Commuting - I need Fenders

I'm planning to mount some fenders on my commuter, just so I don't have rain as another excuse to not commute.

I'm using Rock Shox for now, but I also plan to upgrade to a solid fork. The front brake thingy has a threaded hole I *think* I can use to mount the top of the fender, but I'm not sure how to mount the bottom. There aren't any holes or anything I can find to use at the bottom of the fork. P-Clips?
Photo of the front brake thingy with threaded hole ;)
https://picasaweb.google.com/117302434287555364181/20110521?authkey=Gv1sRgCIH_yrn-uOzeCQ#5609199706775900162

Anyone know of a how-to or anything that I can refer to help me with this?

Thanks all. :)

A pair of these will improve the value of any bike: http://amzn.to/krArAG


:D

Yes, you can mount fenders on that bike, but you will need some additional hardware. On the bottom of your fork if you do not have threaded fender eyelets, you will likely have to go with a type of P-clamp or a jury-rig a system with zip ties. It sounds complex, but it's not so bad in practice. That hole at the top of the front brake will hold the top of the fender, so all you need to worry about is the bottom. I mounted fenders on my 'suspension fork' hybrid and it was not as big a deal as it's often made out to be.

A pair of these will improve the value of any bike: http://amzn.to/krArAG


:D

Niiiiiiiiiiice. Maybe I could use the strings to cinch everything to the Rock Shox?

Yes, you can mount fenders on that bike, but you will need some additional hardware. On the bottom of your fork if you do not have threaded fender eyelets, you will likely have to go with a type of P-clamp or a jury-rig a system with zip ties. It sounds complex, but it's not so bad in practice. That hole at the top of the front brake will hold the top of the fender, so all you need to worry about is the bottom. I mounted fenders on my 'suspension fork' hybrid and it was not as big a deal as it's often made out to be.

Excellent, I think that's what I really needed to hear. "It can be done".
Everything else is just me doing the usual "monkey throwing tools until someone else feels bad enough to fix it for me" routine. :lol:

I have a short travel sus fork on a trekking bike I got, It has full fenders on it..
tricky bit is how do You plan to mount the bottom end, the struts ,
need to be secured somewhere. commonly by the hub axle..
you got Disc Brakes ?

P clamp, would be OK, may have to place the left one
higher than the right, do clear the disc Mech.

I have a short travel sus fork on a trekking bike I got, It has full fenders on it..
tricky bit is how do You plan to mount the bottom end, the struts ,
need to be secured somewhere. commonly by the hub axle..
you got Disc Brakes ?

P clamp, would be OK, may have to place the left one
higher than the right, do clear the disc Mech.

V-Brakes actually. Connecting things at the bottom is still the bit that concerns me the most. The way the forks are designed pretty well means I'm going to require a HUGE p-clip. I have the feeling this is going to require a pretty ugly hack job to make it work.

Should be fun :lol:

Connecting things at the bottom is still the bit that concerns me the most. The way the forks are designed pretty well means I'm going to require a HUGE p-clip. I have the feeling this is going to require a pretty ugly hack job to make it work.

Black electrical tape wrapped around three or four times to protect the paint and provide some thickness into which to bury the end of the strtut, then use a black ziptie to hold the strut, and cut off any excess ziptie length. Much more attractive than messing with a metal p-clip. Lighter and cheaper, too.

Good luck.

V-Brakes actually. Connecting things at the bottom is still the bit that concerns me the most. The way the forks are designed pretty well means I'm going to require a HUGE p-clip. I have the feeling this is going to require a pretty ugly hack job to make it work.

http://www.meijer.com/s/mighty-bike-mudguard-set-with-extender/_/R-125801 No bottom attachment at all. It does pop against the wheel on potholes, but I've never had it drag enough to notice. With an aluminum frame, your seat tube is likely to be too big for the little clip on the rear fender, but removing that and running a zip tie through the slots behind it fixes that right up. Drilling a couple of holes and attaching it to the bottom of a rear rack with zipties also eliminates a pop there.

Not the best foot/drivetrain coverage, but they keep the splash out of your face and off your back.
http://kd5nrh.smugmug.com/Art/Bike/DSC03564/1009396520_VXeSP-M.jpg (http://kd5nrh.smugmug.com/Art/Bike/DSC03564/1009396520_VXeSP-X2.jpg)

I guess I would say don't go with any store brand that is over priced. I happened to not be to smart and pay for a rear fender. I was super mad when the thing fell off. But a little duck tape will keep the thing in place. There is also a front fender I'm looking at getting. Rideing in the rain without fenders is not to fun and it also gets hard to see. Anyways hope that helped or you could look under google for a the same bike you have with fenders and do what ever they did. That should work.

Black electrical tape wrapped around three or four times to protect the paint and provide some thickness into which to bury the end of the strtut, then use a black ziptie to hold the strut, and cut off any excess ziptie length. Much more attractive than messing with a metal p-clip. Lighter and cheaper, too.

Good luck.


This is a good solution.
Zip ties are awesome, says the man using 35 of them to hold/attach various things to his bike.

Can I ask on this thread? What do you use for road bikes with caliper brakes, very little clearance? I slopped together a fiberglass one with a gap for the brakes but it wasn't fully satisfactory.

Fender stays are subject too a lot of vibration but not a lot of stress. If it were me I would worry about zip ties moving and needing a lot of tweaking to keep them in place on tapered forks. What I would try would be to get (or fabricate if you are a DIY guy) a couple of brazon threaded holes. Obviously you can't weld or braze these to your aluminum forks but modern adhesives are amazing things. An attractively molded glob of JB Weld (or maybe even hot glue) should be more than adequate to affix threaded holes for fender stays to your forks.

Here's a photo how I did it on my 'beater hybrid'.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v90/IeraseU/My%20Bike/JAS_5583.jpg

It involves a hose clamp, parachute cord, and a zip tie. It's not pretty, but it's been 1.5 years and the fenders have not given me any problems.

Here's a photo how I did it on my 'beater hybrid'.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v90/IeraseU/My%20Bike/JAS_5583.jpg

It involves a hose clamp, parachute cord, and a zip tie. It's not pretty, but it's been 1.5 years and the fenders have not given me any problems.

Bingo! that's what I needed to see. :thumb:
I might not even need to throw any tools around to accomplish this. :lol:

Thanks!

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=planet+bike+fenders&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=1495773327512294081&sa=X&ei=hCQKTtvtJYXniAKUpdGtAQ&ved=0CJgBEPMCMAg

are what I use on my bike, the front anyway. I have the original version of Rock Shox. I bought the ones for mountain bikes, as they come in different sizes. No problems in a bit over a thousand miles except I don't like the looks that much. I have the nicer versions that use eyelets too, and have that one on the rear. I have the rigid front fork for my bike and it does have fender/rack eyelets, so if I ever swap that on I'll use the appropriate front fender.

Make sure they don't take too much toe clearance away. :(

Make sure they don't take too much toe clearance away. :(

I've got about four inches of toe overlap on my bike (which is increased by fenders, of course.), and it's simply not a problem. You don't turn the wheel except at slow speeds, and you can pay enough attention not to hit. Of course, if you ride a fixed gear bike, well, you get what you deserve.