Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Any heavier riders ride the Cannondale Synapse?

Hey guys,

just wondering if any heavier riders out there (250+) have rode the Cannondale Synapse line? Specifically the Synapse 7 Sora? Was it comfortable and stable enough for you? Went to my LBS and looking at buying one for $899.99CND. Worth the price, or should I go for the CAAD8 7 SORA instead?

If you haven't been riding regularly, my guess is that just about any road bike is going to feel nervous at first. The Synapse and CAAD frames are pretty different in terms of geometry. These bottom-end Sora-equipped bikes are pretty much identical in everything other than frame geometry. The CAAD8 has a more aggressive, race-inspired geometry while the Synapse has a slightly more relaxed geometry. If you're looking for stability the Synapse is the way to go, though the wheelbase is a bit shorter than other relaxed-geometry bikes (ex: Specialized Secteur).

Edit: my recommendation would be to avoid Sora components. Shimano's Tiagra-level components work much better and are worth the extra money.

I'm guessing you'll find the Synapse to be a slightly more comfortable ride. I think there's more than just marketing goo in their rear triangle design when it comes to providing vertical compliance while maintaining torsional and lateral stiffness. I liked it enough to buy the alloy version with 105 components, but I no longer meet your weight criterion, so my impression may not hold water for you.

If you haven't been riding regularly, my guess is that just about any road bike is going to feel nervous at first. The Synapse and CAAD frames are pretty different in terms of geometry. These bottom-end Sora-equipped bikes are pretty much identical in everything other than frame geometry. The CAAD8 has a more aggressive, race-inspired geometry while the Synapse has a slightly more relaxed geometry. If you're looking for stability the Synapse is the way to go, though the wheelbase is a bit shorter than other relaxed-geometry bikes (ex: Specialized Secteur).

Edit: my recommendation would be to avoid Sora components. Shimano's Tiagra-level components work much better and are worth the extra money.


Cheers for the reply Storkel! I've take a look at the Tiagra and it's a bit more expensive, but still within my budget. I'm 295, and assuming I'll need some handcrafted wheels to support my weight! Do you suggest a 32 or 36 spoke rim? I guess it really depends on who makes it, right? Think you could point me in the right track to some websites that sell custom wheels?

Cheers mate, really appreciate the help :)

Definately get at least Tiagra. I think 105 the sweet spot in shimano's line. Check out Trek's 2.1 before you buy.

Cheers for the reply Storkel! I've take a look at the Tiagra and it's a bit more expensive, but still within my budget. I'm 295, and assuming I'll need some handcrafted wheels to support my weight! Do you suggest a 32 or 36 spoke rim? I guess it really depends on who makes it, right? Think you could point me in the right track to some websites that sell custom wheels?

Cheers mate, really appreciate the help :)

300lb is within the range the manufacture recommends for the specialized relax road geometry bikes that are comparable to the synapse... Don't buy new wheels right away. You may be surprised that the stock wheels will work fine for you, particularly if you exercise some reasonable care. I've had no problems with the stock wheels on any of my bikes.

Cheers for the reply Storkel! I've take a look at the Tiagra and it's a bit more expensive, but still within my budget. I'm 295, and assuming I'll need some handcrafted wheels to support my weight! Do you suggest a 32 or 36 spoke rim?

The specs don't say what sort of wheels come stock with the Synapse, but the picture makes it look like they have quite a few spokes. I'd give the stock wheels a try before you rush off to spend more money on custom wheels that you may not need. Before taking delivery of the bike, suggest to the shop you're buying from that they give the wheels a thorough inspection including checking the tension on every spoke. Let them know that you'll be back to have the wheels repaired under warranty if there are any issues.

If you have problems, it will most likely be with the rear wheel. Often, rebuilding the wheel with better-quality spokes will cure the problem and be much less expensive that buying a new wheelset.

Actually the specs do say what the rims are, if not the hubs, nor the make and gauge of the spokes. The rims of the Alloy 6 Tiagra model (and the Alloy 7 Sora) are Maddux DRX 4000. Looks like spoke count is 32 front and rear. I assume this is correct, as I've verified the same info on the Alloy 5 105 I bought (Shimano RS10 rims and spokes, 16F/20R).

I started at 280 lbs on my Synapse carbon frame. I've been riding since February logging 1400 miles with no issues.

Right one guys! Cheers for the replies!!

Since Cannondale is no longer making bikes for North America, their supply is really low. So, instead, I went and looked at their Trek line, and test rode a 1.2, but would be getting the 1.5 with the Tiagra shifters! It's $1,199 at my LBS but I think if I wait a few months I can save a good $300 come September.

Anyways, I test rode it yesterday on a 58CM frame, and they think I will need a 60-62CM. Really loved the bike, it rode really smooth and held up really nicely for the 30 mins I rode on it!

Thanks guys, anyone hear anything bad about the 1.5? Cheers:)

FYI, there are lots of bikes in this category. If you like the Synapse and the Trek, you should also look at the Giant Defy, Specialized Secteur, Felt Z85, Fuji Newest and possibly others.

I like the Synapse, and rode one yesterday.

The big selling point is the higher headset and more upright geometry. It make a difference on longer rides. I am looking at relaxed or touring style bikes.

Just a comment about the Sora Shifters. I bought a Specialized Sequoia base model a couple of years ago and hated those shifters so bad I went to ebay bought a used set of Ultegra, switched them out and sold the soras on ebay. I hated the thumb toggle, unless you are comfortable with them, I would go to the next higher level.

I am getting the itch for another bike, now that I have crossed the 100 mi/wk threshold. The Synapse is at the top of the list. But I am thinking carbon...

FYI, there are lots of bikes in this category. If you like the Synapse and the Trek, you should also look at the Giant Defy, Specialized Secteur, Felt Z85, Fuji Newest and possibly others.

That Felt is a nice bike. I rode it on a Saturday at a shop near where I work, and was planning to go back and buy it on Sunday, but they were closed. So I went and test rode the Synapse at another shop that was open, and was sold.

FYI, there are lots of bikes in this category. If you like the Synapse and the Trek, you should also look at the Giant Defy, Specialized Secteur, Felt Z85, Fuji Newest and possibly others.

Yes I'm looking at the Specialized Secteur as well! Sadly, I can't seem to find any prices on their site, and none from my LBS's website either...looking for the $1,300 range, hoping I can get a Secteur with tiagra shifters for that price; but I can't tell!

I just rode with somebody who rides one. His name is"freedomrider"on the 50+ forum. He seems to like his a lot.

Marc

Yes I'm looking at the Specialized Secteur as well! Sadly, I can't seem to find any prices on their site, and none from my LBS's website either...looking for the $1,300 range, hoping I can get a Secteur with tiagra shifters for that price; but I can't tell!

Specialized has prices all over their site (edit: the USA site, anyway)! The Secteur models range from $940 to $1800. The Secteur Elite Compact is the only model that doesn't seem to show a price, though it appears to be between the $1050 Secteur Sport Triple and the $1450 Secteur Sport Apex.

Yeah, I was on the Canadian site! I noticed shortly after posting that the MSRP was listed on the American site only :)

Do you think the Trek 1.5 would be a better bang for my buck than the secteur? I noticed the only Secteur without Sora shifters in my price range is the apex for almost $1,500; a bit more than I'm willing to throw into my first bike. Even that bike has SRAM apex shifters; not sure what those are?

Do you think the Trek 1.5 would be a better bang for my buck than the secteur? I noticed the only Secteur without Sora shifters in my price range is the apex for almost $1,500; a bit more than I'm willing to throw into my first bike. Even that bike has SRAM apex shifters; not sure what those are?

The Secteur Elite Compact has Tiagra components and should be a bit cheaper than the Secteur Elite Apex. Don't know if the Tiagra-bike is available in Canada or not.

I'm not a huge fan of Trek bikes. I think they tend to be a bit too expensive for what you get and I'm not wild about some of their business practices.

Apex, FYI, is SRAM's entry-level component group. I haven't ridden it, but I would expect it to be similar to 105 or Tiagra in terms of quality and durability. I would definitely suggest test-riding SRAM before you buy it. I love the way that SRAM works and have SRAM Red components on my main road bike. They're not for everyone, though: SRAM shifts tend to be immediate and abrupt, as opposed to Shimano's more leisurely and smooth shifting.

The Secteur Elite Compact has Tiagra components and should be a bit cheaper than the Secteur Elite Apex. Don't know if the Tiagra-bike is available in Canada or not.

I'm not a huge fan of Trek bikes. I think they tend to be a bit too expensive for what you get and I'm not wild about some of their business practices.

Apex, FYI, is SRAM's entry-level component group. I haven't ridden it, but I would expect it to be similar to 105 or Tiagra in terms of quality and durability. I would definitely suggest test-riding SRAM before you buy it. I love the way that SRAM works and have SRAM Red components on my main road bike. They're not for everyone, though: SRAM shifts tend to be immediate and abrupt, as opposed to Shimano's more leisurely and smooth shifting.


Oh sweet, thanks for letting me know what SRAM was! I will call another LBS who deals in specialized bikes and will ask them if they've got the Secteur elite compact and for what price. What's the difference between the compact and the non-compact versions? Anything significant? For some reason I had the odd idea it meant it was a womans bike :P

Compact cranksets allow smaller sprockets to be used. My take on the reasoning is that with a 2 speed compact crankset running a smaller low gear allows you to run a smaller big gear on the rear cassette. A smaller big gear on the cassette allows smaller jumps in the rear gears. Smaller jumps allows finding the perfect gear. If you want a 3 speed crankset this is a moot point.

Cheers Jethro :)

Gonna call my LBS tomorrow and ask about the Secteur! :)

Oh sweet, thanks for letting me know what SRAM was! I will call another LBS who deals in specialized bikes and will ask them if they've got the Secteur elite compact and for what price. What's the difference between the compact and the non-compact versions? Anything significant? For some reason I had the odd idea it meant it was a womans bike :P

"Non-compact" isn't really the other choice. The precursor to compact cranks are the ones with the old-school, large chainrings (53/42 or 52/42). They're still available, but probably not unless you go for a full-tilt, higher-end racing bike. In the range of bikes you're looking at, your choices will be a compact crank (50/34 or something like it), or a triple. That's if the model you want is even available as a triple. Some are, some aren't.

And yes, the terminology can be confusing. "Compact" is also used to describe a certain type of frame geometry, though it isn't related to gender.

Oh sweet, thanks for letting me know what SRAM was! I will call another LBS who deals in specialized bikes and will ask them if they've got the Secteur elite compact and for what price. What's the difference between the compact and the non-compact versions? Anything significant? For some reason I had the odd idea it meant it was a womans bike :P

The "compact" label, at least in the Specialized product lines, refers to the type of crankset that the bike has. On modern road bikes, there are essentially three choices:

A "standard" crankset is typically found on racing bikes. The crank has two chainrings, typically one with 53 teeth and one with 39 teeth. Often you'll see this abbreviated 53/39. If you're a strong rider or ride mostly on flat terrain, you may want a standard crank.

A "compact" crankset also has two chainrings, but they use a smaller BCD or Bolt Circle Diameter. Because of the smaller diameter, a compact crank can have smaller chainrings. Typical chainring sizes are 50 and 34 teeth (a.k.a. 50/34). The smaller number of teeth makes the bike easier to pedal, which is a great benefit if you're out of shape, climb a lot of hills, or have bad knees.

A "triple" crankset has three chainrings, which can cover a wider range of gear ratios. Typical chainring sizes are 52 or 53 teeth, 39 teeth, and 30 teeth (a.k.a. 53/39/30). A triple crank will often cover a slightly wider set of gear ratios than a compact crank. A triple crank has quite a few duplicate gear ratios, so it often requires less front shifting. The disadvantage of a triple crank are greater weight and, perhaps, slightly more difficult setup and maintenance. A bike with a triple crank will have specific shifters and front derailleurs that will only work with a triple crank.

Of these three setups, I like to use a 50/34 compact crank with a wide-range (ex: 11-28) cassette. I feel like I get virtually the same gearing as a triple crank and slightly better shifting.

As others have mentioned, the term "compact" can also refer to a compact frame. A "compact" frame is one that has a sloping top tube. Because the sloping top tube lowers the standover height, a compact frame can generally fit a larger number of people for any given size frame.

Cheers guys, I really appreciate all the feedback and help I've been given! :)

So, basically the compact is better for those who climb hills, are overweight, or have bad knees? I'm just wondering if I go with the compact, if I will eventually have to upgrade as I get into better shape? I just don't want to dump $1,500 on a bike that I'll have to switch in a years time. I really don't have a problem with standard bikes (non-compact?), so I don't think it's necessary to get a compact, unless it is cheaper and you guys think it would be more beneficial.

Also, with a compact, won't I be spinning at a higher cadence (I believe this means RPM?) in higher gears on flatter ground than I would on a standard bike?

I think what you need to focus on is whether you want a triple or a compact crank. Like many have stated a full sized crank is more for a racing bike. The bikes you've mentioned are relaxed geo road bikes. Unless you're very fast the larger crank is wasteful. Let's say you're running 20 mph. That's too fast for most of us in the small chainring. With a 53 big chainring you'll be in a bigger sprocket in back and your chain will not be running as straight back as with a 50. A twisted chain (cross chained) will waste energy. So even with the same cadence it takes more effort to go 20 mph.

Alright thanks guys!! As I mentioned, will give the LBS a call tomorrow morning and will then let you guys know my decision :D Cheers :)

I'm just wondering if I go with the compact, if I will eventually have to upgrade as I get into better shape? I just don't want to dump $1,500 on a bike that I'll have to switch in a years time.

At a cadence of 100rpm, a 53-tooth chain ring combined with an 11-tooth rear sprocket will have you traveling at 37.8mph.

At a cadence of 100rpm, a 50-tooth chain ring combined with an 11-tooth rear sprocket will have you traveling at 35.7mph.

Unless you're planning to be in Tour de France-winning shape within the next couple of years, I suspect that you won't find the compact crank to be a limitation...


Also, with a compact, won't I be spinning at a higher cadence (I believe this means RPM?) in higher gears on flatter ground than I would on a standard bike?

Your cadence is based on the gear that you select. You're free to select a gear that is extremely difficult to pedal and turn the cranks slowly. You're also free to select a gear that is easy to pedal and spin the cranks quickly. Or anything in between...

At a cadence of 100rpm, a 53-tooth chain ring combined with an 11-tooth rear sprocket will have you traveling at 37.8mph.

At a cadence of 100rpm, a 50-tooth chain ring combined with an 11-tooth rear sprocket will have you traveling at 35.7mph.

An excellent point that, I think, is often lost when folks are deciding if a compact crank will somehow "limit" their ability to go fast.

The difference in the crank is at the other end...

going from memory if the triple is 30/27 (triple granny) versus 39/27 (compact inner) it makes going up hills a lot easier for a clyde.

This clyde will be in a triple for a while.

At a cadence of 100rpm, a 53-tooth chain ring combined with an 11-tooth rear sprocket will have you traveling at 37.8mph.

At a cadence of 100rpm, a 50-tooth chain ring combined with an 11-tooth rear sprocket will have you traveling at 35.7mph.

Unless you're planning to be in Tour de France-winning shape within the next couple of years, I suspect that you won't find the compact crank to be a limitation...



Your cadence is based on the gear that you select. You're free to select a gear that is extremely difficult to pedal and turn the cranks slowly. You're also free to select a gear that is easy to pedal and spin the cranks quickly. Or anything in between...

Ah cheers mate, makes much more sense now :) Will be calling my LBS within the next few hours! Off to watch the Tour :)

This clyde will be in a triple for a while.

Not necessarily. If you run an online gearing calculator (http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/), you'll see that there's very little difference between a standard road triple (53/39/30) and a compact double (50/34) crank when used with a wide-range (11-27 or 11-28) cassette. In fact, SRAM Apex actually gives the widest range of gearing by combining a 50/34 compact crank with official support for an 11-32 cassette.

A triple crank does give you the ability to swap in even lower gears, but that requires spending additional money. I've also found that it makes the bike more likely to drop the chain when shifting to the smallest chainring, so you might need something like a Deda Dog Fang to keep it in place.

If it were me, I'd stick with the compact crank. If you can't climb it with a compact, you're not going to be able to climb it with a stock road triple...

Alright guys, just got off the phone with some dealers in my city, and the only people who carry Specialized bikes is Tommy & Lefebvre. There are numerous locations in my city, but only one answered the phone. Anyways, I was talking to the guy over the phone, and their prices seem to be about $100-$150 above that of the listed MSRP on the Specialized website; is that normal? Right now, however, they are having a "tax included" sale, where if I buy my bike now, I won't pay tax, or something like that...

I asked about the Sport Secteur Elite Compact, which was the bike I wanted to get, and even he couldn't give me a price, because apparently they don't have it in store, and it needs to be shipped in. I don't see what the big deal is with this one bike? The store doesn't have a price, and neither does the website; kinda odd..

Anyways, I can get the Secteur Sport Triple for $1,149 taxes in (I believe), however it has Sora shifters. I'm at a loss really...no idea what to buy now!

You still haven't rode a Felt Z series or a Giant Defy or a bunch of bikes similar just about everyone makes a relaxed geo road bike now.

The Giant Defy is atleast $500 more than I am willing to spend, and there is only one Felt dealer in my area. Will call them now if they are open and ask what models they have. Hopefully all of them, and I can get down there for a test ride :)

Do you have an opinion on the Fuji "Newest" series? They seem to be somewhat affordable and have Tiagra shifters even at $1,150. How about the Roubaix bikes? They seem racier :)

a Giant Defy2 is 1229 CND List (Tiagra) a 2011 should be discounted into your price range.

The Giant Defy is atleast $500 more than I am willing to spend, and there is only one Felt dealer in my area. Will call them now if they are open and ask what models they have. Hopefully all of them, and I can get down there for a test ride :)

Giant has an aluminum bike called the "Defy" which should be in your price range. There's also a carbon fiber bike called the "Defy Advanced" which is more expensive. The Felt Z-series bikes are similar: the Z85 and Z100 are aluminum, but the Z2, Z4, etc. are carbon fiber.


Do you have an opinion on the Fuji "Newest" series? They seem to be somewhat affordable and have Tiagra shifters even at $1,150. How about the Roubaix bikes? They seem racier :)

I have a friend who owns a Fuji Roubaix with Shimano 105 components. It's a very nice bike, though the geometry is definitely race-oriented... which you may find uncomfortable, especially on longer rides. The Fuji bikes that I've seen seem to be pretty decent. If I were in the market for an entry-level bike with relaxed geometry, I'd probably take a look at the Newest.

After checking out the Defy series, it seems like a great bike, however I don't think they make my size. The highest I could see is a 58, which I may still fit on, but a 60 or 62 would be much better I think. As for the Fuji, it's looking really nice, and has my price range but sadly only comes in the 58 as well...Will the 2CM really make a difference?

Also, I know I'm asking a lot of you guys, and I'm all over the place with ideas and brands, but has anyone ever rode the Jamis Ventura Race bike? It's about $1,299 at Sportchek, and I can get it for under $1,000 as I have some rollerblades I'm returning and some giftcards. It has Shimano 105 shifters and many other higher quality specs. Is this something you guys would recommend? Sadly it's not really from a LBS, and I'd prefer to give my money to them, but if the price is right and the bike is good enough, I'll get it! Thing is, I'll have to get some new wheels as they have a low spoke count, but I'll still be saving a couple hundred bucks.

At some point, you have to stop asking questions and just go test-ride some bikes. At this point, it sounds like you don't know whether you want a race-bred torture rack or a plush/relaxed/endurance bike. Why not test-ride one of each so you'll know? Come back and ask some more questions once you have a better idea of what you want or need...

I do agree that at some point I will have to go ride them all, however I really don't want to travel across the city to ride a bike which is known to be complete garbage. I have heard some mixed reviews about the Jamis Ventura and just wanted to know if it's even worth considering.

I was where you are now a month ago. Until I actually started riding the different relaxed geo bikes I didn't know what I wanted. I ended up buying something I hadn't researched at all. I went in to ride a "researched" bike. The salesman was an older guy like myself (54). I talked to him about different bikes I'd rode and what I thought about them.There were things I liked and things I didn't like about each and every bike I'd ridden. He knew and had ridden the models I'd looked at (same ones you're looking at only 105 level componets) He said "I want you to ride one of these." I said "I've ridden (deleted) version of this and I didn't like it because of (blaw,blaw,blaw)" He said "This bike feels alot different than the (deleted)." So I got on it and 1/4 mile down the road I'm thinking, "Wow this is pretty nice. But it won't be able to handle the rough roads I ride on." So off I go trying to prove what my reasearch had lead me to believe. Couldn't do it. Rode it for an hour. Bought it. Love it.

Well, it's good to know I'm not the only one in this situation! Problem is for me is that I really like the Giant Defy 2, and the Fujis, however they don't make the 60CM frame I need, which is a bummer...

anyways, I guess I'll find something sooner or later, thanks guys :)

I do agree that at some point I will have to go ride them all, however I really don't want to travel across the city to ride a bike which is known to be complete garbage. I have heard some mixed reviews about the Jamis Ventura and just wanted to know if it's even worth considering.

Above $1000, I doubt you're going to find anything that's complete garbage. Please: go ride something. Anything! I think you'll find that some real-world riding experience will help crystallize your thinking more than another few days of shooting the breeze with a bunch of random yahoos on an Internet forum...

Visit 2 or 3 of the closest dealers, and ride a couple of bikes at each place. Since you don't seem to know what kind of bike you want, I'd suggest asking for one bike with aggressive/race geometry and another with a more relaxed geometry. Ride each bike for at least a couple of miles, not just around the parking lot. It's also not a bad idea to ride at least a couple of bikes that are way beyond your budget. Look for something with a carbon fiber frame and Ultegra components. Riding an expensive bike back-to-back with an inexpensive bike is a great way to find out what you're missing... and whether it matters to you.

Keep in mind that getting a feel for your local dealers is probably just as important as deciding which bike to buy. Does the dealer seem to know what he's talking about? Is the shop well-staffed? Is there a huge wait before you can get your bike serviced? As a newbie, those questions are probably just as important as "Which bike should I buy?"

Also, I know I'm asking a lot of you guys, and I'm all over the place with ideas and brands, but has anyone ever rode the Jamis Ventura Race bike? It's about $1,299 at Sportchek, and I can get it for under $1,000 as I have some rollerblades I'm returning and some giftcards. It has Shimano 105 shifters and many other higher quality specs. Is this something you guys would recommend? Sadly it's not really from a LBS, and I'd prefer to give my money to them, but if the price is right and the bike is good enough, I'll get it! Thing is, I'll have to get some new wheels as they have a low spoke count, but I'll still be saving a couple hundred bucks.

The Jamis Ventura Race is a good looking bike on paper, and I've heard good things about them, but one of the local dealers here doesn't stock that model, and the other (where I tried the Felt Z85) was reluctant to put me on it, saying I'd find the Felt much nicer. Could be nothing but sales BS, hard to tell. I will say the Jamis's carbon mono-stay is an intriguing feature I would have liked to test. I know Jamises have the reputation of being a lot of bike for the buck.

I do agree that at some point I will have to go ride them all, however I really don't want to travel across the city to ride a bike which is known to be complete garbage. I have heard some mixed reviews about the Jamis Ventura and just wanted to know if it's even worth considering.

None of the bikes you've mentioned are anything close to "complete garbage." ;)

I think you have to either winnow it down by looking at geometry and deciding what you think is more appropriate to your body and riding style, and go from there, or face the fact that you're going to be driving hither and yon to test ride them all. Many of us would find that a pleasant (if expensive) way to spend a Saturday afternoon. :D

The dealer is really nice, very large, has lots of staff, and the guy that helped me seemed to be more of a rider, and not a salesman. In fact, he came out and told me he's new to retail and doesn't know much about bikes...The head guy in shop told him to help me, so I knew they were using me to kinda test him. There wasn't a long wait, they said a week or two max to get it in; I don't think that's too bad?

Mind you, this was for the Trek 1.5. The bikes I want to try are the Fuji Roubaix 2.0 and 3.0. I'd love the Fuji Newest 1.0, but they don't make my frame size; I guess I could try the 58 anyway if they got it in stock. I'd also like to try the Specialized, but chances are I will go with the Trek 1.5 Guess we'll see, cheers guys :)

The dealer is really nice, very large, has lots of staff, and the guy that helped me seemed to be more of a rider, and not a salesman. In fact, he came out and told me he's new to retail and doesn't know much about bikes...The head guy in shop told him to help me, so I knew they were using me to kinda test him. There wasn't a long wait, they said a week or two max to get it in; I don't think that's too bad?

Mind you, this was for the Trek 1.5. The bikes I want to try are the Fuji Roubaix 2.0 and 3.0. I'd love the Fuji Newest 1.0, but they don't make my frame size; I guess I could try the 58 anyway if they got it in stock. I'd also like to try the Specialized, but chances are I will go with the Trek 1.5 Guess we'll see, cheers guys :)

Don't get a smaller frame. I did and it was a big mistake. I've since had to sell that bike and buy a new one. Just get a bike that feels great. Like others are saying, test ride!

Cheers guys, the Trek 1.5 and Specialized Secteur are both looking really good :)

Lots of good advice on this thread. I got in a little late, but I have been riding a Synapse 6 (alloy) for about 4 years. Started at 244 lbs, and it tolerated me just fine. It's been a great, comfortable ride for me. Your mileage may vary.

Don't get a smaller frame. I did and it was a big mistake. I've since had to sell that bike and buy a new one. Just get a bike that feels great. Like others are saying, test ride!

Just remember that the number painted on the side of the frame doesn't tell the whole story. The 58cm Giant Defy that the OP was worried about earlier actually has a top tube that's pretty close to the a 61cm Specialized Secteur in length. That doesn't necessarily mean that either bike will fit him, but sizing is generally based on the seat tube length which turns out to be one of the least important parameters when fitting a bike...