Bicycle Mechanics - Shimano 600 crank removal

Never taken one of these (or any crank) off before. This crank has the self extractors that say "one key release." Did a search, but I wanted to be sure I'm doing it right. Should I use a pin spanner, or an allen key? Which direction does each side loosen? Thanks for any help...

Allen key. Both are normal right-hand thread ..... you may need an extender to get enough leverage.
The pin tool is to install the self extractor into the crankarm

Thanks.
I guess the next question is how do you re-install?

Turn the allen wrench the other direction.

Turn the allen wrench the other direction.

Sorry if I sound like an idiot, but what is the pin spanner for then?

The collar with the pin holes does not ever have to be removed. An 8 mm allen key removes the crank bolt which, as it backs out, pushes against the collar and pulls the crank arms off.

Since this is probably an Octalink crank, I like to remove the collar with a pin spanner so I can visually assure the crank and bottom bracket splines mate properly before installing the crank bolts and torquing it down. Then I replace the collar. This is a precaution, not a necessity.

Prolly worth squirting some WD40 into the extractor before extracting, IMO.

The collar with the pin holes does not ever have to be removed. An 8 mm allen key removes the crank bolt which, as it backs out, pushes against the collar and pulls the crank arms off.

Since this is probably an Octalink crank, I like to remove the collar with a pin spanner so I can visually assure the crank and bottom bracket splines mate properly before installing the crank bolts and torquing it down. Then I replace the collar. This is a precaution, not a necessity.

The Shimano 600 is a square taper crankset, the 600 group evolved into Ultegra.

Both bolts are right hand so turning them left should extract the crank and turning then right will tighten them after they have been re-installed.

If there is excessive resistance it is best to remove the self extractor, remove the bolt, and use a crank tool... giving things a shot of penetrating oil is a good preliminary step as these will be connected to an older bike and may have been there since day 1.

The op is talking about something like this...

http://thebikestand.com/vint-600-crank-47-39-170.jpg


Just turn the allen and the crank will start coming out. What size is the spanner u are talking about? no idea why would you need a spanner having self extracting cranks in there.

The Shimano 600 is a square taper crankset, the 600 group evolved into Ultegra.
That's correct and I don't recall any Shimano cranks with OEM self-extractor bolts prior to the Ultegra and Dura Ace Octalink versions.

Sugino made an aftermarket self-extractor kit that replaced the factory bolts and dust covers on any 22 mm threaded square taper crank. It used a 6 mm allen key instead of the more common 8 mm key required by the newer Shimano bolts. I had one of the Sugino sets on a 105 8-speed crank (1057) installed on an S&S coupled travel bike to let me remove the crank for packing.

That's correct and I don't recall any Shimano cranks with OEM self-extractor bolts prior to the Ultegra and Dura Ace Octalink versions.

Sugino made an aftermarket self-extractor kit that replaced the factory bolts and dust covers on any 22 mm threaded square taper crank. It used a 6 mm allen key instead of the more common 8 mm key required by the newer Shimano bolts. I had one of the Sugino sets on a 105 8-speed crank (1057) installed on an S&S coupled travel bike to let me remove the crank for packing.

Shimano calls theirs "One-Key Release" and it dates to the same time period as Sugino's "Autex" system: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/shimano1982/pages/08.html . They use a 6mm hex wrench to tighten.

A word to the wise: it's darn near impossible to exert the correct amount of torque with these systems for a square-taper spindle. It's better to replace them with a conventional bolt, assembled with a torque wrench to 25 to 35 ft.-lbs. If you must use a "one-key release", assemble and tighten the crank arm with a standard bolt and then install the one-key release.

I saw more crankarms ruined back then due to insufficient torque. I consider the current crop of hex (Allen) bolts on crankarms (which require 8mm wrenches) to be borderline at best.

Jeff... thanks for posting the excellent reminder on installation.

Have seen many 600 cranks without self extractors in good condition (have a set with extractors right here) because they had their self extracting system swapped for conventional bolts that take the torque better.

6mm for cranks is just crazy.

I consider the current crop of hex (Allen) bolts on crankarms (which require 8mm wrenches) to be borderline at best.
If you tighten them with a standard L-shape Allen key I quite agree with you.

I use an 8 mm Allen 3/8"-square drive bit with a matching ratchet to set the initial tightness, then substitute a 3/8" torque wrench to do the final torque setting.

For the Sugino Autex bolts I had on my travel bike, I brought along a 6 mm allen key and a 10" long extension of 1/8" pipe to give adequate leverage. I would never trust a standard 6mm Allen key to provide enough torque.

But even with a cheater bar, it's asking a hell of a lot from a 6mm allen head. It's only just enough for a single-bolt bar clamp.

For the record, photos of my newly acquired 1984 Lotus Eclair. You can clearly see the works "One Key Release" around the hex head.


240466

240465

I came across this discussion because I too was curious about removing the crankset. I tried turning the hex head to loosen, and after an initial release of stuckness, got only 1 or 2 turns before it hit a wall and wouldn't turn anymore. I guess I was backing out and hit the crank itself. Will try to lube and come back tomorrow. I guess I'll need to put some force into it, yes?

For the record, photos of my newly acquired 1984 Lotus Eclair. You can clearly see the works "One Key Release" around the hex head.

I came across this discussion because I too was curious about removing the crankset. I tried turning the hex head to loosen, and after an initial release of stuckness, got only 1 or 2 turns before it hit a wall and wouldn't turn anymore. I guess I was backing out and hit the crank itself. Will try to lube and come back tomorrow. I guess I'll need to put some force into it, yes?

You have early-'80's Deore cranks, as seen here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/shimano1982/pages/27.html
(I had a set on my old Schwinn Superior. Darn I miss that bike.)

Yes, after backing the bolts out a turn or two, you'll start "extracting" the crank. If you've ever worked with square-taper cranks, you know that they require a fair amount of force to tighten and loosen. This is why I don't like the old-style One-Key Release and Autex systems- a 6mm wrench is just not enough to do the job adequately.

IMO, you would be better off removing the collar and the bolt and then using a conventional remover to take the crank off. Also invest in a conventional bolt and a torque wrench for reinstallation- that's not a crank you want to ruin by failing to tighten it enough.

Great link to the catalogue page Jeff, thanks. I'm adding that to my Lotus dossier!

Two questions - can you elaborate how to remove the collar and bolt? With apologies, I don't even know what collar you're referring to - all I see is that single hex head! I do have crank pullers in the drawer, so that part I understand.
And yes, ok, a torque wrench. Understood.
I just posted my second question as a new thread. Let me link you to it there so all the discussion will be in one place. It's a question about the pedals themselves. Please go to:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/803236-My-1983-Lotus-Eclair-Deore-Pedals-What-are-those-PINS-for

Thanks!
Lance (the other one!)

I think he's suggesting you take out the "one key release" by unscrewing with those 2 little pins. Then use a regular crank remover instead.

I think he's suggesting you take out the "one key release" by unscrewing with those 2 little pins. Then use a regular crank remover instead.


I just did that a couple weeks ago. Worked fine. Did not know they were there for a reason. :)

I see. So I'll need a spanner wrench like this:

240496

to go into those two little holes:

240497

so I can turn and remove the collar. then my crank puller will work.

I see. So I'll need a spanner wrench like this:

240496

to go into those two little holes:

240497

so I can turn and remove the collar. then my crank puller will work.

Exactly. A pin spanner is best, but a pair of needle-nose pliers can do the job in a pinch. It's not good for the pliers, though.

Thanks Jeff. All good to know. Thanks for the help.
(Love your Avatar! I gotta get me a good avatar. . .)

Thanks Jeff. All good to know. Thanks for the help.
(Love your Avatar! I gotta get me a good avatar. . .)


Might I suggest:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/7/7e/Animal_%28Muppet%29.png

Nice. But too magenta.