Mountain Biking - Getting back to trail & XC riding after a break, need advice on ful susp vs hardtail

My first post in the MTB forum. I haven't ridden or owned a "proper" mountain bike for over 5 years now. I own bikes built around hardtail MTB frames but they're "road" bikes. Mainly because there are not that many trails close to NYC. However, recently I started getting the itch again. I discovered some new trails. I also have a car now, so I can drive places I couldn't before.

So I want to build a "proper" MTB: minimalistic, light, fat tires, etc. I'm a DIY guy, I build all my bikes so this won't be any different. I already have most of the drivetrain parts, I just need the frame, fork and the wheels. And I'm not into fancy stuff and high end components. I'm more down to earth, I like functional stuff that works with minimum bling and shine. I like aluminum and steel. Carbon and titanium do not interest me. Deore level components suit me well. If it's all black then even better :) The only relatively high end parts will be the tires. I'm looking at the new Schwalbe Hans Dampf tires.

So that's kind of an introduction.

My first question is whether I should get a full suspension frame or just a hardtail. I will be riding on moderate forest trails only, nothing extreme, no downhill riding, no jumping. Can someone please reiterate the main differences, advantages and disadvantages of a full suspension frame and a hardail frame? What can go faster on rough trails? What climbs better? What's more nimble on singletrack? What's more stable on downhills? Which one is more flexible, universal? I'm kind of looking for a Jack of all trades.

I had a full suspension Jamis Dakar Sport and I'm kind of inclined towards a full suspension frame, but that adds some weight. But will it be much beneficial over a hardtail? I have an opportunity to buy a few years old Jamis XC Pro frame for cheap. Otherwise I'll probably pick up a Surly Troll or something similar.

My second question is whether I should bother with hydraulic brakes? One of my bikes is a "trekking" bike built around a hardtail MTB frame with a rigid fork. I use it mainly for loaded road touring but on occasion I take it off road (it has Shwalbe Maratahon tires that have some moderate off-road capability). I run BB7s on it with 203mm rotors and it has tons of stopping power even when loaded. The only thing I wonder about hydraulic brakes is if the hand fatigue is lowered compared to cable actuated brakes. I also have a pair of nice XT Dual Action levers that I like, but they're for mechanical brakes.

Thanks!

If you are going to be riding on long island, a full suspension bike will be overkill. If you aren't into the high zoot gear then I would just stick with a hard tail. I've been riding these trails for years on a single speed hard tail 26er with no trouble, though I have recently gotten a geared 29er hardtail. I think I would get bored on a full suspension out here. You don't really do enough braking out here to need hydraulics, but they are still much nicer than mechanical brakes. Good luck.

The Bethpage/Syosset trails? Maybe. But most likely upstate New York: Fahnestock, Harriman, Sterling Forest, Catskills, etc.

I actually rode the Sterling Forest trail last weekend. I was on a day road trip from the Harriman Park, and I found that trail accidentally. I was on a rigid trekking/touring MTB, set up for road riding with 1.75 Marathon tires and I made it about 90% through that trail. I had to walk a few inclines, the rear tire would loose traction and walk around few large mud puddles, I didn't trust the tires would make it. The ride was a little bumpy and shaky, I had to be very careful around wet roots and rocks, but the bike had trunk bag, racks, all that stuff. I think it would be a more pleasurable ride if I only had fat, knobby tires and lost the racks.

Adam, do you know what kind of wheels you are interested in? 26" or 29er? I built up a Steel SS Rigid 29er last year that I love to bits. (vassago Jabberwocky). Good 'ol steel.

I've read many of your posts in the past and see that you are a knowledgeable and sensible kinda guy so if you wanted to go FS I'm sure the extra maintenance on all the pivots, shocks, etc is something you can handle easily, but all the same there is that factor to consider. Depending on your trail/terrain a FS just might be the best pill but it sounds to me from your description that you really dont need one. I think a 29er with cushy tires will do the job superbly. I'm not a participant of those debates folks have between 26 and 29er wheels but I can say that I love mine and am pleasantly surprised at that it can do and how I can traverse terrain that I would otherwise use a FS bike on...mind you it is not a substitute for a FS is you need one..but again..for "everything" with sense and practicality.

Do you know if you are one that favors gears? 3x9? 1x9? Do you anticipate hills enough to warrant a granny gear? Many mtb barely ever use their big ring unless they are racing or riding on the road..the middle ring gives you 90% of what you need on the trails. a chain keeper like 'pauls chain keeper' to keep the chain safely aligned on the front ring as you march across the rear cassette.

I'm going to suggest a Vassago Bandersnatch frame if you like steel are looking at a 29er and want gears (thus a deuraileur hanger and vertical dropouts) (http://www.vassagocycles.com/bandersnatch/). A pocket friendly and workhorse crank like a FSA V-drive 32t single ring (for a 1x9 if you want it as clean as you can but still want gears). it'll take a 80-100 fork if you need squish.

I think BB7's will be just fine. Those are some seriously under appreciated brakes by those that are total converts to hydros....although hydros are great. You def dont need anything larger than a 160mm at the rear, maybe a 180 (185) at the front? 203 are like for DH and big heavy AM type builds for folks that fly down mountains and can perhaps be overly grabby and touchy on xc/trail bike.

Truthfully with a HT if you go thru very technical terrain (rocks, roots, steep ups and down) you find you more have to ride thru and around obstacles too big or loose to plow over. With a FS if you have enough momentum and speed you can often plow over a lot. The more pedal efficient are still rigid bikes IMO, followed by HT, then bringing up the rear are FS...some pedal energy does transfer to the suspension and is lost. Some bikes are better at managing this than others but none can totally take it away, some FS are better "peddalers" than others and the loss of 'efficiency' is hard to notice expect by the more pro type of guys I suppose that are more seasoned and sensitive to that sort of thing and have history with all sorts of bikes to know what to look and feel for.

Great all rounders that I have some measure of history with and I think are awesome FS bikes are C'dale rz120, Rocky Mountain Altitude, Yeti 575...these are 'trail/light AM ' bikes that dont necessarily have the weight penalty a bigger-burlier FS AM bike would have and pedal very, very well and climb like billy goats as well as descend nicely and very capable in technical terrain..they are spendy tho. There obviously are more bikes in this category that are just as superb but I have not ridden any of them. But again, I dont think you need a FS rig, but only you know for certain..

Thanks Moozh!

It'll be 26" with 3x9 drivetrain, because that's what I'm familiar with and I already have some parts. I never rode a 29er so I can't comment. I know there are heated discussions on many forums regarding this topic :D It'd be also nice to have the option to go faster if needed. The added weight of 3x9 isn't a big deal.

Also, my other bikes are 26" so I like to keep them like that in case I need swap wheels in emergency.

I will know this week if the guy is willing to sell his Jamis XC Pro frame (FS). If not, I will start looking. I may start with a hardtail since FS frames are much more expensive unless you can get one used. But yeah, the extra maintenance doesn't bother me. I was actually looking at Yeti frames, they're really nice but out of my budget. Also, considering my skill level and the trails I'll be riding I really don't need a high end rig. FS would be nice for the reasons you've mentioned but a HT will probably suffice until I decide to hit more technical trails or decide I just don't like a HT. I can always swap the frame later, nothing is carved in stone here.

Yeah, I think I stick with BB7s too. I'm familiar with them and the extra maintenance issues with hydros always turned me off. And this will let me use my favorite XT dual action levers that I already have.

Thanks a lot for a thoughtful reply!

.....the extra maintenance issues with hydros always turned me off.

Which issues are those? Just curious what you know about this. Thanks.

Which issues are those? Just curious what you know about this. Thanks.

Periodic bleeding?

I've only come across the need to bleed lower end shimano hydros that use mineral oil, well, it needs bleeding but I have not done it yet..that bleeding kit is a ripoff and I'm lazy at present. I have a number of other bikes wiith hydros from avid (Juicy 3, Elixr-r), formula (the one), hayes-stroker (trail) and they have never needed any attention whatsoever, they use DOT brake fluid I believe. I must add that I dont tend to ride any bike every day all day to push their limits just an hour or three at a time once or twice a week. So I'm not 'banging' on them to test them in that fashion. For me they have been somewhat set-and-forget. But I have a couple of bikes with BB7s and my hooligan with BB5's...I fail to see where they are deficient....they both work superbly and you simply cannot beat the price point compared to hydros.

Sorry Adam, I dont have a frame recommendation for a 26" steel XC HT that I have spent saddle time on to offer a suggestion with commentary of my own experience with it, BUT I will go ahead and suggest you take a look at the Ragley Piglet (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=55499). I have heard nothing but glowing reports about their 2010 AM HT frames (the steel Blue Pig and aluminum MMMBop).

There tends to be ongoing conversations about the Ragley and On-One bikes over at 'forums.mtbr.com'. They are very price competitive frames, very, very well regarded and the designer even pops in with a degree of frequency to join the conversation. I picked up an aluminum MMMBop frame last year but am yet to build the bike up. I'm afraid that I have a tendancy to severely overspend when building a bike..gotta have top shelf this and that when I am perhaps only a mediocre talent...but some day soon I'll get her built. It's a frame that is a AM HT and not a XC HT like the 'piglet' which is what you will be looking for.

Chainreactioncycles.com (crc.com) are located in the UK but I have ordered from them numerous times and the longest anything has taken to get to my door is 1 week...a strict 7-days at the worst. For the US this is the only source I know of that you can get this frame from, I dont believe there is a US distributor.

For how great these frames are, the reputation of the builder (Grant from 'shedfire'. Designer for bikes from OnOne and NukeProof..and Ragley. (http://www.shedfire.com/)) I think it is well worth checking it out and seeing if it suits what you are looking to do.

There is a geometry chart there on CRC.com also...pay attention to the HTT (horiz top tube) length and these bikes tend to have shorter seat tubes but longer top tubes by design. They are meant to be fitted with short stems and wide bars thus if you tend to ride an 18" in some other frame, you may find that the geometry of a 16" or 17" is ideal for you with this frame. I tend to ride a 20" framed XC bike but my mmmbop is a size 18" for example. On another bike I would think that is too short but with a 50mm stem and 700mm wide bars it feels perfect! Agile and ready for action! Also many folks over at forums.mtbr.com simply create a post to ask what size is ideal for them, just state your height and inseam, more than likely the designer himself will offer advise. Also look at the builds by folks that have the frame over at www.shedfire.com (http://www.shedfire.com) to get you eyes on some of them.

Last night I bought a Rocky Mountain Flare hardtail frame on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180689668204&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT) from Rocky Mountain Cyclery, they sell some open boxes, demos, etc, for $101 shipped. I'll start with that. I'm not too crazy about the color, but I don't care much either.

I know it's a cheap frame but I'm really trying to do this on a budget. I've lost some money on my failed Big Dummy experiment (built, didn't like, sold...) and I'm saving money so we can move out of NY next year so I'm trying to use as many existing parts and not to spend a lot on anything else. I'm not very demanding, I ride cheap $100 Nashbar frames and I like them :) For that reason I will stick to BB7s for now too, they're cheaper and I already have the right levers for them too. But if I ever get to build a better FS MTB I will try Avid hydraulic brakes for sure.

Although I might be tempted to get this frame (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330582336170&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) later today if the bids don't go too high, it's a bit smallish though, 20" is my ideal size. And not crazy about the color too (I'm not crazy about any colors but black and blue basically).

im going through the same question myself...being in the same area i have been riding the same trails probably as you....Cunningham, Stillwell, Glacier Ridge, and i just started this year and im contemplating my next bike...in the begining i was all gung ho for a full suspension, but talking to a bunch of people who know ALOT more than me im thinking that for ME what im gonna be doing id rather spend my money on a great 29er hardtail as opposed to spending the same amount on a so so FS that isnt really warranted for me at this point.

IMO 26" is much more nimble, less clumsy and more fun. Full suspension is more fun as well. I've been riding hardtails for quite a while now out of financial necessity, but IMO...there's nothing like a nice 26" dually.

That said...it all depends on your riding style and terrain. If I were riding smooth / groomed trails...I'd do a rigid 26" with snappy acceleration. It all depends on what works for you personally. Best to test a few and see what you like. For the average size, standard "XC'er" type, a rigid or hardtail is probably just fine. For a bigger dude doing the same type of riding...29'er is probably great. For somebody who likes to jump off trail obstacles, stairs, walls, and just generally have alot of fun w/o much regard to lap times and exercise regimen...the 29'er will most likely dissapoint, but I've been doing that style of riding on my 26" AM hardtail with big smiles for quite a while.

I didn't even consider a 29er - they just look weird. I never rode one though so I have no idea if they're any better than 26. I really don't care for 29ers right now. I picked up a 2009 Fuji Reveal 1.0 full suspension frame on eBay for $350. If I didn't find that frame I would have gone with a hard tail. I should have it all built up in two weeks.

Keep us posted!!

Keep us posted!!

Oh, absolutely :) Pictures will be coming!

So this is the frame I got on eBay: Fuji Reveal 1.0, size 19. The fork is new, steerer tube uncut yet, its Rock Shox Tora TK Coil PopLoc. It matches the frame's color scheme perfectly with black, red and gray letters and graphics. Everything else will be black with red accents, logos, etc, except for Avid Elixir 5 brakes: both, the calipers and the levers will be white too. I hope to have it ready by this weekend.

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-1.0-Build/First-shot-with-fork.jpg

Parts, 3x9 drivetrain, most parts are older models 2009-2010 I got on sale to keep the costs down:

Rock Shox Tora TK Coil PopLoc fork 2011
Mavic 321 32h rims
Shimano XT hubs
Halo hex skewers instead of QR skewers
2mm spokes, brass nipples
(Wheels ordered from Bicycle Wheel Warehouse)
Schwalbe Nobby Nic tires (Snake Skin)
Shimano XTR RD (2009 model)
Shimano XT FD (2010)
Shimano XT chain
Avid Elixir 5 brakes (I was planning just BB7s but I got the Elixirs for like $30 more each, my first hydraulic brakes ever)
Shimano Deore shifters (2006 maybe, will probably upgrade to XT later, I had these laying around for a while, unused)
Jagwire Ripcord shifter cables + sealing kit
Race Face Evolve XC Triple Crankset 2009 I think
Shimano HG80 Cassette
Race Face Ride-XC Riser Bar
Race Face Ride-XC Seatpost
Race Face Deus XT stem
Ritchey headset (unknown model, came with the frame, a bit old, will upgrade later)
Ergon GP1 Grips
WTB Laser V SLT saddle
Shimano PD-M520 Pedals

It's not optimized for weight, I know, but I was looking for good deals on the parts and value first, without going with parts that would be too cheap/weak, and I was trying to make it look nice by matching up the color scheme of white, black and red accents. No problem if it's heavier than it could be. For instance going with double or triple butted spokes would cut down the weight of the wheels but would add almost 30% to the cost so I went with straight 2mm spokes.

It'll be mainly ridden on trails, no freeriding and no jumping other than hopping over obstacles, so the fork should be adequate, I hope.

The choice of so many Race Face parts is incidental. They just fell within my price range and color requirements.

It's kind of weird since all my bikes are/were usually black with few blue and green ones along the way. I never owned a white bike. But the frame was the right size, the right price and it's supposed to be a pretty decent frame too with licensed Specialized suspension, so I'm going to end up with a white bike and more bling that I'm used to, I'll feel very conspicuous riding this thing. It's a lot more of a bike than I was originally planning. There goes the "minimalistic"...

Holy Crap! I'm following this thread, and looking forward to pics of the build-up. Don't worry about the white, I'm kinda getting sick of seeing all black bikes, even though I own one.

Thanks. I sometimes get tired of the black too. Last time that happened I had a "baby blue" bike; kind of lite, sky blue color. Most of my riding is commuting and day rides around NYC so the choice of black is kind of a security thing: non-flashy, inconspicuous bikes, no decals, etc.

I get the metropolitan area security concerns thing. But, no worries, you’re not going to commute on this bad boy, I don’t think. I’m interested because I think it’s a good looking frame, and I like building-up bikes. Although, at my age and riding style, I can’t see justifying the expense of a FS bike for myself, and think most FS bikes looks like Rube Goldberg contraptions; I still think some of them look cool…like this one.

Bike should look sweet when it's fully built.

As for color, my theory is a mountain bike should be dirt colored. What's underneath the dirt doesn't matter much =)

I get the metropolitan area security concerns thing. But, no worries, you’re not going to commute on this bad boy, I don’t think. I’m interested because I think it’s a good looking frame, and I like building-up bikes. Although, at my age and riding style, I can’t see justifying the expense of a FS bike for myself, and think most FS bikes looks like Rube Goldberg contraptions; I still think some of them look cool…like this one.

The frame was $350, no shipping, I picked it up. Everything else would be the same anyway. A decent hardtail frame would be $100-150 at least. That is not a hell of price difference. If this was $1,000 versus $150 I'd go with a hardtail for sure. And no, of course, I would never commute on this bike or even ride around the city. I have bikes for that. I like the way the frame looks. I agree that some of the higher end designs often look strange.


Bike should look sweet when it's fully built.

As for color, my theory is a mountain bike should be dirt colored. What's underneath the dirt doesn't matter much =)

It will probably be dirt colored in no time :D Or so I hope!

Weight is over-rated.

By the way, that is one nice racing frame, well at least it "looks" like that.

Better have some riding to back it up...

OK, here is the bike, done, right before the first ride. The only change was a different handlebar. It weighs 30lbs as shown.

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-New/small/001.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-New/small/002.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-New/small/003.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-New/small/004.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-New/small/005.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-New/small/006.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-New/small/007.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-New/small/008.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-New/small/009.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-New/small/010.jpg

And these are from the first ride. The bike didn't fall apart, no problems. I survived too, although one trail was harder than I expected and I had several "Oh, s**t!" moments (steep slopes with rock rubble), and I was very tired in the end. The power curve is different than road riding due to rapidly varying inclines and surface and due to all the obstacles. I also think that I could do with just a single chainring crankset.

But the bike handles terrain so much better than the Jamis Dakar I had last time.

Now I just need to loose 15+lbs and get stronger!

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-First-Ride/small/01.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-First-Ride/small/02.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-First-Ride/small/03.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-First-Ride/small/04.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-First-Ride/small/05.jpg

http://a-world.net/files/cycling/2011/07/Fuji-Reveal-First-Ride/small/09.jpg

Weight is over-rated.

By the way, that is one nice racing frame, well at least it "looks" like that.

Better have some riding to back it up...

Oh, I won't do any racing or anything extreme. I'm 44yo and this is strictly for fun and exercise.

Dang, that's perty! Where you are riding looks beautiful too. I agree about the difference between riding mountain and road. It's almost the difference between anaerobic vs. aerobic training. I figure I burn as many calories riding 10 miles on MTB as 15-20 riding road.

Great build.:thumb:

Sweet! So you went All Mountain FS! For technical ups, down, rocks-n-roots it's a decent choice tho. Trail riding sure can wear you out but is serious fun, looks like a very well thought out build as well. Congrats!

Wondering, what is the travel on that Tora? 120mm?

Again, good looking build!!

Thanks!

I believe the frame is AM but the fork is 100mm XC, but I will be mainly raiding on trails so the fork should be adequate. One thing I'm wondering though is that the complete bike came with 140mm fork. Would 140mm fork be actually 40mm longer than a 100mm one? If so, then the geometry may be off :(

I'm also worried that I'm a bit heavy, I just gained close to 20lbs due to illness last month, I'm 212lbs :( Even at 195lbs I was still overweight. I had to turn the preload knob on the fork to the max to set the sag close to the recommended 25%. I also need to stop by a bike shop and have my rear shock pumped up more, it sags too much and it doesn't have a preload control, the guy I bought it from was like 175lbs. I think it needs to be pumped up with higher air pressure. So... I think my bottom bracket is too low as the result of shorter fork and rear shock sag.

Anyways, the bike handles roots and rocks much better than my previous bike. My Jamis Dakar was very bouncy even running with 30psi tires and neither shock had rebound adjustement. This one, I don't know the proper term, cushions the obstacles without bouncing. I think these shocks have better dampening and less rebound, or whatever that's called.

And these are my first hydraulic brakes and I like the effortless braking a lot. The hoses are a bit too long but I can't deal with that right now, it's just aesthetics issue anyway.

The tires are great too: sand, rubble, deep mud, no problem and I really went on a trail that was too much for my shape and skills and I had little problems maintaining traction.

I need to find a good bike shop that knows about MTBs and have them have a look at the above issues.

Overall I'm happy with the build and I had a blast during the first ride but I'm so out of shape and lacking technique that it'll be a long road. And I don't have as much time as I would like, and I want to ride my road/trekking bike too. So yeah, it'll be a long road :)

Thanks all for the replies and the advice!

Dang, that's perty! Where you are riding looks beautiful too. I agree about the difference between riding mountain and road. It's almost the difference between anaerobic vs. aerobic training. I figure I burn as many calories riding 10 miles on MTB as 15-20 riding road.

Great build.:thumb:

I figure I did 15-16 miles maybe (didn't bother with computers and GPS) and I was A LOT more tired than doing a 50 mile ride on my trekking bike. My arms and legs were very tired from all the downhills too when I had to hang my butt all the way back, that is freaking hard. When you ride on the road there is plenty of time to coast and catch a breath and you're sitting down too most of the time. On the trail you don't really get to rest on the downhills :) I didn't have that much time to relax on those trails. It is heck of fun but dang hard.

Oh, for those who might know the area, I'm in NY State, I was riding at the Sterling Forest State Park and the Harriman State Park (Anthony Wayne's Recreational Area). It was the Harriman Park trail kicked my butt, I totally didn't expect anything more that dirt roads... I carried the bike a few times :o The parts of the Sterling Forest trail closer to the lake is easy, then there is more hilly part with some very steep hills covered with rock rubble. I hit one such a hill and decided to turn back and take break. It was definitely beyond my skills to descend.

lol..yep the trails sure will "whomp" your energy. No dodging cars tho only horse crap.

I was thinking you have an XC fork so your geometry might be somewhat steeper than spec. No biggie as it makes you steering sharper and if you are not bombing downhills it may bot be too bad. AM tends to be slacker and with the extra travel in the fork the axle-to-crown length is also longer. Truth is XC bikes tend to climb better because their geometry tends to be steeper (as well as being lighter), AM seem geared to allow you to winch your way up a steep hill but not necessarily at a fast clip. They are heavier, tend to come with chunkier,tires and are more of a chore climbing...BUT...the dividends pay off when you are going down hill...float, "cush", speed and control are all yours.

The rear shock generally needs to be pumped up to what you weigh.

Those Rocket Rons are superb tires, great choice. What about the Hans Dampf? Later I guess?

Those hydro lines are not a big deal, I have Elixr-r's and juicy 3's on some of my bikes, I leave em long as they came ready to bolt on and go..no issues, just not a big deal. Alas I have that dreaded avid "turkey gobble" sound on my rear when it's wet. Seems to be a trait with many avid brakes.

Your term is dead on..."cush"..makes or breaks the ride I say! Comfort, traction, control and grip all rolled up into one schwalbe! Over inflated tires will have you bouncing and deflecting off obstacles and can make things unstable at speed over technical terrain, can have you spin out on steep, wet technical climbs also, leave that for the street. With modern compounds on the trails the loss of optimum rolling resistance is negligable.

Alas, if you are bottoming out your fork, I think its either heavier oil or a new spring but I think your weight should be okay even if it's up at the upper margins. 25-30% sag is alright. I've never owned a Tora so I'm somewhat guessing admittedly.

I'm a big fan of Schwalbe tires! I have Marathon series tires on my commuter and my trekking bike. I won't ever consider anything else. I have been very impressed so far with puncture resistance, traction and durability. These are Nobby Nic tires, I thought about Hans Dampf but these were 25% cheaper and I figured for my riding should be adequate. They're supposed to be good allarounders too. I run them at 40psi front, 45ps rear. I believe minimum recommended is 35psi, so I don't want to go too low.

The fork never bottomed out yet, I was just worrying that it sags probably over 30% when stationary. I do hope to lose some weight though in the next two months, that should help on several levels :D

LOL, yeah, I get that sound with all my Avid mech brakes too. If you're referring to that weird sound the pads make against the rotors.

Thanks for all the advice. That's very helpful. I won't worry about the geometry though :) I just need the rear shock pumped up.

Silly question :o Is it considered dorky to ride with knee/shim, elbow and wrist armor/pads on the trails (as opposed to DH, AM or DJ)? I had few moments I thought for sure I was gonna fall on the rocks. I only have the bike to thank for not slamming the ground. Lucky it only ended up with some goose bumps. Most of the trails around NYC that I know of are rocky with lots of sharp, loose rubble all the way to larger stones the size of a soccer ball. I also have some cuts on my shims from thorns and such.

Silly question :o Is it considered dorky to ride with knee/shim, elbow and wrist armor/pads on the trails (as opposed to DH, AM or DJ)? I had few moments I thought for sure I was gonna fall on the rocks. I only have the bike to thank for not slamming the ground. Lucky it only ended up with some goose bumps. Most of the trails around NYC that I know of are rocky with lots of sharp, loose rubble all the way to larger stones the size of a soccer ball. I also have some cuts on my shims from thorns and such.

If you feel the need for protective gear you should wear it, and screw what anybody on the trail thinks about it. My definition of dorky is letting other peoples' opinions of you make your decisions for you. But that's just my opinion.
Nice bike, BTW.

If you feel the need for protective gear you should wear it, and screw what anybody on the trail thinks about it. My definition of dorky is letting other people's opinions of you make your decisions for you. But that's just my opinion.

Good point. Thanks!

nah, few things hurt so much as slamming your elbow/forearem, knee/shin and/or face onto some sharp edged rock. If you think there is a real possibility of falling and getting hurt, armor up accordingly. After all, you still have rent to pay and family obligations to attend to and you've gotta be at work first thing Monday AM.

Also, give 35psi I try and see what they do. I dont have Rocket Ron's on any of my bikes at present but when I went to 30+/- on my Conti race kings 2.2", mnt kings 2.2", Maxxis Crossmarks 2.1" my rides went from nice to glorious! (all state a minimum of 35 psi btw and IMO even that was a bit too 'solid') Give her "cush" and not "bounce", not enough to give you pinch flats of course, but someday give it a go and see how it performs.

OK, I'll order some armor then :) And I'll try 35psi and see what happens. Thank again!

Sweet lookin bike!

Sweet bike !:thumb:

Sweet lookin bike!


Sweet bike !:thumb:

Thanks!