Bicycle Mechanics - For the builders - compatibility, and other questions

I think I'd like to build up a really nice road bike to round out my stable of old clunkers, a single-speed conversion, and my soon-to-be-purchased fixed gear. I most definitely want to build it myself, even though I know it will cost more than buying a complete bike.

Newbie questions follow.

Is there a guide out there of what components are compatible with eachother? For example - if I bought Campagnolo Record Ergopower shifters, would I have to use Campy derailleurs & cassette, or are they compatible with Shimano stuff?

If I bought an older bike and started upgrading to a newer component set, what do I have to keep in mind while shopping for the bike? Is there a year when things changed and now new components don't fit older frames, or aren't compatible with older components? Off the top of my head - when did wheels go metric?

Is there a resource out there for reading up on the different brands and models of bikes throughout the years - something that would give me a good idea of what I might find to be a desirable frame, aside from buying then selling every used bike I can get my hands on? And/or maybe a nice set of descriptions for how different bike geometries affect handling, bumps, and ride positions. I know it's best to try things out, personal preference and whatnot, but it'd be nice to narrow the selection down a bit, or have an idea in my head of what I'm looking for. Right now my only knowledge comes from my limited experience with my three salvation army bikes (that I love to wrench on, but I long for something new that doesn't need to be fixed/adjusted every other day), or the LBS's who desperately want to sell me new bikes.

Thanks! I think asking these questions now will stop me from posting "what do you think of this..." questions every day.

I think that those are really tough questions to answer adequately.

I think that bike components work best when they all match. For example, I think that the lower end Shimano shifters have a little "slop" built into them that allows you to overshift them just a touch that matches the manufacturing tolerences that exists in Shimano's lower end derailleurs. If you mix an XT shifter with an Acera derailleur they'll still work, just not quite as well.

Some people will swear that you can mix 7 and 8-speed shifters and cassettes with impunity. I have had a fair amount of experience with doing that and my opinion is that it kind of works, just not to my satisfaction.

For a first attempt, I'd advise making sure that all of your components matched. Once you've had the experience of seeing how everything works when it all matches, then you can start "cheating" here and there to see if some deviations will still meet your expectations.

I haven't built any brand-new bikes but have completely upgraded a number of old ones, piece by piece. One of the things you asked is basically, "when did bikes start using modern parts?" Well the problem is that this differs for each part, for example my 1994 Trek hybrid (CrMo) has a modern cassette hub and 700C wheels, but the cable stops are designed for canti brakes rather than linear pull cantis. I didn't learn to recognize what was modern/obsolete when looking at an old frame until I had dealt with that part on my current bike. So I guess my advice would be to really know your components cold, then you'll be able to look at a garage sale bike and say, "Hmmm, I don't think I'll be able to fit a 9-speed hub in those 126 mm dropouts."

EDIT: A bike I built (http://toleressea.net/bike/bikes.html#hybrid). It's heavy but has a very modern Shimano LX/XT drivetrain, brand new brakes, and a rear rack. It actually turned out to be more or less a touring bike, and I use it for commuting.

As for frame geometry and materials, maybe I can give you some useful links, because I've gotten interested in this myself:
An Introduction to Bicycle Geometry and Handling (http://www.dclxvi.org/chunk/tech/trail/)
Bicycle Metallurgy - All about the advantages/disadvantages of different frame materials (http://www2.sjsu.edu/orgs/asmtms/artcle/articl.htm)

Also, a few rudimentary frame observations: longer chainstays => smoother ride, shorter chainstays => tighter turns, less trail => tighter turns, more trail => more stability, drop bars => faster but uncomfortable to ride with a backpack

Enjoy :)

i disagree

matching stuff is certainly easier, but not nearly as much fun, or creative. your best bet is to have an overarching concept in mind of what you want the bike to be. then, start figuring out what it will look like, and all the parts will fall into line. you should post the questions individually, and assemble to bike and the components piece by piece (frame, brake system, drive train + shifters, fork and headset, wheelset)

i would advise against building up a conventional road bike, unless you want to ride the way that road bikes are meant to be ridden (ie on smooth roads, fast, without having to stop, for long distances).

i just built a bike for the city. i wanted it to be light and fast, but good for starting from dead gears, and rugged for potholes. i had this concept, and I ended up building a cyclocross/time-trial/retro suntour/touring beauty. if you are going to build a bike, don't build one that you could buy prefab.

Is there a guide out there of what components are compatible with eachother? For example - if I bought Campagnolo Record Ergopower shifters, would I have to use Campy derailleurs & cassette, or are they compatible with Shimano stuff?

If I bought an older bike and started upgrading to a newer component set, what do I have to keep in mind while shopping for the bike? Is there a year when things changed and now new components don't fit older frames, or aren't compatible with older components? Off the top of my head - when did wheels go metric?

Trying to mix components is a black hole if you don't know what you are doing,and there is no book. Index stuff doesn't dance well with non index stuff.

If I bought an older bike and started upgrading to a newer component set, what do I have to keep in mind while shopping for the bike? Is there a year when things changed and now new components don't fit older frames, or aren't compatible with older components? Off the top of my head - when did wheels go metric?

Is there a resource out there for reading up on the different brands and models of bikes throughout the years - something that would give me a good idea of what I might find to be a desirable frame, aside from buying then selling every used bike I can get my hands on? And/or maybe a nice set of descriptions for how different bike geometries affect handling, bumps, and ride positions. I know it's best to try things out, personal preference and whatnot, but it'd be nice to narrow the selection down a bit, or have an idea in my head of what I'm looking for. Right now my only knowledge comes from my limited experience with my three salvation army bikes (that I love to wrench on, but I long for something new that doesn't need to be fixed/adjusted every other day), ...You'll have a lot fewer issues if you buy a decent early 90s or later frame.Again, all the issues you could have with older junkier stuff could fill a big book that doesn't exist.

i just built a bike for the city. i wanted it to be light and fast, but good for starting from dead gears, and rugged for potholes. i had this concept, and I ended up building a cyclocross/time-trial/retro suntour/touring beauty. if you are going to build a bike, don't build one that you could buy prefab.Yeah, but I suspect you knew what you were doing and not starting on the bottom rung.Bet that is an 'interesting piece', but WTC are dead gears?

as far as making campy brifters work with shimano, its not hard at all with a jtek shiftmate http://jtekengineering.com/shiftmate.htm I have campy 9 speed brifter and rear der and i run shimano 9 speed cogs on my chris king hubs. he has a few different shiftmates depending on your combo ie if campy brifter with shimano rear derailer etc.

like others have said, have a concept in mind and research on how to make it work.

Yeah, but I suspect you knew what you were doing and not starting on the bottom rung.Bet that is an 'interesting piece', but WTC are dead gears?

Actually, I really didn't know what I was doing. I spent a lot of time here, on Sheldon Brown's webpage, and bothering guys at bike shops (without buying anything).

Also: Definition of dead gear: You are riding through rush hour traffic, downhill, at 25mph. A stupid pedestrian with a baby carriage steps into the road. You stop. Then you have to start again in 52-12. 52-12 from a dead stop is a dead gear.

That's why I ride with bullhorn bars, with cross brakes (used as a clamp-on trialthlon brake) and suntour barend shifters.

[Quote: Also: Definition of dead gear: You are riding through rush hour traffic, downhill, at 25mph. A stupid pedestrian with a baby carriage steps into the road. You stop. Then you have to start again in 52-12. 52-12 from a dead stop is a dead gear. ]

What are you doing in 52/12 at 25mph....... unless you have 20" wheels on this "hybrid" ??

For me, city riding is spin..... coast.... spin...... coast...... always with 2 hands hovering over the brake levers. My highest gear in the city would be 49/13.

Bobthe....