Touring - Do quality pedals matter?

I haven't completed my Nashbar touring frame build yet. But, I was wondering, if I have Shimano Deore level shifters and front derailleur, Shimano Deore LX rear derailleur, Shimano BB-UN54 bottom bracket, Shimano Tiagra rear hub, and Shimano DH-2N70 dynamo hub, would all this smooth-running gear (I currently have a department store bicycle) be ruined by getting cheap pedals? Can you get high quality plastic pedals? I don't like being hit in the shins with metal pedals. I'm also wondering whether I should consider sealed bearings for pedals or not.

:ride:

I use metal pedals with and without toe-clips and hitting my shin isn't an issue. It might be with very sharp BMX style pins.
The usual recommended platform pedal for touring is an MKS model: Sylvian touring or GR-9.
The bearings have some sealing but are serviceable. They are not the sealed cartridge bearing style.

If you want to use some of the better quality plastic BMX pedals, they should work OK.

Probably depends on how good or bad the pedals are. Some cheap pedals have horrible bearings that won't run well no matter what you do with them. Others are not so bad expecially if given a good relubing and careful adjustment. At least that has been my experience.

Another issues is how long they will last. I have found that for the limited models that I have experience with the Wellgo copy of a Shimano model was fine for as long as it lasted but wore out after 5,000 miles or so while the Shimano lasted several times that long.

Get clipless pedals, and you will stop hitting yourself in the shin. Any MTB pedal should do, but the Speedplay Frog is a nice little round plastic blob, so if you do continue to hit yourself, if doesn't hurt. You'll need MTB shoes or bike sandals to go with them.

Not sure why the pedal is hitting your shin, but if your foot is falling off of the pedal while you are pedaling you should get clipless pedals.

I have bent several cheap pedals and no longer use them. The pedals I have on most of my bikes at this time are quite good but are no longer made. On one bike I have Shimano M324 pedals that I think are still made and work quite well but they are not cheap.

I use metal pedals with and without toe-clips and hitting my shin isn't an issue. It might be with very sharp BMX style pins.
The usual recommended platform pedal for touring is an MKS model: Sylvian touring or GR-9.
The bearings have some sealing but are serviceable. They are not the sealed cartridge bearing style.

If you want to use some of the better quality plastic BMX pedals, they should work OK.
If the pedal spindle is the right diameter for the crankset, that is.

If you go for clipless, get the Shimano PD-M324 which is a pedal which is good based on value for money. It allows you to clip in on one side with MTB-style shoes, and is a platform on the other so you can ride with sneakers or flip-flops.

The beauty of this is that if you prefer right now to go with platforms, you don't lose out. If you decide in the future that you would prefer to go with clipless, you don't lose out. A win-win situation.

By the way, if you are being hit in the shins by any pedal, you need to improve your technique. Just saying.

hybridbkrdr, I don't like plastic pedals as they're generally slippery when wet. A pedal failing while toodling the neighborhood is an annoyance, miles from nowhere much, much more so. It reads like you're building a nice bike, don't cheap out with a component you'll rely upon every second while riding.

Brad

If I wasn't going to use any foot retention (Power Grips in my case), I'd use a set of Odyssey Twisted BMX pedals that I have. If they can take the abuse of BMX and freestyle riding, surely they're tough enough to take on tour. I wouldn't use bottom of the barrel, super-cheap, no-name resin pedals - you can get decent BMX pedals (do watch out for the spindle size!) for $15, and MKS Sylvan Touring (which I use on most bikes) for under $30, no reason to totally cheap out to save only a couple bucks.

BMX pedals will have pins that help with grip, of course if your pedals are hitting your shins you will get to see the patterns the pins make on your skin as well.

For touring I like Shimano pedals with SPD clips on one side and platforms on the other. It gives you the option of comfort or efficiency. Yes quality will matter!

Marc

I haven't completed my Nashbar touring frame build yet. But, I was wondering, if I have Shimano Deore level shifters and front derailleur, Shimano Deore LX rear derailleur, Shimano BB-UN54 bottom bracket, Shimano Tiagra rear hub, and Shimano DH-2N70 dynamo hub, would all this smooth-running gear (I currently have a department store bicycle) be ruined by getting cheap pedals? Can you get high quality plastic pedals? I don't like being hit in the shins with metal pedals. I'm also wondering whether I should consider sealed bearings for pedals or not.

:ride:

Pedal quality at a certain level doesn't matter. Cheap clipless pedals, for example, are just a good as the most expensive clipless pedal. Cheap aluminum quill pedals were almost as good as the most expensive aluminum quill pedal (back in the day). At a certain price point you are just buying vanity. However... Cheap plastic platform pedals are below that certain level. Department store pedals are probably even below the level of cheap plastic pedals. I doubt some of them even have ball bearings. You don't have to spend a fortune but set your sights a little higher.

Last year I switched from clip less to toe clips and platforms. My lbs sold me a pair of pedals with clips and straps for $10. They have been on the bike every since. No problems.

See post #4 from this thread at Roadbikereview (http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=187564&highlight=nashbar+pedals).




The last part of the ride is fairly easy and mostly flat as you cross over the Owens River and head back to the ride start/finish. It would have been all right if our friend Joe hadn't decided to play Superman off his bike. He had been bragging about his super light, new Nashbar brand Titanium pedals. They seemed to be doing him well as he finished about five minutes ahead of us. But, to rub it in he decided to sprint back and make fun of our slow speed. As he headed towards us about a 1/4 mile out he and the bike suddenly launched into the air followed by his sliding along on his head and frontside for about twenty feet before pulling an acrobatic feet of a complete flip and sliding on his back for about another 30 feet. The Nashbar pedal had snapped at the crank as he sprinted the last bit toward us and his foot had pegged the ground. Crash!!!! Final casualty count:
One dead helmet, one destroyed camelback, shredded shorts, shredded jersey, destroyed I-phone case, shredded wallet, broken pedal, and a trashed shifter, all along with a body that included wrecked knees, elbows, back, and buttocks. I included only one shot as all the others had a bright white butt cheek exposed covered in leaking blood. Eeeewwww.

The only pedals I have ever had fail have been department store plastic body pedals. These lived on my commuter unicycle and after enough crashes, the bodies fractured and the bearings scattered into the wind. I replaced them with crappy Wellgo metal bodied pedals off of a doner bike and they've been fine ever since. I would say that as long as you get metal bodied pedals, you'd be fine. They tend to come with a certain level of assumed quality, and dust caps.

OP - You can buy a set of Al Wellgo pedals off ebay for $15-30 that will work well and last for years. Most pedals use cartridge bearings now. The exception is some vintage-style pedals, like MKS, which use balls.

I'll second Valygrl's suggestion of the Speedplay Frog as a candidate for clipless pedals. I've used them for over a decade, Frogs are a great pedal. Beware there is a short learning period for clipless pedals. You'll probably fall over a couple times till you learn the exit procedure.

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_trkparms=65%253A16%257C66%253A4%257C39%253A1&rt=nc&_nkw=wellgo+pedals&_dmpt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&_sticky=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_sop=15&_sc=1

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/pedals.html

Probably depends on how good or bad the pedals are. Some cheap pedals have horrible bearings that won't run well no matter what you do with them. Others are not so bad expecially if given a good relubing and careful adjustment. At least that has been my experience.

Another issues is how long they will last. I have found that for the limited models that I have experience with the Wellgo copy of a Shimano model was fine for as long as it lasted but wore out after 5,000 miles or so while the Shimano lasted several times that long.

this has been my experience too, re some cheap pedals not being worth it.
I have mentioned in the past how impressed I have been with shimano spd pedals and their bearings. My first pair which were used for well over 15 years continue to be used and have just a little bit of play in them--road use granted so not too much muddy conditions, plus I keep them clean, but still, quite impressive lifespan considering how many years I used them all the time and probably putting about 2000km on them each summer easily.

so considering how I have screwed around with cheap pedals, regreasing the bearings etc, my old shimanos were a no brainer in terms of never opening the innards, only doing exterier cleaning and lubing, and they still outlasted by far far far any other pedals I have used. If I recall, they cost $75 or so all those years ago.

Yeah, that kind of puts me in an odd position. I may end up putting the pedals I got on one of my department store bicycles. Because I had already purchased Black Ops BMX bike pedals:
http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=432208
They're plastic and they also have reflectors on them. I thought they might be OK since Niagaracycle has pretty good prices. I mean $15 for pedals in the US might be something like $30 in Canada.

I'm hoping this build will make sense. Because I read some people were not satisfied with an Origin8 frameset but I already purchased Origin8 headset, seatpost and seatpost clamp.

Maybe the first couple of months I'll have to ride the hell out of it to see how well it holds up. lol

if you plan on replacing them when they fail , its no problem ,
keep cash on hand, to do so.

a major trip planned , prepare for it by replacing questionable components,
at home before you start.

There is nothing like a smooth running and well made pedal... once you experience using a high quality pedal you might never want to go back to using anything else.

The MKS Sylvan is a great pedal that usually benefits from a good tuning and once they are set up you can look at thousands upon thousands of happy miles with them. There really is not a better deal out there when it comes to quill pedals unless you come across a deal on some decent vintage pedals.

Shimano makes a very good quality pedal and the 50/50 pedals are great as they allow for clipless riding as well as riding in normal shoes.

I would not buy a pedal that I could not service.

I have a set of these also and found them to be really nice. It was a pleasure to be able to throw on tennis shoes or a set of sport sandals in the evening when going to dinner and use the platform side and still have the SPD efficiency all day.


For touring I like Shimano pedals with SPD clips on one side and platforms on the other. It gives you the option of comfort or efficiency. Yes quality will matter!

Marc

There is nothing like a smooth running and well made pedal... once you experience using a high quality pedal you might never want to go back to using anything else.


I would agree, I see it as with all outdoor stuff that will get used for many years, it is always worth getting a high quality widgit, as in the long run, it will probably be cheaper than low quality stuff that will not last as long, as well as being nicer to use and working better.

Ask yourself: Do you want to have to fix your cheap plastic pedal with tape, bamboo and a sandal 50 km from the nearest road in a 3rd country?

My personal experience will tell you that you don't want to do that.....

Great, I ordered the MKS GR-9 pedals as per the recommendations here. I find them puny as heck compared to the regular plastic pedals that come on department store bicycles. This means if I push hard on them I bet I'll feel them in the middle of my feet. OK, thanks people, I'm going to jump off a bridge now, bye...

Just kidding. I think I may use them after all but once this touring bike is complete, you guys will never believe what kind of message I'll write about it when I'm done. I mean I bought parts twice sometimes because I couldn't make up my mind. Oh well, when it's complete you'll have a long, fun message to read about my stupidities. Just now I received an order with two packs of 4 pedal reflectors. That's right, I thought one pack contained reflectors for one pedal. Sheesh.

I put $35 Forte SPD/platform combo pedals on my road bike, always ridden only on smooth clean paved surfaces. <2,000 miles later they are shot. Spend a few more bucks for Shimano, etc.

I broke a questionable (older, overstressed Crank Brothers Candy) pedal on my last tour when I was right here: http://tinyurl.com/6edjyxm

I had to hitch a ride 20 miles to Clayton, NM, then forage through a tiny town for anything I could get, and winding up with some cheesy plastic Next bike pedals, that I had to ride 120ish miles and over Raton Pass till I could buy some good ones. They flexed under every stroke and felt like they'd snap too.

Quality pedals matter.

I used traditional Campag pedal, steel cage , toe clips and straps..
but that's just me, they are fine as long as you don't pedal into a corner,
tag the pavement, and bend things, like the crank arm and the spindle of the pedal.

but , anyhow, I just boxed up a touring cyclists' bike today the couple came from VA
got some sand from the Pacific shore, they insisted it be sent back in the box..

pedals were plastic, platform no toe clip, pedals. they crossed the continent.

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/files/105_pedals_153.jpg

Of all the loose ball bearings I've repacked this style is the easiest to reassemble that I've come across.

15mm end wrench on the cone and a big one on the locknut (19mm, IIRC) and you have bearing adjustment made easy.

Pedals with the cone and locknut inside the pedal body give me fits. Supposedly some folks grind down sockets to make the job easier for such pedals but I've yet to make my own tools for that job.

I like BMX pedals in the style of the black ops but the pins on that one don't look sticky enough to me. Burlier pins will help keep your feet on. Downside is if for some reason your feet come off and leg contacts pedal you will feel it a lot worse.

Do you intend to use those GR-9s without clips and straps? That sounds awful to me. Slip city!

Great, I ordered the MKS GR-9 pedals as per the recommendations here. I find them puny as heck compared to the regular plastic pedals that come on department store bicycles. This means if I push hard on them I bet I'll feel them in the middle of my feet. OK, thanks people, I'm going to jump off a bridge now, bye...

Just kidding. I think I may use them after all but once this touring bike is complete, you guys will never believe what kind of message I'll write about it when I'm done. I mean I bought parts twice sometimes because I couldn't make up my mind. Oh well, when it's complete you'll have a long, fun message to read about my stupidities. Just now I received an order with two packs of 4 pedal reflectors. That's right, I thought one pack contained reflectors for one pedal. Sheesh.

Another option you might consider, since you mentioned the size of the pedal being an issue ("...I bet I'll feel them in the middle of my feet."), is to get you hands on a pair of MKS Lambda (aka Grip King) pedals. I put a pair on my wife's bike because they have a huge platform and until I put these on her bike, her foot frequent slipped off the pedal. That no longer happens with these pedals and they look really cool.

Yes, I plan to use them without clips. But, I plan to put on some Velox grip tape on them to try to prevent slipping. The MKS Lambda pedals look longer but not WIDER. Are they wider than GR-9 pedals? Anybody know any quality pedals that aren't too expensive but as wide as plastic BMX pedals?

I still intend to use the GR-9 on a bike build. I mean I decided to put all the "less desirable" parts on one bike then save other parts for a future build. I'll probably complete the first bike in the first months of 2012.

EDIT: I guess the guy who recommended the MKS Sylvan Touring pedals might be right. I measured the GR-9 to try to see where they measure as 70x78mm and I'm pretty sure the 70mm is the width. The Sylvan Touring pedals are 94mm wide. So, that should be more comfortable. I guess those might be the ones I would order for the next build. I would still try putting grip tape on them even if I want to put reflectors on them as well. I'll probably just drill holes in the grip tape. hehe (Of course, several MKS models have similar names but I'm talking about the Sylvan Touring model at $25 at niagaracycle.)

I'm not familiar with Velox Grip Tape. Is it like adhesive backed sandpaper? If so, go to a skateboard shop and ask real nice for some grip tape scraps. It would be ridiculous of them not to give it up free of charge.

I have foot issues as a diabetic if 47 years duration - I am now 63 y.o.

My right foot has a fused ankle and a metal leg brace to keep the torque (on the ankle) from walking and pedalling from snapping the fused ankle,
That said, I now do bicycle touring. Over 5 years ago I had arvon1 built. The pedals are platform type ODYSSEY ones. They worked on my 2006 bicycle tour in Northern Australia (2100 km) and on this year's tour in NSW of 1500 km.
Next year I will also use platform metal pedals for the Perth - Adelaide tour (of 2800 km).

Metal platform high quality pedals work for me. I will continue using them. 'If it ain't broken do NOT fix it" :p

Good on you there tmac!! for all the reasons.

'If it ain't broken do NOT fix it"
But a little preventative maintenance will, extend it's life..

Factories see grease as a Cost, so tend to be sparing on it.

and I find hubs and pedal bearings in the lower price point's
if adjustable tend to ship a bit tight.
but a bit of grease added and the cones adjusted and It's all Good Enuf.

I broke a questionable (older, overstressed Crank Brothers Candy) pedal on my last tour when I was right here: http://tinyurl.com/6edjyxm

I had to hitch a ride 20 miles to Clayton, NM, then forage through a tiny town for anything I could get, and winding up with some cheesy plastic Next bike pedals, that I had to ride 120ish miles and over Raton Pass till I could buy some good ones. They flexed under every stroke and felt like they'd snap too.

Quality pedals matter.

I had to zoom out a long way before I got a good look at where this happened. Pretty remote.

BTW, Did your Candy's machine themselve off their spindle? The inexpensive Candy's are known for doing this. I don't think they have bearings...Just bushings.

I recently bought some Sunlite "campus" pedals (cage pedal with SPD on one side, just about everybody sells a version of this). THEY WERE CRAP!!! Out of the box, the spindles were extremely difficult to turn by hand. I popped the dust cap to adjust them, and found there was no keyed washer between the locknut and cone, and the spindle wasn't notched for one. There was no way to properly adjust the cone and tighten it in place. I returned them immediately, better to lose the return postage than put up with such crap.