Framebuilders - Best way to remove brake cable mounts?

i've removed classic brake mounts before, but for my eightinch frame, the dink brake mounts are for zip ties, and i absolutely hate them. im about to get my bike powdercoated, and this is the perfect opperitunity to take them off. With older brake mounts you can easily take them off with a pair of plieres and some force. these are a little more beefy on the frame. what would be the best way to remove them?
http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/6498/dsc0095w.jpg
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/7239/dsc0097np.jpg

Steel or aluminum frame?

Are they really that objectionable?

its chromoly, so i guess steel, well i don't use them, and find them extremely ugly, im going classy for this makeover, and this is just well... ugly

They are likely brazed on if this is a steel frame, if so I doubt that you can simply pry them off. I would start with a grinder and carefully finish them off with a file.

Hell, I'm surprised you've been able to pry any braze-ons off a frame without damaging the underlying tubing.

GrayJay is right, at any rate. A very carefully wielded angle grinder for the first part, and hand files for the rest. And if you really want to ensure that you won't screw anything up, do the whole thing with hand files. A slip of the angle grinder can get most of the way through a lightweight bicycle tube before even notice it.

Got a torch? When I had to scrap stuff at my old job, removing the brazed-on bits was part of separating alloy from pure copper, so I'd just heat up the braze-on and give it a tap with a screwdriver or even better I've since learned is simply brushing it off. You have to keep the torch heat pointed at the braze on and away from the frame tubing (this should be obvious and if it wasn't I'd recommend not using torches)

In fact, if you have the braze-on pointed down you can usually just heat it up and it'll fall off... but the brush helps scrape off the alloy a bit. You can clean up the hot alloy with a dental pick or an old spoke too. The nice thing about this method is that you can be done in a couple of minutes assuming you have a workshop set up with a torch and bike stand.

I've been tempted to use heat, but I always to with the safer route and use a die grinder, files, and sandpaper. Of course, you can do a lot of damage with a die grinder too.

Heat it up. Don't heat up the tube. It's just putting it on in reverse.

Heat. Tie wire to a pair of vice grips for gravity assist. Aim at the braze on, the filler silver or brass will lose its strength before it goes fully liquid, which I like to keep the heat down. Concrete floor, proper footwear, deft feet.

Heat. Tie wire to a pair of vice grips for gravity assist. Aim at the braze on, the filler silver or brass will lose its strength before it goes fully liquid, which I like to keep the heat down. Concrete floor, proper footwear, deft feet.
This^^

An inexpensive hardware store MAPP-Oxy Bernz-O-Matic torch kit will provide plenty of heat.

Heat. Tie wire to a pair of vice grips for gravity assist. Aim at the braze on, the filler silver or brass will lose its strength before it goes fully liquid, which I like to keep the heat down. Concrete floor, proper footwear, deft feet.

^^^ This again, + the proper footwear & deft feet. Not a job for sandals!