work each link by hand.
Those chains are hard to find.

Cool! Think I`ve only seen two of those in my life! How about some pictures when you`re done! It`ll probably be older than me and maybe in better shape!

LOL, yeah, those chains can get expensive. NOS skip tooth chains are around $100. I paid $30 for one in half decent shape.

I'm definitely keeping it inch pitch. The bike is a pre 1919 Columbia frame with it's original Pope cranks. It'll remain mostly unrestored, however completely ridable.

I have it soaking now. I'll go through it link by link and make sure they're all freed up.

Chains are consumable parts on a bike, is it really worth trying to restore? can a new on not be sourced?

Block chain has been obsolete for decades and can be pretty hard to find these days.

I soak them in a polymer/penetrating oil called Gibbs. It's getting hard to find though. I know you can get PB Blaster in liquid form.

The bike isn't going to see much mileage, so it's worth salvaging the original chain (or at least one of the original vintage).

Soak it a while in a penetrating oil made specifically for freeing rusted steel bolts. Kroil and Liquid Wrench are two brands, but there are others. After soaking, try working the links by hand until they're fairly free. If any are still frozen clamp the link in a vise gently holding the plates edgewise with the pin just above the jaws. Set a punch against the link and tap as need to get it to move. Then use a wrench to get free enough that you can move it by hand.

Once all the links are free (stiff is OK) soak it in solvent to wash out the penetrating oil and lubricate with a heavy chain or gear oil. Mount it and spin the cranks, and the motion will free it the rest of the way.

Here's one on eBay...
http://cgi.ebay.com/DIAMOND-Skip-Tooth-1-pitch-Bicycle-Chain-/250836283973?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6701f245

Ian

That's just strange-looking!

Thanks for all the help. I soaked it for a few days and everything is much better. I still have a few links that need work though. I think I'm going to hit it with a brass wheel to remove some of the rust on the. Outside of the links.

Soon.... It's getting there.

Soak it good in white vinegar. It will remove the rust and crud quite easily without eating away the steel. You can then wash, dry and lubricate.

I've done this before and for the same reason. Kind of a lot of work but if the chain is not badly corroded maybe worth the effort. It helps a lot if you have a bench grinder with a wire wheel and some experience using it.

Coil it up ( if it is too rusted to coil it is toast) and soak it overnight in kerosene or diesel.
Wipe it off.
Holding the chain firmly and taut, draw each side slowly across the wire wheel, then each roller face. Unless it was really crusty it should now look almost new.
Rinse well with carb cleaner.
Coil and slather with 80-90 gear oil (please hold off on the flames), work it around, then wipe off as much oil as you can and give a quick rinse with carb cleaner again. The idea here is to leave oil in the chain but only a lite coat on the chain.
Should be good to go for many miles.

Chain is all cleaned derusted and lubed.

Hope this pic works. Trying this entire post from my phone lol

http://emob20.photobucket.com/albums/b237/topper69/image-1.jpg?t=1308418364

Well that sort of worked.

Looks quite serviceable.

It'll get the job done!

I'm happy, all the links are free and it's a lot better looking than it was when I got it.

Here's a pic of the cog.

This was from my Perry 40 14 coaster brake I'm using. I removed every other tooth to accept the inch pitch chain.
http://emob20.photobucket.com/albums/b237/topper69/image.jpg?t=1308418258

Looks quite serviceable.


There's the word. Much better than having the bike sitting with no chain and having to explain to all that yer "looking for one"

In one of my least proud moments of bike flipping, I had a Univega with a frozen chain. Pulled it off, coiled it up with effort. soaked it for a few days in old motor oil cut with paint thinner. Re-installed and rode the hell out of it. Worked good enough. Buyer was a wienie, so's I don't feel too bad.