Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - LBS kind of killed my dream today.... (320 pound rider)

Been riding a Specialized Expedition for a few years (fitness and commuting). I want to upgrade to a more road oriented fitness bike. I started at nearly 400 lbs and now down to 320ish.

I had been looking at the:

2011 Giant Rapid 3 (http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/rapid.3/7298/44052/)

and

Trek FX 7.3 (http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/fitness/fx/7_3_fx/#) (link provided in case you live under a rock :) )

Giant LBS guy says (in a nice way) I have no business on the Giant. it is made for 250 lbs or less. Recommended I go with the Giant Escape instead. Says it is sturdier and 700x32 are gonna handle weight better than 700x28 of Rapid.
TREK LBS guy looks real nervous when I tell him might weight, but says it probably would be ok.

My current bike feels strong enough but I am breaking a lot of rear spokes lately at 320 (but none for 2 years at 400 and lower weight) and I want to move to skinnier tires and faster speeds.

What do you guys think? Is LBS guy 1 being to cautious or is LBS guy 2 wanting to make the sale?

I think it's worth paying attention when somebody tells you not to buy something they're selling. That said, I can't see how the frame itself is going to be a problem. My frame doesn't have a weight limit. It's the wheels you need to keep an eye on.

I weigh a lot less than you, but I ride 23s, and was riding them when I was heavier. You need to put more air in them than other people do, but...

You're probably breaking spokes now because they've been straining over the past couple years, and are finally on their death beds. A stronger wheel is the best fix, no matter which bike you wind up on.

My 2c - go with another LBS.

Last year, at 318lbs my LBS assured me an all-carbon Roubaix would hold me fine - and it has. Thats after 3k miles and not a single spoke broken...first bike Ive actually worn tires out on :)

P.S. I also ride a Trek Fx 7.3 -Im currently 285lbs.

I'd say first get yourself some good custom wheels built for you that you'll put on any bike you ride no matter what it is. Multiple spokes breaking says it's time for a wheel rebuild/new wheel.

I had no problems on my 7300FX at that weight. No sure if there are any major differences between the two models though.

I agree, the rear wheel will be the issue. Use the stock wheel till it croaks. Have the shop retension the spokes after 200 miles. Do not take no for an answer, do not settle for a simple true of the wheel. The spoke tension is the key to making the wheel last longer after a short break in period. If you wait too long or don't do so, then it's your problem, you should have taken this key advice. Do so with a new handbuilt replacemtn wheel as well or you are schkrewed! ;)

As far as teh Trek, I'd go for it. I have a Lemond (made by Tek), the frame broke so Trek replaced the frame per their lifteime frame warranty. Do not abuse it, crashing, saw the fork in half, ride without the wheels and you should be fine. If it does crack, Trek will replace it free but you may have to pay a fee of $50 to the shop to transfer the components from the old frame to the new frame.

You will notice a big difference from your present bike vs the Trek. Good tires (stock are usually junk) and you are good to go!:thumb:

naz: where about do you live? I ask because I know a few different Giant dealers who are great. I was 330 when I bought both my giants.... I have a Giant Defy which is solid and also a Giant Roam which is great. If you are anywhere close, your more then welcome to try them out if you would like. Are you looking to stick with a mtn bike versus a road bike?

I'd get the bike you want first. If you start having wheel problems, invest in a stronger set of wheels. But give the stock set a chance. You might be surprised. You weigh a good 100+ pounds less than I did when I started riding again. None of the stock parts on any of my bikes failed under my girth.

Seems pretty similar to my Giant OCR2 (06), materials-wise - and I was your weight when I bought it. Even now, I still love it (though it doesn't keep me from dreaming of a Ti or carbon road bike someday). In my most recent tri I let my little brother use my tri bike and I used that Giant.

You might ask what their specific thoughts are on the weight limit factors - are they thinking about stock wheels? Seatpost have a specified limit? Frame is a non-issue, and I think everyone here has covered wheels pretty well. (My OCR2 only needed a little truing on the rear wheel since I've owned it - still have the stock wheels on it)

None of the stock parts on any of my bikes failed under my girth.

I would keep an eye on the BB crank area though. At 230'ish, I have thrashed a couple of BB's (Isis on stock Bontrager cranks) and a couple of low end BB's on another bike.

Bikes were $1050 and $800 but these models mentioned by the OP are slightly lower on the pole, so I'd keep any eye on these parts. A new BB should be under warranty if it fails early and upgraded at a minimal price if needed.

I've had problems with BB's less than 105 level. I also ended up replacing the crank on my Lemond after 13,000 crank smashing miles (2 years).

I have a 2011 Giant Rapid 3. I bought it a week ago and I have about 160 miles on it already. I weigh 236 pounds and I have very strong legs (I 5/3/1 powerlifting when I'm not riding). I ride mainly in a city with terrible streets and the bike feels solid. I trust my LBS, they know me by name, and they wouldn't just sell me a bike that wouldn't hold up for me because I'm a return customer for life. I honestly think the Giant Rapid 3 would be a fine bike for you. However I am a bit of a newbie here and some people might be more experienced than I am, I'm just speaking as a clyde that owns one of the bikes you're looking at purchasing.

I was 338lbs when I Started riding. I bought a trek but had Mavic wheels with 36 spokes put on it before I even took it home. It never broke I now own a Specialized bike and I am 200lbs and I still had to have a rear wheel built. I don't think its the bike but the wheels. ECB1

One thing the LBS might be concerned about is warranty issues. If the manufacturer has a limit of 250lbs, and something breaks, the manufacturer may not pay the LBS for the repair.

At 360 lbs, the stock back wheel on my Giant Cypress DX lasted 4 years of limited riding. After a couple of 60 mile days on the Bike Across Kansas, the back spokes started breaking two at a time so I got another wheel with more spokes. Two years later, the rear wheel again showing signs of fatigue. I think the real issue is whether to buy nice, heavy duty, wheels that are each worth more than the bike or start over with a new bike. I am not that concerned with whether the frame will support my weight. It will but will the wheels support the load? A hand built wheel properly tensioned may make a world of difference but is it like putting mag wheels on a Kia.

at 6'3 240" I trashed the rear wheel on my rapid 3 in a few months. the rim began to crack at the spoke holes. With that said, the wheel held up fine and was true and never popped a spoke. There isn't a road bike that comes stock with wheels appropriate for someone your size and that is going to be the biggest limiting factor, not the frame. The rapid is a VERY good value in my opinon. i paid $550 for mine when I bought it. you could get upgraded wheels (or at least just upgrade the rear, the front will probably be fine) for a couple hundred more and be good to go. I would recommend a velocity chukker or mavic a719 and put 32 c tires on

Congratulations on dropping almost 80 pounds already!

For the Trek 7.3FX you're only 20 Lbs over. Maybe use that as a further incentive to drop below 300.

From Trek:
http://www.trekbikes.com/faq/questions.php?questionid=104

Rider weight limit of 300lbs:
Hybrid bicycles with 700c wheels, tires larger than 28c, and flat handlebars

City bicycles: hybrids with special equipment, cyclocross bicycles: with drop type handlebars, knobby 700c tires, and cantilever or disc brakes
Mountain bikes of all types including: standard, race, cross-country, heavy-duty, trail, all-mountain, freeride, and jumping bikes of both the hardtail and full suspension variety.

I was 338lbs when I Started riding. I bought a trek but had Mavic wheels with 36 spokes put on it before I even took it home. It never broke I now own a Specialized bike and I am 200lbs and I still had to have a rear wheel built. I don't think its the bike but the wheels. ECB1

For weights such as yours you NEED a strong wheel with 36 SPOKES to keep from breaking spokes or trashing the wheel.

I weight 365 and won't even throw a leg over a bike with weak wheels. It's 36 (11 gage) spokes or nothing for me.

Agreed with the 36 spoke advice. I've broken a spoke on a 36 spoke wheel precisely once on a 16 year old wheel.

Get the bike you like and just plan on getting a good set of wheels for it if/when the stock ones give out. It's the cost of doing business as a clyde :( I kept breaking spokes on the rear wheel of my Specialized Crosstrail Sport (330lbs). Upgraded to custom built Velocity Dyads, 40H rear, 36H front. No problems since.

I weighed about 360 lbs. when I started two years ago. I broke a lot of spokes on my first rear wheel but I learned that it had a lot to do with the quality of materials used and the way it was assembled. If you use a good quality double-walled eyeletted rim with a boxy profile, 36 (not 32) good quality spokes (not heavier gauge spokes) and get a wheel built by hand by someone with a lot of experience, you should be fine. After my local bike shop sold me three different rear wheels over several weeks and I kept breaking spokes, I finally paid about $250 shipped for a rear wheel from Harris Cyclery. That wheel survived over a year of all-weather commuting in New York City and Brooklyn before a taxi took it out.

Not many things are officially tested and rated for people our size. Even the driver seat of your car may not be rated over 250 or 260. There are a lot of reasons for this, but the bottom line is you have to learn to make your own educated guess as to whether something can handle the abuse you're planning to dish out and also take responsibility if you break it.

I feel your pain. I wanted a Trek 7.5FX so bad, like a kid after a toy[well maybe I am a kid]. I am at about 280, local LBS, put two bikes on hold at Trek, a 7.3 and a 7.5 told me why I shouldn't buy the 7.5 and why I should buy the 7.3. Told me to think about it for a week. I came home, and thought about it for one week. I went with the 7.3. I will get below 250 and have me a 7.5 or better in a couple of years. With all said I am glad the local LBS was honest with me, just bought the wife a 7.2 from there. I know this shop will build thier bikes right. I love riding the 7.3 I am up to 21 mile rides and I could never get past 15 with my 7300.
BillMc

I feel your pain. I wanted a Trek 7.5FX so bad, like a kid after a toy[well maybe I am a kid]. I am at about 280, local LBS, put two bikes on hold at Trek, a 7.3 and a 7.5 told me why I shouldn't buy the 7.5 and why I should buy the 7.3. Told me to think about it for a week. I came home, and thought about it for one week. I went with the 7.3. I will get below 250 and have me a 7.5 or better in a couple of years. With all said I am glad the local LBS was honest with me, just bought the wife a 7.2 from there. I know this shop will build thier bikes right. I love riding the 7.3 I am up to 21 mile rides and I could never get past 15 with my 7300.
BillMc

Can't let marketing get in the way of buying what you need. the reality is that the 7.5 isn't any better or worse of a bike for you than the 7.3 it's just Different. You will be faster on the 7.3 because it's not going to break down on you. Honestly there is no reason why you can't ride a 7.5, your weight isn't going to damage the carbon fork, the only issue is the 24 spoke bontrager wheelset which isn't a very nice wheelset. Do yourself a favor, and don't bother upgrading the bike, get yourself an aftermarket wheelset, because that is the biggest difference between the two bikes

OP, check out this bike from nashbar http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_511753_-1_202650_10000_202398#ReviewHeader flat bar like the rapid but carbon fork instead of steel and it's $150 left. The wheels also won't be stout enough but pair it up with these wheels http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_506872_-1_202642_10000_202478 and you will be good to go. if you don't want to do the mail order thing, go ahead and buy the rapid 3 from the lbs and then buy those wheels I show you above. Take the stock wheels and put them on your local Craigslist for $150 and take $100 for them if someone offers and you are good to go.

SPECIALIZED bikes are strong and many rated for around 300 lbs... I weighted almost 300 and my mountain bike was great, and I didn't brake anything on it, and I was abusing it... hybrid on other hand ( crosstrail ) the only issue was breaking spokes... problem was fixed after replacing it with double walled rims with 36 spokes. My weight + all accessories and drinks and food were well over 320. I wouldn't try any road bike with my weight...they seems to be made just for " skinny butts ". Hybrid is your best choice, and you can put skinner tires on it.
For anyone weighting around 300 lbs, I can recommend cheap but very solid wheels with shimano hub. WTB freedom rider , rear for about $50 and front little cheaper. Ask your local LBS.

Don't fixate on a 36 spoke count - it isn't like a quality 32 spoke wheel would be a problem. Focus on the quality of the build (and builder, if you go that route), rather than strictly going off of spoke count like there is a single magic number.

The Giant OCR I mentioned above? 24/28 spoke count. Fine for 4-5 years so far, a few thousand miles total (not much this year, but that is another story).


Sayre, what was that first bike? And do you recall any details about your wheels?

At 325 lbs built up a Surly cross check with open pros with 32h and they worked great for me. Now 250 and on campy zondas.

Keep riding. If you want the road or cx bike it can work.

Thanks for all of the replies. I am not sure what I am gonna do right now. The main problem is cash flow at the moment. If I buy a new bike there will not be any money anytime soon to buy some upgraded wheels.

I am thinking I should look in to an upgraded 26" real wheel for my current comfort bike, lose another 30, and then maybe revisit the idea. OR The stock Alex z1000 entry level real wheel did last me 2 years @ almost 400lbs and lower before the spokes started failing. I saw an ebay retailer selling them for $29.

Do yourself a favor and go buy the Fx 7.3 as you originally planned - its a great bike and will do you fine in stock status. Im 285 and I rode 40 miles this weekend on my 7.3 disc. Its a solid bike and Trek stands behind their product.

Its so easy to get bogged down in the minutia of spoke count, rim type etc and simply finish up not riding - its not rocket science so dont make it so. The Trek will do you fine.

Your not far off my weight - just dont do any "bunny-hops" and ride sensibly...:thumb:

P.S. Before you drop $600 at the LBS...check craigslist. I got my Trek Fx 7.3 Disc (fully loaded) for $350' ish. The bike was as new and with less than 100 miles on it:

http://i56.tinypic.com/1hlee.jpg

Do yourself a favor and go buy the Fx 7.3 - its a great bike and will do you fine in stock status. Im 285 and I rode 40 miles this weekend on my 7.3 disc. Its a solid bike and Trek stands behind their product.

Its so easy to get bogged down in the minutia of spoke count, rim type etc and simply finish up not riding - its not rocket science so dont make it so. The Trek will do you fine.

Your not far off my weight - just dont do any "bunny-hops" and ride sensibly...:thumb:

This :D

If you don't have money for a wheel how will you buy , and care for, a new bike?

So, shop used to have money for both..........

It's too bad that you're using a 26" wheel now as that won't be transferable if you get a new one built for your current bike.

do yourself a favor, start saving up and in the meantime, just replace the rear wheel but be advised, that same wheel as your existing one that you see for cheap will need to be checked out by a shop first. trust me, it's probably just a machine built wheels, spend an extra 20 bucks to have them check the tension if need be.

Do yourself a favor and go buy the Fx 7.3 as you originally planned - its a great bike and will do you fine in stock status. Im 285 and I rode 40 miles this weekend on my 7.3 disc. Its a solid bike and Trek stands behind their product.

Its so easy to get bogged down in the minutia of spoke count, rim type etc and simply finish up not riding - its not rocket science so dont make it so. The Trek will do you fine.

Your not far off my weight - just dont do any "bunny-hops" and ride sensibly...:thumb:

P.S. Before you drop $600 at the LBS...check craigslist. I got my Trek Fx 7.3 Disc (fully loaded) for $350' ish. The bike was as new and with less than 100 miles on it:


Brilliant </British Accent>

One thing the LBS might be concerned about is warranty issues. If the manufacturer has a limit of 250lbs, and something breaks, the manufacturer may not pay the LBS for the repair.

Also liability issues. If the shop sold the bike and it failed due to someone's weight, they could be held liable. At least the shop spoke up - they risked losing a sale - I say that makes them credible with integrity. I know plenty of shops that send poor slobs out on the wrong bike - ill fitting, not sturdy, whatever and just count the money hoping all is well.

Think about the shop's point of view...

That said I like to moutnain bike. I ride a Santa Cruz Superlight of all things. It's a great bike but there is definitely a weight limit and I am over it. I've had the bike awhile with no problems but I know not to do anything extreme or foolish... I may not take some drop-offs like my lighter friends - I don't want to risk breaking the bike apart. Just know size does make a different and we need to ride cautiously.

Thanks for all of the replies. I am not sure what I am gonna do right now. The main problem is cash flow at the moment. If I buy a new bike there will not be any money anytime soon to buy some upgraded wheels.

I am thinking I should look in to an upgraded 26" real wheel for my current comfort bike, lose another 30, and then maybe revisit the idea. OR The stock Alex z1000 entry level real wheel did last me 2 years @ almost 400lbs and lower before the spokes started failing. I saw an ebay retailer selling them for $29.

2010 Alex Z1000 - only problems. Very flexible, poorly built and broken spokes every 5-20 miles at 290 lbs....

there is no such ****ing thing as a weight limit on a bike. it's total horse****. do you have any idea the amount of force exerted on a frame when someone takes it off a jump? fix your wheel and get back to riding or buy a new bike and ride. just get out and get moving

Id go with a Trek because I believe that Trek is about the only MANF that doesn't have weight limits and a lifetime warranty - not 100% possitive. That may be why the LBS is steering you away from the giant - maybe it does have a manf listed weight limit. I've found the Trek bontrager wheels to be pretty strong. They are not the lightest, but I'm a 220lb hard rider on a Madone 4.7 and only had a wheel go out of true from a large pot hole. Thats not the wheels fault! On my mountain bike I built up velocity deep v and I think 14g spokes (whatever the most heavy duty there was at the time) and the wheels never once went out of true. Those wheels were heavy even with xtr hubs, but when you're a heavy rider, the weight of the bike and wheels is pretty much a non-issue.

there is no such ****ing thing as a weight limit on a bike. it's total horse****. do you have any idea the amount of force exerted on a frame when someone takes it off a jump? fix your wheel and get back to riding or buy a new bike and ride. just get out and get moving

That's not entirely true. I was watching a show on Discovery awhile back where Specialized was stress testing their carbon full suspension frames, I forget which one, and they showed how they test them until they snap. It took somewhere around 2600lbs to snap the front off. So it is possible :D

BTW: Trek states in their owner manuals that the weight limit on their bikes is 300lbs. That's not because the frame can't handle 300lbs, it's the wheels that might run into trouble. Basically it's their out for not warranting the wheels.

OP: Save your money up and buy the bike you really want. Just accept that you might break some spokes along the way. It's part of the sport and you pay to play. If you can accept that, buy the bike that makes you smile, your body weight be damned. BTW, even fancy schmancy hand built wheels can fail too. Don't think you HAVE to have the best of the best to get out and do some riding.

there is no such ****ing thing as a weight limit on a bike. it's total horse****. do you have any idea the amount of force exerted on a frame when someone takes it off a jump? fix your wheel and get back to riding or buy a new bike and ride. just get out and get moving
You are wrong. Wheels and frames are braking all the time, and hybrid and road bikes are not for jumping. Companies are setting limits for the frames, but wheels are the first to go. Some people here cares about their safety....

You are wrong. Wheels and frames are braking all the time, and hybrid and road bikes are not for jumping. Companies are setting limits for the frames, but wheels are the first to go. Some people here cares about their safety....

+1......:thumb:

My 2c - go with another LBS.

Last year, at 318lbs my LBS assured me an all-carbon Roubaix would hold me fine - and it has. Thats after 3k miles and not a single spoke broken...first bike Ive actually worn tires out on :)

P.S. I also ride a Trek Fx 7.3 -Im currently 285lbs.

..... Specialized has a 250 lb. rider weight limit on ALL of their carbon frames. Sounds like the LBS wanted to sell a bike.

Your not far off my weight - just dont do any "bunny-hops" and ride sensibly...:thumb:

... and hybrid and road bikes are not for jumping ...

Bunny-hopping is an essential skill for people on road bikes. Don't fear them. Even a decently executed hop is going to be less stressful on your wheel(s) than the pothole you just avoided.


Id go with a Trek because I believe that Trek is about the only MANF that doesn't have weight limits and a lifetime warranty - not 100% possitive.

Cervelo bikes have no weight limits, and carry lifetime warranties. It's unheard of for somebody to send in a warranty claim on one and not have the frame replaced - what to do about a problem is at the manufacturer's discretion, and é definitely stands by their bikes.

+1 on a stronger wheel set. I bought a Lemond Poprad cyclocross bike for riding on pavement, rail trails, and the gravel roads around here and began breaking spokes after about a year. I bought a set of wheels from Colorado Cyclist built on Ultegra hubs with 36-3X Mavic CXP-33 rims. End of wheel problems, I've never even had to true them. The only complaint I have is the necessity of finding long stemmed tubes for my 35mm tires but that's a small complaint compared to a collapsed wheel.

Google Presta and/or Schrader Stem extensions.

Trek has lifetime backing on their frames from breaking damage, JRA not crashing.
everything else is replaceable

a 520 touring frame can be set up pretty racy, still let you run strong wheels ,
and 35 tires.

Presta tubes are coming with longer stems , now, ala 60mm.

Can you not run a set of 32's for a while on the rapid and work your way down to a smaller series tire? I just bought an escape 2 and love it thus far, though I do understand you wanting a bit "faster" of a bike. Ride both, at whichever bike shop will allow it, and give your money to who wants it most.

..... Specialized has a 250 lb. rider weight limit on ALL of their carbon frames. Sounds like the LBS wanted to sell a bike.

Maybe so. However, as I stated, the bike has held up fine for me after 3000 miles in 18 months. Good enough for me... ;)