Bicycle Mechanics - Need help replacing chain

I've had my bike for about a year now. So it was overdue for a chain change. I bought the chain from the bike store but declined having them put it on for two dollars. Its not that I thought two dollars was allot of money. Its just that I wanted to learn how to do stuff like that myself. Anyways.

I break the old chain. I spend hours trying to figure out how to thread the new chain through the rear derailler (and when I finely did figure it out, it was with help :o ) but now I got a new problem.

When I took off the old chain I carefully checked its length against the new chain. I did this several times to be sure counting link per link. So I removed three links from the new chain. But now the ends are mismatched. On both ends are wide links. What do I do? Did I possibly miscount the links? Should I take another link off the new chain so has matching ends? Might that make the chain a link too short?

Also I used a pair of cloth gloves to handle the chain (because that grease is so very hard to get off ones hands) big mistake. Now the new chain has little pieces of lint stuck to it in spots from the gloves. Should I wash the new chain or will those tiny pieces of lint make much of a difference?

Thank you ahead of time for any help :)

Yes remove the half link so the two ends will mate and don’t worry about the lint on the chain or about getting a little grease on your hands, you will never be able to work the chain tool with gloves on.

Learning to properly fit and connect a chain is something that is best learned by watching someone who is proficient at it. Things like just how much side pressure to apply to the chain after the pin is pressed in to eliminate kinking is very hard to explain in a written description.

When I took off the old chain I carefully checked its length against the new chain. I did this several times to be sure counting link per link. So I removed three links from the new chain. But now the ends are mismatched. On both ends are wide links. What do I do? Did I possibly miscount the links? Should I take another link off the new chain so has matching ends? Might that make the chain a link too short?

Also I used a pair of cloth gloves to handle the chain (because that grease is so very hard to get off ones hands) big mistake. Now the new chain has little pieces of lint stuck to it in spots from the gloves. Should I wash the new chain or will those tiny pieces of lint make much of a difference?

Thank you ahead of time for any help :)


Assuming you still have your old chain, lay it out on a table and place the new chain along side it. On the old chain, note the position of the wide and narrow end links - this will be the correct length. Adjust you new chain to match. Hopefully you don't have to add a link.

I wouldn't worry about the lint in the chain.

Go Jo gets rid of grease like no other

Won't that make the chain a link too short though? Or is it not quite that sensitive that a link would make a difference?

I don't have the old chain. I started working on this last night but got sudden inexplicable and very painful heartburn. So I figured I would finish it tomorrow. I threw the old chain in the dumpster as it was coated with a years worth of oily silt (it was pretty nasty) and had checked the length link per link 4 or more times before tossing it. Just a moment ago I tossed some items around in the dumpster hoping to spot it. I didn't and I really don't want to "dumpster dive"

This is hard to describe in writing. A single chain link consists of the outer plates and the inner narrower portion. I think you cut the chain at a half link. You could remove 1/2 link from either end and rejoin the chain. This will make your chain 1/2 shorter than it was before. It probably won't matter unless your old chain was cut to the limit that your derralieur can handle. Just make sure next time that one end of the chain is wide, and the other end is narrow. Also never push the pin out all the way. The links that you joined together will be stiff. Before you ride, loosen them by working the stiff areas sideways back and forth ( more grease for your gloves). It's best to have someone show you or to get a good bike mechanic book like the one by Lennard Zinn. The other replies are correct though and lint won't hurt the chain.

Never push what pins all the way out?

Is it really as difficult/sensitive to insert a pin/connect a chain as worldwind suggests?

As long as I'm cautious and remove and check pin position every bit of turn near the end I should be fine right? If I were to accidental push the pin a little too far out the other side, would it be fine to simply push it back the other way or would the pin be ruined and create a lose fit?

Never push what pins all the way out? Good advice.

Is it really as difficult/sensitive to insert a pin/connect a chain as worldwind suggests? Yes.

As long as I'm cautious and remove and check pin position every bit of turn near the end I should be fine right? If I were to accidental push the pin a little too far out the other side, would it be fine to simply push it back the other way or would the pin be ruined and create a lose fit?


Hey, if you want to push it all the way out, go right ahead. You will find out, in time, that Hobbes is right on. Personally, I have never seen a loose fit after re-installing a pin. Anyone????

In fact, what you usually end up with is a slightly stiff link and you actually need to bend the chain (gently now) to get the alignment correct and make the link behave as it should. Just curl the fingers of both hands over the chain and push very gently with your thumbs (imagine trying to break a pencil, but much easier). Just flex it a little and you'll usually get it right away. Once you've done one, it'll be just like riding a bicycle ;-)

I've had my bike for about a year now. So it was overdue for a chain change. I bought the chain from the bike store but declined having them put it on for two dollars. Its not that I thought two dollars was allot of money. Its just that I wanted to learn how to do stuff like that myself. Anyways.

I break the old chain. I spend hours trying to figure out how to thread the new chain through the rear derailler (and when I finely did figure it out, it was with help :o ) but now I got a new problem.

When I took off the old chain I carefully checked its length against the new chain. I did this several times to be sure counting link per link. So I removed three links from the new chain. But now the ends are mismatched. On both ends are wide links. What do I do? Did I possibly miscount the links? Should I take another link off the new chain so has matching ends? Might that make the chain a link too short?

Also I used a pair of cloth gloves to handle the chain (because that grease is so very hard to get off ones hands) big mistake. Now the new chain has little pieces of lint stuck to it in spots from the gloves. Should I wash the new chain or will those tiny pieces of lint make much of a difference?

Thank you ahead of time for any help :)Why don't you cut thru all this garbage and nonsense and check the repair section at www.parktool.com

@sydney Thanks, I had found that site before though, I still had some questions after reading it though which is why I posted here.

@Cascade
Beyond everything else you didn't even answer my question, which was which pin are you even talking about?!?


Some chains, including Shimano®, use chain rivets which are peened. This creates a "mushroom" effect at the ends of the rivets, which adds to the strength of the chain side plates. When a rivet is pressed even partially out, this peening is sheered off on the side pressed by the chain tool. If this rivet were reused, it would create a weak link at that rivet.
See Cascade!?

@ everyone
If I accidentally push the pin/rivet too far so that it comes out the other end, will that have sheared off the preen or can I reverse the tool and push it the other way so its lined up right?

Also, my chain came with a pin partially out. The instructions at parkers tool (http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQchnRe.shtml)seem to suggest that I put the replacement guided pin that came with my chain through that spot forcing out the pin halfway out. A guy at the bike shop said it would be alright to use that pin partially out for the chain joining. What do you guys think? Is it there just as a guide of some sort or can it actually be used so that I can save the separate pin that came with it for if I ever need to break and rejoin in the future?

@sydney Thanks, I had found that site before though, I still had some questions after reading it though which is why I posted here.

@Cascade
Beyond everything else you didn't even answer my question, which was which pin are you even talking about?!?


See Cascade!?

@ everyone
If I accidentally push the pin/rivet too far so that it comes out the other end, will that have sheared off the preen or can I reverse the tool and push it the other way so its lined up right?

Also, my chain came with a pin partially out. The instructions at parkers tool (http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQchnRe.shtml)seem to suggest that I put the replacement guided pin that came with my chain through that spot forcing out the pin halfway out. A guy at the bike shop said it would be alright to use that pin partially out for the chain joining. What do you guys think? Is it there just as a guide of some sort or can it actually be used so that I can save the separate pin that came with it for if I ever need to break and rejoin in the future?It's hell getting a pushed pin back in a chain. I wouldn't do it or mess with trying to do it.Duno what chain you have. Shimano says to use the special replacement pins for connecting the chain. A new chain should have come with them if required. A Sram chain is less hassle as it comes with a no tool connecting link that can be easily removed. A sram 9 speed link can be used on a shimano 9 speed chain. A big part of doing this stuff involves doing it RIGHT. Chains are simple things,yet people do all kinds of dumb things to them and then gripe when they fail.

I have a shimano IG51.

Should I use the unpushed factory set pin already partially in the chain or the special replacement pin that comes with guide that came separately wrapped with chain? I'm worried that if I try to use the partially pushed in pin, without the guider its peen might be sheared off. But that pin must have some purpose and I can't figure it out via the limited instructions that came with the chain.

You should have paid the $2.00 and asked the guy to observe when he/she replaced the chain! Even offer a tip...

Pedal On,

Bob Light

The reason you have the pin protruding from your new chain is to joing the ends of the chain together.

Doc

Actually you should clean that "grease" off the chain before it even goes on the bike. That stuff is Cosmoline and is like glue for dirt... it just a shipping/packing protectant they use in VW's, Guns, and apparently, bike chains.

I have a shimano IG51.

Should I use the unpushed factory set pin already partially in the chain or the special replacement pin that comes with guide that came separately wrapped with chain? I'm worried that if I try to use the partially pushed in pin, without the guider its peen might be sheared off. But that pin must have some purpose and I can't figure it out via the limited instructions that came with the chain.

Use a real chain made by Sram.

The reason you have the pin protruding from your new chain is to joing the ends of the chain together.

Doc

Well then whats the guided pin that came with it but separately packed for then? Backup? Why doesn't the protruding pin come with a guide as well?
.

Actually you should clean that "grease" off the chain before it even goes on the bike. That stuff is Cosmoline and is like glue for dirt... it just a shipping/packing protectant they use in VW's, Guns, and apparently, bike chains.

How would you recommend washing off that grease?
.

It's hell getting a pushed pin back in a chain. I wouldn't do it or mess with trying to do it.

You mean if I were to accidentally push the pin in too far so it slightly protrudes from the other side I should just get it all the way out and throw it away? Perhaps the chain as well? (since the chain holes could have been damaged?)

I'm with spending two bucks and not worrying whether your experiment worked everytime you jump on the bike. I have just done my first three chains, but I did the reasearch on parktools/Sheldon Brown etc and read the instructions that came with the new chains. Once you get how it works, it is easy.
Key thing is - do not re-use link pins, always use a fresh one, and never break and relink where it has been relinked previously. Be careful not to push it through too far.

I do thank you guys for your assistance thus far but this is getting very frusterating. No clear answers to my last questions and no matter how hard I search shimanos webpage I can't find a email for them so its kinda hard to ask them.

I started working on this last night but got sudden inexplicable and very painful heartburn.

How old are you? Physical condition? I would consider seeing a doctor once you have the chain issue worked out, just in case.

Cheers...Gary

How old are you? Physical condition? I would consider seeing a doctor once you have the chain issue worked out, just in case.

Cheers...GaryI think he needs to get help before he messes with that chain any more.

I do thank you guys for your assistance thus far but this is getting very frusterating. No clear answers to my last questions and no matter how hard I search shimanos webpage I can't find a email for them so its kinda hard to ask them.


When you get a new chain it is almost always longer than you need it to be.
A new chain may have a “unpushed factory set pin” at one end. Don’t take links from this end. Measure your old chain (count links) and push out a pin at the other end that corresponds to the proper link on the new chain exactly as far as the factory set pin on the other end is. Now remove the unwanted links by slightly bending the chain sideways with the protruding pin to the inside of the arc until the section pops out.

The loose pin is a spare put it in your patch kit so you don’t loose it.

I don’t recommend washing off the grease it will come off buy itself just clean and re-lube after your next ride.

You wont push the pin in to far because you will take the removed section of chain that you removed when you measured your old chain and you will practice taking it apart and re attaching links until you can do it properly every time.

When you have become proficient at this you will have learned two things. How far to push out a pin so you can just remove the link and still have enough left inserted to hold the other end of the chain in place against the pull of the derailleur cage when you install it. And you will know just how far to press the pin in to get a good set that doesn’t bind the links.

Now you can put your new chain on your bike.

If you make a mistake on a chain that specifies not to reuse pins and you believe them, just remove that link. Having a slightly shorter chain is no big deal. It only becomes an issue when the chain is too short to get on the big ring and the biggest cog.



Hobbes don’t let this get to you, all you need is some good info and some practice.

I was just like you when I started out with bikes. Driven to do it the exact right way I was frustrated by the experienced wrenches cavalier attitude and their unwillingness to explain every last iota of detail about why a certain task was done a certain way. There is a lot of history and tradition in the world of bike wrenching, and a lot of years of refining methods to achieve the best and quickest.

Seek out a mentor that you can trust and become the vessel by which he can pass on this knowledge.

A new chain will have a “unpushed factory set pin” at one end. Don’t take links from this end. None of my DA or ultegra chains do, and In fact I don't recall any new chain I ever got that did.

None of my DA or ultegra chains do, and In fact I don't recall any new chain I ever got that did.



Look at the end of the new chain, top of picture.
http://a1072.g.akamai.net/f/1072/2062/1d/gallery.rei.com//largeimages/611775.jpg

Look at the end of the new chain, top of picture.
http://a1072.g.akamai.net/f/1072/2062/1d/gallery.rei.com//largeimages/611775.jpgAnd I have 7 shimanos, 5 Srams and 2 campys that don't. So, obiously,they ALL don't.

Well then whats the guided pin that came with it but separately packed for then? Backup? Why doesn't the protruding pin come with a guide as well?
.


The protruding pin does not need a guide. it's already started in the chain.

And I have 7 shimanos, 5 Srams and 2 campys that don't. So, obiously,they ALL don't.


But he didn’t ask about YOUR chains did he..

But he didn’t ask about YOUR chains did he..You said ALL chains come with a pin like that. Obviously they don't.

I had already dissected the spare end of the chain and tried to put it back together. I did it wrong (like breaking it at the half links) so that it fell apart and learned much less then I should have. I guess I need to find some way to get my bike to the bike shop and have them do it and do it myself next time.

Thank you very kindly for your help worldwind and the rest of you as well :)
I'm sorry about how impatient I might have sounded in that last post. :o I use my bike for all my getting around and without it I've been feeling kind of trapped.

Man, this looks like the most complicated chain I've ever heard about. The ones I deal with are much simpler, I'm sure. None ever gave me a heartburn either.

Unless... Is there a tool like a parker tool that simply won't allow you to push the pin in too far?

This is hard to describe in writing. A single chain link consists of the outer plates and the inner narrower portion. A link is 1/2" long: wide or narrow, your choice. A new sram chain is 116 links and is 58" long. You can do the math.

Unless... Is there a tool like a parker tool that simply won't allow you to push the pin in too far?My park tool is made not to push the pins all the way. In order use proper replacement pins or removable links the pin has to come all the way out. There are longer replacement push pins for the park tool.

Using your chain tool
http://www.bikeutopia.com/images/Park_Chain_Tool.jpg
Make the two ends of your chain look like the two ends in the picture in my above post.

One end has inside links and no pin, the other end has outside links with a pin partly pressed out. There should be about 1/64 of an inch of the pin protruding to the inside of one of the end links. If you push it too far reposition the chain tool the other way and push the link back a bit, go slow, a little bit at a time. Use the anvil (divider wall) in the tool to support the link.

When reconnecting the links (on the bike) snap the links together so the protruding pin on the outer link end holds the inner link in place. Place the chain tool and just press the pin until it is even on both sides. Again go very slowly and if you go to far push back from the other side. Now take the chain and check for binding at the assembled point. If there is, apply a little side pressure at that point from one side and then the other. Check again for binding.

The picture in your post won't show for me.

If you push it too far reposition the chain tool the other way and push the link back a bit


Again go very slowly and if you go to far push back from the other side.

I thought you were saying earlier that if I pushed the pin a little too far then I needed to throw that link/pin away. So pushing the pin a little too far out the other side wouldn't shear off its peen/damage the hole/require discarding of the pin? I can safely just push it back in from the other side?

If you push the pin all the way out then discard it and try again on the next pin.

If you get a red x then right click on it and select show picture, if that doesn’t work, select properties and cut and paste the address (url) into your browsers address bar.

Yes you can.

If you push the pin all the way out then discard it and try again on the next pin.

Or use the replacement pin that came with the chain, ratrher than possibly making the chain too short.

Ok, I rejoined the chain. I tried to make the pin protrude on each side of the chain as evenly as possible. Which meant moving it back and forth a few times, each move being smaller then the previous, even though at all times both sides of the outer plates were engaged by the pin.

But now that I have it in I have discovered I fed the chain through wrong and its on the outside of a guardrail its suppose to be inside of so that it rubs against the guard rail.

Do you guys think it would be alright to use the same link with my spare pin? Does it matter which side I push out the previous pin on?

Depending on how its laced wrong you may be able to just remove the outer cage bar from the derailleur, otherwise....

Just open the chain at another location, re-thread the chain through the derailleur cage and re-connect, this time push the pin exactly to the proper position without going back and forth. Use very small turns of the threads on your chain tool when you get close.

I know how afraid of the bike Calvin is but that should not affect your ability to master this task.

While waiting for a reply I called the bike shop, they said that reusing the spot would be fine so I did. The back and forth was much smaller and limited this time, please note though, I am a bit of a perfectionist and I'm talking about a very very slight back and forth movement that I might not even have needed to do.

So far it seems fine, could it break anyways or should it be alright?

Waiting for a reply I called the bike shop, they said that reusing the spot would be fine so I did.(the back and forth was much smaller and limited this time) So far it seems fine, could it break anyways or should it be alright?A chain shouldn't be broken twice at the same spot.That's basically what you did.

No, the chain was only broken once at that spot, twice connected there though. So you think this might be a problem/danger? Reason enough to buy a new pin and discard a link?

No, the chain was only broken once at that spot, twice connected there though. So you think this might be a problem/danger? Reason enough to buy a new pin and discard a link?It was broken as part of the original manufacturing process. Chain is made in mega lengths and then cut(broken) into length for packaging.

Don't wory about it ...... go ride, have fun.

Thanks again for your help everyone. :) Especially worldwind.