Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling - A long ride on a bike not made specifically for distance

So have any of you rode long distances on a bike that was not made specifically for super long rides? Think English 3 speeds, beach cruisers, mountain bikes, ect.

This summer I rode a single speed beach cruiser 80 miles over rolling hills, not truly long distance, but sure felt like it at the end of the day. If you have any experiences please share them.

Am I crazy to take my Raleigh 3 speed on the Bike Across Kansas next year? Surely someone on the RAGBRAI has done it on an old 3 speed.

I've done some longer rides on a folding bike that was really meant for short trips. It wasn't too bad, since most of those times I was stopping a lot.

If the route is flat, you plan to stop a lot, you're not in a rush, mechanically the bike is in top shape, and you're certain you can tolerate a week in that position, it might work. It sounds like this ride has SAG support and in the worst case scenario you can bail.

Since the next BAK is next year, you could always take the 3 speed out for a weekend and see how it goes.

I rode a MTB 3000 miles a few years ago, on a bike tour. There's a guy who rides a schwinn stingray on bike tour of colorado every year....

2200 miles NM to FL

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh187/10wheels/Fred%20Tipps/FredTipps.jpg

I rode my track bike 130 miles once. It was a little hilly, not a lot. Some of the steep hills put a strain on my lower back. I don't recommend it. I'm sure there are others that have done more.

I did a super randonneur series on a mountain bike. If the bike fits you and you can get comfortable, then you can do it. In the case of a Raleigh 3-speed, I'd be really worried if there were a lot of hills. I have an old Superbe, and the low gear is not all that helpful for climbing.

I did my first 5 centuries and first 200k on a Worksman single speed cruiser.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z172/stephenhazelton/DuvalDelta/3879Proc.jpg

I've done about 5 centuries, 2 200ks, and a handful of 100k rides on my commuter. It's got a nice bailout gear, so the hills don't own me.

Key is getting your fit dialed in (a bike fit can help). Anywhere you have pain, figure out what's causing it, and adjust as necessary. My last century was pain-free. My first few? Not so much.

People have done rides like RAGBRAI and Bike Across Kansas on everything from a Penny Farthing to Walmart bikes to whatever you can imagine. Doing one of those rides on a Raleigh 3 speed should be no problem. As long as you can ride 60-70 miles in 12hrs you should be fine. ;)

See this thread ... http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/751668-Anyone-Raono-on-a-MTB

I did my first 200K on a heavy department store mtn bike.

My first century (actually it turned out to be a double metric after a wrong turn adventure) was done on a MTB that retailed for $150.

If I was to go distance on a Raleigh Sports I'd wrap the bars from levers to stem. I'd probably consider getting a longer than stock stem, maybe even swap the bars for mustache bars or something of the sort.

Absolutely crucial is the proper saddle for your butt.

I'd probably ditch the fenders for the ride also.

Alright, then I will ride the crap out of the old Raleigh until I get everything dialed in. The reason I want to use this bike is because it does not hurt me to ride it longer distances and it is currently my lightest bike :o. I have problems with my wrists where if I put much pressure on them it really hurts

I think I can easily ride 60-70 miles in 12 hrs so I might be fit enough right now. I don't know how well I would handle doing these distances over many days. I average 15 mph on 30 mile rides on my 48# 3 speed beach cruiser over hilly terrain. I don't know if that is a good gauge or not for my current fitness. I do know the Raleigh weighs in at a mere 35# and I feel like I have wings if I have been riding the cruiser a lot like I have been this summer.

More time riding will only improve the situation, I know nothing beats time in the saddle. I am obviously not looking to be the guy at the front of the pack or even the the middle. I have always wanted to do this ride and would be happy to just finish.

I did my first 5 centuries and first 200k on a Worksman single speed cruiser.

That's incredible! Where did you ride?

63 Miles is my longest distance on my hybrid. I've gone to 700 X 25 tires and turn off the shock on the front fork. Saddle is great, but get numb in my hands after 5 miles. Bar ends and gel gloves have done nothing to alleviate it, and I think its due more to my previously diagnosed but untreated carpal tunnel syndrome. Shake my hands out every so often and the come back for a while. 40 seemed easy last weekend on this bike. Drooling for a new road bike to add more miles next season.

my hands get numb in 5 miles on straight bars, and I've heard this is not uncommon. I have to remember to move my hands around on my 10 mile commute when I ride my straight bar commuter.

With drop bars, I have very few problems. I didn't notice it on the ride, but I'm still suffering a very mild neuroma in my left hand from PBP. I should probably do something about it.

I did 115 miles on a Schwinn OCC chopper. Built it with an 8-speed hub.
http://hphotos-snc1.fbcdn.net/hs280.snc1/10716_1232037716988_1110486501_30718448_2812704_n.jpg
As long as you have the right seat and fit, you can ride almost anything.

Hey, unterhausen,

Interesting, I have the same numbness problem with straight bars. And also have some residual numbness in my left-hand from PBP. Hope it goes away, soon, but history (BMB '06, PBP '07, a 1000Km last year) suggests I won't get full feeling back until about January.

Nick

Nick, after I posted above, I told myself to go take some fish oil and Ibuprofen, but of course I forgot. I have had neuromas respond to fish oil before, but of course there is no way to know for sure that the fish oil contributed. They do seem to get better all on their own.

I got the numb hand thing once on a 1200k. It went away after quite a while. I haven't had any hand problems since I started riding with my forearms on the tops of the bars. In an aerobar type position.

Before I knew anything about decent bikes, I did several metric centuries on a Target Huffy MTB.:D....I'm spolied now.:p

I got the numb hand thing once on a 1200k. It went away after quite a while. I haven't had any hand problems since I started riding with my forearms on the tops of the bars. In an aerobar type position.
that hurts just to think about. Do you have anything special on there to keep your forearms from being compressed?

I started my life filled with "long distance riding" by pedaling away to my grandparents home. The trip was 52 miles - and I completed it in four hours and thirty minutes at the age of fourteen. The bicycle pictured below was purchased with my paper-route money - from a mail order outlet at the heft price of thirty one dollars.

219817This is me - posing at the finish line -several hours after arriving.

you guys are truly cyclist from all aspect of it.

i'm amazed!

I recently completed the 100k D2R2 ride on an old Raleigh M-80. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Pics are on my blog.

I've done 8 half centuries, 2 metrics, and 1 century on my 1995 GT mountain bike. Tomorrow I plan on doing a 70 miler. Hoping to do at least another metric after that before the season ends.

Want to get a road bike but I'm fearful that it may be very uncomfortable at my current... uh... girth.

Hey, unterhausen,

Interesting, I have the same numbness problem with straight bars. And also have some residual numbness in my left-hand from PBP. Hope it goes away, soon, but history (BMB '06, PBP '07, a 1000Km last year) suggests I won't get full feeling back until about January.

Nick

I got a pair of cheap bar ends, origin8, they were like $20. Gives me 2 extra hand positions, and no more numbness.

that hurts just to think about. Do you have anything special on there to keep your forearms from being compressed?

I use flat top bars and some extra padding. Works great. I can ride forever like that.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd35/Homey-B/Cascade12002005126.jpg

I can ride forever like that.

Well it's darn nice of you to stop every so often to post a pic or two!:D

I rode my 1st century in July on a fixed gear commuter I built up ~3 yrs ago. I rode my 2nd today on the same bike but w/ a 9 spd hub (1x9 setup). I think I only need 7 gears, but no more single-speeding if I intend to ride w/ other people.

Well it's darn nice of you to stop every so often to post a pic or two!:D

I don't usually carry a camera and when I do I always forget to take it out and use it so I have to rely on the advanced picture taking skills of people like you Mr. Beanz. :)

i don't wanna hijack the thread, but what exactly "qualifies" a bike as having been made specifically for distance - outside of lighter materials and the like?

i'm actually trying to decide on a bike. i ride a folding my now.

i don't wanna hijack the thread, but what exactly "qualifies" a bike as having been made specifically for distance - outside of lighter materials and the like?

i'm actually trying to decide on a bike. i ride a folding my now.

I'm not a distance rider. But, I've done research for several months to build up a touring bike. I think some people would choose Shimano Deore or Tiagra as the minimum for longer distances (the derailleurs don't need to be adjusted as often), at least for the hubs. I mean I've read comments from people saying Shimano Acera, Alivio, 2200/2300 and Sora (shifters/derailleurs) are acceptable but in general, from what I read, Deore/Tiagra can do significantly better in difficult conditions. Then going to SLX/LX, XT and 105 might be still better but just another incremental improvement. However, some people insist on XT or 105 hubs. (And people doing 12 foot drops insist on XT cranks but who wants to jump 12 feet with a bicycle? heheh)

I find the Acera, 2200/2300 comments encouraging for people who don't have a lot of money. I mean there are bikes out there with more reasonable prices. I found however, that the ones without suspension forks and disk brakes (in other words the ones with rigid forks and V-brakes) are often the ones available at better prices with Acera or 2200 or 2300. The ones with disk brakes and suspension forks sometimes have Altus or even Tourney rear derailleurs at the same price. Kind of weird but I guess if you put money in one part I guess it has to come from somewhere so I guess in that case it's the other parts quality that get sacrificed.

i don't wanna hijack the thread, but what exactly "qualifies" a bike as having been made specifically for distance - outside of lighter materials and the like?

i'm actually trying to decide on a bike. i ride a folding my now.

There is no such beast. I would say that the most important qualifiers for a long distance bike are:
1. That it fits.
2. That it's comfortable
3. That it meats the demands that you require of it for the conditions you will be riding in.

Other than that, just about anything will do.
Pretty simple...;)

There is no such beast. I would say that the most important qualifiers for a long distance bike are:
1. That it fits.
2. That it's comfortable
3. That it meats the demands that you require of it for the conditions you will be riding in.


Yep. Though most of my centuries are on a Roubaix, I occasionally ride one on my MTB or hyrbid commuter (both with treadless road tires) if the Roubaix is down or the weather is sloppy. My flatbar MTB and hybrid are a size larger than my Roubaix and use longer stems. The net result is that the BB-seat-handgrip triangle is identical on the three, so there is no variation in fit. Most importantly, all three have a Brooks B-17, so comfort's not an issue either.

So, yes, you can ride long and far on many styles. It's even easier after adapting them to your preferred fit.

thanks all...

is there a collection of pictures of the guy who rides PBP each time on an inappropriate bike? I just saw a video of the guy who rode PBP on a kick bike last time, that is just amazing.

that's a video I need to see

Drew Buck is the person that rides unique bikes on PBP. This year he rode an ancient 3 speed. I'm trying to find the kickbike video, but here is a video of Drew Buck on his Hirondelle from 2007

Machka has a picture of the kick bike hidden away on her site: http://www.machka.net/pbp/pbp/kickbike.jpg


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZIwFBCaVmE

I rode with that guy for a little while in 03. He was a cross country skier and used the kick bike for training. I think the powers that be banned kick bikes after that.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd35/Homey-B/pbp2003233.jpg

That's great... thanks for posting.

I rode with that guy for a little while in 03. He was a cross country skier and used the kick bike for training. I think the powers that be banned kick bikes after that.yes, they specifically banned those bikes. I am among the people that question that decision, but it probably has no practical effect. It is pretty impressive to be able to ride one of those for 750 miles.

I've completed long rides -- at least 200K -- on:
1. A cyclocross bike, set up for cyclocross.
2. A Giant TCR. This bike did 3, 1200Ks. I've podiumed in road races on the same bike, set up the same way.
3. An aluminum fixed-gear bike. Frame cost $189, new. This bike has also done 3, 1200Ks.
4. A hard-tail mountain bike, with knobby tires.
5. Same mountain bike with slicks. A lot easier than the knobbies.
6. A Cannondale tandem. Stiff, stiff, stiff! But oh so much fun....

I've got a 200K coming up in a month that I'm going to run on a track bike with a rear disc.

Not one of these bikes was made specifically for distance. Heck, I've had (well-meaning, but extremely obnoxious and self-righteous) fellow riders lecture me -- to my face -- about how "inappropriate" my bicycles were for randonneuring. I think those people are just insecure about having dropped $10K on a beautiful custom bike that looks like it comes right out of Bicycle Quarterly. Nothing wrong with that, if it gives you pleasure. But don't think for a second you "need" all that stuff to do long rides, or that you'll necessarily be any more successful or have any more fun on a bike that's "made for" long rides.

As long as the bike fits, you're comfortable on it, and you've managed your expectations appropriately (you're not going to set a speed record on a mountain bike, and you might just destroy a $7K pursuit bike if you hit a pothole), any bike will do.

Is there a $10k bike that looks like it came out of BQ????

apparently you haven't priced a custom steel frame from one of the top builders recently. Most people don't talk about their $10k rando bikes though

No I haven't, that's why I asked. :) Doesn't surprise me though.

when asked how much a bike would cost, one of the top builders said, "I only discuss that with my customers"

Custom Rivendell frameset: $3500.
Mid-range groupset: $1000.
Wheelset: $1000 (Peter White, 650B 36/36 synergy/oc rims, SON generator, phil wood rear hub)
Bars,Stem, seat post, spacers: ~$1000
Tires/Tubes: ~$200 (including 1 spare each)
Front Rack + Bag: $300
Pump, Tools, Bottles & Cages: ~200
Fenders: $150
Lighting Kit: ~$500 (2xSupernova E3s, 1xSupernova seatpost taillight)

OK, so I'm over $8k, and spending wildly. I can't seem to find the other $2k for what would be commonly be considered a BQ-style 'Rando' bike.

add $2k to your frame price. A rando bag is $200-300, and most framebuilders charge at least $250 for a front rack, and I'm sure the top guys charge much more for a decaleur/rack combo. Add in a few customized parts, and you are at $10k easily.

Obviously, you can get adequate substitutes for significantly less, that's not what we are talking about

I can't see how even a custom steel frame would cost even $3500 to make. Even with the price of metals nowdays. The technology and know-how has been around for years so all you are paying for is craftsmanship. I have no problem spending money on fine craftsmanship so you won't hear any complaints from me.

a high-end frame costs me about $900 out of pocket to make and have painted, before any labor charges. Typical business principles say that a business that wants to stay in business long-term should charge at least $4500 for that frame. But there are only a few builders that are really in a position to charge reasonable prices for frames. There are a lot of builders clustered around $2500. I figure anyone charging less than that is eventually going to have severe cash-flow issues.