Foo - How much will these repairs to my car cost?

I plan to take my 04 Jetta in to get some work done one it. It hasn't been worked on since June 2009, and is 800 miles away from needing an oil change. This is what I plan to do at the Volkswagon dealership. Oh and also, the car has not been inspected since 2009, since I have Texas plates in Virginia, where my car has been since.

Alignment (veers slight right)
Oil Change
4 new brake pads (getting squeaky, and I have to push far down for the car to slow down)
Get my check engine line looked at (Code read: "System Cooling Engine Performance" @ autozone)
[Maybe check @ a/c cooling levels?]
[Any other recommendations?]

In the fall I will probably be driving 70 miles a week on Fridays to shadow a doctor, so the car's gotta be in good shape. Hopefully with an 800$-1000$ budget will cover everything.

more then you think

tank u for that helpful n grammatically corr3ct respawnse¿

tank u for that helpful n grammatically corr3ct respawnse¿

use bees welcomes.

1200 buckaroos?

Two things...

Independent VW Shop > Dealer
Mark IV's are among the worst VWs ever.

Your check engine light is a big unknown. Heck, even with brake pads you could end up needing extra work.
We may as well ask a psychic.

If you were still in D/FW I'd direct you to the shop we use for our 01 Beetle.

I agree with StupidlyBrave - find an independent shop. The one I use in Dallas does faster work than the dealer at half the cost.

I apologize if I have said anything useful. I'll just try to stick to nonsense next time :thumb:

If it's any help, the check engine light - if your car is actually running ok - could just be a bad sensor OR an indication that your gas cap was not closed properly & it might take a few hundred miles to re-set itself... anyway, if you can find a Vo-Tech center near you that's open this time of year you can probably get the oil change, the alighment, the brakes & the rest of your car's liquids checked for the cost of materials plus a small shop fee.

I use a Vo-Tech center for regular maintenance stuff - in WV the shop fee is $15/hr, and the parts & supplies (oil, coolant, filters, etc.) are discounted for the school, so I probably pay about 20% less than buying them myself. Dealerships generally charge at least $45/hour - probably more in VA. It would prbably be a good idea to check your engine's coolant, brake fluid, etc. yourself periodically - read your owner's manual for when you should perform other preventative maintenance - your car will last longer.

Alignment (veers slight right) $100 plus 4 new tires $600
Oil Change $80
4 new brake pads (getting squeaky, and I have to push far down for the car to slow down) $150 plus 4 new rotors $400
Get my check engine line looked at (Code read: "System Cooling Engine Performance" @ autozone) $50 plus new coolant $150
[Maybe check @ a/c cooling levels?] $80
[Any other recommendations?] trade it in

Can you bike 70 miles on Fridays? ;)

Sad when a proud company moved prodution to Mexico years back.

If it's any help, the check engine light - if your car is actually running ok - could just be a bad sensor OR an indication that your gas cap was not closed properly & it might take a few hundred miles to re-set itself... anyway, if you can find a Vo-Tech center near you that's open this time of year you can probably get the oil change, the alighment, the brakes & the rest of your car's liquids checked for the cost of materials plus a small shop fee.

I use a Vo-Tech center for regular maintenance stuff - in WV the shop fee is $15/hr, and the parts & supplies (oil, coolant, filters, etc.) are discounted for the school, so I probably pay about 20% less than buying them myself. Dealerships generally charge at least $45/hour - probably more in VA. It would prbably be a good idea to check your engine's coolant, brake fluid, etc. yourself periodically - read your owner's manual for when you should perform other preventative maintenance - your car will last longer.

This guys car will come back with a huge pickle muffle,sub woofers where the back seat was and blue neon lights under the frame.

Can you bike 70 miles on Fridays? ;)

Maybe a made in Mexico Ford Fusion would get him to the clinic?

$1000 will just get you in the door.

Sad when a proud company moved prodution to Mexico years back.

Like 60 years back.

Does the A/C work? If yes, don't wory about it. A/C check is a rip-off.

$150 per axle ( front or rear) for brakes is pretty normal and includes machining the rotors. Good quality pads run around $50, $20 for machining, dealer labor can be around $65/hr and don't forget tax. Even with badly worn pads the pedal shouldn't go any nearer to the floor - the level in the master cylinder will go down as the caliper piston extends because of the pads getting thinner. If the pedal is spongy or depresses too far you may have a worn master cylinder or have air in the lines.


Check your tire pressure - maybe you don't need an alignment.

If the engine isn't not overheating don't worry about the code - check your coolant level and have that code reset.

What you've described is fairly basic maintenance, and you don't need to go to a dealer unless you like getting fiscally pounded. Six years ago in Connecticut my parents were stranded in their '99 Jetta (go figure) and the dealer had an hourly rate of $89. Oil changes can be done almost anywhere, and any shop with a hint of legitimacy can replace your brakes for you. Replacing brake rotors and pads is a really simple job unless you have captive rotors, which I don't believe yours does. My mechanic is in some NAPA auto network where his work and parts come with a 10,000 mile warranty.

Check engine lights on Jetta's are ornamental -- they're meant to stay on. The rest of the stuff is also something that any reputable independent shop should be able to fix with relative ease. Just look that they hire ASE certified mechanics, and inquire about any warranty they have.

This guys car will come back with a huge pickle muffle,sub woofers where the back seat was and blue neon lights under the frame.

:lol::roflmao2::lol::crash::D

Alignment (veers slight right)- $150.00
Oil Change - $40,00
4 new brake pads (getting squeaky, and I have to push far down for the car to slow down) pads plus rotors need to be turned at a minimum. $400.00-$800.00
Get my check engine line looked at (Code read: "System Cooling Engine Performance" @ autozone)Cooling System Performance. Possible causes include (but are not limited to) a bad coolant temperature sensor (CTS), stuck thermostat, bad waterpump, bad electrical connector somewhere between the CTS & the ECU (car's "brain"), or a failed cooling fan. Most likely the problem is the coolant temperature sensor, 75-700.00
[Maybe check @ a/c cooling levels?]skip this you will not have $$ left
[Any other recommendations?]

In the fall I will probably be driving 70 miles a week on Fridays to shadow a doctor, so the car's gotta be in good shape. Hopefully with an 800$-1000$ budget will cover everything.
My guess.

This guys car will come back with a huge pickle muffle,sub woofers where the back seat was and blue neon lights under the frame.
My boss at the time and I were eating lunch at Schlotzky's when I heard booming bass. Looked up to see a lowered and tinted VW Jetta with lots of stickers and stuff in what I think was Japanese. I think the theme of the car was "Countries whose asses were kicked in WWII."

I plan to take my 04 Jetta in to get some work done one it. It hasn't been worked on since June 2009, and is 800 miles away from needing an oil change. This is what I plan to do at the Volkswagon dealership. Oh and also, the car has not been inspected since 2009, since I have Texas plates in Virginia, where my car has been since.

Alignment (veers slight right)
Oil Change
4 new brake pads (getting squeaky, and I have to push far down for the car to slow down)
Get my check engine line looked at (Code read: "System Cooling Engine Performance" @ autozone)
[Maybe check @ a/c cooling levels?]
[Any other recommendations?]

In the fall I will probably be driving 70 miles a week on Fridays to shadow a doctor, so the car's gotta be in good shape. Hopefully with an 800$-1000$ budget will cover everything.

Can you do anything yourself?
Rotor and pad change is easy on the VW's. About 200 bucks using after market parts. If the rears are drums, you won't need to touch them.

Alignment about 150. Have a pro do it. If tires are required, go to a used tire dealer. 100 bucks for all 4 balanced and installed.

I see ads all the time for 19 dollar oil changes at Meineke. My daughter uses them and it actually cost 19 bucks.

The check engine is a little more problematic. I would drain the fluid, use a flush kit, fill the coolant with new and have the light reset. If it comes back on but runs well, ignore it for now (you are probably already doing that) :) If it stays out, bonus.

Oh, if you take it to a shop, don't go to a dealer, go to a small reputable shop and tell him you are on a really tight budget. There are shops around that use 2nd hand parts from wreckers to keep repair costs down.

C
I see ads all the time for 19 dollar oil changes at Meineke. My daughter uses them and it actually cost 19 bucks.


I wouldn't do that to any car I wanted to keep. http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm. Unless I knew for certain that the oil they're adding meets the manufacturer's specs. IMHO, the Meineke route is sure death for a 1.8T, for example.

I have a pair of 12v vr6's and they never see anything but 5w-40 full synthetic. If I had a 1.8T, or any BMW/Audi engine it would never see anything but 0w-40 Mobile One (European spec) (http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-40.aspx). The local Honda dealer got his ass chewed out by yours truly when they put a synthetic blend in my wife's 2008 Accord - and Honda engines are reputed to be very tolerant of the garbage people put int them.

Then again, it would seem that the OP hasn't had an oil change in two years. That's worse than putting garbage oil in...

I wouldn't do that to any car I wanted to keep. http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm. Unless I knew for certain that the oil they're adding meets the manufacturer's specs. IMHO, the Meineke route is sure death for a 1.8T, for example.

I have a pair of 12v vr6's and they never see anything but 5w-40 full synthetic. If I had a 1.8T, or any BMW/Audi engine it would never see anything but 0w-40 Mobile One (European spec) (http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-40.aspx). The local Honda dealer got his ass chewed out by yours truly when they put a synthetic blend in my wife's 2008 Accord - and Honda engines are reputed to be very tolerant of the garbage people put int them.

Then again, it would seem that the OP hasn't had an oil change in two years. That's worse than putting garbage oil in...
To some degree, I agree but you are imposing your maintenance standards on the OP. His/her standards sound quite different, like those of a starving student.

I couls easily have the work required run to the 4000 dollar mark but that wasn't the point. :)

To some degree, I agree but you are imposing your maintenance standards on the OP. His/her standards sound quite different, like those of a starving student.

I couls easily have the work required run to the 4000 dollar mark but that wasn't the point. :)

So were you. :P

I would argue that it's cheaper to properly maintain it than not.

Like 60 years back.

The bug.These were always produced in Mexico till recently in the old style.

My boss at the time and I were eating lunch at Schlotzky's when I heard booming bass. Looked up to see a lowered and tinted VW Jetta with lots of stickers and stuff in what I think was Japanese. I think the theme of the car was "Countries whose asses were kicked in WWII."

Must be his twin brother booming up my street every midnight after his shift of greasing pans at PizzaSlut.

1) I didn't read the entire thread.
2) I was at a Honda dealer yesterday for a recall check. Another guy there was quoted just shy of $400 for rear pads/rotors/bleeding the lines.
3) Before you have an alignment done, try rotating your tires, that often fixes pulls to the side as well as issues over bumps (has both times for me).
4) Your might as well do the pads/rotors (if needed) while they are at it, but bleeding the lines is the part that will firm up your brake pedal.
5) Independent VW shops will be way cheaper.

Thank you all for your responses. I think I will go to the dealership for solving the P2181 code (dealership code), but will go to this "Bug Shop" here in Blacksburg, has great reviews, for an oil change, maybe tire rotations and brake inspection?

Oh, should I buy my own oil to give them to replace? Any recommendations?

Thank you all for your responses. I think I will go to the dealership for solving the P2181 code (dealership code), but will go to this "Bug Shop" here in Blacksburg, has great reviews, for an oil change, maybe tire rotations and brake inspection?

Oh, should I buy my own oil to give them to replace? Any recommendations?

Can you change the oil yourself? That's usually the cheapest way, and you know what you are putting in the engine.

Can you change the oil yourself? That's usually the cheapest way, and you know what you are putting in the engine.

I don't have a car jack or wheel ramp.

I don't have a car jack or wheel ramp.

You wouldn't want to use a car jack for that. Do any of your friends have ramps?

You wouldn't want to use a car jack for that. Do any of your friends have ramps?

The place I go to allows me to bring my own oil and filters, so they only charge $15 for labor. $15 for them to take care of the disposal and dirty job that is changing oil is a bargain to me. The OP could do the same in his area.

Discount tire rotates tires for free if you got them there, and around here they rotate them for free even if you didn't just to get you in the shop. $15 on top of the cost of oil and filters is pretty good, especially since it prevents them from putting an orange FRAM filter in your car. FYI, Autozone and Pep Boys both take old oil for free.

Thank you all for your responses. I think I will go to the dealership for solving the P2181 code (dealership code), but will go to this "Bug Shop" here in Blacksburg, has great reviews, for an oil change, maybe tire rotations and brake inspection?

Oh, should I buy my own oil to give them to replace? Any recommendations?

Frankly, I would skip the dealer altogether. And check with the shop first about the oil/filter, although I wouldn't expect a problem. Just make sure whatever you buy meets the specification of the vehicle (German imports have more stringent requirements).

To get parts less expensively, these guys get a lot of business from me.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/images/gap_sticker.gif

So were you. :P

I would argue that it's cheaper to properly maintain it than not.

Actually, I wasn't. I just offered less costly ideas. My standards are pretty high but I don't get sold on much of the hype around synthetics. Sludge is caused by neglect not the absence of synthetic lubricants. Then again, I don't keep cars beyond the warranty anyways.

Actually, I wasn't. I just offered less costly ideas. My standards are pretty high but I don't get sold on much of the hype around synthetics. Sludge is caused by neglect not the absence of synthetic lubricants. Then again, I don't keep cars beyond the warranty anyways.

Oh, please. You suggested el-cheapo place and criticised me for suggesting that he stick to what the Mfr recommends. Failure to do so causes sludging, per the manufacturer.

I choose to run full synthetics. My VWs don't require VW spec 502.00 or 505.01 like the OP's may (one is for 1.8T/vr6 and the other TDI), but I choose these nonetheless.

My 98 Riviera just passed 260,000 miles. I've been using Pennzoil 10/30 non-synthetic and those "orange " filters the whole time. Stop wasting money. Maybe those German engines are so poorly engineered they need special care.

Now I'm really confused what to do regarding oil. I want the best oil available! haha.

And bleeding the brakes will increase the braking sensitivity? I estimated yesterday I have to push about 3 inches in before the car will begin to slow at all. So if I go to the Bug Shop here in BBurg:

Oil Change (maybe buy my own - how much? - or just let them pick?)
Brake Bleed
Tire rotated
(maybe new brake pads)
(maybe ask them to replace my cooling sensor or thermometer, fans, water pump, etc. in order to fix the p2181 code)?

Now I'm really confused what to do regarding oil. I want the best oil available! haha.

And bleeding the brakes will increase the braking sensitivity. I estimated yesterday I have to push about 3 inches in before the car will begin to slow at all. So if I go to the Bug Shop here in BBurg:

Oil Change (maybe buy my own - how much? - or just let them pick?)
Brake Bleed
Tire rotated
(maybe new brake pads)
(maybe ask them to replace my cooling sensor or thermometer, fans, water pump, etc. in order to fix the p2181 code)?

See.....my first post in this thread was correct.

Now I'm really confused what to do regarding oil. I want the best oil available! haha.

And bleeding the brakes will increase the braking sensitivity? I estimated yesterday I have to push about 3 inches in before the car will begin to slow at all. So if I go to the Bug Shop here in BBurg:

Oil Change (maybe buy my own - how much? - or just let them pick?)
Brake Bleed
Tire rotated
(maybe new brake pads)
(maybe ask them to replace my cooling sensor or thermometer, fans, water pump, etc. in order to fix the p2181 code)?

Why not let the repair shop do the diagnosis? Let them know ahead of time that you're concerned about the cost (I assume you are). In my experience, they (independent shops) are much more likely to work with you in regards to what needs to be done immediately versus what can be put off.

- For brakes, they'll inspect the rotors and pads. Any noise you hear may be glazing of the rotors (resurface), pad wear indicators (replace pad) or lack of lubricant (a paste is usually applied between the piston and the pad as well as where the pad contacts the calipers). If it's the lube, your pads are probably worn to the point where they ought to be replaced. GAP has fronts for about $50 and rears for about $30. Most places recommend resurfacing the rotors when new pads are applied.
- For coolant, they may just add some G12 (http://www.germanautoparts.com/Chemicals/Coolants/Pentosin), there may be a flush needed. Note that they should have a copy of VAG-COM (http://www.ross-tech.com/), which may reveal much more detailed information than the generic ODBC-II scanner.
- For oil capacity and type: Check the owner's manual. What engine do you have?
- For oil filters, most recommend the OEM filters (Mann, Mahle or Hengst).

Just to put it out there, depending on the configuration those "orange" filters aren't always awful. Mind you they anti drainback valves in them don't work so they put the particulate back in to the system, but that isn't the issue. My main problem with them is that they fall apart significantly more often than any of the others. Sure, you'll end up with a free $5 filter as a result, but Fram won't be covering the new engine you need to go with it.

I should add that a soggy pedal can also be a worn master cylinder, or old rubber brake lines as well. Either way, an occasional bleed is a good idea and won't hurt anything.

learn to work on your own car.

also sell it cos vw is garbage. get a honda

learn to work on your own car.

also sell it cos vw is garbage. get a honda

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y251/viperfx10/mike.gif

unless you are a hipster?

unless you are a hipster?

http://i52.tinypic.com/2wqshs6.jpg

oh, i like this game! i type stuff and you post a funny picture

oh, i like this game! i type stuff and you post a funny picture
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y251/viperfx10/bballgif.gif

Oh, please. You suggested el-cheapo place and criticised me for suggesting that he stick to what the Mfr recommends. Failure to do so causes sludging, per the manufacturer.

I choose to run full synthetics. My VWs don't require VW spec 502.00 or 505.01 like the OP's may (one is for 1.8T/vr6 and the other TDI), but I choose these nonetheless.
Did the Mfr recommend he run the car for two years with no maintenance? Failure to change the oil at the suggested intervals or using products not required may cause damage. Changing to above required grade oil after accumulating sludge won't make up those two years of neglect.

I hear what you are saying SB, but the maintenance bar was set pretty low by the OP, thus my suggestions for less costly alternatives.