General Cycling Discussion - About to buy my first bike in over twenty years

Bikeforums.net is a forum about nothing but bikes. Our community can help you find information about hard-to-find and localized information like bicycle tours, specialties like where in your area to have your recumbent bike serviced, or what are the best bicycle tires and seats for the activities you use your bike for.




JonnyL
07-05-11, 05:17 PM
As stated elsewhere (in the Introductions section) I’m in my mid 40s and haven’t ridden a bike seriously in 20 years. I used to commute by bike back in England - it wasn’t nearly as fashionable as it is now - and I used to enjoy the odd long weekend ride. I was never involved in any organized cycling but put quite a few miles on the bike all year round.

I’m now looking to get back into cycling as, like most blokes in their forties, I’m not in great shape and I’d like to do something about that.

I’ve been reading this forum for a month or so now and find it a fantastic source of information. However, it’s all a bit confusing. I am currently suffering from sticker shock. It’s not a cheap hobby is it? I’d budgeted about $750s for a bike, which is really more than I can afford but I thought I’d get something decent at that price. I’ve been met with a mixture of contempt and disdain in a couple of nearby bike shops. I don’t get all this loyalty to LBS’s, surely not everyone’s experience can be as bad as mine?

In one shop I went into I told the guy in there what I was looking for, a bike to get me going, I would like drop handle bars because it’s what I’m used to, I’m looking to ride to get in better shape, I want a bike I can ride year round and other than that, my budget is around $750s, can you help me at all? I was told realistically, I’m looking at $2000s to get started (or a Trek hybrid). A good bike would cost me a minimum of $1500s plus pedals (which seems a bit like a car coming without an ignition), plus shoes, shorts, helmet etc.. The shop ( I presume) owner, then excused himself to help someone load up a very expensive looking mountain bike into the trunk of a 4X4 outside directing any question I may have to a boy who looked about twelve sat at the cash register reading a comic book. Needless to say, I couldn’t wait to take out a second mortgage and spend it all in that shop, right there, that very moment. Another LBS, told me the Giant Defy 3 would be perfect, I could up grade later and wouldn’t you know there’s one on the floor that’s your size. Nice bike but not really what I’m after.

So I circled the wagons and did a bit more research and thinking and over time at work!

I’ve stretched my budget to $1200 max, including tax and pedals and weird stuff like that. Shoes will have to wait a month or so.

I’m under no illusions that I’m going to win Le Tour and I’m cool with that. I’ve never had an aluminum framed bike nor a carbon fibre one. All I’ve ever know is steel and I’m happy with that. So it’s a steel frame I’m looking at. I want a road bike and, as stated above drop handle bars.

I walked into a Bianchi dealer a few towns over fearing the worst. Christ if some one flogging a Giant is going to look down at me what’s a Bianchi guy gonna do? Couldn’t have been more wrong. Steared me towards a Volpe and it’s a thing of beauty. Checked out my size, figure a 57 cm frame would be about right then told me take it for a ride. It felt good. It felt real good. Seems to check all the boxes of what I’d like a bike for but it’s almost too much of a bike if you know what I mean.


The gears, shifters, how long have they been combined with brake levers? When did they move? Seems overly complicated to me. The additional brake levers on the bars are great but are they over kill? To my mind the whole set up is just something to go wrong. Then I get confused with the group sets is it? 105 guys look down on Tiagra who look down on Sorra guys (have I got that right?) Who look down on 2300 guys? Do Shimano really make components that are crap or is this just snobbery?

I’m not looking to up grade, I’m looking to get riding. Seems the more I read the less I know. So I like the Volpe but I’d like to simplify it somewhat. One set of brakes. Shifters where they used to be, on the tube. It is a lovely bike and I’d rack up some serious miles on it given time, I’m sure. Has anyone ever tried repairing one of these integrated brake shifter combos? Looks pretty hard to me. In my experience bikes fall over now and again, get knocked about a bit.

So my quest continued. I came across the Masi Speciale CX. Looks sound, solid. It appears comprable to the Volpe though without the second set of brake levers ( a plus for me) and two not three front rings on the gears. Not something that bothers me unduly. I grew with 5 speeds and 10s were for the rich kids. So it looks like a great bike but I’ve yet to track one down to try out. Then I see the Uno, a step down but a fine looking bike. Almost identical save for an inferior group set. But how bad can it be? Will it crap out? Or is this whole group set thing a gimmick other than up at the top end? For an average rider does it really make a massive difference?

If you’re still reading, thanks. Any thoughts? Advice? Abuse?


duffer1960
07-06-11, 04:41 PM
There are some good & some bad shops to be sure. I tried to like a large chain located nearby but, the last straw was trying to order a specific model at ~$1300 in my size & being told I could have the (too small) one in stock only and today only, take it or leave it. And this was early in the season, could well have sold me the bike I wanted. Elsewhere, I rode a Volpe and really liked it. In retrospect, I might've been happier with that than with what I eventually bought.

The shifting should be pretty good even with the less-$ gruppos. I think. Higher $ gets more longevity, but even the cheaper ones are pretty good I'd guess. Yes, the brifters are fragile. Almost like a swiss watch inside. I don't own a bike with these, don't know how long they should last. Replaced a set of 2-button type for a friend's mtn bike, he'd fallen & broken the shifters ( same shop told him, wrongly, that he needed a new der). My current bike has bar-end indexed 9-speed. Surprised how expensive these levers are when I priced extras for setting up alternate bars.

Scott_TN
07-06-11, 05:15 PM
Most every major bicycle brand has a line of bikes in the $500 range. And they are very nice bikes, nothing wrong with that, and will last you a lifetime. You might even find a higher end used bike for $500.

You, like myself grew up with 10 speeds for the rich kids...A $500 bike today is 100% better than that, you will be happy. But if you have $1200 to spend on biking..then go for it! I would rather buy a $500 bike and use the rest of the money for gear. Then if you continue in this hobby, you can always trade your bike in to the same dealer for a newer, better model, and you already have all the gear.


tagaproject6
07-06-11, 05:18 PM
Welcome to the new age of cycling technology mate. Embrace the brake and shifter integration as it is the current mainstream. For a while there, cyclists have been thinking of a way to keep their hands from moving about too much from the handlebars to somewhere else on the bike just to shift, i.e., downtube shifting. This was resolved somewhat with the relocation of the shifters up higher onto the stem...

This integration is not necessarily a bad thing and worrying about repairing them in case of a crash is somewhat a waste of energy. If you damage them in a crash, you have other things to worry about. They are not as fragile as you perceive them to be. They are, however, expensive. It is much like not wanting power windows on your cars because it is another thing that might break down and a pain in the ass to fix.

But, if you are set on going "old school". Check out the Specialized Allez Steel roadbike. They come with downtube shifters and have quite the following from a select few that prefer steel.

As far as Shimano heirarchy, you start from the more affordable component group, which is the 2300, then Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, Dura-Ace. They all work quite well and have had no reported reliability issues, unless you count the complainers about them not being "smooth" or what-have-you! They will not explode nor crap out. Those that look down upon your choice of componentry is best ignored as they do not matter. The point is that you are on a bike and that you are getting the benefit that cycling imparts.

Greg_R
07-06-11, 05:21 PM
In one shop I went into I told the guy in there what I was looking for, a bike to get me going, I would like drop handle bars because it’s what I’m used to, I’m looking to ride to get in better shape, I want a bike I can ride year round and other than that, my budget is around $750s, can you help me at all? I was told realistically, I’m looking at $2000s to get started (or a Trek hybrid).This is outrageous. $750 will get you a nice bike for road riding. For example, Performance Bike (national chain) is currently selling a Fuji Newest 3.0 for $600 (Sora mix of components). Add in a helmet, pedals, flat kit, frame pump, etc. and you're at $750. Note that this is if you are buying new!

In terms of components, anything Shimano or SRAM is going to work well for you. Shimano Sora is in your price range... shoot for that or better for the rear derailleur & shifters. The other components (front derailleur, cranks, etc.) can be off-brand items.

You want to ensure that the bike fits you properly & is comfortable... that is more important than component selection for your style of riding (fitness, enjoyment, etc.). Expect to aquire the following within the first few months:

- helmet
- pump (CO2, frame, and/or floor pump)
- pedals (most bikes don't come with reasonable pedals). If you go clipless then you'll need to budget cycling shoes into the equation. Figure $120+ for new shoes and clipless pedals. Alternatively you could get platform pedals with either clips or straps (and use street shoes)... this is much cheaper.
- Saddle (the ones that come with cheaper bikes are often throw-aways). The throw-away saddle will work until you start riding for longer distances or times.
- Patch kit (get one and know how to use it). A spare tube (not tire) would be a good idea to have as well.
- Water bottles & bottle cages for the bike.
- Basic maintenance items (chain lube, rags for cleaning, etc.)

JonnyL
10-05-11, 07:29 AM
I went for the Bianchi Campione in the end. $800s, steel frame, down tube shifters - that's what swung it for me. Got to say it's a massive improvement on anything I've ever ridden. The folks at Bikeland in West Caldwell couldn't have been more helpful if they'd come round and pedaled it for me. Faith in LBS's somewhat restored.
I'm sure the bike is somewhat gimmicky, with it's retro touches but for an oldie like me it fits the bill. I feel comfy with cages on the pedals, I have no problem with down tube shifters, I've come off it once already when I unleashed my inner idiot bombing round a deserted park - no cars - early one Sunday morning. Except for a few lung busting, leg s to jelly moments on a few hills in Upper Montclair, I'm pleasantly surprised how easy it has been to get back into riding, hence the long delay between initial post and this one. Thanks for your helpful responses.

Cycling again is somewhat bitter sweet; I'm enjoying it but also reflecting on all those wasted years when I just thought about cycling rather than actually getting on a bike. I'm really impressed with the bike. I've no plans to up grade other than a Brooks leather saddle at Christmas. The only thing I have changed is the bar tape, from tape to cork tape, for comfort. I still think the Volpe is an excellent bike and if I wasn't worried about potential repair costs I'd have gone for it in a heart beat.

So right now I'm zipping around on the stock tires but I'm contemplating some wider, more grippy ones as the weather turns. The fork looks good up to a 32mm so that shouldn't be an issue. Got my shorts sorted and picked up a wool top off Realcyclist for a good price. Good few hundred miles under my belt, averaging around 15miles a ride with 25 the max so far on a weekend. Sure I could go longer, it's pretty flat round here if time permitted. Sleeping better, feel better even contemplating eating better and laying off the ale but let's not go crazy here, eh?Thanks for reading.

SlimRider
10-05-11, 07:45 AM
Hey there JonnyL!

Sounds like you had the good sense to make an excellent decision before it was too late.

Good for you!

Happy Trails!

- Slim :)

JonnyL
10-05-11, 07:50 AM
Thanks there SR. Fascinating Youtube link that, on the Madone frame.

jack002
10-05-11, 08:08 AM
Glad to hear you made a descion and are back on a bike. I wonder if you know what "brifters" are? That's what we call the brake and shifter combo. Like you, I was leary of them when I came across them, I bought a bike (canondale r900) with them on it. They've been really reliable. I wouldn't worry about them being too complicated. Its good news that you're back riding again. Your legs will catch up and it'll be fun again like it was. Trade up the bike later if its not what you wanted. Being a biker is not owning a bike, its what you are.

RaleighSport
10-05-11, 10:05 AM
nice bike choice :D

ThermionicScott
10-05-11, 12:29 PM
I wasn't around when this thread started, but I hope the Campione works out for you. Nice to see that Bianchi still has room in their lineup for a simple steel bike with DT shifters and toe clips. :)

- Scott

P.S. Stop kicking yourself over not riding. I think a lot of us have done the same thing (I barely touched a bike for a decade after getting my driver's license). Just make up for it in the present.

hybridbkrdr
10-09-11, 11:31 AM
Yes, I would like to abuse you for making me read such a long message. lol, just kidding.

You can read my message here where I was talking about rear derailleur quality. I think it addresses a few questions you have here: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/773747-Which-bike-derailleur?p=13339592&viewfull=1#post13339592

garage sale GT
10-09-11, 11:42 AM
Bigger tires can interfere with the brakes as well as the fork and stays.

Edit: I am talking about the middle of the tread, not the sides.

JonnyL
10-20-11, 07:02 PM
Thank you both. The derailleur debate has my head in knots. So far so good with the low end 2300 on my bike. I've been advised to go with either Gator Skins or GP400s from Continental on the tires. Still finding my feet but I'm hooked on this cycling lark. You could spend serious money if you weren't careful couldn't you?