Bicycle Mechanics - Home made full chain guard?

I'm in the process of converting a bike to SS, but also as a bad weather commuter.. coaster brake, looking into full fender/mudguard kit, and I was thinking I wan the chain to be semi protected from the water too.. I recalled those old full cage chain guards they used on the old 3 speeds/dynamo hub wheels etc.. and I want something similar though not such big heavy steel.. can I just use sheet metal, maybe fiber glass? Anyone got ideas etc? Maybe a cheap modern day vendor?

Hebie Chainglider, German , made to fit 38 and 42 T chainrings, and Nexus or Rohloff hubs.
it's a mix and match of 4 parts..

Lots of BMX bikes ship with a plastic chainguard, not installed, as kids hate them.
see if one of those is in a bin at your LBS, that may do adequately..

... I found this...ummmm http://www.amazon.com/BioLogic-Freedrive-Chain-Cover/dp/B005I68HNS/ref=sr_1_1?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1315511402&sr=1-1 I'm not sure if I like it or it scares me.

One problem with covers like the Hebie Chainglider is that they really only fit a chainwheel and cog of one specific size. Your bike has to adapt to the chain case, not the other way around.

Some Dutch bicyles have chainguards made from a metal structure with a leatherette cover, IIRC.

If you are handy with sheet metal fabrication, you could customize one from thin gauge aluminum sheet and hose clamps.

If you are handy with sheet metal fabrication, you could customize one from thin gauge aluminum sheet and hose clamps.

that's orginally what I was thinking.. and am leaning back towards since I can't find out anything about that weird chain cover.

... I found this...ummmm http://www.amazon.com/BioLogic-Freedrive-Chain-Cover/dp/B005I68HNS/ref=sr_1_1?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1315511402&sr=1-1 I'm not sure if I like it or it scares me.I've seen something like that (more precisely, looks like exactly that) that on a commuter folding bike (http://cycling.frenzied.us/2010-03-13-Bike_Hugger_Social/tn/img_7624.jpg.html). Looked pretty nice. Really nice, actually.

Though of course the downside is that it won't work on a bike with derailleurs -- only single speeds or hub hear bikes. And I'm not sure how it adapts to changing chain lengths. (OK, looking at the picture, I see how it does -- there's just a small gap.)

I've seen something like that (more precisely, looks like exactly that) that on a commuter folding bike (http://cycling.frenzied.us/2010-03-13-Bike_Hugger_Social/tn/img_7624.jpg.html). Looked pretty nice. Really nice, actually.

Though of course the downside is that it won't work on a bike with derailleurs -- only single speeds or hub hear bikes. And I'm not sure how it adapts to changing chain lengths. (OK, looking at the picture, I see how it does -- there's just a small gap.) and now you've leaned me back to the odd thing.. still have plenty of time need to order a crankset first.

That's split wire loom on that bicycle chain,available at most auto parts stores....LOL! What an idea....

You may have to make a guard if you have a chainring bigger than about 44 or so.

Guess you can make the shape you want out of wood, cut out a piece of sheetmetal
an bang on it with a hammer over the wooden form, till its the shape you need.

Guess you can make the shape you want out of wood, cut out a piece of sheetmetal
an bang on it with a hammer over the wooden form, till its the shape you need.

Thanks but I think I'd rather cut it and bend it.. ;) not too hard and my buddy has a light machine shop.. so I'll just have to trade some tech time for some shop time. But I'm still leaning towards the chain cover!

... I found this...ummmm http://www.amazon.com/BioLogic-Freedrive-Chain-Cover/dp/B005I68HNS/ref=sr_1_1?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1315511402&sr=1-1 I'm not sure if I like it or it scares me.

This thing doesn't look very useful to me. Only about 2/3 of the chain is actually covered, since it still has to engage the gears. I feel like water and debris would just collect in there and it would be worse than having nothing at all.

I say, if you want a full chainguard go all the way. Maybe even seal it if you can and include an oil bath if you can. Then your chain will last forever!

This thing doesn't look very useful to me. Only about 2/3 of the chain is actually covered, since it still has to engage the gears. I feel like water and debris would just collect in there and it would be worse than having nothing at all.

I say, if you want a full chainguard go all the way. Maybe even seal it if you can and include an oil bath if you can. Then your chain will last forever!
The only really exposed area seems to be where the teeth engage.. there is a small gap between the ends of the covering though and I'd assume any debris that fit in there would flush out with any water as well.. but we shall see.

Some of the Dutch and German 3x8 roadsters use a clear plastic chaincase. They use a big bulge/cutout over the mechs.
If metal bashing over wood doesnt work for you, you could try laying fibreglass over a poloystyrene mould.

I have looked high and low for aftermarket chaincases but apart from a few fancy metal hocky-stick style, there is nothing.

The only bike to run a real oil bath chaincase was an old Sunbeam (http://www.localhistory.scit.wlv.ac.uk/Museum/Transport/bicycles/Sunbeam.htm) bike.

Spare chain guards, either open (http://hollandbikeshop.com/kettingkast-open_cid1221.html?cPath=506_952_1221&language=en) or closed (http://hollandbikeshop.com/kettingkast-gesloten_cid1220.html?cPath=506_952_1220&language=en), can be bought at Dutch bike shops. A problem with the closed ones will be that most are made for the everyday Dutch bicycle (http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2009/01/anatomy-of-reliable-everyday-bicycle.html), that have all more or less the same relaxed wheelbase.

Thanks but I think I'd rather cut it and bend it..

that's the process, cut it and bend it, that bending is where the hammer comes in.

you hit the metal hanging over the edge and it bends a little with every stroke .

If you use brass sheet, by repeatedly annealing it after a course of bending blows
another course of blows can move the metal nicely and, you can form it smooth and even
smooth surface, on the work is gained by having the hammer face polished.
[almost plastic moving like pottery, but slower process]

you cannot work steel the same way , cold, it has to be hot... blacksmithing.


my buddy has a light machine shop..
So didn't need the list peeps opinions anyhow..

You could make a wood form and buy your favorite color plexiglas and put it in the oven.

that's the process, cut it and bend it, that bending is where the hammer comes in.

you hit the metal hanging over the edge and it bends a little with every stroke .

If you use brass sheet, by repeatedly annealing it after a course of bending blows
another course of blows can move the metal nicely and, you can form it smooth and even
smooth surface, on the work is gained by having the hammer face polished.
[almost plastic moving like pottery, but slower process]

you cannot work steel the same way , cold, it has to be hot... blacksmithing.


So didn't need the list peeps opinions anyhow..

I prefer your guys opinions to his... he'd probably just go, DO IT THIS WAY NOW! Whereas you guys are giving me real options and letting me think.
Edit: Also I'm looking into fusing plastic bags to make a fender set as well.

I've heard that full chain cases make it so difficult to remove the rear wheel that a dutch rider would never even consider changing a flat on the road, but rather always takes it to a nearby bike shop. Since bike shops aren't prevalent enough to do this in America, if I were looking to protect the chain then I'd try the split cable tube (ie chainrunner), possibly filled with very thick grease to try to keep too much debris from getting through the crack.

However, if you're just looking to protect your clothing/skin from dirty chain then I've found that the best way is to cook a new chain in a bath of melted wax before you ride it; To ensure that plenty of wax gets stuck in the interstices of the chain (to provide a lifetime supply of ground wax powder lubricant) try to wait until the wax cools enough to begin coagulating before you remove the chain from the bath. In my experience, for a SS/IGH bike, you only need to do this once for the entire life of the chain (which should be way longer than even a well oiled derailleur chain). Much better than a noisy heavy guard and it still works if the chain isn't new/unridden when you give it the bath (the result just isn't quite as clean).

I run the SKS Chainboard:
http://www.sks-germany.com/?l=en&a=product&r=chainguards&i=2290400400&CHAINBOARD%20158mm

I run the SKS Chainboard:
http://www.sks-germany.com/?l=en&a=product&r=chainguards&i=2290400400&CHAINBOARD%20158mm

Hey, that's nice.

For a few months recently, I was riding an old English 3-speed as a daily commuting and errand bike. In the winter, of course, I'd wear long trousers. I noticed I could just jump on the bike without tying up my trousers. Hey, wow, I get it! Eureka!