Bicycle Mechanics - wobbly crankset on road bike

i have an Argon road bike. The Crankset is slightly wobbly.

The crankset is built right into the bottom bracket as it is one piece.
To remove the whole thing you take off the other crank leg and pull the whole thing out

right now the problem is . The bottom bracket and crank set is in the bike fully.
Its all the way in as it is suppose to be.

but the crankset side is slightly wobbly.
It won't come off or anything, but more less annoying.

there is nothing to tighten it with, as no more screws

how do i tighten this crank set?

thanks

need more info ,and some photos would help too . with that then we can help you .

I'm assuming it's not a Shimano crankset as if it were the adjustment would be easy. The cause of the wobbling could be any number of things but the two times I've come across the problem it's been due to improper assembly. A shim was left off making the spacing between the cups too narrow resulting in wobble. Look up your particular crankset on the manufacturer's website and verify that all of the proper parts are in place. If not, track down those parts and correct the problem. In both of my cases, FSA provided the missing parts for free.

It is not a Shimano Crankset. But rest of bike is Shimano 105.
Like the crankset and bottom bracket is like a one piece. This is more of a higher end road bike too.
I like to ask if anyone out there also owns Argon road bikes. I will re edit this forum and put with Argon.\\


Actually. i do not want to troll on this issue. But i am going to repost this in a new forum on mechanics.
please forgive me I just want some feed back from other Argon owners in case someone else has had similar problem

You really need to post more info if you want help. Is this your bike ? http://www.argon18bike.com/velos/route/radon-en-ca.html

If not, what model do you have?

please forgive me I just want some feed back from other Argon owners in case someone else has had similar problem

That the bike is an Argon is irrelevant. We need to know what model of crankset you have in order to assist you in figuring out what might be assembled improperly or what, if any, adjustments are possible. That you continue to refuse to give up this information is baffling.

Crank and crankset is Truvativ
GXP
elita. pics to follow shortly

it is something like this one

http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-rouleur-oct-crankset

mine is 4 years older

Here are the photos of my road bike and the crank parts

Are both cranks arms wobbly ? If you wiggle the right crank, does the left one also move (suggesting it's the bottom bracket), or does just one arm move, while the other is tight (suggesting it's the left or right crank)

According to SRAM, the solution is to remove the crank set, regrease at all appropriate locations and re-torque to spec: http://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/95-6115-007-000%20Rev%20A%20-%20Road%20Cranksets_3.pdf

Only the crankset ( right ) wobbles.
Its only the arm on right that wobbles.
left side is secure as it a stone statue and the bottom bracket is very solid.

Yes mine if the GXP. I have done a degrease. I have taken it all out and grease the whole thing, But still wobbles , just at the Crankset part. I cleaned it 100% and then relube the whole assembly, put it all back and still wobbles.

Yes mine if the GXP. I have done a degrease. I have taken it all out and grease the whole thing, But still wobbles , just at the Crankset part. I cleaned it 100% and then relube the whole assembly, put it all back and still wobbles.
Did you read the link posted by joejack above? It says regarding wobling for the GXP and GXP Pressfit:

Check the assembly for play by rocking the crank arms back and
forth away from frame. If the crank moves, tighten crank arm bolt until no play
is detected. If maximum torque of

54 N·m (478 in-lb) has been achieved, remove the crank arm from the spindle,
apply additional grease and repeat installation procedures until play is
eliminated.

Hello all can anyone help me on this one still. Still have a major wobbly crankset. No way to tighten it. anyone offer advice.

Did you torque the bottom bracket cups and crankset bolts to spec? If that doesn't work, replace the bottom bracket cups. That's the only part that could wear and cause the wobble (assuming it hasn't been there since the bike was new). While you have it apart, make sure the integrated axle hasn't somehow come loose either. I highly doubt that could happen but you never know.

The bottom bracket cups are secure. The crankset part is like still wobbling. It is like there is nothing to secure it. I have to like have the crankset as close to the bottom bracket as possible, but does not happy that the middle part is loose, but nothing there to secure it. There is no bolt or anything to secure. I tried to hammer it in. does not work. so I'm stumped

The bolt on the left crank arm tightens everything down. Tighten it to spec as has been suggested. The cranks will butt up against the BB cups, that's normal, and really the only way for everything to be securely tight.

Try like a bigger hammer.....

I've got that same crankset on multiple bikes, it works great. I have taken them on and off several times (moved them from bike to bike, etc.) I would suggest you head to a bike shop at this point.

For me to loosen the brackets. what way do i turn the bolt to loosen it.

For me to loosen the brackets. what way do i turn the bolt to loosen it.

Do they have bike shops in Ontario?

From the photos it looks like some chainring bolts are missing. Take the bike to a shop and get them replaced.

From the photos it looks like some chainring bolts are missing.

I don't think so. Those Elita cranks use paired hex bolts and are hollow in the middle.

Yes the cranks are hollow in the middle.
I found my bracket tool i need but its been a long time since i last worked on them,
from the left side.
What way do i turn the large round bolt or bottom bracket part to loosen.
That is all i want to know.

How come these cranks have to be so complicated?
does it make them better then the rest?
tell me

Still waiting for an answer on this simple question. please, be nice and tell me what way to turn it

Still waiting for an answer on this simple question. please, be nice and tell me what way to turn it

Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. Should work on your crankset.

I'm not convinced that you haven't got some bearing wear if it's only one side that wobbles. Also, is your BB held together with electrical tape?

Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. Should work on your crankset.

No, it won't. English threaded bottom brackets use a right hand thread on the left (non-drive side) cup and a left hand thread on the right (drive side) cup. The cups themselves are frequently marked with these directions and the proper torque, which I assume will be ignored by the OP since he's somehow managed to get this far ignoring every other bit of advice offered to him.

How come these cranks have to be so complicated?
does it make them better then the rest?
tell me

I can only imagine how much you'd hate to have an adjustable cup and cone bottom bracket. External bearing BB's and cranks are about as simple as it gets it in terms of installation and adjustment ease. I highly suggest spending some time reading at www.parktool.com or spending some time with an experienced mechanic. You seem to want to be spoon fed experience and a quick fix without you having to lift a finger so I'm certain that's too much to ask but I'll do it anyway.

WT,

Your crank is an external bottom bracket crank. As such, the bearings are contained in two cups external to the bottom bracket shell. If the left arm is solid and the right arm is wobbly, I am suspecting that the place where the right arm attaches to the hollow axle has come loose. You can check this by pushing and pulling on the right side crank arm, and feeling if the arm moves while the axle stays still. If that's the case, then Truvative owes you a new crank arm- this should never happen, at least in our lifetimes. But, it looks like there's some damage to the crank, so they may have an issue with replacement. You may be looking at a new crankset.

Anyway, once you get the left arm off (should just be one screw), the axle can be tapped through the bottom bracket cups with a soft hammer and a drift to remove the right crank and axle. Then the left side bearing cups unscrews normally but the right side bearing cup unscrews backwards (left-handed threads). But if the cranks spin freely and without binding or roughness, there's probably no reason to remove the cups. Unless you replace the whole crankset- then it's probably a good time to get a new bottom bracket (bearings anyway).

It looks like the bb shell is wrapped with tape. One of the chainring spokes is wrapped with tape alsl. What is the purpose of this? Have you been to a bike shop?

No, it won't. English threaded bottom brackets use a right hand thread on the left (non-drive side) cup and a left hand thread on the right (drive side) cup. The cups themselves are frequently marked with these directions and the proper torque, which I assume will be ignored by the OP since he's somehow managed to get this far ignoring every other bit of advice offered to him.

I thought he was on about the bolt that pulls the crank arm into the bearing. My bad.

very funny

very funny

Which bit? I was being serious!

very funny

What's funny? You will need to be more precise with your communication if we are going to be able to help you. You have been given various anwers and a potential course of action but you have not responded with anything that helps us to help you. Why is there tape on your bb and crank?

Right the tape . Cause when i last turned the BB. Part of the it broke. Some of the metal. So i had to put tape in to keep the dirt out.

The crank part with the tape is now gone. That was part of an experiment. That did not go well. I put in string around my cranks in between the small gap and was able to secure the crank from not wobbling any more. did work for a few weeks but slowly came loose and now i have to fix it properly.

So the tape is now gone.

You need new a bottom bracket and perhaps a crank. Tape and or string has no place on this application. You would be best served by a qualified bike mechanic giving you an evaluation. Why not take it to the place you bought it?

We've been trolled. I'll bet the tape on the crank is covering a cracked crank spider arm.

No one has been trolled, it just how it is.

No one has been trolled, it just how it is.

Go see a mechanic.

Go see a mechanic.

+ Infinity...

I thought he was on about the bolt that pulls the crank arm into the bearing. My bad.

You know, he did sort of ask about both so you were half right :) And I was definitely wrong in projecting my aggravation at the OP towards you. Sorry about that.

Well perhaps more on this. i am having troubles loosening my BB now, it won't even budge.

strange@

Forgive me for pointing out the obvious but you seem to be having trouble following the answers posters here are giving. Is there some reason you cannot take this to a qualified mechanic? If you are not mechanically inclined, it is possible to spend far more on this situation by trying to do it yourself.

The tape is there because the BB cup is cracked? And the tape is holding it together? Small wonder it's wobbling. Get a new crank and BB and quit bothering us.

I'm glad I clicked on this thread, it made my day! :lol: Especially loved the attempt to tape everything together...

Ok folks the tape stop making fun of the tape.
So you know i took out the crank and was able to open the BB. And i greased the proper spots as to what it says in the manuel SRAM has online

I put it all back in place but the crank is still wobbly. everything is all tight and pushed in as far it should go and torgued

Really now folks why would it still be wobbly.
please be serious in your answers

FOR GOD'S SAKE, GET A NEW BOTTOM BRACKET AND/OR GO TO A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC. Everyone who posted in this thread was giving you good advice. You just chose to ignore it and pass it off as "not serious."

Really in all seriousness, the fact that you have used tape at all is a big red flag and you still have not answered why it is on one of the crank spokes. Is the crank cracked? We cant see it in the photo but there is definitely tape wrapped around one of the crank spokes / spider. This thread is getting almost comical. You are either trolling us in which case, a lot of good people are wasting their time trying to help or you really don't have the knowledge to take good answers and apply them to your situation. Please see a professional mechanic before you hurt yourself or your bike.

This thread is more amusing than the previous trollings. I especially like the part about the tape! I think this has about wound down, though. Can't wait for the next one.....

ok i did take bike to bike shop, ends up it was quite shot, needed new BB and crankset, and basically replacing whole drivetrain as that makes senses

so i was wrong to begin with, trying to fix it myself, when i all needed to be replace
this is an expensive sport,

ok i did take bike to bike shop, ends up it was quite shot, needed new BB and crankset, and basically replacing whole drivetrain as that makes senses

so i was wrong to begin with, trying to fix it myself, when i all needed to be replace
this is an expensive sport,
Can I say it? Ok, I'll say it.

WE WERE RIGHT.