Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Kilo TT Pro Impressions

Ok, so this is not a thread about BikesDirect, or why I chose to go with them. It is a thread for those who are thinking about buying a Kilo TT Pro. I will update it over the next few months to provide a long term review.

(no pics for now, sorry, I will try to use my words)

Being a Texan, I had to pay taxes, which sucked, but it also meant that I ordered the bike Monday afternoon and it arrived midday on Wednesday which was cool. Out of the box, I noticed it was packaged well, no complaints there.

I ordered this color scheme. (http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/images/kilot_tt_pro_gray_chrome_xi_2100.jpg) It looks great in person, to these eyes at least. The chrome plating over the lugs on the fork looks awesome, only up close can you tell it's just that, plating.

I ordered a 53. I'm about 5'7". I've been fitted on road bike and I ride 56 on those, but based on everything I've read about the Kilos, and after looking at the geo, I went with 53. I think it was a good choice. (Side note here: All those people I see who say they are 5'11" and and ride a 50, you are crazy. That doesn't make sense.)

Assembly was easy for me, but I do wonder how the people who have never worked on bikes fare. The front hub needed a minor adjustment, but other than that everything was well put together, I was kinda surprised. The headset was Cane Creek, NBD, but it was not listed on the website so I figured I would let people know. The Tektro brakes and levers are decent enough to sell at Frankenbike (the rear set at least, I'll keep the front brake set-up).

Now, this has to be known: the handlebars are pure turd. To put it nicely, they do not inspire confidence. They must be replaced. If you read this site a lot, you would think that most components blow up after a while based on the way people lust for "bombproof" materials, but I really do think this handlebar is liable to break at some point. Pure crap. The stem is nothing to write home about, I'm replacing it, but casual riders would be fine with it.

The Sugino cranks seem decent and I'm not in a hurry to replace them. The wheels are so-so, I'm not an expert on wheels, but I think I'll ride them for a while, no rush there to replace either.After all, partly why I chose BikesDirect is the to save money, it wouldn't make a ton of sense to upgrade these right away. The gold spoke nipples actually look great with the colors of the bikes, and are nice touch. This is coming from someone who hates bling.

The saddle is pure crap as well. I guess some people can get by on it for a few miles, but the thing is junk. Will replace immediately.

I haven't ridden the tires enough to give an impression. They don't seem great, but again, they might be serviceable for some people. I've got some gatorskins from a previous bike that I'm putting on today.

When I fully assembled the bike I was pleasantly surprised by how light it was was, as was my roommate who is a weight-weenie.

I rode a couple miles last night and 1) it was nice to be back on a fixed-gear and, 2) it was a pretty smooth ride, in that short time. Felt great actually. The fit is a little different than what I am used to, but it wasn't a bad thing.

In summary, I'm very happy with it it overall. I am replacing the saddle, handlebars, stem and tires. A few of these things I already have, so it's not a big deal for me. If you are a new rider though, I would probably recommend a budget fixie at your LBS. Here's why: I'm comfortable with assembling/working on bikes. Some of the components I didn't like I can easily replace. If you don't have parts laying around or a local swap-meet where you can get stuff cheap, it's probably not worth getting a Kilo, even the pro. The saddle and handlebars are that bad, and I've heard the cogs aren't great either. Once you replace those, you're getting close to the price of a bike at a shop.

For me though, I think I'm going to thoroughly enjoy this bike.

Will post pics in the future, sorry for such a long post without any pron in it. I will also give some more updates soon.

Nice review! Thanks.

Actually the cogs are perfectly fine IMO, they are the same as the Scrodcogs/Origin8 and are pretty high-quality. The lockring however, is usually generic and terrible (although at one point they were Dura-Ace, IIRC)

Actually the cogs are perfectly fine IMO, they are the same as the Scrodcogs/Origin8 and are pretty high-quality. The lockring however, is usually generic and terrible (although at one point they were Dura-Ace, IIRC)
Ah, ok. Dang just sold a lockring a few weeks ago...

Also, forgot to mention: I can't comment on the included pedals, I put my clipless on right away.

Actually the cogs are perfectly fine IMO, they are the same as the Scrodcogs/Origin8 and are pretty high-quality. The lockring however, is usually generic and terrible (although at one point they were Dura-Ace, IIRC)

They had Dura Ace lockrings stock on the Kilo??! Is there anything that bike can't do?

Nice review, what handlebars did you replace them with?

These. (http://www.dedaelementi.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_additional_images2.tpl&product_id=110&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=90&lang=en)
http://www.dedaelementi.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/RHM_01_4d59418def9d1.jpg

They are nothing special, and I'm not into track bars.

Nice review, that's the same color a friend of mine got.

Why do you say the handlebars are so bad? Just based on material?




(Side note here: All those people I see who say they are 5'11" and and ride a 50, you are crazy. That doesn't make sense.)



I ride a 50cm and I'm 5'11. I'm not crazy. My roadie is/was a 54 and was still a bit too long for me. I had to get a 20mm shorter stem when getting fitted correctly at my LBS. Competitive Cyclist sizing calculator also says 54cm. The 50cm Kilo is a 53cm c-t, so no I'm not crazy. Not everyone is proportioned the same. Note: Started out with a 56cm.

Nice review, that's the same color a friend of mine got.

Why do you say the handlebars are so bad? Just based on material?






I ride a 50cm and I'm 5'11. I'm not crazy. My roadie is/was a 54 and was still a bit too long for me. I had to get a 20mm shorter stem when getting fitted correctly at my LBS. Competitive Cyclist sizing calculator also says 54cm. The 50cm Kilo is a 53cm c-t, so no I'm not crazy. Not everyone is proportioned the same. Note: Started out with a 56cm.

Heh, I figured that would get some comments. I was kinda just kidding, it just shows you how different people fit and how their preferences vary. I'm just glad I seemingly gambled correctly on a 53.

As for the handlebars, I'll try to get a pic later, but they are made of a really cheap feeling aluminum with a weird shim on the center with a Sakae rip-off logo. Maybe I was overly harsh on it, but just based on my gut, they felt very cheap and I wouldn't want to ride them, and I'm not super picky on handlebars at all.

Heh, I figured that would get some comments. I was kinda just kidding, it just shows you how different people fit and how their preferences vary. I'm just glad I seemingly gambled correctly on a 53.

As for the handlebars, I'll try to get a pic later, but they are made of a really cheap feeling aluminum with a weird shim on the center with a Sakae rip-off logo. Maybe I was overly harsh on it, but just based on my gut, they felt very cheap and I wouldn't want to ride them, and I'm not super picky on handlebars at all.
No problem, It's early for me, so I couldn't smell the sarcasm :) The 53cm c-c is like a 56 c-t right? Must fit perfectly for you.

If that's the case with the bars, I may need to change mine out, haha. It'll give me an excuse to spend more money on this bike.

No problem, It's early for me, so I couldn't smell the sarcasm :) The 53cm c-c is like a 56 c-t right? Must fit perfectly for you.

If that's the case with the bars, I may need to change mine out, haha. It'll give me an excuse to spend more money on this bike.

Yeah, I eyeballed how the frame lined up with my Bianchi roadie, which fits like a glove and it was darn near identical.

If the bars work for you, don't worry about it. What really threw me off about them is when you take one of the levers off that is flush with the shim, you see the real handlebars. IDK, like I said, I just don't feel great about them.

I ride a 50cm and I'm 5'11. I'm not crazy. My roadie is/was a 54 and was still a bit too long for me. I had to get a 20mm shorter stem when getting fitted correctly at my LBS. Competitive Cyclist sizing calculator also says 54cm. The 50cm Kilo is a 53cm c-t, so no I'm not crazy. Not everyone is proportioned the same. Note: Started out with a 56cm.


Yeah, everyone is built different. Getting a bike fit at the LBS is a great investment - I wish I had done it years ago (would have saved me a lot of soreness that I thought was normal).

I am 5'10" and my cockpit length is 65cm. That length is the only thing that really matters when sizing a frame. I use the 53cm frame which has a 548 top tube length. A 55mm Top Tube + 100mm stem is ideal for my fit.

Yeah, everyone is built different. Getting a bike fit at the LBS is a great investment - I wish I had done it years ago (would have saved me a lot of soreness that I thought was normal).

I am 5'10" and my cockpit length is 65cm. That length is the only thing that really matters when sizing a frame. I use the 53cm frame which has a 548 top tube length. A 55mm Top Tube + 100mm stem is ideal for my fit.
Most definitely. Probably the best money I've ever put into my bike really. It was only a "basic fit" which was like $50 or so, but when I get another roadie, I'm probably going to do a real "pro fit" and get everything dialed in perfectly.

pix or it didn't happen

pix or it didn't happen
lol, I promise I will post some. Fair warning though, I don't take the artsy style pics, so don't get too excited...:D

Some pics:
213486

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-of7sqStwHus/TjwasZ_-coI/AAAAAAAACgE/PlHWDiYdbns/SNV32383.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xOEHHEk4pEg/TjwasxU854I/AAAAAAAACgI/-4r3Xj3V3s8/SNV32384.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Jnu4ROY5PhI/TjwatRbm1cI/AAAAAAAACgM/OLKuMnfucME/SNV32385.JPG

I'm not a great photographer, sorry.

I'm way Jelly. My friend has the same color/setup, and he just got his too.

I'm debating on stealing the M520's off my wrecked roadie myself. as well.

Update: Rode it around Austin all day, the fit and ride is awesome, did about 50 miles. Still riding the stock handlebars for now, not as bad as I thought, but I still don't like them. Stock tires held up well also. I haven't changed them yet because I need some 700x25 tubes.
GD, I love steel bikes.

Great review so far. I'm debating whether or not to get it for zipping around campus without getting it stolen before next year. http://i.imgur.com/NPQ7h.gif

"How are you going to go anywhere with that kind of mentality?"

I got my kilo today. First time I have ever rode fixed. Wow I banged my knee up twice and almost ejected by accident once. :) might switch the hub over tomorrow to free wheel. Fixed is scary when your so used to free.

Pedals suck. Hard to get feet in and the plastic clip is too weak.

My fit is weird. My back feels fine but my hands kill after awhile of riding on the top bars with hands in brakes. They feel better when my hands are in the drops. May raise my bar up since I'm too spacers down right now. I got a half inch raise left.

Fun bike thou. I love the handling.

That 9-page thread worth it? lol

lol^

don't wuss out and go singlespeed yet. and get some new clips/straps. those floppy rubber clips felt like such a piece of **** when I first had them that it's the only time I decided '**** it' and rode without foot retention (had a brake at the time, though still stupid looking back).

Your hands will adjust, your ass will adjust, your legs will adjust.

I'm noticing this grinding vibration feeling in my pedals or crank when I put hard down torque on my crank. Is there something that needs to be looked at on the bike when you first buy it within the bottom bracket.

I plan on getting mks gr9 pedals with steel mks clip. Need to figure out a good pair of double strap. Dunno what brand to buy.

I'm noticing this grinding vibration feeling in my pedals or crank when I put hard down torque on my crank. Is there something that needs to be looked at on the bike when you first buy it within the bottom bracket.

You may have your chain too tight. Try loosening it a bit and see if that makes a difference. Also make sure your chainring bolts are tight.

I'm noticing this grinding vibration feeling in my pedals or crank when I put hard down torque on my crank. Is there something that needs to be looked at on the bike when you first buy it within the bottom bracket.

I plan on getting mks gr9 pedals with steel mks clip. Need to figure out a good pair of double strap. Dunno what brand to buy.

When i had this problem it turned out to be ungreased pedal threads.

because I need some 700x25 tubes.

no

no
explain?

Update:

Still liking the bike, messing with the fit, moving the stem up and down.

Also, still rocking the stock tires as kind of an experiment to see how long they last. These things get a lot of hate, but I've got a couple hundred miles on them (blazing roadies along the way ;)), including some commuting on roads that will usually puncture non-reinforced tires. I guess maybe the they are not good for skidding? I don't skid. So far, so good.

Question: About when should I service the loose-bearing stock hubs?

explain?

What's to explain? You don't need 25c tubes. Most tubes cover a range of sizes and your stock tubes will work just fine.

What's to explain? You don't need 25c tubes. Most tubes cover a range of sizes and your stock tubes will work just fine.

I think what's missing is what I said in an earlier post: I'm going to put on 700x25 tires. The stock tubes are 700x23. If these will work on 25s, then I feel stupid.

I read your earlier post and as I just said, they will work just fine.

I read your earlier post and as I just said, they will work just fine.
Thanks, good to know. Feelin' like a newb again...

No prob, man. If you were going to a 28 or 32c tire you may have had issues but you'll have no trouble with 25s.

just for the record I have no problem with the tubes with 28s

I once put 23's in a 32 tire, 10 minutes after I filled it up it exploded

I once put 23's in a 32 tire, 10 minutes after I filled it up it exploded

I think that's a little overkill. 23s in a 25 or a 28 is ok, but that's pretty much it.

After a few weeks, I would also agree with a few posters that the stock gearing might be a little to high for beginners. If someone is getting a Kilo for putzing around town, they'd probably want another tooth in the back, especially if there are hills. If you already cycle a lot, you'll be fine though.

Also, I just looked at the tires up close, they are beginning to bald already, so we'll see how long my experiment lasts.

I put 23s in a 35, it really wasnt a big deal. Have any of you seen how much a tube can expand outside of the tire?

yeah man... 25c tube:
http://media.knoxnews.com/media/img/photos/2009/07/25/072609tubing_t607.jpg

I think that's a little overkill. 23s in a 25 or a 28 is ok, but that's pretty much it.

--edits--I put 23s in a 35, it really wasnt a big deal. Have any of you seen how much a tube can expand outside of the tire? I probably was pushing it, but I rode a whole semester like that before changing tires because my frame barely had clearance for the 35

--edits--I put 23s in a 35, it really wasnt a big deal. Have any of you seen how much a tube can expand outside of the tire? I probably was pushing it, but I rode a whole semester like that before changing tires because my frame barely had clearance for the 35

Really? Massive street cred.