Mountain Biking - Gettin a 9 speed to shift really smooth...???
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04-13-02, 11:53 AM
After the blow torch incident...(see other post on cutting chain) I got my new drivetrain in....I can't for the life of me get the shifting to be really smooth....I can get it either really smooth. but not shift into one of the gears, or rough in all gears....also....have a lot of chain slack when I put the new chain on when I'm in the smallest sprocket in the smallest crank chainring....sooooooooo much slack....I look one link out, but still way to much slack.... Could this be the problem with my shifting, and should I take more links out ???
04-13-02, 12:03 PM
Put it in small, small, and take out just enough links to put some tension on the derailleur.
04-13-02, 02:20 PM
Put it in large/large, without it running through the der, then add two links. If you don't accomodate the large/large combination, you will have a disaster if you accidentally shift into it.
04-13-02, 06:17 PM
when I built my bike, with the instructions for the rear derailleur, it showed what lenght the chain should be. I believe it was large chainring (crank)/smallest sprocket (cassette), then the two pulleys shoud be center under the smallest cog, i.e. if you took a straight edge, you could line it up through the center of both pulleys and the smallest cog, this should create tension for the chain. hope this helps :)
04-13-02, 07:17 PM
here is what i used to figure out my chain length when i was putting together my new bike. There is a special forumla to figure out the exactly length (in inches) that you will need.
Short Formula L = 2 (C) + F/4 + R/4 + 1
L = Chain length in inches. Round the final result to closest whole inch figure. Remember to round up from 0.5.
C = Chain stay length in inches, measure to closest 1/8”. Use chart below to find decimal measurement.
F= Number of teeth on largest front chainring.
R= Number of teeth on largest rear cog.
here is the link if you want some more info:http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQchainlength.shtml
Also i would reccommend getting one of those tool kits they sell at supergo.com or jensonusa.com it has everything you need including a chain tool for $45 bucks.
04-15-02, 09:48 AM
First things first! Take an old spoke and cut it into a 6 inch piece. Bend both ends down. Use this to hold the chain together and provide you with some slack as you remove links, or put the chain back together.
I do what Klein suggested and put it into small - small and just enough to tension the derailleur.
I then (before I remove links) I'll carefully (difficult while chain is disconnected) put it in the big-big combo to make sure I'm not overtensioning the derailleur.
If you are caught in this situation (sometimes happens with Full suspension bikes in the rack without load on the suspension-or a 46 tooth chainring) it's better to have the chain too long rather than too short!
If the chain is too short and you shift to big-big, you'll rip the derailleur off the bike!
If the chain is too long, and you shift to small-small, the chain will slap the chainstay.
A slapping chain is better than a destroyed derailleur. Either way you shouldn't "cross-chain" to big-big or small-small under normal riding. You would shift to a more appropriate combination to get the same gear!
I have a problem when I go from 26 to 27. It won't shift into 27 at all, and makes a grinding noise. I want to learn to adjust this stuff myself. (I live about 60 miles from the bike shop that I bought it.) Any suggestions? I am handy with tools, just no to familiar with the componets on my bike. (I always had free maintence, so I left it to the experts.....)
04-15-02, 03:28 PM
O.k. I suggest you try www.parktool.com good explanation and pictures to boot!
Remember, new cables will stretch for about the first 100 miles requiring multiple adjustments. After initial stretch only occasional minor fine tuning.
If that doesn't help, PM me and I'll try to help you out!
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