Living Car Free - One Long Service Life Bike

I figured you guys would be the ones to ask this question:

If you could only have one bike in a resource-poor world that has to do you for the duration, how would you put it together?

I mean this as a serious question, not a "bike for a zombie apocalypse" type thing. I am looking at putting together one very long service life bike, the kind of thing that will get me around if something more realistic happens, like a depression that we never get out of.

My situation is that I am in a rural area about 5 miles from a small town, 15 miles from less-small towns. There are hills. It rains most of the winter.

These are the kinds of things I am considering:

Roads. Now they are fine, some chip seal. The future I am thinking of, chip seal will be the better roads, and some will revert to gravel.

Drivetrain. I assume front and rear derailleurs and regular shifters would not last long enough. Internal geared hubs? Fixed speed? How about a tried-and-true 3-speed?

Saddle. What could you put on that will last a long, long time?

Brakes. Disks seem too complicated but regular brakes wear out rims. Right?

Consumables. Some things just wear out. Brake bads, tires, tubes. How should that be kept to a minimum?

. . .

One strategy I suppose would be to have several bikes that could be scavenged from to keep at least one running. I am car-light and already have found it is maybe not a good idea to have only one functional bike.

The "one bike" I have now is a Raleigh M60 with 1.75" slicks and a rear basket. It's a good, fast bike that can also tow a trailer and handles off-road conditions just fine. I have others, but this is the one that I would expect to carry me through.

So what do you guys recommend for a single build for the long haul?

Something along the lines of the old Raleigh 3 speed. Fairly simple and durable. I have one that has something past 30,000 miles on it and it still ticking along. If the option is available I would go with roller or drum brakes, wear parts are minimal on those. Stock up on whatever tire size you need. FWIW I could get ~2 years (6,000 or so) miles of riding out of a set of tires if I was careful, but they were worn completely out at the end of that period. If you trash a tire you are going to want a spare ready to go. Right now off all the IGH hubs out there the old Sturmey Archer AW 3 speed is the most durable and still has a good parts availability. If it gets really bad we probably will all go back to single speeds and get off and walk up hills.

Aaron :)

Do you know something we don't know? . . . . lol . . . this is an interesting question.

I'd personally stay clear of anything with sealed bearings, open bearings can be almost perpetually regreased and ball bearings shouldn't be difficult to find if they do wear out.

I'd think you'd want to build a bike with whatever is the most common tire size? 26"?

I'd still want a rear derailleur equipped bike, I'd just choose something very durable (Cyclone GT?) and find spares.

Saddles could be kept covered and could last a long time.

Steel frame for durability and repairability. Steel can always be welded at any location by anybody with a welder.

Brake pads with a simple shape that could be carved out of old truck tires.

The Flying Pigeon PA-02 Classic.

http://flyingpigeonla.bigcartel.com/product/flying-pigeon-pa-02-mens-bicycle

I would take the money for one long service bike, and instead buy a bunch of used bikes, all with the smane wheel size and drive system.

For the conditions you describe, I would probably get 5 steel frame mountain bikes, without suspensions. Parts would be interchangeable, so you could keep them running for a long time.

I mean this as a serious question, not a "bike for a zombie apocalypse" type thing. I am looking at putting together one very long service life bike, the kind of thing that will get me around if something more realistic happens, like a depression that we never get out of.


IMHO you are approaching this from the wrong perspective. Instead of trying to build a bomb-proof bicycle, focus instead on putting it together from commonly available parts that are as durable as possible. Also put your attention on understanding the technology, so that when you do have a problem, you will be able to deal with it yourself... as much as possible.

Reason I mention this is that a bomb-proof bike in a situation where durability suddenly becomes important will be a target for theft.

Approach it not from the resource itself, just make yourself more resourceful. I think that's a better longterm strategy.

Reason I mention this is that a bomb-proof bike in a situation where durability suddenly becomes important will be a target for theft.

Check.

Add gun rack.

I know the OP said it wasn't a zombie apocalypse, but now I'm designing my bike for the Mad Max or War of The Worlds situation where you may be on the move all the time.

IMHO you are approaching this from the wrong perspective. Instead of trying to build a bomb-proof bicycle, focus instead on putting it together from commonly available parts that are as durable as possible. Also put your attention on understanding the technology, so that when you do have a problem, you will be able to deal with it yourself... as much as possible.

Reason I mention this is that a bomb-proof bike in a situation where durability suddenly becomes important will be a target for theft.

Approach it not from the resource itself, just make yourself more resourceful. I think that's a better longterm strategy.

You are articulating that better than I did.

That is the kind of thing I am getting at - anything is on the table, including multiple redundant copies of the same bike. And repair capabilities - absolutely.

I'm looking at this as a whole system, not just a single machine to ride.

Check.

Add gun rack.

I know the OP said it wasn't a zombie apocalypse, but now I'm designing my bike for the Mad Max or War of The Worlds situation where you may be on the move all the time.

Security is a legitimate concern. Imagine riding the ultimate, tricked-out uber-bike in drug-lord-controlled Mexico. Or some high-crime inner city. Bad idea. You could get killed for your bike.

One bike?

My answer is a 20 year old Specialized Hard Rock. No suspension, but street slicks, fenders, lights, toe clips, two water bottle holders, a rack, two Sunlite Grocery Getter panniers, a trailer hitch for a Bikes at Work trailer.

It's got the gears I need to get up any hill. It fits on a bus. It's comfortable for a 30 mile ride. I can ride it in almost any weather, 24/7.

I would get a steel frame cruiser bicycle with horizontal dropouts and no suspension. It would have wide forks and rear stays so that big or skinny tires would fit. The wheels would be bolted on and would be thirty-six spoke double walled for taking abuse. The size would be 26" for the varied tire widths that might be found years after the apocalypse.

I would go for a single speed coaster brake with a medium to small steel front sprocket. The top speed wouldn't be high but it would be easier to haul loads and pull trailers. I would prefer steel one piece cranks. You won't find light weight replacement crank arms in an apocalypse.

The single speed would also eliminate the need for replacement cables or being stuck in a high gear if the cable breaks. The chain would be a fat one.

There is such a thing as a kick back two speed hub. It works just as it sounds. It would have fewer parts than a three speed and have no cables, but it still would need more maintenance than a single speed.

The headset would be a cheap one because finding a Cane Creek would be difficult. The Wal-mart bikes are out there in the millions and would be a good source for replacement parts.

Tires would be heavy duty in a thin size between 1.5" and 1.75". Bigger ones would fit the frame if necessary. I would prefer an aggressive tread road tire to a MTB tire. It is just a personal preference. If I expected no chance of getting inner tubes I'd buy some flat proof inner tubes, the foam two pound types. They can't go flat ever. They do get hard after many years and need to be cut out, so I've been told.

The handlebars would be steel and so would the seat post. A Brooks saddle, though uncomfortable until broken in, or a Selle Italia with instant comfort, would be my seats of choice. They should last much longer than any padded foam vinyl seat.

Plastic fenders would be added for cleanliness.

I would want a front basket or rack mounted above the front wheel. It is easier to watch a load with those.

The pedals would be very big metal platforms with those set screws to give a good grip.

Handlebar grips that are hard plastic can last nearly forever. I'd try something like that. They were standard on all old Schwinn bicycles.

I would not have any lights on it even though a hub generator wouldn't ever wear out. Lights just add complexity.

I might add a bell just for style.

This bicycle would weigh over thirty-five pounds. That isn't so bad since it would be extra strong.

This bicycle is really not something I would want these days. I like the style but not the weight of the components. I prefer aluminum frames and other aluminum parts. I'm not necessarily a feather weight racing bicycle type. Practicality and comfort are more my style. One thing heavy that I do like is sprockets. Those cheap looking welded together steel triple cranks really do last a long time compared to light weight alloy sprockets.

So what do you think about this one? :)

So what do you think about this one? :)

Yes, that is the kind of thinking I'm after.

My old commuter is 38 lbs unloaded, mountain bike with 26" wheels. I've never found that to be much of a problem. It gives a great ride, only a few mph slower than my road bike.

If you could only have one bike in a resource-poor world that has to do you for the duration, how would you put it together?

I would put it together exactly like an old Schwinn Racer/Speedster. They are durable, dependable, and easily maintained by those with little technical knowledge.

Heavy? God yes! Before I put some alloy rims and other alloy bits on mine it weighed 40 lbs! That said, I did not need to replace a damn thing on the bike; it was still perfectly fine to ride, just heavy and slow to stop. I replaced parts only to make the bike lighter and stop faster, not because after 40 years (literally, mine was made in 71') of use anything really needed replacing.

I owned a red Schwinn Speedster single speed bicycle. It was slow to start but it cruised really well. I owned it before I really knew about bicycles and their numerous types. It was heavy. These days I wouldn't mind having something similar to it with much lighter parts and a multi-speed hub. The closest thing to that these days is a Breezer from http://www.Breezerbikes.com. They cost a fortune. If I ever really want to have such a ride again I'll wait until I can find a good frame and build one on my own.

I dunno, I am pretty happy with the Schwinn given the upgrades, that being new rims (Sun cr-18 iso 590), front hub, lighter stem, lighter fenders, lighter pedals, lighter saddle, and ect. I forgot. She weighs in at 35 lbs, but handles like a dream. I will grant that I already had many of the "upgrades" on hand so it cost me next to nothing to make the bike lighter. The main "expense" was the beer I bought to have a local bike mechanic teach me how to build up a wheel.

I changed out the 18t sprocket for a 22t and she does all I could ask of a daily commuter. I am even considering throwing on an aluminum crank just because I have one lying around and OPC bottom brackets kits for 3 pc cranks are relatively cheap. I do like the fact that I can service the bottom bracket with only a big wrench and a tube of boat trailer axle grease, so maybe not.

Before I bought this bike I was always a bit scared to work on bikes for fear I that I would hurt the bike. Not so with this thing. Best $25 I ever spent at a garage sale, for I am no longer scared to work on my own bikes.
It is a frankenbike for sure, but I have no doubt that the frame has at least another 40 years in her.

Maybe a poor mans Breezer? I am happy, so it matters not. If I can figure out how to post pictures, photos will follow.

I think if it comes to the end of the world as we know it, bikes are going to be in great demand and will be taken by force regardless of what they look like. Witness the riots in the UK, bike shops broken into, people run over by gangs so they could steal their bikes to use.

Aaron :)

This is a pretty fun thread that's about not-so-fun times but it's neat to brainstorm.

As far as survival bikes go, I hope my Big Dummy lasts forever....It's not tooooo heavy(46lb), carries a lot, works well off road, and is a nice drab green. I think it would do very well with your living situation of being a few miles out of town with hills in between.

Keep plenty of tires, tubes, brake pads, rims, spokes, grips, lubes, cogs/chainrings, and derailleurs on hand. Those wouldn't take up a ton of room. Also, bulk shop boxes of all the cables and housing on your bike would be nice....A lifetime supply. Brooks saddles last for decades if you treat them well.

I got a lil' over 11,000 miles out of a set of Specialized Armadillo Hemisphere tires. Have some Schwalbe Marathons right now that are doing well but I'm not sure they'll go as long as the Specialized tires.

There are a lot of good suggestions from everyone else!

S/S Schwinn Varsity....It will survive a direct hit.

Something along the lines of the old Raleigh 3 speed. Fairly simple and durable. I have one that has something past 30,000 miles on it and it still ticking along. If the option is available I would go with roller or drum brakes, wear parts are minimal on those. Stock up on whatever tire size you need. FWIW I could get ~2 years (6,000 or so) miles of riding out of a set of tires if I was careful, but they were worn completely out at the end of that period. If you trash a tire you are going to want a spare ready to go. Right now off all the IGH hubs out there the old Sturmey Archer AW 3 speed is the most durable and still has a good parts availability. If it gets really bad we probably will all go back to single speeds and get off and walk up hills.

Aaron :)

In India they are still building a version that looks for all the world like an old Raleigh 3 speed. It is a heavy sucker but it used a brake that works on the inside on the rear wheel rim more like an old car drum brake. It has those old rod brakes.

Bullet-proof Schwinn Varsity frame, 26" MTB tandem wheels w/3 speed SA hub, Polycarbonate fenders, Wald Cargo racks/baskets, bottle generator lights, an old sprung saddle, and lots of racer tape.
Worksman tire liners and "Slime" filled tubes in side any moderate lug tire. A good floor pump(made in USA).

In India they are still building a version that looks for all the world like an old Raleigh 3 speed. It is a heavy sucker but it used a brake that works on the inside on the rear wheel rim more like an old car drum brake. It has those old rod brakes.

Roadster...got one, I was thinking more along the lines of a Raleigh Sports which is lighter and has conventional rim brakes, coaster brakes or possibly drum brakes.

Aaron :)

I wouldn't get attached to anything too specific when building up a bike like this. Rather, I would look around and see what types of parts and general design principles have a nice balance of both abundance and reliability, i.e. steel frames, no suspension, 26" wheels, and to a lesser extent friction shifting, <7 speed freewheel drivetrains, Sturmey Archer AW3 (esp. the older model that was oil lubed), rim brakes do present a wear issue but they abound and are generally easy to adjust.

When it comes down to it, the best approach when designing something of this nature is to find what is available and go from there. These principles are largely what have driven my component choices on my current commuter bike - it is a steel, non-suspended mountain bike frame with touring braze-ons, set up with friction shifted 2x6 gears, fenders, and the ubiquitous Brooks saddle. If something goes wrong with it I can repair it with relatively common tools and methods.

An excellent philosophical (and practical) subject, thanks for bringing it up!

Cheers
lverhagen

Bullet-proof Schwinn Varsity frame, 26" MTB tandem wheels w/3 speed SA hub, Polycarbonate fenders, Wald Cargo racks/baskets, bottle generator lights, an old sprung saddle, and lots of racer tape.
Worksman tire liners and "Slime" filled tubes in side any moderate lug tire. A good floor pump(made in USA).

I agree that the Schwinn Varsity was one of the most bomb-proof bicycles ever sold in North America. However, it has some distinct disadvantages... its weight for example. Then you are going to add slime filled tubes...

My thinking is to find and keep a bike I like to ride and when the end of the world arrives, I'll just kiss my ass good-bye. Whoever is left around can have my bike for parts.

When you're building a bike to last, you want to get the best, most durable components you can find. You are not necessarily going for the most expensive parts. Instead, look for well-made parts which do not require finicky maintenance.

My choice of frame would be a mountain bike from the late 1980s. These bikes had no suspension systems and were built incredibly well. Restore that frame and the bike will last a long, long time. There is one drawback with the older frames. Some of the sizes which were standard 20 to 25 years ago are no longer standard today. For this reason, work slowly when rebuilding the bike. Take your time. You may have to visit a few pawn shops or second-hand shops to find bikes from which you can salvage parts you need.

For tires, go with the best, you can find. You will end up paying almost as much as you'd pay for a car tire, but the result will be a tire which can handle tough conditions and which will last many years. There are a few companies which make incredibly durable tires. You can also find tubes which don't flat easily.

Your point about regular brakes wearing out rims is correct, but rims wear out very slowly. It shouldn't be an issue unless you're doing a lot of fast riding where you also are riding the brakes.

For the drive train, I'd go with the standard mountain bike setup. A good quality derailleur system, if maintained, will last a long time. If it dies when you can no longer get replacement parts, you could strip out the derailleurs and make the bike a single speed. For a 21-speed bike, you can easily run the chain on the middle chainwheel and the middle sprocket. It's a cheap solution, but it works.

Frame: steel
Rims:steel
Hubs: SA AW 3 speed w/ drum brakes
wheels: 26 inch

Steel frames can be repaired with a torch and steel rims can be bent back into serviceable shape if they are damaged... not so with aluminium wheels.

Gears add some complexity but an SA Aw is a good compromise as it adds some range and is time tested and bulletproof.

Drum brakes have a very long service life.