Touring - New drivetrain ideas for my LHT

The entire drivetrain on my LHT is pretty beat. I'm pretty bad about normal maintenance, and it's beginning to show. I cleaned everything and installed a new chain and noticed worn chain rings.

The cassette was replaced a 2000 miles ago (or so) and appears to be in good shape.

The darn bike still doesn't shift well. I'm using friction shifting. So, I'm considering replacing the entire drivetrain, but I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to switch to 7-speed to make it easier to hit the right gear with the friction shifters.

Thoughts?

If money were no object, I'd get a Rohloff, but that's not in the cards anytime soon.

What drivetrain does it have now? 3x9?

Does your rear shifter have an option to be indexed? I have found that 9-speed can be a bit difficult in friction mode since the gears are closer together, but I have never had a problem with 9-speed indexed bar-end shifters. That would be a good thing to try first.

Take the bike to a good shop and see what they can do with it before you do anything expensive.

If you do replace the drivetrain, think about the pros and cons. Some things I have thought of:

PROs
- 7-speed is more durable
- Replacement parts (like chains and cassettes) are less expensive
- Works a little better with friction shifters

CONs
- Wide-range 7-speed cassettes can be hard to find
- If you ever decide to go to brifters, 7-speed brifters generally suck
- It means replacing the entire drivetrain

Another sort-of PRO is that a 7-speed cassette isn't as wide as a 9-speed cassette, so the rear wheel doesn't need to be dished as much and is a little stronger. While you can put a 7-speed Hyperglide cassette on a 9-speed freehub, you don't get the additional wheel strength unless you replace the wheel or rebuild it with a 7-speed hub.

Everything I've said pertains to Shimano parts. If you've got Campy, I have no idea.

What drivetrain does it have now? 3x9?

Yep, stock Surly LHT Shimano stuff.



Does your rear shifter have an option to be indexed? I have found that 9-speed can be a bit difficult in friction mode since the gears are closer together, but I have never had a problem with 9-speed indexed bar-end shifters. That would be a good thing to try first.


It does, but it's broken. I've replaced the shifter once and indexing still was problematic.



Take the bike to a good shop and see what they can do with it before you do anything expensive.


It's been to two shops. It was better briefly each time.



If you do replace the drivetrain, think about the pros and cons. Some things I have thought of:

PROs
- 7-speed is more durable
- Replacement parts (like chains and cassettes) are less expensive
- Works a little better with friction shifters

CONs
- Wide-range 7-speed cassettes can be hard to find
- If you ever decide to go to brifters, 7-speed brifters generally suck
- It means replacing the entire drivetrain

Another sort-of PRO is that a 7-speed cassette isn't as wide as a 9-speed cassette, so the rear wheel doesn't need to be dished as much and is a little stronger. While you can put a 7-speed Hyperglide cassette on a 9-speed freehub, you don't get the additional wheel strength unless you replace the wheel or rebuild it with a 7-speed hub.

Everything I've said pertains to Shimano parts. If you've got Campy, I have no idea.

The main reason for wanting 7 speed is the ease of getting the right gear with a friction shifter. I looked around for 7-speed cassettes and couldn't find anything as wide as my 11-34 on there now, but a 13-34 was available. That'll work. I lose a little high-end, but I'm slow. :)

It's all Shimano now, and probably will remain that way. I have no desire to run brifters on my touring bike.

I'm going to have a new rear wheel built no matter what I do. It needs it. So, I need to figure out what direction to go so that I know what hub to use, 9-speed cassette, 7-speed cassette, or Rohloff ($$$!).

Is there anyone out there running 7-speed on there touring bike? Issues? Recommendations?

have someone double check the alignment of the derailleur, you may need to have the hanger straightened

What is the cost comparison between conventional drive and a Rohloff? The Rohloff *should* be the last drivetrain you ever buy for that frame and maybe for the next one after it, if they're as good as they say they are.

If you haven't tried bar end shifters, maybe it's time.

You said you replaced the chain and cassette, what kind of shape are the rings in?

What kind of shape is the front der in?

on my thorn i have 9 speed shimano xt m770 model with tiagra 9 speed triple sti shifters ,the shifting is spot on every time .i don't think is would be a wise decision to go 7 speed no need really.
i also have barend dura ace shifters on another bike once you get used to them there great but i would prefare the sti.
the xt cassette is brilliant great range of gears and quality .
i think you need some fine tuning on your drive train maybe change the cables and housings .
nah stick to 9 speed. good luck .

Sticking with derailleurs, I thought Shimano's 7 speed K cassette
did just the right combination of cogs for touring ,
and adding more "speeds" was pointless.
(but If I was having a gig at Shimano's product engineering shop I'd feel different, on payday)

I've been touring a long time with a 6 and 7 speed cluster , and friction shifters ..
happen to prefer the older tooth styles, myself ,

as Ghost shifting happens sometimes, and was engineered so,
to eagerly jump chain to the nearest cog..

still decent freewheels to be found, combine with a Phil wood Hub and its very reliable.

new 135 wide 7 speed FW combo spoke bracing becomes nearly symmetrical .

now if they made the double keyhole drilling in the right flange, all the better ..
change out spokes without unscrewing F/W..

[I ran 48 spoke rear to have spares already in the wheel , myself.. ]

____

Daily riders, now, I use a Schlumpf 2 speed crank and a IG hub rear .

the 2 gears in the crank make the gears in the hub , operate in 2 different ranges.

so for example , you pick say a 38T chainring and a larger cog on the hub,

to get the low you need, then a tap on the button in the crankarm center ,

and that ratio is multiplied by 1.6 , so top gear on the flats is plenty high.. ["60.8t"]



they also make a reduction gear version, I have 1 on on my folding bike

turns the basic AW3 into a mountain climber..

as if, say, you could make a 50/20 double.. chainring crank set..
without shifting the chain..




******

Shimano's IGH????

I like friction shifters only that,s what I have on my LHT.They are barend friction shifter only I got mine at velo-orange.I run a 24,34,46T chainring and a 11-32T cassette and it shifts great I will not use anything but friction shifters on any of my bikes.My 2 cents.

If you haven't tried bar end shifters, maybe it's time.

You said you replaced the chain and cassette, what kind of shape are the rings in?

What kind of shape is the front der in?

The rings show some damage, but mostly on the big ring. I think it's impact damage as I spend most of my time in the middle ring. There is some where in the middle ring, but not bad. I don't shift the front often.

I didn't notice any problems with the derailleurs.

The problem is rear shifting. LeeG mentions bent derailleur hanger. I'll have to check that.

I am using bar-end shifters - stock Shimano ones. I switched to friction mode. I considered down-tube for a while, but decided against it.

What is the cost comparison between conventional drive and a Rohloff? The Rohloff *should* be the last drivetrain you ever buy for that frame and maybe for the next one after it, if they're as good as they say they are.

I would love a Rohloff for this bike. There's no way I can afford it within the next year and I want to be able to ride the bike without shifting issues.

Okay. I took the bike to the shop. The cassette was pretty worn. I feel stupid, I cleaned and looked at the cassette, and it looked fine to me.

I had the shop replace the cassette and readjust the derailleur, and all is well. I also had them replace my shredded bar tape (from last week's oops).

The chain rings are also worn, but it shifts okay, so the shop says to keep riding it a while longer.

Since having wider spacing between cogs was the primary consideration for a 7sp cassette, consider that the spacing between 8sp cogs and between 7sp cogs is nearly identical; both would be similarly friendly IRT friction shifting. I realize this is a non-issue now, just an FYI.

Anyhow, you must ride in some harsh conditions to wear out a 9sp chain and cassette in 2k miles!

Since having wider spacing between cogs was the primary consideration for a 7sp cassette, consider that the spacing between 8sp cogs and between 7sp cogs is nearly identical; both would be similarly friendly IRT friction shifting. I realize this is a non-issue now, just an FYI.

Anyhow, you must ride in some harsh conditions to wear out a 9sp chain and cassette in 2k miles!

I'll keep the 8sp in mind. I'm still running 9sp friction now, and it's working much better. I'd like a Rohloff, but it'll have a wait a year or three (or seven).

This bike is my do-everything bike. I've only done a little touring, but I commute on it in all weather. My friends and I have a propensity for riding gravel roads. I'm heavy, and I sometimes carry heavy loads. I'm also not good about keeping up with maintenance. Yes, I'm hard on a drivetrain. :)

I have mine set up for 7sp indexed (though I built it myself). You shouldn't need to replace the derailers, just the cassette and chain if you want... a 9-sp chain will work on a 7-sp cassette, just won't last as long.

There's not tons of choices for cassettes since Shimano discontinued their high-end 7-speed cassettes. You can still get Sram and SunRace cassettes up to 32T and 34T, I think the Shimano ones I've seen with a 34T too.

With a triple in front, I haven't had any issues with only having 7 cogs in back.